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V70 tdi. Fucked. Again.

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What a nice day, and I had the afternoon free to spend down the unit gently pottering. I drank tea the whole time I was there, as is normal, but I’ve been back an hour and am on my 5th pint of squash. Headache is now easing. Keep drinking kids, ‘‘tis hot.

Throbber got her bay degreased and jetwashed. Seemed a good time to do it, it certainly dried quick 

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Nice and clean to the touch now, there was a huge amount of gunge over everything, so I covered it in degreaser every day last week, plenty degreaser (about 2 litres) plenty soaked in. There’s a little bit less paint in places now but so worth it.

But wait what’s that

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Brakes have been accused of being sub par. A dying master cylinder might do it. No worries though as brakes are on the to do list and I, of course, have a spare master cylinder on donkey.

Then I hid in the shade and furtled with the engine. Cambelt checked and discarded as it was cracking, idlers and water pump removed, and chucked. Most bits wiped over with white spirit and blue roll - most of the caked on crud has now been removed. Cam removed, cam buckets replaced with new(!), cam replaced but not torqued. Pump belt and idlers replaced with throbbers new ones. Glow plugs removed and found to be a good matching set 

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Pleased to have actually found something I can reuse, they went back in. Gasket faces and metal hose barbs were cleaned up, the vacuum pump was stripped, cleaned and reassembled.

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Looking much betterer to my eye. Nothing will happen with it now until I get crank and camshaft oil seals, and some torque values and a torque wrench I trust to do it all back up. (I can’t remember how long ago I got mine but I think it would be 2003, and it would have been the cheapest available. Can you check them easily?)  Plan A there is to “SuperTom” all of that on Monday morning.

Slowly plodding on in the right direction I think.

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Deadhorse, some time ago 

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Deaddonkey, this morning.

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Had a good stint stripping the flesh from the carcass yesterday evening, it can’t hang around as there are fairly strict tax and test rules on the estate which we are low key flouting. Not a problem as long as it looks tidy, but I’m still waiting for the v5 so the metal fairy won’t touch it yet. Lights, bumper wheels and probably front doors still to come off, but it will start being noticeable then so I’ll do it the day it goes.

 

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Bloody comfy now though. Plenty legroom.

 

 

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On the way to work this morning I stopped by GSF to pick up my cam seals and crank seal and bolt. Because work is a short walk away and GSF is on the other side of town, it wasn’t really on the way. So most sensible thing to do to stop losing the bits was to drop them by the unit.

But where to put them where they will be safe? We all know where, and it’s only a 5 minute job...

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ta da. No chance of loss or damage now. Hmm, tea’s still hot, I’ll just offer up the cover....

and then cold tea .

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Make some more tea, borrow a torque wrench (“don’t drop it. Please. If you do drop it, don’t not mention it, tell me. But just don’t fucking drop it “) use the wrench drink the tea

 

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and all zipped up. I’ll admit to scratching my head as to why the aux belt that I was trying to pop on for the photo was so long. I’ve never claimed to be bright.

As I still wasn’t at work, and work still hadn’t rung I looked a bit closer at the odd chafing on the crank sensor wire.

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Mr Mouse has been busy. I slit some old rubber hose and zip tied it over. I then shifted my attention to the falling apart hard wired into the loom glow plug feed.

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Which you’ll notice is no longer hard wired into anything. Cheers donkey. This got badly rebuilt in a similar way and a sturdy eyelet soldered onto the end. Forgot to take pictures though. By this point it was to late to go to work, so i moved the engine stand out and had a look and rough clean of the manifold side.

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Not a lot to go wrong on this side. Gave it a clean and rethreaded a turbo stud.

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In theory, that should be ready to go. I’m pleased with my day. I’d recommend not making it to work to you all.

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Good progress !!

I need to copy your antics, and replace my cam and crank seal too, ones I got when I did the cam belt are not quite right.

Thanks for updating progress, good to see D5252T love on these pages 

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It’s in. 

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and this being the internet I can pretend it happened just like that, no bother, dropped that bad boy in before breakfast and then went for a run.

 

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Remember I said I’d never put an engine on a stand before... 

That little peg at the base of the ring gear is the TDC marker. You can probably see it’s trapped between the engine holding up bolt heads. Problemo uno.

That little peg at the base of the ring gear is the TDC marker. It lines up against a mark in the gearbox. Which is removed. Problemo dos.

Luckily I worked all this out having whipped everything off, so had no residual timing either. Balls.

But... checking on the spare / old stuff, the gearbox mark is opposite the sump cut out, and by some stroke of luck that’s within the ring gear pegs limited arc of movement. Surely not? Happy days. So I build off that, but cannot do the crucial turn it over by hand check.

