rainagain Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 It was lovingly zip tied in place, looks like it was part of the traffic master system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 Then it gets stranger, I traced some of the wiring to this little screen which was left on top of the factory radio face down, seems a really strange place to put it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 I snipped everything out and was left with two 3A fused 12V feeds, one permanent and one switched by the ignition. I used the ignition one to power the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 So far I've only used the bluetooth to stream music from my phone and it works really well. You just change the source on the factory stereo to cd changer then the up down track buttons change the track. However I have one problem with the wiring, the unit is powered by the ignition controlled feed whilst the factory radio can also be powered up by having the key on the first (aux) position, the position just before ignition on. so if you turn the key to aux, the factory radio turns on and says 'cd error', if you then turn the key further to turn the ignition on it still won't see the unit. If you turn the key quickly from off to ignition on. both the factory radio and the unit power up at the same time and work ok together. So I've got some options: A: do nothing and just turn the key quicklyB. check the unit's current draw and if it's low just connect it to the permanent 12vC. try and find a wire powered from the aux key position and power the unit from this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Glad the vibration issues have been resolved. Lucky escape with those tyres mins. Would have been a bit hairy of one had submitted at speed under that big heavy bus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I have now changed the ATF in the 850 and have come to the conclusion that the best way is to draw as much out as the Pela pump can get (handily this turned out to be exactly 5 litres), refill and drive for a couple of days then repeat a couple of times. rainagain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 Thanks for the tip, would you mind answering these questions: How did you use the pela pump? Did you just stick it down the dipstick hole?Did you use genuine Volvo atf or something else? For my car I read that people have used a Vauxhall equivalent as its lots cheaper or ordered it in bulk off ebay. Both make me a bit nervous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatharris Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Is it a non geartronic box? If so it should be an Aisin Warner AW50/55SN. There will be a plate on the box to confirm the model number. OIL TYPE IS VERY IMPORTANT in this box, the V70 I had year ago had a fluid change at a crap garage that used universal fluid and by the time I drained and changed the box just over 1k later, it was already brown and stinky. Don't undo the bolt on the top of the bell housing and fill it through there, as you WILL lose third gear as a result, as I learned that is what the garage did wrong. rainagain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 The Pela pump goes down the dipstick tube, no spillage at all. To refill it I stuck a funnel in the dipstick tube.I just used generic Dexron III ATF, my gearbox is old enough not to need the posh stuff. You can borrow my Pela pump if you want. It's great for engine oil changes too. It's not really any quicker but it's much cleaner and easier, and often gets more oil out than the traditional method. rainagain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 I've used my pela oil extractor on my AW55 gearbox (same box as Volvo) equipped Laguna about 5 times now through the gearbox dipstick tube. Works extremely well. Used a Draper oil filler funnel thing with a pipe on to refill. Also worked well! Pics of the setup on my Laguna thread (that should really update). Still working fine using the cheap Mannoil 3309 ATF you see on eBay. £50 for 5x4l containers of the stuff. Parky and rainagain 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 The Volvo's been doing well transporting me in quiet comfort back and forward to work, however I can easily see in the works car park which spaces I normally park in. I think it's time I sorted this oil leak. The oil leak is mainly coming from the top of the engine, some googling suggests this is likely a blocked pcv system. To test this theory I have a rigged up a T piece from the breather hose on the top of the engine to a one way valve. That way if the crank case pressure is more than the pcv system can handle it will just be vented to atmosphere. The one way valve only needs a tiny bit of pressure to open. With this in place today I cleaned the top of the engine and took it for a run. The oil is still leaking from the torq headed bolts on the top of the engine. These are ones under the plastic trunking in the pic. You can easily see the pool of oil surrounding them. Would I be able to remove the bolts with the leaks round them and put some silicon sealant on the threads? I'm not sure what their purpose is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Was at my Dad's garage recently and got a look at the HBOL, the torq headed bolts are access plugs to check the tappets. I cleaned the engine top again last night and took this photograph this morning when I got to work. As you can see it's quite a pool of oil just for ~30 miles. I now think it's coming from the 10mm hex headed bolts that hold down the cam cover. I'm going take the two near the pool of oil out this lunch time and put some PTFE tape round the threads and put them back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honey Badger Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Would a dowty seal under the head of the bolts help stop the flow of oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 It would but there's none in work stores Just checked there's fibre and copper washers, I think I might try PTFE tape and a copper washer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Just nipped out and removed the two hex upper cover retaining bolts, the threads on both of them were dry, so I moved onto the torq headed plugs. The two I removed both had oil on the threads so I wrapped both in PTFE tape and put them back in. To get to the hex bolts I had to remove the coil pack, the spark plug is just about drowning in oil. I tired to soak up as much as I could with paper towel. So fingers crossed when I get home tonight the top of the engine will be dry! (live action shot below) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Got home from work...fucksticks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Wynns stop leak. Someone will be along in a moment to suggest you spent ££££ on doing it proper. I'd chuck caution to the wind and try a stop leak additive for what it's worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 Wynns stop leak. Someone will be along in a moment to suggest you spent ££££ on doing it proper. I'd chuck caution to the wind and try a stop leak additive for what it's worth.Thanks for the suggestion but I don't think this would help as there's no seals around the bolt heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 Last night I cleaned off the oil for the umpteenth time and covered the area in talc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 should smell nice now if nowt else r.welfare, CreepingJesus and The Moog 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 should smell nice now if nowt elsePlus my neighbours now think I'm nuts having witnessed me straddling the engine whilst trying to puff white dust on it. Dave_Q 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 But it was all worth it when I got this money shot, got you, you little leaking bastard drum and CGSB 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 From looking yesterday there's not a copper washer the right size in work stores, my possession so I will try and fit a fibre one at lunch time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drum Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 The old 'roll her in flour and look for the damp patch' routine. Nice detective work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 That's top Colombo work .... Just one more thing.... Puffs the talc.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tetleysmooth Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Tesco Loves Baby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnorwebthgimi Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Any more news on the coolant leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 Any more news on the coolant leak?I got one of those leak detection kits from ebay with the UV dye, which was worth it just for the funky UV torch. Using it I found the leak is coming from the O rings on the heater matrix, which is a common problem. The water level has settled in the middle of the max/min marks on the header tank and since then its stopped leaking. So fixing it's now a low priority, especially as I need to work on why its chomping the outside edge off the front tyres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 This pic made me very happy, note lack of oil! The Moog, CGSB and Richard 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnorwebthgimi Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Looks like there might be a leak from talc powder dispenser. The Moog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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