Jump to content

Bornite- Talk to me about Stainless Exhausts pls!

Recommended Posts

I'm just going to assume that the Mini has been fitted with plenty of anti-theft gear. Thieves don't care for personal tales.


Not saying Alf lives anywhere dodgy, but I just see so many tales of woe regarding stolen Minis (and Land Rovers).

Well......no immobiliser.........nice sharp bend at the end of the road though and it has zero brakes so should end up embedded in the fence. The resultant noise should wake my dog.


Sort of sorted

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

PHACKT - one of my ex-SWMBO’s grandads was Mr. Robinson himself. He also used to run the coach services as well as the garage. I’ve been to his house as well, he still lives in Kimbolton as far as I know.


Sad times on the for sale front though :-(

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well......no immobiliser.........nice sharp bend at the end of the road though and it has zero brakes so should end up embedded in the fence. The resultant noise should wake my dog.


Sort of sorted

Nailed it.


Perhaps I should go to bed with the brake master cylinder henceforth?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Job jobbed on the Avensis. Not watching the numbers too closely - let’s say £400 for arguments sake to tease it through for another year. All cars need tyres so scrub them off and it wasn’t too bad. And, anyway, it’d be entirely irresponsible to throw a car away over a bloody brake pipe - especially when the replacement part has an indefinite life span. 


So onwards and upwards. 248,500 miles (not out)


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So, in the past 6 years the Avensis has done almost 150k. Not bad going, but when you consider it was already 100k up that is a damn good show.


Yep. I bought it July 2013 with 100,200 miles on it. The previous owners were convinced that was the expected life of the car and chopped it in for a new Kia. A trader went to buy a car from Kia, which was shit, but needed something to get home in so gave (probably) £250 for this. I bought it for £800 with a full fresh ticket, tax (remember that) and a full tank. It was probably £150 more than others but the Tuscan Plum ones look lush and I always wanted to try an SR. All I’ve done since is drive it and look after it. It’s had a couple of timing belt kits, a clutch and a radiator. That’s it. It’s always been about £400 a year to keep it going which is cheap really.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a huge push now to get this bloody Mini finished and off Alf's driveway.  The initial dream was to have it taxed and tested for the Bonk Holiday weekend coming, but that's now highly unlikely to happen because of other commitments and niggles along the way.  It also didn't help that I left the replacement brake pipe at mine when we towed the car last week.  Ah.


I arrived last night to find attentions had been turned to the wipers.  To recap: they don't work.  A few weeks ago there was the most incredibly putrid smell ever encountered.  It smelled like a mix of cat piss, human vomit and dog shit.  It was so strong you could smell it at 15 paces.  I put it down to the car being laid up for so long and 'burning something off' (my excuse for everything).  It was only after I accidentally put my hand on the wiper motor did we realise the culprit.  It was totally stucking stucked mate.  Big stucking time.




This may* explain why.  




Quick blast sent an oxide mist across the garage.




Lubey AF.




Stick it back on.  Boom.




Let's just say that the motor isn't in the first flush of youth, but will get us an MOT.  It's not going to be a car for rainy days (as anyone who's ever driven one will attest) so it's just about satisfying the ministry right now.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

What about the lights?  I can't remember if I wrote this all out previously - but I did make a start a few weeks ago.  Anyway, the two relays (hazards and indicators) were "Best Before Thatcher" and had consciously uncoupled from the wiring of the car.  Two new ones purchased from MiniSpares (along with bases) and I set about wiring them up.  To start with I got the Hazards working with relative ease (except the offside front which I put down to a bulb) so moved onto the indicators.  Let's just say this didn't pan out as I would have liked, and I ended that day with just one single side light working on the entire car.


Anyway, wipers working enough - we took a look.  By we, I mean Alf - with me hovering.




One tooth from the fuse box completely rusted away.  Strong start.  We cleaned this up with a fluid which, I believe, is likely banned in the EU.  If it isn't, it should be.  It could strip the smile from a lottery winner!  Fortunately there was a spare position on the box which we used instead.