Off the stand onto a crane, the gearbox just slips on (which should have been an omen). I’m confident it’s good, I put a lot of thinking into it, but I’m old enough to know you have to check it by hand. 

Bugger. There’s 2 slots in the sump, one opposite TDC marker, one very much not. Turns out. Bugger.

Welcome to D5252t timing. Attempt 2. Swinging around on a hoist in mid air. Can’t put it down cos that TDC marker is underneath it all. All covers off, cam unbolted both ends, all tensioners off. Find crank TDC, don’t mark it on the pulley as we won’t be here again, we know what we’re doing now. Take cam off, reset to cam TDC with the slot at the timing end parallel and above, torque cam down, set cam belt tensioner at timing end , find pump TDC mark, set tensioners. Speak to Ross and say how well it’s going, go and turn it over by hand to show him. Oh fuck.

Guess who didn’t torque up the cam wheels. I was getting pretty fed up with it now but...

Strip it back and do it again. Third time lucky. This time the TDC peg is a complete twat to find. And on your own it’s a twat of a job to find it as you have to get under the swinging, very heavy engine to look, but be standing at one end of the engine to turn it over, a degree at a time. But I got there. It turns over by hand and everything.

Time now was very short, so exceedingly grumpily, I pushed the awkward, exceedingly heavy engine crane and engine over the bumpy concrete to the Throbber, which was about as unpleasant job as I have done recently. The wheels stop dead on any little bump, or worse, dip, and will only move with a “gonna get a hernia or shit myself” shove, at which point you are instantly trying to control a many many kilo pendulum. 

I were that nobbed off by the time I had it swinging over the bay that I just kinda threw it in until it got stuck, then shouted for super Tom and a crowbar. Then legged it for the school run.

So it’s in. Fuck knows if it works, or what the collateral damage on the way in was, but it’s in.

Easy innit.

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Haha, yep timing on these engines is a tad rubbish.

Well done though !!

I'm hoping to have the dead engine out today, but I've got a gravel path to contend with, so hoping I can push the car away, rather than the engine crane, we shall see.

Out of curiosity - Do you still have the boxes the cam and crankshaft seals came in ? , I've ordered a set but I'm not convinced they are correct.

Well done that man.

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Thanks. 😁

I’d really not try it over gravel if I were you.It was awful over concrete/old tarmac. I was on me own though. To try that I’d want 5 bodies, 2 controlling the engine swing and 3 shifting the crane. I don’t know how heavy it all is, but it’s lots, all pushing those hard nylon wheels into the ground. Too much swing and the whole lot will go over. Have fun.

ive lobbed the boxes but they came from GSF as they listed dimensions for the seals on their website and had them on the shelf. The boy in store was great and helpful and I was a little incredulous that I’d found the fabled perfect autoshop, but then realised he’d given me the wrong, considerably short, change. 

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How did it go? ^^^

Is it fixed yet dad? Um, no. Not quite 😁

managed some time on it this weekend though and have been slowly plodding on. SuperTom  says autodata say it’s 16 hours for an engine swap. 2 full days of bloke who knows what he’s doing with the correct tools easily to hand. And a ramp. It’s not a small job, there really are quite a lot of bits!

Today I ar mostly been dun :

- took the ropes off and did the engine mounts up , including a little jack n wriggle to reseat the safety wire on the rear mount. Fitted gearbox dipstick and torque stay. 

- fitted the aircon pump (which has never been disconnected and thus is hopefully still good 

-aux belt and power steering lines

-diesel lines, all with proper fuel clips, new diesel filter. 

- recaptured and tamed the engine bay wiring loom from starter motor to alternator. Most of this lives down the front behind the radiators for ease* of access. Changed the alternator connector as it was different, soldered and everything. Took hours. 

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-coolant hoses. Coolant hoses everywhere. All with cleaned lubed jubbly clips. Changed the frosty morning cabin preheaters, an important task this time of year 

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-interrupted the wastegate feed pipe and replaced MAP sensor feed line as it was perished.

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- connected the turbo to the zorst.

and lastly and certainly not leastly, nor indeed surprisingly, a problem. Trying to put the engine stay brace thing on i just could not get the bolt to bite. Hmmm. 

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All lines up, dowels in good, all other bolts work and it’s definitely the correct bolt. And a sneaky longer bolt doesn’t help. A head scratcher.

An advantage of a cannibalising engine swap is you have something to look at while scratching your head. Let’s look at the back of the hole. 

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thats it there, that empty oblong. No threads in sight ..oh shit yes, I remember. There was a thing rattling around in there. Merde.

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there’s the thing. Arse. It’s a gearbox out jobby to slip that in. You know, I don’t think its that important. With everything else nipped up tight it all looks like it will stay put.

