Jump to content
dome

Domes shonky autos-Octavia on the road, working through the issues...

Recommended Posts

 

I used this stuff to good results.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/zep-commercial-driveway-concrete-masonry-cleaner-concentrate-5ltr/6837f

The other thing that works really well but takes time is a blowtorch straight onto the stains-it burns them right off.

It didn't seem to drop any oil last night which is a bonus. However,  due to me leaving the interior lights on it also wouldn't start this morning. I had to slum it in the S4 today. Which is getting really noisy from the back end. I need to give it a proper prod.

I suspect the Octavias battery is passed it's best, I'll get it tested. I ordered up a parking sensor for the rear after trying the trusted "listen for the tick" technique-one of them is dead. Good thing is with it being the Scout the sensor isn't colour coded. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, bigfella2 said:

I downloaded mine maybe two or three years back, but my uncles Altea wasn't on that drop down list when I needed it lately. But didn't download a recent version. Maybe it gets updated every so often.

Nah, it says on the download page for VCDS-lite that it's not compatible with CANBUS cars. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, good old mission creep. I decided to check out the non working cruise control last night, starting with the clutch and brake switches. So, off came some trim to get access. It was filthy. This happened.

Dishwasher.jpg.f8d4517167cc14f99c5f091824473a1a.jpg

I also removed the centre console to fix a couple of things, it wouldn't fit in the dishwasher though... The aux input had fell out of it's mount so I refitted this, I also fixed the little blind that slides up and down with the handbrake-it had broken. Little victories and all that.

Oh, the cruise control, I hear no-one ask? No switches on the brake or clutch lever in the cabin, these are on the master cylinders it appears. Arses

Oil leak wise there's still a drop coming from the RHS of the engine bay which I'll need to have a look at. I still get the occasional whiff of oil too when I come to a standstill. The oil feed on the turbo seems dry as does the return. More prodding required. 

The EML has been on when I stat it up with an error code for exhaust gas pressure. These sensors commonly fail but a check on the connector(one of the many I'd removed) and it clicked home. The light stayed out the next time I started it. We'll see if it stays out. The traction control light is now on all the time though, it failed it's MOT for this last year. Diagnostics required...

With regards to the diagnostics thing I've just invested £15 in a Carista app and bluetooth dongle which apparently can read fault codes from all the controllers, not just the engine like torque. Worth a punt. 

My £6 parking sensor arrived, I'll get that fired on too and hopefully that'll fix the sensors. All being well it should get a couple of hundred miles put onto it this weekend. 

Whew. I need a lie down!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use one like this from AliExpress, it wasn't too bad to set up and will happily talk to my CANBUS B6 Pisshat https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000149591559.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.36fb489cPiRWXd&algo_pvid=5c36e816-6187-4114-9f7d-3211db3b18d5&algo_expid=5c36e816-6187-4114-9f7d-3211db3b18d5-1&btsid=c75b8db9-a39e-491a-8595-c928cd087145&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_60

Obviously it'll be riddled with computer aids so use it on a throwaway laptop. You're welcome to borrow mine but I'm the wrong end of the country!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Tepper said:

I use one like this from AliExpress, it wasn't too bad to set up and will happily talk to my CANBUS B6 Pisshat https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000149591559.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.36fb489cPiRWXd&algo_pvid=5c36e816-6187-4114-9f7d-3211db3b18d5&algo_expid=5c36e816-6187-4114-9f7d-3211db3b18d5-1&btsid=c75b8db9-a39e-491a-8595-c928cd087145&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_60

Obviously it'll be riddled with computer aids so use it on a throwaway laptop. You're welcome to borrow mine but I'm the wrong end of the country!

 

What’s the chat with this software? Is it terrible or does it actually work?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Put 300 miles on this today with no trouble at all

I know, I know, it's a modern so it should be able to do that no trouble. Still, it's always nerve wracking when something arrives at your door fucked and on a trailer.

Average was an indicated 50 mpg, that is until my good lady got a shot. She's now driven it faster than I have...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/7/2019 at 7:23 PM, Fraz said:

What’s the chat with this software? Is it terrible or does it actually work?

It's a cracked full version of VCDS and so far seems to be identical to the real thing, I've done some coding with it as well as just the normal diagnostic stuff and it worked OK. I think I have version 18.2, not sure how good any of the other cables/versions are but AliExpress are pretty good on refunds if it turns out to be shit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Carista dongle arrived today so I had a quick play with it. There was a mass of fault codes related to the fucked battery so I cleared them and got these

Engine:
P0568 - Cruise Control Switch (E45), Implausible Signal
P1698 - Please Check DTC Memory of Steering Wheel Electronics

ABS:
00493 - ESP-Sensor Unit (G419)

Central electronics:
00924 - Relays for headlamp wash/wipe system (J39)

Steering wheel:
00895 - Cruise Control Switch (E45)

Heater & air conditioning:
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)

The app is good for reading all the modules on the car for codes where torque can just read the engine ECU.

I also set some things like opening all doors with the remote on the first press of the fob instead of just the drivers door. It'll do loads of nifty things like that.

