mk2_craig 1792 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Great news! Is it getting less damp in there? Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 31 minutes ago, mk2_craig said: Great news! Is it getting less damp in there? Cheers aye much less damp and a much more pleasant place to be! Now it has an MOT I may get a new sunroof seal. Though I think I'll check how best to fit it before I order it. If the sunroof panel needs to come off that will be scary times.. Link to post Share on other sites
jaypee 241 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Nice work dude! 320touring 1 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 Driving the good lady back from her chiropractor appointment... Last decent hill before home. Stutter stutter. Conk. Fuck. Rolled into this bay. Suspect fuel issues. Car cranks, fires then dies. I reckon it is out of fuel (despite gauge showing fuel and no fuel light on..) Checked the dizzy cap to see if any spark issues. Looks ok to me. Awaiting some petrol to see. Wish me luck. Thankfully the burd is ok. Split_Pin, meshking, Coprolalia and 1 other 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Split_Pin 13021 Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Hope it's just that! 320touring 1 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 10L of fuel, 10sec for the pump to prime and away we went. Must be overfuelling to fuck. I think a temp sender needs ordered, as 20mpg ain't right! The Moog, Jim Bell, Split_Pin and 3 others 6 Link to post Share on other sites
The Moog 17649 Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 At least it is a simple fix. 320touring 1 Link to post Share on other sites
mitsisigma01 2234 Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 You've got the fuel you just need a lighter 😬 Easily fixerated 320touring 1 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 I have ordered a temp sender to replace the one on the car, and a set of oil drain plug keys so I can check the gearbox oil level.. As, most curious. Was taking the burd to get Chiropractor appointment, went round a roundabout (3rd exit) and joined the motorway. The rumbling got much quieter and remained that way until I parked up. Fuck knows what's going on.. No obvious heat in the wheels from brakes or bearings Link to post Share on other sites
jaypee 241 Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Glad the small libation sorted it out! 😂😎 Split_Pin and 320touring 2 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Today started bright.. The new temp sensor arrived I was determined to fit it today, so finished work and had an hr of light available. First thing to do was get the old sender out This clip levers out with a flatblade screwdriver Lastly, the sender just pulls out Fitting is the reverse of removal. All good on that count. I pulled the plugs to see their condition.. That doesn't look too clever.. Time to check the other potential culprits Airbox/ filter blocked? Nup, no squirrels stashing their nuts here. What about the injector system and the mounts to the inlet? All tight and secure. I cleaned the sparkplugs then started the car. 5mins... No change on the gauge 10mins... No change on the gauge. Tested the new sender Same as the old one... I took it for a thrash. No change on the gauge, bogging at full throttle (like a carb car running rich). Got home and pulled a plug Fuck scdan4, Split_Pin, Lacquer Peel and 3 others 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 I made a call to @Mk2 Craig this evening, and picked his brains re the two main issues on this tub. Many thanks to him! Our combined thoughts are as follows: Rich Running: Either a vacuum leak (although we would expect that to cause lean running) Or a sensor issue. With the new sensor showing "1" when having resistance test ( like the old sensor) we suspect the sensors are both failed. He confirmed that the wiring to the red sensor should just be for measuring resistance - so not to expect any voltage at it. We suspect a combo of damaged wiring and dead sensor. My next step is to swap the plug from the red sensor onto the blue sensor - it shows resistance that drops as the car warms up. If it makes the Gauge do something, we can rule out the wiring and focus on the sensor. "THE NOIZE": Based on Craig's observations, the most common failure issue with the 020 gearbox is it losing a pin from the diff and grenading in spectacular fashion. I will check the gearbox oil level. Most likely suspects remain: Front wheelbearings (we did spin them up, but they were in the air so not under any load) Rear wheelbearings - not difficult to change. Tyres causing the noise. The initial plan is to do some more checking of the bearings when I have the car up. Then I'll swap on known good wheels and tyres - hopefully that should rule them in/out. So, some stuff to be getting on with. Split_Pin, scdan4, Andyrew and 5 others 8 Link to post Share on other sites
Split_Pin 13021 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Following this as a forthcoming addition to my fleet has an almost identical issue. Plugs look fine however. Lacquer Peel, loserone, davehedgehog31 and 2 others 5 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 Second stab at the sensor issue today.. I connected the red plug to the blue sensor. And ran the car up to temp. It ran rough (instantly solved with reattaching the blue connector). Needle didn't move. The new red sensor was tested at cold Not much showing there. Lastly, I grounded out both pins on the red plug to check for continuity This is the right one And the left Could the differential reading be an issue? Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 I also found this vac line hiding.. It goes to the back of the inlet hood Thusly. It's not a big line but it goes down to the airbox... Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Pastry 1106 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 1 hour ago, 320touring said: Could the differential reading be an issue? I don't think so. All you are doing really is checking for continuity in the circuit which attaches to each pin, and as they are two different circuits they may well have different resistances if you earth them. Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 4 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said: I don't think so. All you are doing really is checking for continuity in the circuit which attaches to each pin, and as they are two different circuits they may well have different resistances if you earth them. So I can assume the wires are in decent order as there is continuity? Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Pastry 1106 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Just now, 320touring said: So I can assume the wires are in decent order as there is continuity? I would say so. In real life the sensor isn't earthing them, it is a variable resistance link between the two. Link to post Share on other sites