- dropped a strut as it was in the way of my driveshaft refitting efforts. Strut tops are proper fucked. Fitted drivers side shaft only as other side can wait until suspension bits turn up

So, no, not fixed yet, but definitely getting closer.

 

 

 

 

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Slowly slowly indeed. I’ve been busy, wife’s really really busy. Still, life is what happens to you whilst you’re busy making other plans. Man.

Big Boys Luvely Jubbly selection box turned up. 

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So I finally made the transmission cooler hoses up.

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All neat and tidy, pleased with that.

Nicked some mounts and hose clips off donkey, and have a very low profile manual boost controller. 

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All neat and tidy. Pleased with that too.

The cabin has been known to harbour a coolanty smell from time to time. Let’s have a look.

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Me leaking longtime. New matrix put in. Not entirely sure how it’s going to bleed out as it’s by my ankles with entrance and exit at the bottom corner, but the flow must be enough I guess.

 

 

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New* master cylinder arrived. I couldn’t use the one from donkey as that diesel estate Volvo had a first buyer who specified traction control. Belt, braces and binder twine will see us good, settle down Meredith. Enough is different that I just bought a bit that fits.

Servo has had a good couple of coats of blue roll stuck down with rust converter, which exposed a bit of bare metal when removed. What to quickly cover it with that will never come off? 

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that’ll do it. Not proud. 

The rear calipers both put up a fight, chiefly due to how seized the line into the caliper body was. So rather than leaving well alone I cut them off. 

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They are properly seized. So much so that winding them out with a big ratchet merely brought out the core. Arse. Previous nosings had already revealed that this was very much the better set of brakes between the two cars, so no donkey bits. (Newer calipers, very seized pistons).

Do some measuring and off to bisleys tools. Stand in the queue.

”m10 x 1.0 tap please if you by any chance have one on the shelf?”

”why yes sir of course. First pass, second pass or Greta Garbos knickers pass?”

” Um..... rethreading a brake caliper in the hands of a rank amateur pass?”

” It’s not a vag is it? They have m9 .... “

I do like an excuse to use a good tool shop. 

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And we all know how it works, I’ll probably never use that tap again!

A lot of cleaning and a bit of greasing and they join the pile of brakes to be fitted 

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It then occurred to me that there was no actual need to have the rear calipers off the car. Which is probably why they were so seized on. And that I now had to replace the rear hard lines as well now. Which had been just fine when it was inevitable. Pondered this for a bit. We live, we learn.

Happily, the front left line had been similarly seized, and was unavoidable, so time to learn hard line flanging. Cut some spare learner line off donkey and got a lesson on lines from Tom. All went well, didn’t need the practice bit. 

Cleared myself to a shady spot with all the gubbins and carefully made my first ever hard brake line.

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Got all the contours pretty good, straight bits looked as if they should be straight. Pleased with my work.

Except......

Except.

 I’d carefully and faithfully copied the scrap piece practice pipe, which was a shame. It was very hot today. 

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Have you ever looked at something and thought “nah”?

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“Hello? Parts for volvos? Please take all my money.”

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New new shiny shiny.

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That looks more promising. Popped them on, along with the brakes. Fed up with shit brakes.

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New new shiny shiny. New apec hose, pads and fitting kit. New, bigger pagid discs. New* Volvo T5 bigger* calipers.

New, 55 section toyo proxies finally fitted to my resprayed wheels 

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They fill the arch nicely but don’t look as if they will foul on anything. Max sidewall for max comfort. I’m hoping all this expense is going to make the Pre-pothole finch n brace a thing of the past.

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 New new shiny shiny. And beginning to look good.

 

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Not quite. No fluids in it at the mo. 

I am hoping that it is going to be dramatically different. I’ve never fitted new suspenders to a car before, but every time I’ve done it to a bike it’s been magical. Fingers crossed.

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Landlord has been round expressing displeasure at the aesthetic. Promised donkey would move on soon. 

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He does have a point.

Back suspension in.

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New hard lines made up all across the rear beam and up to the abs pump. I’m right fed up with brakes right now.

 

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21 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

She throbs once more! 

Nearly sir, nearly. Not, quite there yet.

19 hours ago, Minimad5 said:

Good man.

Love popping in to see progress.

Thanks. It’d be nice to have more progress to share. 😁

4 hours ago, Dirk Diggler said:

have never seen a skip truck used in that manner before 

Reversed up, arms down, chains hooked together through the rear doors, kick doors shut and winch. 2 mins start to finish I reckon, I nearly missed it. Impressive. Brutal.

2 hours ago, Lacquer Peel said:

I've just bought an S70 and like the way it throbs.
It taps a bit, I think TADT,S but I'm worried about the valves now.
Good work in this thread.

They do tap a bit. Mine was defo knocking for a bit first, so not a zero warning situation. A set of buckets was 50 quid from trodo.eu so perfectly affordable.

