Jump to content
strangeangel

Strangeangel's Citroënic Shenanigans (featuring the Autoshite BX, Ami Break and some bikes) 27/5 A fond farewell

Recommended Posts

Well, the clutch is in, but he's having problems adjusting the pedal height. He reckons it's because this operating arm has been broken and re-welded at the wrong angle:

 

DSC_0004_zpsxkpkrlzi.jpg

 

Bugger.

 

 

Looks like the welding my brother in law did on the clutch arm of my AX 1.4D - I would suggest the design methods used an assumption about material properties, which the supplier of the material did not supply.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd trim that push rod (or just chuck those nuts away) so that once it is in place the quadrant and fork are roughly parallel ......

 

They were probably put in to compensate for the lost travel caused by the failing old arm or pedal box

 

I think that's going to be the next course of action. I've got the car back, and it's driveable, but the gearchange is stiff (it wasn't when the old clutch was still working). He reckons it's adjusted as well as possible with the pushrod/adjuster thing as it is.

 

HBOL shows a picture which shows mine has one nut too many, so investigation will occur on Sunday, weather permitting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a look at the adjuster mechanism today - he'd removed the stray nut that had been stuck on the end of the pushrod, presumably to compensate for the loss of travel caused by the welded operating arm. It all looks much better than in the first picture I posted (it was pissing down so no photos as yet), but adjusting it hasn't made any difference to the stiffness of the gearchange.

 

I'm a bit puzzled now 'cos it wasn't this still when the old clutch was working. It's had a complete new clutch, release fork and obviously the operating arm, so I'm not sure what the cause is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Possibly the gear linkage rather than the clutch? Is it still stiff to put into gear with the engine off?

 

Don't know how visible/accessible they are on a BX but there's a system of rods that move the gear selecty bit on the box, is it possible they've been bent or something when the box was removed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, it's fine with the engine off. TBH I haven't used it much apart from trundling down to Cardiff for the Wales v Georgia match, such a lovely car for these 500-mile-in-a-day jaunts, and frugal with it too.

 

A quick update on this: it's actually fine. I think driving round in the CJ for a fortnight with its 'knife through butter' gearchange spoiled me somewhat.

 

Anyway, the FTP. This occurred outside SA_Towers this fine and frosty morning...

 

IMG_1189_zpscgvzj51k.jpg

 

Case closed, I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lucas said just a name to put on Chinese tat these days I'm afraid

Lucas Haven't existed for years.

 

I remember getting permission to leave work (From the Lucas research site in Shirley) mid morning to go down to the Lucas Yuasa Factory about 6 miles up the Stratford Road, and buying 2 batteries for my self and a couple for colleagues, with my employee discount card and getting change from £60. Retail would have been £120 at the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems a common occurance to go out and buy a new battery to discover the correct one for your shite is significantly bigger than the one the previous owner stuck in... was sold by Halfords

 

 

Fixed that for you.

 

It seems that the correct battery for a 2001 to 2006 BINI one is 1.5 inches shorter than the correct battery for a BINI Cooper of same age and yet all motor factors and car spares places including ECP/GSF/Halfords/INDEPENDENTS only stock or list the shorter one.

 

The BINI one comes with a lump of plastic under the battery which means fitting it in a cooper makes it too low and the clamps are not fully tight, plus the leads will be sitting on top of the plastic box it sits in, which means that eventually they will fall off.

 

Solution : wood/plastic under the battery to get it to the right height.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, so for the first minute or so of every journey now the power steering is stiff and a bit notchy. NORTHERN POWERHOUSE MASSIVE sez this is because my LHM and filters are filthy, and I must change the former and clean the latter.

 

I have Haynes and Russek manuals (although due to massive domestic chaos I can't find them) and there's stuff online too, but I just thought I'd ask here if anyone has any experiences or hot tips etc. they'd like to share?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup. Pretty easy to do. Trickiest bit is getting an 11mm (IIRC) spanner on the de-pressurising screw on the regulator, though it's easier on a non-turbo. Make sure you can find it from above. If you can't, put it on ramps before you lower the suspension.

 

Suspension in low, turn that screw so the system depressurises and as much LHM as possible is returned to the reservoir. You'll probably need to disconnect hoses from the top of the LHM tank to be able to fully remove the lid, which has the filters attached. Having a lot of clean rags around might be an idea. It can get messy.

