Ghosty Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Ha, eat that, previous seller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 This looks flippin ace. Great work man!!!! I think you have done pretty well, your long wait has paid off SiC SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 I did a quick error code scan. Engine P1011 - Vehicle Speed Sensor ABS Pressure sensor circuit Chassis wear compensation function inhibited EPB No automatic transmisson multiplex signal; CAN connection fault Multiplexed network No UCH multiplex signal; CAN connection fault(Passenger compartment central unit No ABS/ESP mutilplex signal No injection multiplex signal Low battery voltage Insufficient braking detected; the ECU has detected vehicle movement with parking brake on Dashboard Battery voltage Climate Control No fault codes Gearbox 160146 - Unknown Airbags Computer supply voltage UCH (Body Computer) Engine start button Card Childproof lock circuit 238 - Unknown Indicator light control circuit Central door locking circuit supply 357 - Unknown Front left-hand door optical sensor circuit Front left-hand wheel valve sensor Front right-hand wheel valve sensor Rear right hand wheel valve sensor Rear left hand wheel valve sensor Valve signal receiver Vehicle speed information Front left-hand wheel valve sensor Front right-hand wheel valve sensor Rear right hand wheel valve sensor Rear left hand wheel valve sensor Parking assistance Rear left parking aid sensor Tyre pressure monitoring Front left-hand wheel valve sensor Front right-hand wheel valve sensor Rear right hand wheel valve sensor Rear left hand wheel valve sensor Valve signal receiver Valve signal receiver Just a few codes then! However to be fair, a lot are probably just from the battery going flat. trigger, nacho man, Kiltox and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Wow!! They really don't like flat batteries though do they - really must buy a new one for the Scenic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 The snagging list is getting a bit bigger:ABS module needs replacing.Tyre Pressure Sensor antenna fixing or just disabling.Wheel vibration - hopefully just need wheel balancing.Thermostat appears to be sticking/duff, as stats around middle in traffic and drops on the motorway at speed. Rear parking sensor replacing.Temperature Sensor Fan rattles (really annoying!) - there is a tiny little fan that sucks air over the temperature sensor.Fusty smell - pollen filter+air con bomb hopefully will kill this.Headlight washer doesn't pop up - not a concern yet, but will be a MOT failure.Steering wheel lock - doesn't really engage! Turn the wheel, it locks, turn the wheel the other way it comes off. Not bothered about this, unless the MOT tester picks it up...Battery - seems alright at the moment, however this can cause things to really fritz out. As its been sitting around for 6 months or so, it can't be in a great state.Clean/check sunroof drain tubes. More of a preventative measure, so the UCH doesn't get a soaking.Gearbox oil change/flush. Changes gear fine, pretty smooth, but not as smooth as I think it should be. Also never been changed (sealed for life), so probably a good idea to get it doneCambelt - This is the big one (~£500). I can't find anything in the history to say that it's been changed. However it has Renault history for the first 5 years, so may only be due - I need to check with Renault.So plenty of things to get on with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Don't waste money on one of those aerosol air con bombs, come and see me with a new pollen filter in the boot and we will sort it properly with my fogger which can deodorise it a lot better oldcars, mercedade, SiC and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Whata your problem, the climate control works fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Some maintenance and a couple of parts you can hopefully liberate from the bay or a scrappy. Not too bad really. Worrying number of codes but a new battery would probably take care of quite a number of those as mentioned. I think for the money you have done well! Isn't there something odd about the gearbox on these? I think you fill to a point on the dipstick rather than to the top of the filler hole or else the boxes lunches itself (or is that only on the Manuals?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Is it the same box as my scenic? Starting to think it wants a fluid change but I'm terrified of killing it since it's done so well! costadelglosta 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Nah different box. This is a AW55-50 (Renault code SU1) - used on Volvo/Ford/GM/Vauxhall/Saab/others. Yours is a DP0 (PSA + Reno design - AJ4 for PSA) - only been used on French cars. The AW55 is very fussy on oil (JWS3309 - expensive) and like Parky says, fussy on quantities. The recommended way is to measure out the oil removed and replace with the same amount. To check level, you need to check temp on diag tool - needs to be 75C +/- 1C and then the hatched area on the dipstick! The DP0 can take bog standard Dextron III, and the drain hole has a bolt and a inner level tube. Remove it completely to drain, put inner bit back in and then top up till it overflows out the drain hole again. No dipstick at all on these though. According to the YouTube mechanics in America, as long as the fluid is vaugely red+brown it shouldn't kill them with a change. If it's grey, then its got friction material in and the box is already dieing. Changing the fluid on this will loose the friction material out of the fluid and finish the box off. Apparently Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mouseflakes Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Essential fuel to stop me suffering a FTP. If you're ever in Temple Meads train station in Bristol, check out Harts Bakery, just outside the station. Totally Gert lush food. IMG_20160423_111931.jpg Surely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 I was waiting to see if anyone would do that! mouseflakes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghosty Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Does it have a talking dash, and how long does it go on at you for when you start it?