From what I’ve learned recently check the crank pulley on its inside face and the state of the fuel pump belt as they get forgotten.

Tbh it’ll probably be fine 😁

 

The Throbber is not there yet, and is providing an exercise in patience testing. Starting is shite, this was because, we thought, the timing was slightly wrong, so I’d get a prentice lesson on dialling it in like a big boy. This didn’t happen though as Tom discovered you can’t use a dial gauge on this pump. That really confused him as he was sure he did when it exploded originally. 

Then we played find out where it’s timed wrong by dan, but we (I) passed that test. Silver linings.

Discovered that there’s no power at the glow plugs and my lovingly crafted glow plug loom was shit. The relay is working though so the problem lies in between. We will bypass into a new loom later.

Tom was all happy that the starting was shit because of the glow plugs, declared it diagnosed and gave it a cheery little blip of throttle. It revved lovely, then stumbled and stalled. 

It is fair to say there was an air of disappointment in the workshop.

New glowplug connector ends are in the post, will get them wired in and then see where we are. 

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I might be massively wrong, but pretty sure you can DTI the pump. I'll dig out my AEL timing kit (same engine) as it deffo has a fitting to screw in the ass of the pump..mhhm.

 

Ooh if you need any bits, let me know as I'll be breaking my daily soon (once I've settled the other one)

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20 hours ago, Minimad5 said:

I might be massively wrong, but pretty sure you can DTI the pump. I'll dig out my AEL timing kit (same engine) as it deffo has a fitting to screw in the ass of the pump..mhhm.

 

Ooh if you need any bits, let me know as I'll be breaking my daily soon (once I've settled the other one)

Who knows. I’m hampered by having read too much on the internet about it and having bugger all base knowledge, which is a poor foundation to argue with Tom effectively. He’s a really very good mechanic*, there is usually more than one way to skin a cat, and even when it doesn’t work I’m still learning. One of the things I’m still trying to learn, despite being nearly old, is patience!

A picture of them may help jog Tom’s memory if you wouldn’t mind.

 

* who is doing all this off the clock around paying jobs 

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Today was a dial gauge day. My new adapter (vw part, for an audi engine in a Scandinavian car) had arrived and I was confident in the few bits of knowledge I had acquired. So let’s try again.

first step, work out how to dial gauge. Handily, I have a spare pump. Being able to practice in comfort is invaluable 

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sufficiently practised, onto the car.

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well snug down there. Aiming for .55 lift at TDC. Apparently. 

Lashed up a very effective pump locking timing tool, that wood wedge gives nice steady adjustment, so much so it’s been put away with the tools for next time.

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Spent a while working out how to actually set it all so it didn’t walk as tensioners were done (do the camshaft pulley last is my conclusion). Having got that satisfactory, I popped on a few pipes and cleared the bay of spanners, wacked on the battery and cranked it. Nothing. No, not nothing, shit loads of diesel. Ah.

 I popped the plug back in the fuel pump where the adapter had been, and tried again.

And It only bloody brum brummed. 

And then It did 2 laps of the estate under its own power (before I hoofed it and it blew the lashed on inlet hose. Schmooky. )That’s big news in this house.

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      That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
       
      Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
       
      I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
       
      Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
       
      As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
       
      After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
      A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
       
      That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
       
      WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
      Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it". 
       
      LIFESAVER!!!
       

       
      Sticky slider syndrome ^
       

       
      Fully padded up ^
       
      I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.
       

       

       
      There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
       
      Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...
       

       
      I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
      Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off 
       

       
      Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.
       

       
      Looks smart yo!
       
      Then it got dark...
       

       
      I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
       
      So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard. 
       
      So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.
    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
       
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
       
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
       
    • By snagglepuss
      Didn't bother to do a collection thread as was a 30min drive so fairly boring.
       
      Yesterday I won this
       

       
      Which is effectively going to replace the civic and the xantia.
       

       
      Picked car from a bodywork guy in foreign lands (Yorkshire).
       
      First thoughts are that I think it has been sitting for a while but started straight up. Apart from service bits and potentially a cambelt everything seems to be good with it. Comes pre dented.
       
      Current is differently abled tax so that will need to be changed.
       
      Windscreen has small crack in passenger side.
       
      Runs really cold, this is after 30 miles of motorway

       
      Mind you it honks. Properly honks. Not as much as the focus I got from Shadow but not far off.
       

       
      List of jobs
       
      Oil change
      Spark plugs
      Air filter
      Thermostat
      Rear boot struts
      Front discs and pads
      Cam belt plus bits
      Ball joints
      Drop links
      Rear anti roll bar bushes
      Stereo code
      Windscreen crack
      Swimming pool emptied from boot wheel well
      Seal rear light clusters
       
      And a big does of cleaning
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