What it won't do like vcds is code in new modules and the likes of that. Worth the £16 for the dongle though with a months software subscription. It's £40 for a years subscription after that.

The main one causing worry is the esp one as that'll fail the MOT. On some vag stuff it's a sensor under the seats but mine doesn't seem to have one there so it's part of the abs module.

Great. Remind me why I went modern again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Tepper said:

It's a cracked full version of VCDS and so far seems to be identical to the real thing, I've done some coding with it as well as just the normal diagnostic stuff and it worked OK. I think I have version 18.2, not sure how good any of the other cables/versions are but AliExpress are pretty good on refunds if it turns out to be shit.

Smashing - Ill try that for £21ish 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


      It really looks that good. There is a reason for this: its previous owner was an old lady who loved the thing so much so she made every effort to keep it in good shape. It originally came from Fleet in the GU postcode which suggests to me it was bought by the present dealer at auction, hence arriving down here in Kent. Before seeing the car I checked its MOT history and its only fails were thanks to broken stoplights, which shows me that it was very well cared for. I suppose an example of this was that on the last MOT, an advisory was a corroded rear silencer. The silencer on the car when I saw it was new. Methinks the lady wanted to keep it as good as possible. It was kept in a garage and so all the bumpers and black trim are very black and the tyres are in very good condition. Spare never used! Also included a free Dettol first aid kit from 1997.
      This car has 15000 genuine miles on the clock. We clocked over 15000 during the test drive! The lady owner really only trundled around her village in it and the MOT shows that it only did some meagre miles between tests. This, of course, came at a price. We saw a cherry red Micra from 2002 at the same dealer. Paint was shoddy and when they washed it the boot had massive sections of bare metal and it wasn't very happy. This car, however, is in fabulous condition and there was no contest between the two cars- it really is that good, inside and out. Immaculate interior, driver's airbag, cassette player... all there and all functioning (apart from cassette thanks to new battery and failed display). This meant that I bought it for £1600, £100 over what was my uppermost limit, but I knew I wouldn't see another like this that was in as good shape for a fair while. It was priced very ambitiously, at £1990, so I'm content in the fact I managed to slash a few hundred off the price. There wasn't that much paperwork though. All the dealership received was the logbook with 3 service stamps from 1998, 1999 and 2000, the radio key pass, a National Trust sticker, and the original paperwork holder. I suspect the old lady died and had her car auctioned, and the massive file of paperwork is now someone's egg carton, along will everything else she owned.

      As always, this car isn't exactly in showroom condition. While the inside is great and the floor is solid, and the underseal is in great shape, the not undersealed parts need a small looking at. Mainly the rear of the driver's side sill. It's really the only bubbling on the car. I suspect a well aimed stonechip managed to fester over the wintery salted roads, making it rust even more. It's around the size of a 5p piece, and will give me the opportunity to spray the insides of the sill with some chain oil to prevent any further corrosion. Behind the fuel tank there are a few rusty joints- places where the spraygun cannot get paint onto- which some Vactan and Dynax should put to rights. Alternator belt looks original because of the cracking and Nissan badges and will need doing soon as well as the front plate. As much as I like the 90's font and original dealer surround, the dishevelled R and general water ingress is a persistant MOT advisory. It could be the MOT station being strict (and most likely is considering there's a Saxo down the road with far worse blackening), however for the sake of peace of mind and all that, I'll get a new one made. The rear has already been replaced indicating this has happened before.
      All in all, I think this is a nice plucky motor. I'll have it by the end of the week; just got to sort out tax, insurance, and it's going to have an MOT. As part of the deal it's getting the MOT and an oil and filter change which will be something ticked off the list. It has some love scratches and chips here and there, but it drives well, is stiff and controllable, and should make out to be a nice summer project!
    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.


      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.

       






      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...









      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.







      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...
    • By TripleRich
      Hi all, new to the forum.  Thought you might be interested in what I've got myself into
      I'd been after my first classic car for a while.  If it's big and made in the 70s I'm interested.  Looked at few things like P6s, Zodiacs, Victors, SD1s and various other things.  Problem was I didn't want to spend a boatload of money on something that looked alright but underneath was actually a total heap.  The solution was to buy a complete heap in the first place and spend the money fixing it.
      So in January I went ahead and bought this from a colleague at work who was moving away and needed to get shot of it.

      It's a part finished restoration (I prefer not started) and it needs a whole load of help if it's going to stand any chance of using a road again.
      Pros
      It's right up my street.  Granada Coupes are quite odd and certainly stand out from the norm.
      It still has the original engine, box, interior and most trim.
      It came with loads of panels I need to repair it (mostly original Ford stock).
      It came with so many spares I could probably build a few Granadas and still have stuff left over.
      It was cheap.
      Cons
      Most of the front end has been cut off.
      Most of the body structure is quite rotten.
      It's going to take me ages.
      I work at a restoration company and my boss kindly allows me to keep the car there.  So I've got access to all the gear I need to restore it.  I've been busy on the car for a while now so will post more pics over the coming days.
      Cheers 
    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
       
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
       
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
       
×
×
  • Create New...