You'll never ever work out why the brake light wasn't working.  The PO had robbed the fucking bulb.  Unbelievable, Jeff.




The front indicator that won't work was, indeed, a bulb.  A bulb that had made that little holder its home.  A bulb seemingly with a lifetime, pre-AST tenancy.  A bulb with the right to remain.  A bulb what wasn't going to shift.  In the end, it was a hammer and pliers - so it died a martyr just as it would have wanted.  Fucking thing.




Plenty of corrosion here.  Also, the spring no longer springs.  We fucked about a bit but decided, at £6, it was better to buy a replacement which I will do later.


The final job was to try and get a 'tell tale' for the indicators.  The hazard switch itself illuminates when operated, so we were just looking for something to indicate...err.. indication.  This is where the fun began.  I will document this clearly here, so that future generations don't have to resort to the kind of language we used for five minutes.




12 o'clock on the dial - Green Light. - Indicator Tell tale.


3 o'clock on the dial - Amber light - Not actually an amber light.  It's a fucking lie.  BLANK.


5 o'clock on the dial - Red Light - IGN.  (Pronounced IGNUN).  Ignition.


7 o'clock on the dial - Blue Light - HB.  (Pronounced HURRBURR).  High beam lights (two candles)


9 o'clock on the dial - Amber Light - OIL. (Pronounced OIL).  Oil pressure.


On some fancy ones, and in different markets, the amber lights either side are for indication and the green one indicates when it's meal time or something.  My car is a CITY E - and the above is correct.  Trust me. (!!)




We are getting a little closer each day.  Can't wait to finally drive it home.  (Nor can Alf's wife)


OH. And the reason I couldn't get both hazards AND indicators working last month?  One of the relays was a duff.  Can't wait to disucuss that with Minispares (!)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great to see there are now 12 volts flowing comfortably in places where they should be.

I don't know what you're fussing about, in all honesty. A Mini is a smoll car, so all fixes should take less time, as it doesn't take as long to walk around it...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That Speedo is the same as in my 1100 (and probably lots of other BL poverty chod). The extra amber is used as an oil change warning light on it. It does this by looking at the pressure difference between the inlet and outlet of the filter with a pressure switch. Don't think they were ever that reliable tbh. Or the filter was completely blocked by the time it lit.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, standard Smiths speedo of the era :)


Lots of different calibrations though.  BI's City E with its 10" wheels should have a 1248ish tpm unit (which is hard to find now!).  Standard diff cars with 10" wheels used a 1376.


Light on HRW switch is green.  Wiring another warning light into the unused locations in the speedo is a really good idea.


I've thought about adding an immobiliser-esque flashing LED in the same spot.  Would be invisible and look totally standard.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't that a recycled unit from a different BL car, where red was Ign, green was oil pressure, blue brights and the orange lights were left/right indicator warning lights?


All of which meant the layout was pointless when mounted in the middle so half of it was rearranged?



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure that speedo unit features in various vans and commercials too, hence the slightly creative use of colours to denote various functions.


I had a mk3 Fiesta with a brake light switch that tended to stick on, so I wired in a dash light to show me when the rear bulbs were glowing. That way I could manually give the underside of the pedal a quick tap up with my toes if it hadn't sprung back quite enough. I think there was a handy ABS warning light in the cluster that I used, most Fiestas of the era weren't specified with that particular feature!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Many years ago a phone call late one night from my aunt, who lived a hundred miles away, "There's a light on, on my car!" I eventually worked out, after establishing that she was home and then a load of questions, that it was the charging light. "You'd better go and see Robert" was my response.

Robert is my brother, who lived three miles from her and runs a garage. Aunt's reply, "I didn't want to bother him as he'll be busy"

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Right! Now. Where were we?

Ah yes. A shitbox Mini that’s not been inspected by the Ministry since 1998.

We’ve been hard at it (fnar fnar) every night this week, although I was AWOL last night. Progress is good yet frustrating. 


