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Gooner II V6 - Reliable motoring at its finest*


SiC

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I did a quick error code scan.

 

Engine

P1011 - Vehicle Speed Sensor

 

ABS

Pressure sensor circuit

Chassis wear compensation function inhibited

 

EPB

No automatic transmisson multiplex signal; CAN connection fault

Multiplexed network

No UCH multiplex signal; CAN connection fault(Passenger compartment central unit

No ABS/ESP mutilplex signal

No injection multiplex signal

Low battery voltage

Insufficient braking detected; the ECU has detected vehicle movement with parking brake on

 

Dashboard

Battery voltage

 

Climate Control

No fault codes

 

Gearbox

160146 - Unknown

 

Airbags

Computer supply voltage

 

UCH (Body Computer)

Engine start button

Card

Childproof lock circuit

238 - Unknown

Indicator light control circuit

Central door locking circuit supply

357 - Unknown

Front left-hand door optical sensor circuit

Front left-hand wheel valve sensor

Front right-hand wheel valve sensor

Rear right hand wheel valve sensor

Rear left hand wheel valve sensor

Valve signal receiver

Vehicle speed information

Front left-hand wheel valve sensor

Front right-hand wheel valve sensor

Rear right hand wheel valve sensor

Rear left hand wheel valve sensor

 

Parking assistance

Rear left parking aid sensor

 

Tyre pressure monitoring

Front left-hand wheel valve sensor

Front right-hand wheel valve sensor

Rear right hand wheel valve sensor

Rear left hand wheel valve sensor

Valve signal receiver

Valve signal receiver

Just a few codes then! :D

However to be fair, a lot are probably just from the battery going flat.

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The snagging list is getting a bit bigger:

  • ABS module needs replacing.
  • Tyre Pressure Sensor antenna fixing or just disabling.
  • Wheel vibration - hopefully just need wheel balancing.
  • Thermostat appears to be sticking/duff, as stats around middle in traffic and drops on the motorway at speed.
  • Rear parking sensor replacing.
  • Temperature Sensor Fan rattles (really annoying!) - there is a tiny little fan that sucks air over the temperature sensor.
  • Fusty smell - pollen filter+air con bomb hopefully will kill this.
  • Headlight washer doesn't pop up - not a concern yet, but will be a MOT failure.
  • Steering wheel lock - doesn't really engage! Turn the wheel, it locks, turn the wheel the other way it comes off. Not bothered about this, unless the MOT tester picks it up...
  • Battery - seems alright at the moment, however this can cause things to really fritz out. As its been sitting around for 6 months or so, it can't be in a great state.
  • Clean/check sunroof drain tubes. More of a preventative measure, so the UCH doesn't get a soaking.
  • Gearbox oil change/flush. Changes gear fine, pretty smooth, but not as smooth as I think it should be. Also never been changed (sealed for life), so probably a good idea to get it done
  • Cambelt - This is the big one (~£500). I can't find anything in the history to say that it's been changed. However it has Renault history for the first 5 years, so may only be due - I need to check with Renault.
So plenty of things to get on with!
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Some maintenance and a couple of parts you can hopefully liberate from the bay or a scrappy. Not too bad really.

 

Worrying number of codes but a new battery would probably take care of quite a number of those as mentioned. I think for the money you have done well!

 

Isn't there something odd about the gearbox on these? I think you fill to a point on the dipstick rather than to the top of the filler hole or else the boxes lunches itself (or is that only on the Manuals?)

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Nah different box. This is a AW55-50 (Renault code SU1) - used on Volvo/Ford/GM/Vauxhall/Saab/others. Yours is a DP0 (PSA + Reno design - AJ4 for PSA) - only been used on French cars.

 

The AW55 is very fussy on oil (JWS3309 - expensive) and like Parky says, fussy on quantities. The recommended way is to measure out the oil removed and replace with the same amount. To check level, you need to check temp on diag tool - needs to be 75C +/- 1C and then the hatched area on the dipstick!

 

The DP0 can take bog standard Dextron III, and the drain hole has a bolt and a inner level tube. Remove it completely to drain, put inner bit back in and then top up till it overflows out the drain hole again. No dipstick at all on these though.

