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Memoirs from the Hard Shoulder: bASeman's Spot of the Year award.


BorniteIdentity

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9 hours ago, LightBulbFun said:

when your at the time you want to link to, right click the youtube video and click "copy URL at current time" :) 

like so :)

image.thumb.png.757449de6aad73cc5d20b898b86d0cb8.png

 

but its always worth mentioning the time your linking to, incase the link does fail to advance the video to the specified time!

Rarely use the laptop, chap. Phone 95% of the time. 

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10 hours ago, LightBulbFun said:

when your at the time you want to link to, right click the youtube video and click "copy URL at current time" :) 

like so :)

image.thumb.png.757449de6aad73cc5d20b898b86d0cb8.png

 

but its always worth mentioning the time your linking to, incase the link does fail to advance the video to the specified time!

I see... Any excuse to post a picture of my arse!!! 

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Yo Bornite, are you on facebook? If so check out a guy called Steve Saxty, he must have worked at Fords styling dept in the 80's - he is always posting up old photos of Ford prototypes and styling proposals from  back in the day, loads of great pics of early sierras that never saw the light of day, e.g. 3-dr Base with the XR4i double rear windows etc. Really good pics.

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That looks superb very well done.

Concerning the door card. Is the only difference between base & L door trim a cloth insert?

If so, I just wondered if you took the cloth bit off an L door trim would it look like the base model one behind it? Might sound daft but that base model door trim just looks like they left the cloth panel off it.

On the other hand I could be talking shit (I've done that before :blink2:)

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1 hour ago, LightBulbFun said:

Yay! did the MOT tester have any comments on it, or is he used to it? :) 

Not really. He has a brace of old fords himself (including a Sierra truck, an Escort RS Cosworth wotever and a very early Fiesta) so is quite sensible about tests. There’s still a tiny water leak coming from somewhere, and the rear cluster needed a bit of film to make the tail light redder - otherwise very good indeed!

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2 hours ago, BorniteIdentity said:

Not really. He has a brace of old fords himself (including a Sierra truck, an Escort RS Cosworth wotever and a very early Fiesta) so is quite sensible about tests. There’s still a tiny water leak coming from somewhere, and the rear cluster needed a bit of film to make the tail light redder - otherwise very good indeed!

Amazing result.....especially considering was stood a year. Looks great in the 'best side on' pic too

That water leak....wet water or coolant type water?

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Just now, alf892 said:

Amazing result.....especially considering was stood a year. Looks great in the 'best side on' pic too

That water leak....wet water or coolant type water?

Remember how you said buy a top hose and I bought a bottom hose? And how I laughed about it but you, basically, did not? 

Yep. 

To be honest it can’t be that bad as neither of us spotted it, but he’s not anal at all and thought it worth mentioning. 

So he mentioned that leak, told me he used some film on the offside rear lamp to get the tail light red and not white (even though I put a red bulb in - it was potent), took £45 of my not-so-hard earned and sent me on my way.

 

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Every time I look at the bASe it reminds me of my old Mk3 Escort van, whose reg was only two digits different (CVG514Y).

That's actually what convinced me that this isn't the bASe I owned about 20 years ago - that was a red 5-door Y-plate 1.6 on a Norwich reg, but if the plate had been that similar to the van's I would've remembered it.

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14 minutes ago, Angrydicky said:

Is the heater any better now? I thought the matrix was probably clogged, it never used to really produce any heat. GR1 at this time of year.

Negative. I did buy one of those too, only later realising what a shitty job it will be to replace.  Apparently a good back flushing fixes most, and you can get some stuff to stick in if really necessary.

I’ll likely start with a dishwasher tablet ! 

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When I first met Amy her corsa had no heating. 20 minutes of firing a hose at full whack into the inlet and outlet of the matrix from the engine bay eventually made it vomit out a load of shit, and voila, toasty heating again!

However I suppose doing this will very quickly tell you if the matrix is a bit fucked, but then it's probably a better time to find out than 70mph on the m1 on your way to sell moar life insurance policies

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4 minutes ago, brownnova said:

Conversely I had a Ka which had the heating stuck on hot all year round!

Well done on the MoT pass!! 

Would have been the diverter valve! I had the one go in my Puma but to cold... was fun in January! Luckily the air-con still roughly worked so I could still de-mist, but it was still not fun at 11pm leaving somewhere!

A new one worked fine, and when the car went for scrap I removed it again and repaired a friends fiesta that had just done the same.

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Good substitute for expensive cleaners for stuff like heater matrices?

Cheap diet cola.  Fill it up, wait 24 hours, flush thoroughly.

The amount of gunge that can come out sometimes is downright alarming.  Especially if someone has mixed coolant types at some point.  My Lada was on OAT coolant when I got it but obviously wouldn't have been originally.  I took the heater being full of slime (hence utterly impotent) when I got it as a sign the system hadn't been properly purged before the type was changed.

Volcanic levels of heat returned after the aforementioned flushing procedure.  Mercifully the rest of the system seemed fine.

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10 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Good substitute for expensive cleaners for stuff like heater matrices?

Cheap diet cola.  Fill it up, wait 24 hours, flush thoroughly.

The amount of gunge that can come out sometimes is downright alarming.  Especially if someone has mixed coolant types at some point.  My Lada was on OAT coolant when I got it but obviously wouldn't have been originally.  I took the heater being full of slime (hence utterly impotent) when I got it as a sign the system hadn't been properly purged before the type was changed.

Volcanic levels of heat returned after the aforementioned flushing procedure.  Mercifully the rest of the system seemed fine.

thought it had to be full fat???? or am I missing summat?

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Think the important bit is the phosphoric acid flavouring and carbonation.  The former breaks down rust, the latter just generally agitates things.  Diet always seems massively more fizzy too and is less prone to leaving such a sticky residue if spilled...is just what I've always used as it's what our friendly local mechanic told me...

More than happy to be corrected though...

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My heater in the Volvo was stone cold all the time this time last year. I just pulled the inlet and outlet hoses off the heater in the engine bay and connected a hose pipe to them. Repeatedly blasting clean water in one way then the other quickly shifted the blockage. Loads of thick gunk came out, once the water was running out clean I called it job jobbed. Someone had used stop leak stuff in at some stage which I’m convinced was the root cause!

Its been perfect ever since. It costs nothing so worth a try before you start buying things to fix it.

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