Tappy Tappets no longer pay tribute to Danny La Rue. The car is whisper quiet (video on twitter @danielfoxfm if you fancy it)


Float valve needle is being a “CuntPig” (patent pending) so a new one is being fitted later. 


I didn’t think the car even HAD reverse lights, never mind twin ones! A few minutes were spent trying to make the offside one as bright as everything else. Having checked the earth and cleaned the bulb holder with a Dremel - closer inspection revealed a 24v bulb. Rather than adding a second battery to the car we compromised on a 12v bulb.

The near side headlight has never been right. So much rust around the wing rendered the bowl almost unattached. Fortunately, Alf had a Rivet gun and had been frothing at the mouth like a rabid dog at the thought of using it. 




Job’s a goodun. 

Emissions are good!


Now we just need to sort the back brakes. More on that in the next update as, as is always the case with me, nothing is ever straightforward. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

These brakes then. 

Well, we first tried about 6 weeks ago to make it stop as well as it goes. A decision was taken to refresh everything that even looked suspect as, despite any assumptions you’ve made to the contrary, I rather enjoy both being alive and having use of my own legs. So the anchors had a complete refresh on fettling day 2, apart from the front to back pipe which looked fine. We were bleeding it all up, and feeling very positive, until all of a sudden it let go. Frustratingly, there was a short section of pipe which isn’t visible due to being routed above the rear subframe. Guess were it broke?! Anyway, better on my driveway than at the top of a slip road. 

A second attempt on Tuesday night was also fruitless; the so far brilliant MiniSpares unfortunately dropped an bollock (somehow) and sold me an incorrect replacement pipe. Further time wasted. So last night, with a fresh reel of pipe and road so flooded I had to sweep it down the drain, brakes were finished! 


What a feeling! A car that goes AND NOW STOPS! 

And also strops.

I do understand though. I get it. 21 years is a long time to be on garden leave. To ask it to go from watching Judge Rinder each day to immediate conscription and onto the front line was a huge ask. First to pack up were the lights. Fortunately there are only FOUR fuses, so that was simple enough. I took it for a quick blez and it goes brilliantly. Braking, you’ll be pleased to know, is every bit as awful as nonservo 10” wheels suggest it might be. 

Back at Alf’s he jumped in the copilots seat and we went for a longer run. 

Only we didn’t. 

ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: 1st maintenance pause. 

Fortunately this was achieved at the top of a hill, so I coasted most of the way back before we pushed it, in disgrace, back home. 

Verdict? Shit from tank. Once the car was given the chance to chill, it started up fine. Hopefully this can all be resolved with an inline filter and a bit of luck. We also tidied up wiring from the coil and inspected the rotor arm which will get replaced. 

More on lights next time, and the final push to get this turd finished.

Again, huge thanks to my pal and all round nice guy Alf892. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Illumination. Not something you necessarily associate with Minis - especially those with sealed beam units. The nearside unit was fine, despite appearing to be the original Lucas unit. Offside was on strike, but fortunately Alf’s chum had one in his collection*

Once fitted it worked perfectly. For all of 5 minutes. Again, it’s hard to complain when you’re asking stuff to perform flawlessly when 5 minutes ago it was retired. The returns policy, being a 30 year old lamp, is debatable - so I’ve bitten the bullet and added an H4 modified set. They mostly just screw on, other than I needed to make a small adjustment with an angle grinder to simplify sidelight bulb changing. 


First time I’ve ever armed myself with such a device. Terrifying. 10/10 would repeat. 

New fuel pump now fitted. Alf loved** this. Look at him practically humping the car!


Now it’s just the small matter of presenting it for a test, which will happen when I find time. Having had 4 nights and a morning on this during this week alone, I probably need to give other things a bit of attention. 

One final pic. The effortlessly cool Alf in his best jumper and 50s style specs, chuffing a cigar and blezzing a Mini. This is what it’s all been about. 




