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Strangeangel's Shite-tastic Shenanigans 12/12 NEW MOTOR - ACHIEVED.


strangeangel

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31 minutes ago, strangeangel said:

 

Ah, I've changed locations now... the hill I will be worrying about is the one from Kirkburton to the top of Shelley. But yeah, not expecting much in the way of speed going up there. After a week this thread'll be all CAN U MAKE AXIAM FASTER M8?

 

Yes you can! And very simply, the key to increasing torque is to increase voltage, assuming it’s running the motor somewhere between 24-60v then a ‘boost pack’ of a couple of AGM batteries in either series or parallel, depending on the usual voltage, will get a noticeable change in oomph.

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27 minutes ago, Tamworthbay said:

Yes you can! And very simply, the key to increasing torque is to increase voltage, assuming it’s running the motor somewhere between 24-60v then a ‘boost pack’ of a couple of AGM batteries in either series or parallel, depending on the usual voltage, will get a noticeable change in oomph.

 

Interesting! Here's the Aixam's specs (thanks to the Wayback Machine):

 

image.thumb.png.009c105bac36b45a124ef7f855e781c4.png

 

This sounds like a goer then, and I've got plenty of room for more batteries now I've lobbed the back seat out!

 

 

 

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23 minutes ago, strangeangel said:

 

Interesting! Here's the Aixam's specs (thanks to the Wayback Machine):

 

image.thumb.png.009c105bac36b45a124ef7f855e781c4.png

 

This sounds like a goer then, and I've got plenty of room for more batteries now I've lobbed the back seat out!

 

 

 

Should be quite easy, I would put some fat diodes to prevent any issues with the ‘boost circuit’, then try another 12v direct into the motor and see if it makes much difference. Obviously a big bright red button with something like ‘turbot boost’ will be required. We tried all sorts when racing, as you do, we ended up limiting current draw (your motor controller will do that) with a two phase boost option. Our motors were 24v and we could boost that to 30v for long climbs, such as Goodwood or Mallory, and a 36v, later 48v, overtake mode. We could also use that at the end of races (4hr endurance races) if we had the energy left in the batteries. By limiting the bypass boost system to a small separate set of batteries you won’t run the risk of killing the range. What we found though was the ideal solution would have been a system that allowed constantly variable voltage, however the complexity of that was beyond our ability. We were in the process of designing a multiple voltage controller when they were banned and max voltage limited to 24v due to the advantages gained by boosting the voltage. I still have a very high quality, and programmable, motor controller that would work well as a boost controller. If it’s any use you are more than welcome to it.

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5 hours ago, Tamworthbay said:

Should be quite easy, I would put some fat diodes to prevent any issues with the ‘boost circuit’, then try another 12v direct into the motor and see if it makes much difference. Obviously a big bright red button with something like ‘turbot boost’ will be required. We tried all sorts when racing, as you do, we ended up limiting current draw (your motor controller will do that) with a two phase boost option. Our motors were 24v and we could boost that to 30v for long climbs, such as Goodwood or Mallory, and a 36v, later 48v, overtake mode. We could also use that at the end of races (4hr endurance races) if we had the energy left in the batteries. By limiting the bypass boost system to a small separate set of batteries you won’t run the risk of killing the range. What we found though was the ideal solution would have been a system that allowed constantly variable voltage, however the complexity of that was beyond our ability. We were in the process of designing a multiple voltage controller when they were banned and max voltage limited to 24v due to the advantages gained by boosting the voltage. I still have a very high quality, and programmable, motor controller that would work well as a boost controller. If it’s any use you are more than welcome to it.

 

Your EV racing experiences sound v. interesting, I bet I wouldn't be the only one interested in reading a thread about them! That sounds like a great plan, and a very kind offer - cheers. Given that it was happily doing 30 on the flat with the back brake jammed on, I'm reasonably confident that it will be fast enough for my needs, but here in Yorkshire, where we have HILLS... that's when it's going to need a bit of help. Yes, perhaps one of those 'missile launch buttons with a flip-up cover to activate the boost.

 

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1 hour ago, strangeangel said:

 

Your EV racing experiences sound v. interesting, I bet I wouldn't be the only one interested in reading a thread about them! That sounds like a great plan, and a very kind offer - cheers. Given that it was happily doing 30 on the flat with the back brake jammed on, I'm reasonably confident that it will be fast enough for my needs, but here in Yorkshire, where we have HILLS... that's when it's going to need a bit of help. Yes, perhaps one of those 'missile launch buttons with a flip-up cover to activate the boost.

