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My 1973 Cadillac, Huggy Bear


eddyramrod

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I've pulled enough bodges out of my cars over the past few years and spent ages welding them up and losing motivation whilst chasing a finish in happy with.  Nothing worse than digging away at some thing you've recently bought and finding the true horrors beneath that someone's put in before me.

 

But you already own it, so . . . 

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13 hours ago, Kowalski said:

Expanding foam in the holes. When it's dried, slice off to the right (ish) shape. Quick skim or two of filler. Job done.

Please God no.

If some poor fucker ever wants to actually weld it in the future then they will have a nightmare removing the stuff or a fire when they start welding.

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15 hours ago, Andyrew said:

I've pulled enough bodges out of my cars over the past few years and spent ages welding them up and losing motivation whilst chasing a finish in happy with.  Nothing worse than digging away at some thing you've recently bought and finding the true horrors beneath that someone's put in before me.

 

But you already own it, so . . . 

Screenshot_20200702-220533.jpg.c6e2e2128c155121f8e9f9dbd8f0bd8a.jpg

Screenshot_20200702-220650.thumb.jpg.989814ed01b3ab127ee3759710935d4b.jpg

 

 

 

Screenshot_20200702-220455.jpg.dcf399c5e7af88b79bfccc999e95de2b.jpg

 

 

I have a couple of copies of the AA Book of the Car from the 70s. There is a two page spread on how to ‘fix’ sills with chicken wire and filler. Apparently the key is to not screw the chicken wire up too much so it can expand and grip the remaining rot, sorry, remaining metal.

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58 minutes ago, Tamworthbay said:

I have a couple of copies of the AA Book of the Car from the 70s. There is a two page spread on how to ‘fix’ sills with chicken wire and filler. Apparently the key is to not screw the chicken wire up too much so it can expand and grip the remaining rot, sorry, remaining metal.

Good tip, cheers. Will try that next time. 

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The Reader's Digest DIY manual advice from 1972...

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It's little wonder so many old cars went from half decent looking to scrap in no time at all when the repair method of the time was to trap as much moisture against the remaining metalwork as possible!

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1 minute ago, captain_70s said:

The Reader's Digest DIY manual advice from 1972...

107001637_3139557252825332_2099369860322020997_n.thumb.jpg.0b3299820a03237ec913bc6dc160e7a7.jpg

107388387_746424536120175_2378832130230396183_n.thumb.jpg.25c57cd9d6e19aac4b963c427bcb37d4.jpg

It's little wonder so many old cars went from half decent looking to scrap in no time at all when the repair method of the time was to trap as much moisture against the remaining metalwork as possible!

Better than my AA one which has an almost identical repair needed but they  just twat it in a bit a hammer and apply liberal amounts of wob.

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1 hour ago, Tamworthbay said:

Better than my AA one which has an almost identical repair needed but they  just twat it in a bit a hammer and apply liberal amounts of wob.

The RD approach of "make sure that the damaged area is not in a part that makes a contribution to the car's structural strength" is also preferable to the AA method of "trowel the sill of your monocoque bodyshell full of wob".

Having a separate chassis à la Huggy does help in that regard.  Sills made of P40 are no longer a potential safety hazard.

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2 hours ago, Tenmil Socket said:

IIRC - In the older Haynes manuals the only colour pages were the spark plug condition page and the bodywork page. I think it was a red Cortina?

fuck how far do you go back :D in the newer ones its a red pug 205

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Rear wing of a dark red Mk 2 Escort and later on a front corner of a lighter red Chrysler Sunbeam, looking at a couple of HBOLs picked at random. 

The Escort sequence is only about fixing a small dent, there’s no rust in evidence and the car looks very new.

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