Split_Pin 13021 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 54 minutes ago, 320touring said: I also found this vac line hiding.. It goes to the back of the inlet hood Thusly. It's not a big line but it goes down to the airbox... 100% the same vac line that was not attached on the one forthcoming into my fleet. Made no difference. Just for comparison my list was: Temp sensor at ECU (done) Plugs Leads Vacuum lines Spray pattern of injector Cleanliness of TB (didn't take it off to see underneath though) Cat is relatively recent Things I will try as suggested by other ken't knowledgeable souls: Coil Replace cat (last resort) Lambda sensor Inspection of distributor cap, rotor arm. Fuel pump and filter. Pretty sure you've tried most of these but hey ho. Lacquer Peel 1 Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted Sunday at 10:45 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 10:45 PM Today started well: Got the two red sensors (old and new) tested cold Old New That's 2.8 and 2.1 ohms respectively. The blue one showed a "1" I drove it for 25mins or so, then checked again.. Red Blue What this tells me, I am at a loss to know. Then moved on to swapping on a known good set of wheels/tyres to see if that was the cause of "THE NOIZE"... First, the LHS was swapped, and Test driven. No change. And it wouldn't idle. FUCK. Swapped the RHS, test drove, no change Still not idling. On the way back into the street, I couldn't get 1/2 gears... Why? thats why. Selector rod had pulled out the cup. As you can see, the end of the rod is flared Hole in plastic not wide enough to get the tip in (🤭) Looks to have had the plastic formed round the rod. The rod was heated up, and pushed into the plastic. It's all back together and all gears are accessible. I'll likely buy another as a spare. Back to the idle/running issues. I started it up, and it idled fine...😤 All the plugs on the throttle body were pulled, and cleaned. This was the worst. With the car running, we then pulled one plug at a time. The brown plug pictured stalled the car. Two of the others caused rough running (showing the sensors were doing something) The one attached to the Idle control valve didn't cause any change. So it was pulled off. The mechanism seems to work fine - essentially it's just a spring loaded arm that stops the throttle arm from closing - it takes a reference vacuum off the injection unit. Again, no change. At this point the alternator belt was observed.. Fuck sake. Last check was the rotor cap. Hmm. This came off the pins. They were cleaned up with Emery paper. As was the rotor arm. Still no difference. Totally at a loss. The plugs were cleaned, then I drove it another 25 mins or so. I'll pull them to check tomorrow and see if they are fouled Craig the Princess, Jim Bell, cort16 and 1 other 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites
sloth 717 Posted Monday at 02:41 AM Share Posted Monday at 02:41 AM coolant sensors on vw should never show an open circuit. have you replaced both sensors with new ones? Link to post Share on other sites
320touring 19083 Posted Monday at 10:56 AM Author Share Posted Monday at 10:56 AM 8 hours ago, sloth said: coolant sensors on vw should never show an open circuit. have you replaced both sensors with new ones? Only replaced the red one so far. Blue one was my next port of call. Will double check the reading at cold today. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
sloth 717 Posted Tuesday at 02:18 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:18 AM blue feeds signal to ecu for engine temp. always replace the rubber o rings too. Link to post Share on other sites
Fraz 460 Posted Tuesday at 03:15 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 03:15 AM Is it worthwhile firing a new dizzy cap, leads and plugs on anyway given it looks like that caps breaking up? Alternatively a cheap spark tester to have to hand to check what the spark is doing when it’s not idling/running right? I got one of those online spark testers from eBay a while back. Fine for occasional use. (Not that I’ve owned a petrol in years) Also - do you know the temp gauge works? I always thought that if a temp sensor wasn’t working in those engines you could swap plugs to test the gauge is working correctly. Assuming at least one of them is working? Following on from that. Follow the wiring from red sensor to the gauge to see if they have continuity etc? A wiring diagram would be perfect for that. Link to post Share on other sites
cort16 56775 Posted yesterday at 09:02 AM Share Posted yesterday at 09:02 AM Quite a tough one you've got on your hands as you're in the no-mans land between carburetors and full efi with diagnostics. That cap really doesn't look good, I don't think I've ever seen that before. If it's that corroded then the gap between the rotor arm and cap could be too great. These run a single injector tpi setup don't they? If the cars been sitting is it possible the injector is gubbed and it's dribbling rather than spraying? It would explain the sooty plugs and the crap running. Can you get the injector out? Link to post Share on other sites
Lacquer Peel 16955 Posted yesterday at 10:27 AM Share Posted yesterday at 10:27 AM On the Cavalier SPI you can see the injector spray with the throttle body cover off, I think this would be similar Link to post Share on other sites
Fumbler 2752 Posted yesterday at 12:54 PM Share Posted yesterday at 12:54 PM IIRC with the filter housing off the throttlebody, the TBI will be in full view so you can check if it's misting correctly. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now