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strangeangel

Strangeangel's Citroënic Shenanigans (featuring the Autoshite BX, Ami Break and some bikes) 26/3 Ami fettling

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I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.

 

So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.

 

Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.

 

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Height lever problem: My XM had the same problem with the height lever except it wouldn't go to the lowest setting. Someone suggested that the runner/guides under the car that the shaft runs through can become clogged up with shit and that a clean and lube would be the first step in trying to solve it.

 

RE the tyres: You could probably get away with the 185/65/14's but your speedo will under read by -1.59% plus whatever discrepancy they have from the factory. In other words 30mph = 29.52mph and 60mph = 59.04mph plus whatever the original discrepancy is. Not ideal but better than it reading slower than you are actually going.

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You don't want to go too wide on the wheels or tyres, 5.5J best, you might get away with 6 if lucky. They foul on the rear arms, especially if the latter are leaning a bit. Seem to recall I just scraped by with 195/60/14s but 65s (or less) are better.

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I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.

 

So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.

 

Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.

The height lever always was stiff, just needed a good tug to get it locked in position.

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You don't want to go too wide on the wheels or tyres, 5.5J best, you might get away with 6 if lucky. They foul on the rear arms, especially if the latter are leaning a bit. Seem to recall I just scraped by with 195/60/14s but 65s (or less) are better.

It was running on 6J with 195/60 14 and in spite of the rear arches being trimmed it was hard to get them on and off. Nothing seemed to rub while being driven though.

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Check the linkage at the rear (it's all simple mechanical levers, rods and joints) and clean/grease. The handle in the car can take a bit of a pull to stick it in max height, but not to the point of excess. Is that clear as mud?

 

I think the GTis had 185/60/14s on 6" rims, when I ran them they were £200 bangers so used whatever they came with, but I seem to remember the sweetest combination was a car with 175/65s fitted.

 

Any pics?

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BX's are ace - and well bought that man.

 

The HP set up is quite easy to live with once you get your head around it and even stripping the doesur (sic) valve isnt the end of the world - somewhere on the internet are some very informative pictures from @Vanny of this parish ( and the BX Project) who has stripped and refurbed one. agreed about having a quick look and lube underneath - but only with the car on axle stands - I really cant stress this enough as Ive had one crush a 2.5L tin of bitumen in seconds when it dropped ( resulting in a North West "Face of Christ" on the driveway for several months). 

 

Ive had 195's on one of mine and apart from needing to slightly modify the rear spats with a piece of wood all was well, but if the rear arm bearings are shagged they will rub.

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Height corrector - It's okay, just needs a firm tug to get to the high position.

 

Wheels - It did run 165s when it was on steels. 195 you can get away with on the front (bought some in error but it was a shame not to use them) and 185s will go under the rear but will rub when on lowest setting. Rear arms lean a nib but don't affect the clearance.

 

DO NOT rely on the suspension to get under the car. The rear goes down pretty quickly (an hour or two) but the front stays up pretty well.

 

I know this machine pretty well.

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Still haven't done anything about the LHM escape, largely because of doing-up-the-house type stuff, but also now that one of the 205s CV joints has shat itself the BX is officially Number One Car.

 

I did manage to discover why the throttle action was so heavy though, even with a new cable. The soundproofing under the dash had dropped down and was catching on the very top of the pedal mechanism - now fixed!

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Still haven't done anything about the LHM escape, largely because of doing-up-the-house type stuff, but also now that one of the 205s CV joints has shat itself the BX is officially Number One Car.

 

I did manage to discover why the throttle action was so heavy though, even with a new cable. The soundproofing under the dash had dropped down and was catching on the very top of the pedal mechanism - now fixed!

 

Phew. That's good, because BX's can suffer from pedal box collapse. Clutch or accelerator can fail. 

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