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
    • By TripleRich
      Hi all, new to the forum.  Thought you might be interested in what I've got myself into
      I'd been after my first classic car for a while.  If it's big and made in the 70s I'm interested.  Looked at few things like P6s, Zodiacs, Victors, SD1s and various other things.  Problem was I didn't want to spend a boatload of money on something that looked alright but underneath was actually a total heap.  The solution was to buy a complete heap in the first place and spend the money fixing it.
      So in January I went ahead and bought this from a colleague at work who was moving away and needed to get shot of it.

      It's a part finished restoration (I prefer not started) and it needs a whole load of help if it's going to stand any chance of using a road again.
      It's right up my street.  Granada Coupes are quite odd and certainly stand out from the norm.
      It still has the original engine, box, interior and most trim.
      It came with loads of panels I need to repair it (mostly original Ford stock).
      It came with so many spares I could probably build a few Granadas and still have stuff left over.
      It was cheap.
      Most of the front end has been cut off.
      Most of the body structure is quite rotten.
      It's going to take me ages.
      I work at a restoration company and my boss kindly allows me to keep the car there.  So I've got access to all the gear I need to restore it.  I've been busy on the car for a while now so will post more pics over the coming days.
    • By davidfowler2000
      Edit: This is longer than initially anticipated.
      As some will have noticed, Mr cms206 of this parish reckons the death knell for the SVM is close with his recent purchase of a Saab. Going with the fact I still have a 100% Volvo fleet, as does Mr rml2345 of this parish I would personally say it's just diversification. Especially considering the amount of non Volvos cms206 has had these days.
      This aforementioned diversification continues a pace. Although the paperwork still needs to be done, I have some non Volvo incoming.

      My aunt got the above pictured 205 back in about 2002 and ran it for about 3 years. By her accounts she put it in the lockup, got a Nissan Almera for whatever reason and basically put the 205 in to the long term deal with pile. It was initially SORN on the blue log book. Back when there was a theft of blue V5s at Swansea and everyone in the country got sent one of the new red ones, one never arrived for the 205 and after that it was properly forgetten about. Well she did. I've been keeping it in my mind every day since then. During a discussion over my birthday dinner a few weeks ago, she mentioned that she was going to pay the gardener she gets in to trim the trees to break in to the lockup because the padlock had rusted solid and she was desperate to use the space in the lockup. I said I'd do it free if I could assess the car. If it was completely fucked, it would have to get dragged out and put on a truck to go to the scrap heap. If I could get it moving, I would make it a project.
      Next day - 18th January:

      Time to break open the padlock then. Big screwdriver through the hasp and burst it within 3 seconds. Now to have a look at the car. It's dirty, 3 tyres are flat, one of them creased and the 4th is still at about 10psi. After FIFTEEN YEARS! A gentle rock confirms suspicions that all the wheels are locked so time to get all the wheels off and set about the brakes with a big swing press.
      The back wheels moved eventually. Judicious use the big hammer, two wheel bolts reinserted and a breaker bar as a lever got the back wheels turning. While the wheels were off I thought I'd see if they held air.
      All 4 tyres held 35psi. None of them appear to be cracked and the rubber is still "soft" to the scrape of a finger nail. Lack of sunlight attacking them I suppose but it'll get 4 new ones if it becomes roadworthy.
      After doing the back wheels, the front wheels quickly proved they could be a major problem. I took the calipers, pads and discs completely off the car and even with 2 wheel studs inserted and using the 3/4 drive breaker bar with an extra foot of length over the 1/2 bar, neither wheel / shaft would turn. So either the bearings had seized, the CV joints in the driveshafts had seized or something very sinister was happening inside the gearbox. By this time it was getting dark and cold so time to put it all away for another day.
      Another day - 24th January:
      Various discussions were had on the Scotoshite WhatsApp chat and the end result being Mr 320Touring of this parish agreed to come round for a shufty. He was wanting to check up on another car in a lockup only a mile or so away so it was a no brainer.
      As before, front wheels off, bar on the wheel bolts... nothing. What to do next? We need to use the car's own power to try to free off whatever is seized on the front wheels but the car is nose in to the lockup so we can't get jump leads to it. We need to drag it out but we don't have a tow rope however we manage to find what appears to be a self tightening dog collar / leash in the car and decide to cue MAXIMUM SKETCHINESS!!!