 

It was a lot of fun, we competed for several years and beat Bentley, Peugeot, Eton and a few other big names! The series was aimed at apprentices and engineering students and was a great way to get into electric racing. It is now a partner series to FormulaE but they only do a few of their events I think. This is one of our cars, named Bernard after our site manage (long story). This pic was taken at Rockingham on the way to 2nd place secured on the last lap courtesy of the boost function. The cars do about 45mph flat out but on slick tyres, no suspension and virtually no brakes they are entertaining in the dry and properly scary on a wet day like the one in the pic. In the final there are 80 cars on track which adds to the fun.

ADA157D3-E89C-437F-AC62-CE521BB3152B.thumb.jpeg.5b12023ffcf9991065bb1284b5fcda92.jpeg

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10 hours ago, strangeangel said:

 

Ah, I've changed locations now... the hill I will be worrying about is the one from Kirkburton to the top of Shelley. But yeah, not expecting much in the way of speed going up there. After a week this thread'll be all CAN U MAKE AXIAM FASTER M8?

 

I've had a quick look on Strava and the fastest time posted up there by a cyclist is 2:51 for an average speed of a shade under 15mph, there's a target for you, although it sound like you should beat that no problem.

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Unusually, it's not raining, so let's see what's up with this brake. First job is to find somewhere safe to jack it up - defo not under the battery tray then...

 

IMG_1845.thumb.JPG.9fe46e18a3984ca2a490d5e18afd096b.JPG

 

This all fell off when I podged it. It looks to have been repaired* by having a sheet of fibreglass mat stuck over the rust, which was just about the worst thing they could have done as it's trapped the water in and rotted it even faster than if they'd done nothing. I was a bit worried about this, until I looked more closely and saw that the car is built onto some sort of alloy frame which appears to be in perfect condition.

 

IMG_1846.thumb.JPG.2284f34a92f004ab0ac161796350866c.JPG

 

That shelf is going to need work then, but at least there shouldn't be any vehicle structure issues. Anyway, let's have that drum off:

 

IMG_1844.thumb.JPG.af2ec31f211db93051e5f594e2a70529.JPG

 

Fat chance. Out with the big drill, then.

 

IMG_1848.thumb.JPG.cd653585919e1b216be8ccac2777e44e.JPG

 

Everything looks nice and clean, pistons go in and out easily etc. but there's got to be something wrong. Stripping it all down revealed this:

 

IMG_1853.thumb.JPG.89d3f1fc4dde8f91f2577fcaaa5f3c90.JPG

 

This handbrake operating mechanism is seized solid. There was no way you could tell while everything was still in one piece! It did seem to operate OK when I tried it on the jack earlier, but I wonder if this is causing the the handbrake to stick intermittently? I'll free it off and give it a thorough clean and see what difference that makes.

 

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On 10/29/2019 at 5:29 PM, egg said:

Dead maybe.....but if not actually crushed....could be useful parts!

 

Not crushed! It's in a scrappers in Bolton:

 

image.thumb.png.8f1dca77c9ef891f4354bd05b887d902.png

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aixam-Mega-City-electric-2008-passenger-side-mirror-n-s-f-BREAKING-SPARES/223597781870

 

I'm going to drop them an email and see if the charger is OK and how many millions they want for it...

 

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1 minute ago, Dave_Q said:

I was going to suggest £20, honestly their market for selling anything off this thing must be pretty much just you.

 

Absolutely, there's only 11 left on the road including my one. But you know how some people's minds work -  rarity =££££££, even though in reality if he doesn't sell it to me it'll probably get baled with the car when they tired of looking at it in a few weeks/months.

 

I'll leave it a bit and offer him twenty pund. In the unlikely event he accepts a low offer, I'd be up for taking everything off it - controller, motor etc.

 

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I don't know much about these but is the motor controller even current limited on full throttle? It's only a 4kW motor so it might just be running straight out the batteries on full throttle. If that's the case, it'll be extra easy to just put another battery in series and take the whole system up to 60V and push the output up to around 5kW.

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32 minutes ago, jonny69 said:

I don't know much about these but is the motor controller even current limited on full throttle? It's only a 4kW motor so it might just be running straight out the batteries on full throttle. If that's the case, it'll be extra easy to just put another battery in series and take the whole system up to 60V and push the output up to around 5kW.