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Check the wiring into the epb unit - I've seen a few scenically where the wiring rubs and goes green . May explain all the lost comms codes if a battery swap doesn't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 Does it have a talking dash, and how long does it go on at you for when you start it?!Talking dash was discontinued in around 2003. I guess too many people got fed up of the car reminding them of all the problems. This does have voice recognition, so I guess that gives an excuse to shout at the car!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 Check the wiring into the epb unit - I've seen a few scenically where the wiring rubs and goes green . May explain all the lost comms codes if a battery swap doesn'tI did a code erase and most of the loss of comms + battery codes seemed to have cleared up. Handily on the lag 2, Renault put the emergency EPB release handle in the arm rest. I guess it was the easiest place for them to retrofit it to the chassis, through where originally the handbrake cables went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 LOL 1461434649590.jpg In the side pocket there is also an AA card and a pack of paracetamol.Is the rope an option extra with a gooner or included in the care package Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Yesterday was a bit of a bonding session with me and the car. Went out for a run in the morning with the other half driving. I think she really quite likes it, which is a good start. However she did moan a fair bit about the aircon smell and some rubbish about how it was giving her a headache. So I decided to do a quick run to Euro Car Parts for a new pollen filter and the cheapest aircon cleaner they had (I'll def take up on your offer Kiltox on a proper defogging in it). First step, remove old pollen filter... Hmm looks like someone has been in here before. Renault say "unclip it". Helpful when there are no visible clips. After a bit of wrestling and brute force, I persuaded the cover to come off. Filter itself wasn't actually that bad. Removed the old filter, put the cover back on and then stuck the aircon cleaner in with the fans on blowing. 10 minutes later, opened up the car again and stuck the new filter in. Next job was to fix a wurring noisy noise coming from the rear view mirror. Behind the plastic surround is a little fan that sucks air over a humidity and temperature sensor for the climate control. The fan is a little brushless type motor, just like what you get on PCs. I gave it a blast of compressed air to remove all the dust, but the noise remained. Damn. Time to pull it apart then! The impeller has a small brass bush that the shaft spins on - very much like a fish tank pump impeller. I gave the shaft and bush a quick blast of PTFE bike spray, which seemed to shut it up. Next job was to investigate a bit further on the lack of GPS signal on the SatNav. This appears to either be the Sharkfin antenna on the roof failing, or sometimes the GPS antenna connector coming loose. Behind the side panel of the boot is the join between the roof antenna and a loom back to the satnav in the centre console. Pulled the side trim off, to find it still connected. Bummer. Looks like I'll need a new antenna then. Jim Bergerac, Conrad D. Conelrad, Kiltox and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Final task of the day (and main bonding exercise) was to give the outside a good clean. I reckon it has come up pretty well! What do you guys think? I had reservations from the pictures on eBay and AutoTrader with the colour at first, however in person it looks far nicer and I really like it. Body work is in very good condition. A few tiny scuffs that you really have to look for to find and a few scratches on the bootlid, where I guess a handbag has been. I have decided that something needs doing about that wood trim though... Obligatory engine shot. Not actually had a proper root around and nose under the bonnet yet. Pretty tightly crammed in there, but not as bad as you might imagine though. Took it for a good blast to dry the brakes off. First time I've properly hooned it. Gearbox is def a bit on the slow side changing and between 3rd and 4th, it has a good think about the 4.5k rpm mark. When I got back I had a check of the gearbag dipstick and the fluid is very much a brown colour. So gearbox fluid change then! Earliest I could get it booked in with a local garage is 5th May. I have considered doing it myself, but as its a fairly critical job, I really don't want to bugger it up and kill the box unnecessarily. Just need to source some JWS 3309 oil now. Going to baby it around until then, to try and reduce wear on it further. Not sure if its the adaptations or just me, but it does feel a bit harsher after me