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Supernaut

The Bavarian Misery Wagon [1995 BMW 316i]

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65681767_2019MOT.thumb.jpg.1cbed925fd285973df7486c3891918af.jpg

Advisories for both track rod ends and the front left tyre being cracked / perished.

Not bad! The front tyres are the ones that were on it when 17-Coffees and I acquired it in 2016, and they weren't in their first flush of youth back then. I suspected the TREs anyway.

The garage were very complimentary about how tidy it is. :D

 

 

@Tickman may I drop past your workshop sometime in the next couple of weeks? You don't need to make a special trip, but if you're around it would be nice to use your little tracking thingy, and I can lend a hand with anything you need help with too?

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Ooooh, look. Shiny new track rod end.

68805471_680976059069020_461021326125668

 

Imagine a mirror image of that photo for the passenger side too.

They required the use of hammers and a blowtorch. Did the driver's side one gently at first before resorting to the big guns. Then, on the passenger side, knowing what we were up against, we just went straight in with extreme prejudice with the blowtorch. Did the passenger side one in about half an hour, tops.

The problematic part was that locknut with the collar on the inboard end of the TRE. They were rather seized on. On the driver's side we initially tried using a hammer and a punch with some penetrating fluid too. Then eventually used a blowtorch and cooked it until it would move. On the passenger side, as already mentioned, it was straight in with the blowtorch, no messing about.

 

 

Mmmm, lovely.

 

69397943_757351291387876_918314418774946

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On 8/21/2019 at 3:49 PM, Supernaut said:

sometime in the next couple of weeks? You don't need to make a special trip, but if you're around it would be nice to use your little tracking thingy

Sorry Matt for not replying sooner, current state of play is I'm never there. 

Work and house renovation stuff have written off all of this year so far, hopefully things might settle down soon as I have plenty to be getting on with.

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On 8/21/2019 at 3:49 PM, Supernaut said:

sometime in the next couple of weeks? You don't need to make a special trip, but if you're around it would be nice to use your little tracking thingy

Sorry Matt for not replying sooner, current state of play is I'm never there. 

Work and house renovation stuff have written off all of this year so far, hopefully things might settle down soon as I have plenty to be getting on with.

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Nae worries. I'm sure we'll catch up sometime.

I've got it booked in for front wheel tracking for £37 on Wednesday at my local ATS.

I've not driven it much since doing the TREs but yesterday I noticed it was definitely pulling slightly to the left now. All that violence getting the TREs off obviously had an effect.

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The tracking is now sorted. Ooooh, it's lovely to drive. Straight ahead on the steering wheel is straight ahead on the road! The novelty! The steering is also lighter too.

 

In other news, the handbrake warning light has been coming on a bit too often as of late. It got to the point where the car thought the handbrake was on pretty much all the time.

I managed to adjust the little bracket the switch sits on so it has a much firmer contact with the handbrake lever, and from my limited testing (turning on the ignition and wiggling the handbrake lever around and pulling it up and down) it seems to have sorted it.

The interior currently looks like this:

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I've stopped for some lunch before reassembly.

 

EDIT: I did put it back together again after lunch. Just thought it wasn't worth an extra post.

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Before I get stuck in with this once again... what are common places for a coolant leak on one of these?

The MOT a few weeks ago had an advisory for a coolant leak, and it has been marking its territory a little bit, right at the very front, just behind the bumper. The coolant level is also looking a wee bit low. The street is currently too wet to tell anything right now though.

 

It also has an oil leak, but I suspect that is the valve cover gasket. I should probably do that too.

EDIT: Rocker/valve cover gasket ordered from ECP for £8.77 collect next day. That'll do.

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16 minutes ago, JeeExEll said:

Did you ever fit the front window draught excluder things?

As you can see in this lovely picture randomly selected from my collection, yes:

IMG_6677.thumb.JPG.c743de7f8f1240b7b0ad17c81606a529.JPG

They're rather effective, too. I can drive at 60mph+ with the windows wide open and all I get is wind noise, but without the buffeting. Of course, the windows are staying firmly closed until about April now.

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As mentioned in the grumpy thread, I ordered the wrong rocker cover gasket but will be collecting the correct one tomorrow.

I've also ordered a new radiator, and it looks like a piece of piss to fit, especially with it being a 4 cylinder.