 

The motor controller is a Curtis 1244-5461, which according to the spec sheet will only work with 36-48V so that looks like a no, unfortunately. EDIT: just found a proper manual for it here.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong - this is as steep a learning curve for me as when my Dad first let me loose with the spanners all those years ago!

 

In other news I offered the scrapper £25 for the charger, he's come back with:

 

Quote

pls can you send me a pic of yours if you dont mind as i dont know much about these electric cars it was jus a one off thanks

 

 
 
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There seems to be no published information in the way of repair manuals or wiring diagrams for the electric versions of the Aixam. Even French EV forums don't seem to have any info being passed around. And if I'm going to modify the thing, a wiring diagram looks to be the bare minimum I'll need.

 

I'm sorely tempted to buy this from eBay:

 

Quote

Full Electrical DIagrams for MEGA MULTITRUCK ELECTRIC VAN 600 E

3 Colour Pages of Actual Full Multitruck Electrical Diagrams in French , with French to English Glossary also provided.

Plus 2 more Diagrams in Black&White

2 Pages Speed Controller Default Codes

Covers Mega Diag 1ME222 Control with 1ME221 Battery Charger and Curtis 1244 Speed Controller

Diagrams cover all Inputs & Outputs, Wires, Components (Relays,Contactors,Fuses) and Connectors.

All White Wires are marked with Letter/Number Codes on your Multitruck and correspond with the codes on the diagrams.

Every wire's function is explained for you from the Curtis speed controller to the Mega Diag ECU to the battery charger !!!

These Diagrams will help you do things like decommision the Original Aixam battery charger and fit your own type or circuit out Eco/Slow mode plus even remove the AIXAM ECU from the circuit!

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIXAM-MEGA-ELECTRIC-MULTITRUCK-600e-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-in-PDF-Format-2004-to-2008/173761119015

 

Obviously it's for the Mega Van, but it appears to be built around exactly the same hardware as my car (see red above). £20, but it looks like it could save a lot of headaches! Hmmm...

 

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I'm not going to have chance to have a proper look at these until the weekend, but at first glance it would seem that the Mega Van and my City+ are indeed electrically identical. The under bonnet layout, and the components, are exactly the same:

 

1883093890_Screenshotfrom2019-11-2707-32-55.thumb.png.4a08895827139f609947e0b0291d8330.png

 

Amongst the diagrams (and the all important translations!) there's also a Word document full of all sorts of interesting info, e.g. how to disable the Aixam ECU, bypassing the on-board charger (seems to have already been done on my car). This should be a big help!

 

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1 minute ago, Cavcraft said:

Fabulous stuff, can't wait to read how you get on with it in regular use. Is it worth buying the whole scrap yard car for spares?

 

Yeah, given that he doesn't seem to have the first clue what to charge for the bits (still hasn't been back to me about the charger) I did wonder about that. If he hasn't replied by the start of next week I think I might make him a cheeky offer.

 

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10 hours ago, strangeangel said:

 did wonder about that. If he hasn't replied by the start of next week I think I might make him a cheeky offer.

 

Well as I say Bolton aint far so if I can help - or alternatively if I can pillage bits and bring them back to the Womble burrow and keep them safe let me know.

 

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It's actually been warm enough to set foot outside today, so I re-assembled the N/S rear brake (and the now freed handbrake mechanism) which leaked out so much smoke last week. Every drum brake I've worked on up to now has had either a manual or automatic wear adjuster - these have nothing. Is this unusual?

 

Anyway, I had a quick run round in it afterwards to see if there was much difference and I have to say there wasn't. It still gets up to about 30 easily enough on the flat, but show it a hill and it doesn't want to know - we're talking 15mph here. So although it's legal and running and everything it's not going into use until I can make some modifications. I think it's time to go and do some reading...

 

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I've been really lucky with cars (and bikes) over the last decade or so. Given that, I was most likely due for a properly troublesome little bastard like the Aixam to show up...

 

523401869_itsfuckingfuckedm8.thumb.jpg.7b685e1877563f20f431f1a8a7a384f2.jpg

 

Smoke - not a binding brake this time - and total loss of power. Not good. The redoubtable old BX dragged its sorry ass home.

 

Arse.

 

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