 

You can apparently drain the reservoir by disconnecting the system somewhere (a brake bleed nipple perhaps). I tend to just pull out the full reservoir (carefully does it) so I can pour the LHM away. With the reservoir empty, give it a good wipe out with more clean rags, trying not to rip your lower arms to shreds as you do so.

 

Filters can be cleaned up by soaking in petrol and blowing through with compressed air. Be careful, as the plastic can be brittle.

 

Fill the reservoir, start the engine and move height lever to full. Tighten the screw on the regulator. Now, this is where the fun can begin, as the car will almost certainly refuse to rise again. Sometimes, operating the steering can coax it into life again, but often, patience is needed.

 

When the car rises up, check the fluid level. You should then consider bleeding the brakes, to get that lovely fresh fluid right through to the stoppers. At this point, you may discover that French bleed nipples are made of cheese. They may also be a truly awkward size (like 7mm I think).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's worth re-mentioning watching your wrists on the internal sharp edges of a metal LHM reservoir where the plastic top fits in. Lovely colours together, the vivid green of new fluid and deep rich red of oxygenated blood, but you really don't want to contaminate the system. 

 

Usually it's a 12mm spanner you'll need to slacken off the regulator screw (make sure it's the right bolt, and don't undo it loads), only retighten it once the engine is running again. I usually prime the large feed pipe for the pump from the reservoir end so it doesn't run dry and have to suck air for too long, I also leave the suspension in low setting until the pump is pumping fluid then raise it up to the top and repeat. 

 

If the pump doesn't prime itself within a minute, then leave the engine running for two or three more with the regulator screw slackened off, then tighten and slacken two or three times (engine still running). In scores of hydropneumatic Cits from DSs to Xantias, I've only ever had to do this once with a tired modern pump with plastic internals - I think BXs all use the old-fashioned 500,000 mile variety.

 

Well worth checking the steering and brakes are powered before you set off onto the road, too. 

 

If the fluid is very dark and looks as if it's been in there decades, worth using the cheapest LHM for a change, then a thousand km down the road change it and recharge with the real stuff, not forgetting to clean the filters too.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lucas Haven't existed for years.

 

I remember getting permission to leave work (From the Lucas research site in Shirley) mid morning to go down to the Lucas Yuasa Factory about 6 miles up the Stratford Road, and buying 2 batteries for my self and a couple for colleagues, with my employee discount card and getting change from £60. Retail would have been £120 at the time.

 

i was amazed to see an "employee" gatting a battery for his fx4 taxi when i went once!

 

the hybrid taxi was stashed there iirc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I couldn't get the reservoir out without tilting it enough to spill LHM everywhere, so I didn't in any way bale the contents out into MRS_SA's best washing up bowl.

 

Here's a sample of the contents... the stuff looks to be a bit brown. On a scale of 1-RANK how bad would you say?

 

llll.thumb.jpg.a168c38e2ee560d0959e36a79d75ae47.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Floatylight
      Will be on the road shortly, right after fud has been consumed..
       
      Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
    • By TripleRich
      Hi all, new to the forum.  Thought you might be interested in what I've got myself into
      I'd been after my first classic car for a while.  If it's big and made in the 70s I'm interested.  Looked at few things like P6s, Zodiacs, Victors, SD1s and various other things.  Problem was I didn't want to spend a boatload of money on something that looked alright but underneath was actually a total heap.  The solution was to buy a complete heap in the first place and spend the money fixing it.
      So in January I went ahead and bought this from a colleague at work who was moving away and needed to get shot of it.

      It's a part finished restoration (I prefer not started) and it needs a whole load of help if it's going to stand any chance of using a road again.
      Pros
      It's right up my street.  Granada Coupes are quite odd and certainly stand out from the norm.
      It still has the original engine, box, interior and most trim.
      It came with loads of panels I need to repair it (mostly original Ford stock).
      It came with so many spares I could probably build a few Granadas and still have stuff left over.
      It was cheap.
      Cons
      Most of the front end has been cut off.
      Most of the body structure is quite rotten.
      It's going to take me ages.
      I work at a restoration company and my boss kindly allows me to keep the car there.  So I've got access to all the gear I need to restore it.  I've been busy on the car for a while now so will post more pics over the coming days.
      Cheers 
    • By danthecapriman
      Thought I'd start a thread about my old Capri since it's now reached it's turn in the que to receive a bit of attention.
       
