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richardthestag

U can haz cheep Jags - 4 sayle p3

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14. o/s door sometimes will not open from the inside, like the child lock is activated, it isn't. Opens fine from the outside. going to get door card off and lube the fuck out of the mechanism

 

On my XJ40 I found one day that the OSR door wouldn't open from the OUTSIDE, only the INSIDE.

In what was not one of my finer moments, this translated to my brain "maybe the child lock is on!", so I flicked the child lock switch, and slammed the door. The moment it shut I thought "oh shit" and realised I was thick.

 

So then the door wouldn't open at all :) After having someone flick the central locking switch about a hundred times I managed to grab the little lock peg with some pliers and yank it up, so I could then open from the outside and take the child lock off.

 

I am surprisingly dim sometimes.

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On my XJ40 I found one day that the OSR door wouldn't open from the OUTSIDE, only the INSIDE.

In what was not one of my finer moments, this translated to my brain "maybe the child lock is on!", so I flicked the child lock switch, and slammed the door. The moment it shut I thought "oh shit" and realised I was thick.

 

So then the door wouldn't open at all :) After having someone flick the central locking switch about a hundred times I managed to grab the little lock peg with some pliers and yank it up, so I could then open from the outside and take the child lock off.

 

I am surprisingly dim sometimes.

 

Fatha thastag did exactly the same thing when the n/s/r door would only open from the inside.

 

Rattling both inside and outide handles at the same time as I put some shoulder into the door popped it open :D

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update time for the jag, ran well for a couple of months then packed up on 1 August, was going to sshmoke it down to Padstow to see mutha thestags resting place, Well it would be rude not too, with it being her birthday and all that.

 

Hasnt been used since, sorned in the back of the barn.

 

It has had a gearbox issue for a while now which I am fairly certain is a microswitch or the selector cable, normally starting it up and running the selector round the j gate twice sees it good. 

 

Anyway so Fatha thestag did that, then low coolant warning light came on, funny that! never used coolant before + I had used it the evening before for an 80mile round trip to pick up Mrs and little* thestags from Tiverton parkway.

 

* they aint little any more

 

The expansion bottle was very low, hmmm filled it up and ran the car up and down the lane and the MIL light popped on, arse. 

 

Dumped it in the barn and took the Yeti instead, Mutha thestag would NOT have approved of the frivolity of the Jaaaag. Maybe her spirit knackered it.

 

Anyway roll on to Sept when I was next in Devon, Battery flat as a witches tit.

 

Charged it up but it was losing charge almost as fast as I was charging it. Halfrauds did a drop test on it and it lost another 2v while they did that. Utterly fucked. As luck would have it they had another on the counter, exactly the same £130 to you my son. big fucker it is.

 

Hooked it all up, started it and the MIL popped straight up along with messages about gearbox, traction control and ABS.

 

Plugged in the ODB reader, the port is a cunt to find, interweb gives about 15 different locations. eventually found drivers foot well up against the centre console tucked up behind the facia.

 

There was a ton of codes, I find the best thing to do is make a note of the numbers, clear them and then retest, the new ones will be the problem. Cross checked  these against the ROM to get a better idea of the fault

 

P1637 CAN Link ECM/ABS Control Module Circuit/Network
 
P1638 CAN Link ECM/INSTM Circuit/Network
 
P1642 CAN Link Circuit
 
P1643 CAN Link Engine Control Module/Transmission Control Module Circuit/Network
 
P1646 Linear O2 Sensor Control Chip (Bank1) Bank one is on the right hand side of the engine bay if you're sitting in the car.
 
And a message scrolling on the screen which read "Trac not available, asc not available, failsafe engine mode, gearbox fault"
 
Oh Joy
 
Popped it into reverse and it went backwards, popped into drive and it went forwards, then put it into Park and the tacho went to Zero, but the engine was still running. 
 
Check ODB again and a new error had popped up. Still no Tacho though
 
P0706 transmission range sensor a circuit range performance
 
Wierdly when I tried to get it back out of park to move it the gearstick seemed to think that the engine wasnt running, goes ping ping ping. restarted the engine and the gearstick moved fine. 

 

Dumped it back in the barn as I had Range Rover Axles to strip.

 

Looked up all the codes and in isolation it would look like Lambda sensor drivers side, ABS module (know issue with soldered connections) and gearbox sensors. Somewhat bewildered I continued searching but this time for instances of multiple codes.

 

Another X308 owner had exactly the same issue - right down to the expansion bottle being mysteriously empty.