hooning it yesterday. Cavcraft, Jim Bergerac, wuvvum and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigmund Fraud Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 So gearbox fluid change then! Earliest I could get it booked in with a local garage is 5th May. I have considered doing it myself, but as its a fairly critical job, I really don't want to bugger it up and kill the box unnecessarily. Just need to source some JWS 3309 oil now. Unless the garage is run by a Gooner enthusiast, the person actually doing the fluid change is likely to be (i) still in their teens (ii) ham-fisted (iii) blissfully unaware of the Renault-approved fluid change ritual and (iv) not at all interested in doing a good job. If I were you, I'd DIY it exactly because it's a critical job ! mercedade and Lacquer Peel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Please step away from the fake wood, and leave it as it is, this is a public service announcement, please step away........................... privatewire 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cort1977 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Agreed, quite like the wood. Hats off to you for the Gooner enthusiasm. Changing the gearbox oil isn't that hard surely? A careful measurement technique will set your mind at rest that you have replaced the correct amount which is the critical thing. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Sitting in the doctors, looking out of the window with this view... I was thinking, looking at the two cars its between are perfect autoshite material... why my Laguna on AutoShite? It's a total fraud that it's on here. No way does this look or feel like a sub 1k car. Upon approaching it and trying the handle, the handsfree locking system reminded me why and did nothing. I fumbled in my pocket for the keycard to use the backup buttons on the keycard and a couple of presses of the unlock button, it eventually decided that it did want to unlock itself today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/308-transmissions/141288-laguna-ii-v6-24v-how-change-gearbox-oil.html Mad as box of FROGS (of course) * get signed up... see you there TS SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Hunt Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Scrubbed up nice. I'm down the dual carriage way this eve, giving the horses plenty of wip and up in the distance I can see brake light activity and lane changing to reveal a black car n/s lane with hazards on, as I approach it is only an 05 plate Gooner on a towrope behind a Seat........... I wonder if he kept that rope in with the spare SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Unless the garage is run by a Gooner enthusiast, the person actually doing the fluid change is likely to be (i) still in their teens (ii) ham-fisted (iii) blissfully unaware of the Renault-approved fluid change ritual and (iv) not at all interested in doing a good job. If I were you, I'd DIY it exactly because it's a critical job !It's a job that is certainly within my skill level mechanically. However when I'm involved with fluids I usually end up with them everywhere, except the place they are supposed to be! If I loose any oil when draining, then I could be in a right pickle trying to workout how much more to put back in. The guys I use are a small 3 man local garage that I trust, know well and have been using for years. They know that they usually get the jobs I hate/too lazy to do. At £50 p/h (or cash), they're cheap enough to make it too easy to be lazy on such things... Sigmund Fraud 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I might have a crack at a fluid change on the blue Gooner, just cos I've never done it before. It lokos pretty straightforward - seemingly you do an 'oil change' like on an engine and fill its sump pan to the right level with fresh fluid. Then disconnect the return pipe off the oil cooler and run it at idle for a while, allowing it to pump the fluid through all the internal gubbins and out into a tub. You then replace what's come out with the same amount of fresh stuff. Something like that anyway. Yours looks FLIPPIN SWEET, I say keep the fake wood too, its a great feature I reckon!!!! Specially with the funny little squares set into it. oldcars and SiC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I like the fake wood. If you must change it, get some 3m vinyl wrap for a different type of wood but please don't carbon fibre it! SiC and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuvvum Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 The wood looks very similar to what was in my Vel Shatis. I rather liked it I have to admit. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 The snagging list is getting a bit bigger: Steering wheel lock - doesn't really engage! Turn the wheel, it locks, turn the wheel the other way it comes off. Not bothered about this, unless the MOT tester picks it up... So plenty of things to get on with! I had fail on my OH's megane for this: Reason(s) for failureSteering lock fails to engage (2.1.4b)I left it connected to stop any fault codes but physically disabled it, passed with an advisory Here's some info on it:http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_210.htm "It is acceptable for a steering lock to be removed if it has been replaced with another immobilisation device." So the chip in your key is the immobilsation device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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