 

According to the YouTube mechanics in America, as long as the fluid is vaugely red+brown it shouldn't kill them with a change. If it's grey, then its got friction material in and the box is already dieing. Changing the fluid on this will loose the friction material out of the fluid and finish the box off. Apparently

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Does it have a talking dash, and how long does it go on at you for when you start it?!

Talking dash was discontinued in around 2003. I guess too many people got fed up of the car reminding them of all the problems.

 

This does have voice recognition, so I guess that gives an excuse to shout at the car!!

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Check the wiring into the epb unit - I've seen a few scenically where the wiring rubs and goes green . May explain all the lost comms codes if a battery swap doesn't

I did a code erase and most of the loss of comms + battery codes seemed to have cleared up. Handily on the lag 2, Renault put the emergency EPB release handle in the arm rest. I guess it was the easiest place for them to retrofit it to the chassis, through where originally the handbrake cables went.

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Yesterday was a bit of a bonding session with me and the car.

 

Went out for a run in the morning with the other half driving. I think she really quite likes it, which is a good start. However she did moan a fair bit about the aircon smell and some rubbish about how it was giving her a headache. So I decided to do a quick run to Euro Car Parts for a new pollen filter and the cheapest aircon cleaner they had (I'll def take up on your offer Kiltox on a proper defogging in it).

 

First step, remove old pollen filter...

post-20071-0-03041400-1461595990_thumb.jpg

Hmm looks like someone has been in here before.  :blink:

 

Renault say "unclip it". Helpful when there are no visible clips. After a bit of wrestling and brute force, I persuaded the cover to come off.

post-20071-0-71417600-1461596706_thumb.jpg

 

Filter itself wasn't actually that bad.

post-20071-0-28053700-1461596743_thumb.jpg

 

Removed the old filter, put the cover back on and then stuck the aircon cleaner in with the fans on blowing. 10 minutes later, opened up the car again and stuck the new filter in.

 

Next job was to fix a wurring noisy noise coming from the rear view mirror. Behind the plastic surround is a little fan that sucks air over a humidity and temperature sensor for the climate control. The fan is a little brushless type motor, just like what you get on PCs. I gave it a blast of compressed air to remove all the dust, but the noise remained. Damn.

 

Time to pull it apart then!

post-20071-0-08641000-1461595412_thumb.jpg

 

The impeller has a small brass bush that the shaft spins on - very much like a fish tank pump impeller. I gave the shaft and bush a quick blast of PTFE bike spray, which seemed to shut it up.

 

Next job was to investigate a bit further on the lack of GPS signal on the SatNav. This appears to either be the Sharkfin antenna on the roof failing, or sometimes the GPS antenna connector coming loose. Behind the side panel of the boot is the join between the roof antenna and a loom back to the satnav in the centre console. Pulled the side trim off, to find it still connected. Bummer.

 

Looks like I'll need a new antenna then.

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Final task of the day (and main bonding exercise) was to give the outside a good clean.

post-20071-0-35687700-1461597730_thumb.jpg

post-20071-0-94846000-1461597716_thumb.jpg

I reckon it has come up pretty well! What do you guys think?

 

I had reservations from the pictures on eBay and AutoTrader with the colour at first, however in person it looks far nicer and I really like it. Body work is in very good condition. A few tiny scuffs that you really have to look for to find and a few scratches on the bootlid, where I guess a handbag has been.

 

I have decided that something needs doing about that wood trim though...

post-20071-0-16731300-1461597733_thumb.jpg

 

Obligatory engine shot. Not actually had a proper root around and nose under the bonnet yet. Pretty tightly crammed in there, but not as bad as you might imagine though.

post-20071-0-90441300-1461597735_thumb.jpg

 

 

Took it for a good blast to dry the brakes off. First time I've properly hooned it. Gearbox is def a bit on the slow side changing and between 3rd and 4th, it has a good think about the 4.5k rpm mark. When I got back I had a check of the gearbag dipstick and the fluid is very much a brown colour. :(

 

So gearbox fluid change then! Earliest I could get it booked in with a local garage is 5th May. I have considered doing it myself, but as its a fairly critical job, I really don't want to bugger it up and kill the box unnecessarily. Just need to source some JWS 3309 oil now.