 

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I've just finished replacing the rocker cover gasket, and as I was tightening up the final bolts, a parcelforce van pulled up.

A gentleman got out, and walked over to me carrying a Nissens branded box. It's only the bloody radiator I ordered yesterday lunchtime! I didn't even go for extra postage options, just the free postage!

That'll be getting swapped after lunch. I've looked out a couple of buckets to catch coolant in now, and the car is already parked pointing uphill.

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Any assistance from the AS hive mind?

I appear to have a bit of a stubborn air lock.

I'm getting the temp gauge inside the car sitting solid at halfway, but no heat through the vents. The top hose is getting warm, but not firm, and worryingly I'm not getting any pressure release from the rad cap.

No leaks underneath.

 

I'm filling it by the book, as in I'm removing the bleed screw next to the rad cap and pouring in coolant until it comes out of the bleed screw hole with no bubbles, then re-inserting the bleed screw and squeezing the top and bottom hoses to burp out any air bubbles.

The HBOL refers to a bleed screw on the thermostat housing on 4 cylinder models but I see nothing of the sort.

 

EDIT: according to various BMW forums you need to drive it at more than just idle speed to actually circulate coolant through the heater matrix properly. Hmm.

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Get a 2 L bottle and cut the bottom off.

 

Stick the neck Into the top of the expansion tank on the side of the rad.

Fill it to the top.

Heaters to full warm, vents all open. Fan on Max.

 

Start the car and take it to 2k rpm.

Hold it there for a minute.

Should suck coolant in.

Open the bleed screw - close it when water comes out.

 

Repeat until heaters are hot (make sure you keep the 2L bottle topped up)

I'd then leave it overnight and take it for a test run tomorrow.

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I did that, and the wind picked up and kept blowing the bottle of water over.

However, I got a few big bubbles out, but still no significantly warm air through the blowers before the wind picked up again and threw the bottle over.

 

I'm not entirely convinced how well the cap fits this new radiator. It didn't come with a cap, so I re-used the old one. It takes a couple of attempts to get it to screw on, and even with the bleed screw closed and the cap on, I can squeeze the top hose and hear the cap hissing.

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24 minutes ago, 320touring said:

Could be the old rad has bent and twisted, taking the cap with it?

Seems that way.

Just took it for a drive. It holds temperature fine but I could only get a tiny tiny bit of heat through the heater. Undoing the rad cap when I got back yielded no pressure release.

It seems the rad caps used on these are fairly universal across lots of BMW models, so I might drop in past the scrap yard tomorrow.

 

I'm also planning to drive to the borders sometime tomorrow...

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Bleeding these things takes me back, have had a few 4 pot E30s.

My method did not involve a pop bottle but doing it too would probably help.

Heaters set to full hot in the car

Start her up

Open the bleed screw on the rad and hold her at about 2krpm for a couple of minutes.

You should see a jet of water out of the rad screw that should have gaps in as the air comes out.

Keep it up for a couple of mins/until covered in coolant from head to toe and then do up the bleed screw (while still revving) then let go and check the heater.

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3 hours ago, Dave_Q said:

Bleeding these things takes me back, have had a few 4 pot E30s.

My method did not involve a pop bottle but doing it too would probably help.

Heaters set to full hot in the car

Start her up

Open the bleed screw on the rad and hold her at about 2krpm for a couple of minutes.

You should see a jet of water out of the rad screw that should have gaps in as the air comes out.

Keep it up for a couple of mins/until covered in coolant from head to toe and then do up the bleed screw (while still revving) then let go and check the heater.

That seems like a very messy way of doing it!

I managed to get quite a stream coming out of the bleed screw even at idle...

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2 minutes ago, Lacquer Peel said:

I've always bled the system by taking the radiator/expansion tank cap off and leaving the engine to idle, that includes XUDs that are supposed to be a pig to bleed.

 

 

I guess it's worth a shot. That's actually what I did when I accidentally knocked a coolant hose off a while ago (it wasn't screwed on very well) while replacing the oil filter.

Typically, there was only one E46 in the scrap yard with the right radiator but no cap in sight. Still not sure whether to suspect the cap or a stubborn air lock.

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Alright.

I let it idle with the rad cap off, and every now and then I loosened the bleed screw and watched the level drop, then topped it up.

I did this for a good 10 minutes or so and I have toasty warm heaters. They got even warmer when I put the cap back on too.

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