      A gentle tug from the ML of doom proved the NSF wheel is tight but not seized however the OSF is not moving. Fuck it... drag it while pushing from the front. If we need to shove it back in there's an old tyre in a pile of rubbish waiting to get uplifted by the council that can act as a cushion and the ML will do the job no bother. We also took the front brake discs off to minimise any drag from those.

      We decided to drag it out just enough to get my jump leads on to the battery. We had already taken the battery out to try it on the leads outside the car. Surprise surprise* it was so dead it had gone open circuit so there was absolutely no magic pixies flowing in to it. Luckily I had an old battery from the 740 that was the same size so that was obtained, inserted and then put to work. Time to leave it to charge for a wee bit.

      Now that we've got some electricity going from the ML in to the 205 it's time to see what will happen. Thanks to Mr Touring for providing the videos...
      At one point we were vexed by the daft French screw on battery terminals
      We were getting a bit desperate by this point. We used quite a lot of "easy start" and the amount of electricity was causing problems.
      We took a break at this point for 10 mins or so. Mainly to make sure we didn't get too frustrated but also to make sure the maximum possible amount of electricity was in the actual battery so that the leads were just there as a boost. This was clearly a good idea...
      Learning from all the antics of the last 15 mins or so we left it for another 5 mins. Using a clamp meter we let it get to the point that almost no electricity was flowing in the leads and therefore an almost complete charge and spraying the "easy start" ahead of time, results were finally had...
      YAY! MUCH ELATION! Oh and that old diesel stinks. Time to get the leads off, move the ML and let the 205 tick over for a few minutes to let the engine settle. Next we found out why the front wheels were not for turning...
      So yeah. All the CV Joints were completely solid. But anyways it was mission accomplished for the day. We got it moving and a general once over suggests that it should be easily salvageable therefore if auntie wants the space in the lockup, it's going to have to go somewhere. Time to put it back in and wrap up for the day.

      Thanks to 320 Touring in assistance. The list of work is substantial but not insurmountable. It needs - a battery, front discs, front pads, front calipers, front lower arms, front driveshafts, possibly bearings, rear drums, rear shoes, rear fitting kit, probably handbrake cables, flexi hoses all round, 4 new tyres, 3 of the 4 doors don't work properly, a water leak at the water pump but that can get done with a new cam belt, probably a thermostat, engine oil, filters all round, fresh fuel, a good clean, handbrake light, oil pressure light and a rear screenwash leak inside the tailgate.
      Oh and a sidelight bulb...

      Interim time:
      Lockup secured in Cumbernauld.
      Car transporter trailer booked for Wed 12th Feb to move it. The V70 will do the honours.
      Another bit of tinkering - 4th February
      So it has been agreed the V5 will be transferred in to my name. With an impending trailer move, I thought I'd go back and have another look at things and reassemble the front brakes. I've already installed a new battery so it can be started without the need for leads and it does so quite happily even though the fuel coming from the tank smells like paint. I drove it about in circles for 5 - 10 mins to free up the CV joints and scrape the rust off the brake discs. I also did some straight line tests pulling away in 2nd which seemed to free up the turbo actuator.
      I also found the radio code so I got that working but you'll have to take my word on it 'cos YouTube will just give me a copyright flag.
      I shall leave this one here just now. Not much will happen for a while. There will of course be the drama of the trailer move but once it's in the lockup a plan of action will need to be drawn up. A sensible first course will be, I think, to find someone who will give it a once over for MoT viability before any new parts are obtained. All the obvious stuff should be easily DIYable but I don't know what lurks underneath. Some things like the timing belt and water pump will be paid for but the rest will just get picked away at in due course.
      I also found some period souvenir parking tickets...


  • Create New...