 

Going to baby it around until then, to try and reduce wear on it further. Not sure if its the adaptations or just me, but it does feel a bit harsher after me hooning it yesterday. :?

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So gearbox fluid change then! Earliest I could get it booked in with a local garage is 5th May. I have considered doing it myself, but as its a fairly critical job, I really don't want to bugger it up and kill the box unnecessarily. Just need to source some JWS 3309 oil now.

 

Unless the garage is run by a Gooner enthusiast, the person actually doing the fluid change is likely to be (i) still in their teens (ii) ham-fisted (iii) blissfully unaware of the Renault-approved fluid change ritual and (iv) not at all interested in doing a good job.

 

If I were you, I'd DIY it exactly because it's a critical job !

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Agreed, quite like the wood.

 

Hats off to you for the Gooner enthusiasm.  

 

Changing the gearbox oil isn't that hard surely?   A careful measurement technique will set your mind at rest that you have replaced the correct amount which is the critical thing.

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Sitting in the doctors, looking out of the window with this view...

 

post-20071-146160288185_thumb.jpg

 

I was thinking, looking at the two cars its between are perfect autoshite material... why my Laguna on AutoShite? It's a total fraud that it's on here. No way does this look or feel like a sub 1k car.

 

Upon approaching it and trying the handle, the handsfree locking system reminded me why and did nothing. I fumbled in my pocket for the keycard to use the backup buttons on the keycard and a couple of presses of the unlock button, it eventually decided that it did want to unlock itself today.

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Scrubbed up nice.

 

I'm down the dual carriage way this eve, giving the horses plenty of wip and up in the distance I can see brake light activity and lane changing to reveal a black car n/s lane with hazards on, as I approach it is only an 05 plate Gooner on a towrope behind a Seat...........

 

I wonder if he kept that rope in with the spare

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Unless the garage is run by a Gooner enthusiast, the person actually doing the fluid change is likely to be (i) still in their teens (ii) ham-fisted (iii) blissfully unaware of the Renault-approved fluid change ritual and (iv) not at all interested in doing a good job.

 

If I were you, I'd DIY it exactly because it's a critical job !

It's a job that is certainly within my skill level mechanically. However when I'm involved with fluids I usually end up with them everywhere, except the place they are supposed to be! If I loose any oil when draining, then I could be in a right pickle trying to workout how much more to put back in.

 

The guys I use are a small 3 man local garage that I trust, know well and have been using for years. They know that they usually get the jobs I hate/too lazy to do. :mrgreen:

 

At £50 p/h (or cash), they're cheap enough to make it too easy to be lazy on such things...

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I might have a crack at a fluid change on the blue Gooner, just cos I've never done it before. It lokos pretty straightforward - seemingly you do an 'oil change' like on an engine and fill its sump pan to the right level with fresh fluid. Then disconnect the return pipe off the oil cooler and run it at idle for a while, allowing it to pump the fluid through all the internal gubbins and out into a tub. You then replace what's come out with the same amount of fresh stuff. Something like that anyway.

 

Yours looks FLIPPIN SWEET, I say keep the fake wood too, its a great feature I reckon!!!! Specially with the funny little squares set into it.

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The snagging list is getting a bit bigger:

 

  • Steering wheel lock - doesn't really engage! Turn the wheel, it locks, turn the wheel the other way it comes off. Not bothered about this, unless the MOT tester picks it up...

 

 

 

So plenty of things to get on with!

 

 

I had fail on my OH's megane for this:

 
  • Reason(s) for failure

    Steering lock fails to engage (2.1.4b)

I left it connected to stop any fault codes but physically disabled it, passed with an advisory

 

Here's some info on it:

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_210.htm

 

"It is acceptable for a steering lock to be removed if it has been replaced with another immobilisation device." So the chip in your key is the immobilsation device.

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