 

Also every single error code I have is linked to the CAN circuit, in really bad cases failure of this circuit can prevent access to codes

 

Item #3 that the pen is pointing too is the coolant level sensor. It would appear to be a friction fit into the bottom of the expansion tank

 

post-3439-0-25867200-1509394031_thumb.jpg

 

Here is another unit from evilbay, I am 200 miles from the Jaaaag and Fatha Thestag is in Spain. The smoll hole near the bottom is where the sensor goes.

post-3439-0-33431700-1509394125_thumb.jpg

 

They have a certain notoriety for popping out and showering the loom and connectors that are situated right below.

 

So the fix is,

Ignition on, disconnect battery and strap the two terminals together (Jaaaag hard reset)

Pull the expansion bottle and investigate, hope I dont need another - 2nd hand is a futile gesture and Jaag want hundreds

Pull all the loom connectors, clean, hair dryer, lube with lecky cleaner and reassemble

reconnect battery and watch those codes go away

 

For the gearbox I have found where the two sensors are, how to adjust the cable and if need be how to strip and rebuild the expensive rotary switch on the side of the gearbox

 

Will be back in 2 weeks filled with enthusiasm and knowledge to fix the broken jaaag.

 

Then I need to look at the bodywork. Huge giffer Fatha scrapes on both front corners of the bumper, rust on o/s/f arch and trailing edge of wing, might just get a better wing. and o/s/r arch leading section by the rear door opening.

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Why manufacturers put water vessels or where water travels right near important connectors and electronic control units, I'll never know. It's a major reason why modern electronics in cars gets such a bad rap. That and stuff labeled Bosch.

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had a look at the Jaaag today, first opportunity in ages.

 

Not entirely a success

 

First job was to clean up all the contacts and do a hard reset on the ECU.

 

Battery is fucking flat again!, not really surprising as it has sat doing fuck all for over a month. should have disconnected the battery really.

 

never mind we will give it a charge while I work.

 

Battery charger is fucked.

 

Pixies at work again I think, Fatha Thestag nipped off out with the broken charger to exchange it for another as it has a 2 years warranty.

 

Turns out that he bought it 30 months ago and has only used it twice.

 

"we still sell that brand, would you like to buy another?" asked the assistant

 

Err no thanks

 

Meanwhile I stayed and started stripping down shit

 

engine bay covers are held in place by 2 cross head screws

post-3439-0-82441900-1511630125_thumb.jpg

 

Quick inspection of the header tank found it

a. full of coolant, 

b. no sign of any leak underneath

c. although the level sensor is a push fit, it does not goes directly into the coolant, must be some kind of hall effect

post-3439-0-38842200-1511630126_thumb.jpg

 

Loads of connectors, everything is under here, they were all different types, all difficult to pull apart but I did so, cleaned, and dried using a paint strip heat gun

post-3439-0-82568300-1511630126_thumb.jpg

 

this cable connects two fuseboxes together and is a known trouble point. both terminals were furred up. this is after cleaning.

 

I also pulled and check each fuse and relay

post-3439-0-35190400-1511630127_thumb.jpg

 

This is it all back together, I noticed some staining to the centre cover around the header tank neck, smells like antifreeze, maybe the cap is leaking rather than anything else. Anyway, reconnected the battery which has enjoyed just over an hour of high trickle charge. was enough to fire it up. No pics but

 

EML was on but tacho was working, plugged in ODB reader and cleaned down the code, the eml went off. switch off and restarted. no errors or anything. coolio

post-3439-0-85870600-1511630127_thumb.jpg

 

Reversed out of the barn and all was well, then tacho went dead and the dash lit up

post-3439-0-53772700-1511630128_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-38552300-1511630129_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-91586900-1511630129_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-49709100-1511630130_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-93402500-1511630130_thumb.jpg

 

the error codes and faulty tacho are all again pointing to the can network

 

also now the car is stuck in Park, clearing codes with ignition on and starting allows me to get it into drive to move it into the barn but then the whole thing packed up, engine still running, no drive, Christmas tree lights on the dash and gearbox stuck in Park.

 

fuck it

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Guest Hooli

I've seen plenty of stories of them coming up with those faults just because of a weak battery even when still starting ok. I'd leave it on trickle all night.

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Checked voltage at battery with engine running 16.13v

Checked voltage at battery disconnected (engine off first of course) 12.13v

 

Here is a vid if you are interested

 


 

NEXT STEPS

  1. Charge the battery up fully, i.e. I believe that it needs to be 12.5v disconnected from the car.
  2. Check the ground points, loads of them, 
  3. Double check alternator output at the Battery - is 14.13v good or not? It would be outstanding on my 25year old Range Rover but that doesn't have complex electronics to feed
  4. Then follow CAN Failure – Service Action S484 and check the back of the dash module
There was a recall for this age of Jaaaaag where the solder on one of the ground points on the PCB on the back of the instrument panel causes chaos. quick and easy check 

 

Else I am limited to voltage which bearing in mind the suddenness and diversity of issues all kind of link back to the CAN network

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fixed

 

charged the battery up good n proper

 

after settling but disconnected 12.7v

battery connected and running at idle 14.2v

while running and disconnect earth lead, measure voltage between +ive and earth lead 14.4v

 

Alternator is working fine.