      I've actually had this since 2001, it's an early mk2, on an M reg 1974. Being an early car it's still got mk1 rear axle and single acting type rear brake set up aswell as a few other minor differences from later cars just to use up remaining mk1 parts.
      It started life here in the Portsmouth area and doesn't seem to have ventured far since.
      Originally a stardust silver 1.6 L poverty model, which means virtually sod all regarding luxuries. Basic 2 pod dash with black 'crackle' finish facia, no radio, no sun roof or vinyl roof, not even a centre console!
      When I got to it unfortunately it had suffered severely from serious rust and latterly a vandal attack, having it's door and rear quarter panel booted in.
       
      Over the next couple of years I got it sorted and a cheap re paint into roman bronze, which was a favourite colour of mine at the time. For the first year or two it seemed fine but since then things have deteriorated.
      The respray wasn't good! It's thin in places and started to micro blister in various places, worst of which is all over the bonnet. The same bodyshop also did a bit of the bodywork I hadn't finished which was also pretty poor in some places.
      It's always been a great driver and never struggles at mot time so I just kept on using it and doing nothing more than collecting parts now and again with a view to sort it one day.
      It's also gained a few non original extras over the years like a higher spec wood effect 2 pod dash facia (which I like more than the original), a short console, brown interior instead of the utterly fucked black original, 'laser' 4 spoke alloys and a few other things.
       
      Anyway, fast forward to last weekend, when I dusted it off after winter and noticed various areas of new rust coming through or older rust that's gotten worse. So the decision was made to go for a professional resto job now before I end up finding something else to distract me (like big american cars with knackered engines!).
       
      1974 Ford Capri BBK244M by Dan Clark, on Flickr
      Here it is as it currently stands. Looks ok from a distance but the reality is very rough around the edges and the paint is so bad in places it's becoming embarrassing!
      IMG_0509 by Dan Clark, on Flickr
      And the interior which I'll be re trimming into black leather at some point after the body works done.
       
      It's been taken to the same place that did my Mercury's engine rebuild, since they did such a good job and they seem a good professional bunch.
      I dropped it off Monday afternoon for a thorough check over to build up a list of work and get a rough quote.
      Today I heard back from them.
      Good news so far, I suppose. It is as solid where it counts as I thought it was. Chassis is fine, original strut tops fine, most of the back end is solid and just needs a few repairs here and there.
      The worst is the bottom of the windscreen surround due to the wrong seal being used and then fitted badly causing leaks. Inner sill to A post bottom corner very scabby, front wings pretty crap, and various paint defects etc.
      The engine is fine, compression all in tolerances. Suspension needs work, and some brake pipes are getting quite rusty. So far so good and no surprises!
      There's still more checking to do over the next few days but it sounds alright so far.
      This work should be made a bit easier by having a lot of panels and parts to fix things already. The big find being a new unused pair of front wings. Very hard to find mk2 items now, though I did have to pay for them!
       
       
      The plan here is to make the car solid, reliable and good looking. I'm not making a show car or going too mad as that stuffs not my thing and if it was I'd start with a better more original car.
      Some of the later add ons will be ditched like the mk3 boot spoiler that I hate! And return it to more standard looking mk2 as it should be. No go faster mods or anything like that.
      The main priority is to get the body sorted and painted properly (engine out job and everything) then maybe a bit of mechanical work as needed.
      The original idea was to re paint back into original stardust silver, but having thought about it I'm leaning more towards another favourite Ford colour of the era, Miami blue metallic, which is a lovely colour! Any opinions?
       
      This will be another expensive project but not one I think I could do at home on the drive and do justice to, so I'd prefer to farm it out and get it right this time. It also means I can carry on working on my Transit and Granada at home without another distraction!
      For anyone whose interested I'll try to update this now and then as things progress. I'll also try to get the old pics of the car from when I got it so you can see how rusty it was! Bear in mind though that I paid £100 for this car in 2001 with MOT and tax! Try doing that now.
      I'm sure this is going to be worth the expense, not that I'm even considering selling it of course but I've had it so long I kind of feel obligated to do right by the car in a weird way!
×
×
  • Create New...