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Strangeangel's Citroënic Shenanigans (featuring the Autoshite BX, Ami Break and some bikes) 14/10 Shit don't fit.


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Well, the clutch is in, but he's having problems adjusting the pedal height. He reckons it's because this operating arm has been broken and re-welded at the wrong angle:

 

DSC_0004_zpsxkpkrlzi.jpg

 

Bugger.

 

 

Looks like the welding my brother in law did on the clutch arm of my AX 1.4D - I would suggest the design methods used an assumption about material properties, which the supplier of the material did not supply.  

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I'd trim that push rod (or just chuck those nuts away) so that once it is in place the quadrant and fork are roughly parallel ......

 

They were probably put in to compensate for the lost travel caused by the failing old arm or pedal box

 

I think that's going to be the next course of action. I've got the car back, and it's driveable, but the gearchange is stiff (it wasn't when the old clutch was still working). He reckons it's adjusted as well as possible with the pushrod/adjuster thing as it is.

 

HBOL shows a picture which shows mine has one nut too many, so investigation will occur on Sunday, weather permitting.

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I had a look at the adjuster mechanism today - he'd removed the stray nut that had been stuck on the end of the pushrod, presumably to compensate for the loss of travel caused by the welded operating arm. It all looks much better than in the first picture I posted (it was pissing down so no photos as yet), but adjusting it hasn't made any difference to the stiffness of the gearchange.

 

I'm a bit puzzled now 'cos it wasn't this still when the old clutch was working. It's had a complete new clutch, release fork and obviously the operating arm, so I'm not sure what the cause is.

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Possibly the gear linkage rather than the clutch? Is it still stiff to put into gear with the engine off?

 

Don't know how visible/accessible they are on a BX but there's a system of rods that move the gear selecty bit on the box, is it possible they've been bent or something when the box was removed?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

No, it's fine with the engine off. TBH I haven't used it much apart from trundling down to Cardiff for the Wales v Georgia match, such a lovely car for these 500-mile-in-a-day jaunts, and frugal with it too.

 

A quick update on this: it's actually fine. I think driving round in the CJ for a fortnight with its 'knife through butter' gearchange spoiled me somewhat.

 

Anyway, the FTP. This occurred outside SA_Towers this fine and frosty morning...

 

IMG_1189_zpscgvzj51k.jpg

 

Case closed, I think.

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Lucas said just a name to put on Chinese tat these days I'm afraid

Lucas Haven't existed for years.

 

I remember getting permission to leave work (From the Lucas research site in Shirley) mid morning to go down to the Lucas Yuasa Factory about 6 miles up the Stratford Road, and buying 2 batteries for my self and a couple for colleagues, with my employee discount card and getting change from £60. Retail would have been £120 at the time.

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Seems a common occurance to go out and buy a new battery to discover the correct one for your shite is significantly bigger than the one the previous owner stuck in... was sold by Halfords

 

 

Fixed that for you.

 

It seems that the correct battery for a 2001 to 2006 BINI one is 1.5 inches shorter than the correct battery for a BINI Cooper of same age and yet all motor factors and car spares places including ECP/GSF/Halfords/INDEPENDENTS only stock or list the shorter one.

 

The BINI one comes with a lump of plastic under the battery which means fitting it in a cooper makes it too low and the clamps are not fully tight, plus the leads will be sitting on top of the plastic box it sits in, which means that eventually they will fall off.

 

Solution : wood/plastic under the battery to get it to the right height.

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, so for the first minute or so of every journey now the power steering is stiff and a bit notchy. NORTHERN POWERHOUSE MASSIVE sez this is because my LHM and filters are filthy, and I must change the former and clean the latter.

 

I have Haynes and Russek manuals (although due to massive domestic chaos I can't find them) and there's stuff online too, but I just thought I'd ask here if anyone has any experiences or hot tips etc. they'd like to share?

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Yup. Pretty easy to do. Trickiest bit is getting an 11mm (IIRC) spanner on the de-pressurising screw on the regulator, though it's easier on a non-turbo. Make sure you can find it from above. If you can't, put it on ramps before you lower the suspension.

 

Suspension in low, turn that screw so the system depressurises and as much LHM as possible is returned to the reservoir. You'll probably need to disconnect hoses from the top of the LHM tank to be able to fully remove the lid, which has the filters attached. Having a lot of clean rags around might be an idea. It can get messy.

 

You can apparently drain the reservoir by disconnecting the system somewhere (a brake bleed nipple perhaps). I tend to just pull out the full reservoir (carefully does it) so I can pour the LHM away. With the reservoir empty, give it a good wipe out with more clean rags, trying not to rip your lower arms to shreds as you do so.

 

Filters can be cleaned up by soaking in petrol and blowing through with compressed air. Be careful, as the plastic can be brittle.

 

Fill the reservoir, start the engine and move height lever to full. Tighten the screw on the regulator. Now, this is where the fun can begin, as the car will almost certainly refuse to rise again. Sometimes, operating the steering can coax it into life again, but often, patience is needed.

 

When the car rises up, check the fluid level. You should then consider bleeding the brakes, to get that lovely fresh fluid right through to the stoppers. At this point, you may discover that French bleed nipples are made of cheese. They may also be a truly awkward size (like 7mm I think).

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It's worth re-mentioning watching your wrists on the internal sharp edges of a metal LHM reservoir where the plastic top fits in. Lovely colours together, the vivid green of new fluid and deep rich red of oxygenated blood, but you really don't want to contaminate the system. 

 

Usually it's a 12mm spanner you'll need to slacken off the regulator screw (make sure it's the right bolt, and don't undo it loads), only retighten it once the engine is running again. I usually prime the large feed pipe for the pump from the reservoir end so it doesn't run dry and have to suck air for too long, I also leave the suspension in low setting until the pump is pumping fluid then raise it up to the top and repeat. 

 

If the pump doesn't prime itself within a minute, then leave the engine running for two or three more with the regulator screw slackened off, then tighten and slacken two or three times (engine still running). In scores of hydropneumatic Cits from DSs to Xantias, I've only ever had to do this once with a tired modern pump with plastic internals - I think BXs all use the old-fashioned 500,000 mile variety.

 

Well worth checking the steering and brakes are powered before you set off onto the road, too. 

 

If the fluid is very dark and looks as if it's been in there decades, worth using the cheapest LHM for a change, then a thousand km down the road change it and recharge with the real stuff, not forgetting to clean the filters too.  

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Lucas Haven't existed for years.

 

I remember getting permission to leave work (From the Lucas research site in Shirley) mid morning to go down to the Lucas Yuasa Factory about 6 miles up the Stratford Road, and buying 2 batteries for my self and a couple for colleagues, with my employee discount card and getting change from £60. Retail would have been £120 at the time.

 

i was amazed to see an "employee" gatting a battery for his fx4 taxi when i went once!

 

the hybrid taxi was stashed there iirc

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  • strangeangel changed the title to Strangeangel's Citroënic Shenanigans (featuring the Autoshite BX, Ami Break and some bikes) 14/10 Shit don't fit.

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