 

Cleared all the codes down and the car is behaving.

 

just one code remains 

P1646 Linear O2 Sensor Control Chip (Bank1) 

 

I think that is the Lambda sensor on the driver side of the engine, if so is easy to get to.

 

Lack of Mot, VED and insurance prevented a victory test drive

 

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disconnect earth lead, measure voltage between +ive and earth lead 14.4v

 

Oo, don't do that regulator packs on alternators can get damaged if they have no load attached. The sensitive electronics don't like it especially it either.

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Oo, don't do that regulator packs on alternators can get damaged if they have no load attached. The sensitive electronics don't like it especially it either.

 

Jaaaag bulletins suggests it, only for a few seconds and only while cold and there is no load other than the engine running

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Guest Hooli

Surely if the meter is in place before you start the car and you stop the car before removal then the electronics don't know?

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Surely if the meter is in place before you start the car and you stop the car before removal then the electronics don't know?

 

nope and nor do I.

 

I have tested alternators in the old days when without a multimeter by disconnecting the battery briefly to see if the car stalls.

 

Funny thing is that despite this 

 

post-3439-0-33245100-1511905070_thumb.jpg

 

Jaguar manual has warnings about not jump starting or boost starting and only starting from a known good and suitable 12.5-12.7v supply

 

I guess so long as there is no load then the Denso L3B Alternator can deal without the battery for a short period of time to complete the test. I read that it boosts the load for 90 seconds after starting so as to replen the battery. Cant say I noticed that but then I dont move as quickly as I used to getting from the drivers seat to the boot :D

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Jaaaag can haz MoT

 

root cause of issues was dead battery, jaaaag cannot operate on a battery that has less than 12.5v at rest. it showers the ecu and eml with ghost errors.

 

Bought a battery from Halfords as mentioned above but errors persisted. It needed a trickle to get it to 12.7v, not having access to a charger that wasnt shit delayed things a little.

 

after test drive last week the eml popped up again. p1646 drivers side upper lambda and p1000 which means that it hasnt done 3 restarts without seeing an error code.

 

i was 200 miles away so fatha now confident that it wasnt going to launch into limp mode and die on him motored it down to the local test station for a pre arranged of course.

 

brief check using a realtime odb meter found the upper drivers side lambda off the scale. new sensor fitted and pass was issued.

 

car goes like stink again, gearbox chitters slightly on gear change, zorst emits pleasing woofle.

 

I think fatha thestag went through half a tank of fuel yesterday to celebrate.

 

Verdict, fatha thestag nearly lost all hope at the original list of errors, he was thinking about spares or reapers or chopping it in to a breaker. if it hadnt gone into limp mode I suspect he might have achieved that objective. with help from experts on jaguarforums and advise here it was fixed for the exorbitant cost of £130 for the battery and £90 for the oxygen sensor. oh and a little thinking outside the box, I try to keep away from CAN electronics normally but am getting used to some of the anomolies

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Fatha thestag finds he is not using this so up for sale

 

in a nutshell

 

£1300

 

north Devon

 

Tiverton parkway on great western rail network is 25 miles away so easy, ish to pick up

 

4.0 V8 Sovereign

MOT till Dec 2018

Engine has metal top tensioners.

gerabox has had new fluid  after 3 flush throughs

4 x new continental tyres

1 x new battery

 

any interest ?

 

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Guest Hooli

Damn that looks nice & I've got PPI claims in the process currently....

If it's still here when the cheques turn up I'm going to find it impossible to resist.

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Fatha thestag finds he is not using this so up for sale

 

in a nutshell

 

£1300

 

north Devon

 

Tiverton parkway on great western rail network is 25 miles away so easy, ish to pick up

 

4.0 V8 Sovereign

MOT till Dec 2018

Engine has metal top tensioners.

gerabox has had new fluid after 3 flush throughs

4 x new continental tyres

1 x new battery

 

any interest ?

 

https://youtu.be/8Nc46Yi40nc

 

 

Best review ever.

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Have massive want but also many excuses. Moar picz?

 

what pics do you need? check out the mildly drunken ramblings in the youtoob video also

 

other things that I forgot to mention

 

one key! Jag dealer can sort another but nearest to here is in Exeter.

Radio code can be provided by Jaguar but they need to see the car and V5 before releasing it

have two alarm fobs. Also have a pattern key that opens the door and boot but dont start the car because it doesnt have the chip

 

CD autochanger in the boot wasnt working, found a lump of cd wedging the cartridge which I removed. The supply wire is dead though, possibly disconnected at the back of the radio head unit.

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