Jump to content

SiC's Silver Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector - Gone!


SiC

Recommended Posts

I have the mechanical knowledge of a gnat & I suggest either of the valvey varnish ones - buggering about with viscosity seems like recipe for disaster.

Besides, the snake oil that I once used to 'cure' rattling hydraulic valves which one might expect to be a thickening agent was thinner than thinners.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking like Lucas is just winning so far...

 

Ordered a new op-com to replace the one I can't find. With it I'm hoping that I can reset the adaptations. Unlikely to do bugger all difference, but worth a shot. I am assuming that it actually has an option to do so...

 

I do feel a bit sad bridging this, but when there are loads of lovely looking 9-5's, available cheap, like these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAAB-9-5-2-3-SE-Turbo-Silver-Estate-VGC-New-MOT-ready-to-go-/131966247476

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-SAAB-9-5-AERO-2-3-TURBO-AUTO-ESTATE-Full-History-superb-drive-very-clean/222278498036

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-Saab-9-5-2-3-HOT-Aero-5dr-/282213237688

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-Saab-9-5-2-0-T-Vector-BELOW-AVERAGE-MILES-AUTO-/252564191644

 

... it makes no sense to spend money to fix this one. I don't mind spending money to fix cars, but it would be nice if it gave me some service first to deserve my hard earned pennies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's arrived.

post-20071-0-67439700-1476360705_thumb.jpg

 

It recommends putting half the bottle in if it's a compact or sub-compact cars. Which given its from America, a 9-5 probably fits that category!

 

I really need to drive it in heavy stop+start traffic and see how bad it is now after the fluid changes. I'm still tempted to run it as a WBoD, I mean WPCGW? Ok the thumps are uncomfortable, but I could just ignore them if it still moves forward. That'd also mean it'd need a new MOT. But I can't figure if it's a silly/insane thing to be doing...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if I would trust a £25 special to not find something. My local trusted MOT place is only 20quid more.

 

Not sure what would need doing. Underneath it looks pretty good nick. Exhaust is rusted but it's double skinned and the inner (now outer) skin looks pretty good. Not looked at the shocks, but they're likely well worn.

 

Just about to go out and give it a run to get it up to temp, check the oil level (I did it wrong before... Apparently need to remove the o-ring off the dipstick) and if necessary extract some oil. Then dump some snake oil in and see what happens! Fingers crossed it's not going to become a driveway ornament...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if I would trust a £25 special to not find something. My local trusted MOT place is only 20quid more.

The last couple of MoTs on the 406 have been ~£22 at the local Mr Clutch near my office and the whole thing went OK. No funnies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found a recommended place near me that do £25 ones. Sending the Meriva in first which I know has nothing wrong with it bar maybe an advisory for one tyre and the battery being cable tied to the tray. Using that to test the water and get pally with them before I send them the Xantia...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took out 500ml, as the dipstick was reading on max. Then put half the bottle of that Lucas stuff in.

 

Went for a spin down to the local petrol station (she don't half like a drink!), and to be honest I can't feel much difference. If anything it may be worse and clonking more! The fluid that I extracted before also came out brown which isn't good, especially as it was coming out nice and red from the cooler port. However it could be some of the old fluid from the oil cooler that wasn't flushed out mixing with the new stuff.

 

Ran out of time tonight, but I've put in the rest of the snake oil into the box. I'll go for a better run tomorrow. I would like to get it in some heavy traffic and see what its like then. If I'm running around 20+ mph traffic it's fine. The only time it's really bad is when I've got home and sitting on the drive shifting through the gears. At this point it'll be heat soaking a bit, so at its maximum temp.

 

The worst when it's in its dodgy state is the 3rd to 2nd shift manually on the drive. Doesn't do it everytime, but when it shifts badly, it goes with a big thud. The engine then labour's heavily, struggling with the load. Also the box is making some rather strange noises...

 

If you then manually shift back to 3rd or 1st and then back to 2nd, it's fine again most of the time.

 

Not quite sure why it's doing that. Sticky valves maybe?

 

I reckon it may respond alright to another full flush, as the ATF is dirty again. However that'll be another £50 of oil and it already smells fresh now too.

 

I'll give it a better run tomorrow now I've put another 10l of fuel in and see what its like then. Especially as it's had all the rest of the snake oil in.

 

I must not forget to double check the level again as the extra stuff may have put the fluid level over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...