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Project Capri. Door mirrors pg.46.


danthecapriman
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On the MK3 the rubber window trim fits into small clips that attach to the ally strip that clips on the top of the door. Is the mk2 different? It’s a stupidly complicated system if you ask me, and leaves nasty possibilities for rust.

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18 minutes ago, Tamworthbay said:

On the MK3 the rubber window trim fits into small clips that attach to the ally strip that clips on the top of the door. Is the mk2 different? It’s a stupidly complicated system if you ask me, and leaves nasty possibilities for rust.

Mk2 is the same. 
There’s a window ‘scraper’ seal that fits into metal clips on top of the door that also hold the door top trim on. Black trim on Mk3 usually chrome/bright on Mk2. Ive got a pair of new ones for mine. I’ve also got new clips for both doors and new rivets to hold them to the door, but I usually dip the rivet into a pot of Waxoyl before securing them so when it squashes and fills the hole it also squashes the Waxoyl under the rivet stopping damp getting to the steel door tops.

On all Capri’s the seal I changed in my last update fits inside the groove in the door frame top section. The glass actually fits and is guided by the felt in the seal. It runs all the way around the three sides of the top frame inside the channel where the glass sits when the window is fully closed. You can barely see it tbh but it’s in there! 
I changed the drivers side one on mine some years ago but never did the passenger side so the new seal just got left in the shed in its sealed bag! I don’t know if you can even still buy them tbh?

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As usual, less done today than I wanted, but it wernt arf warm out on the drive today!

Started by digging out all the bits for the door latches/locks, nuts, bolts & clips etc. First thing to go back on were the chrome door handles. Put these on assembled up with their two open/lock rods, little bushes, lock barrel seal ring and a new handle - body seal (old ones had gone rock hard after 47 years!), tightened up and look very nice!

Spent ages poncing around with the remaining operating rods. There’s a shortish one that just goes up through the top of the door for the interior lock pull handle. One was a pain as it just refused to go through the bush on the latch mechanism. Not made any more pleasurable by some bell piece deciding to fill the door cavity with wax…! 
Then was the long rod that goes from the interior door handle to the latch mechanism. This wasn’t too bad but I did do the first door by fitting the wrong side rod (they’re handed). 
Decided to test it all then, the passenger door worked-ish once then fucked up. So I had to remove the latch mechanism as it had jammed up. I spent about an hour flushing it through with wd40 and working it free. Visually the mechanisms look clean but this one was full of brown gunk inside. It’s all come out with the wd40 and works well now, I guess it was just years worth of old grease sticking the mechanism up. 
It’s all good now, though I have found the passenger door interior handle assembly is a bit of a state. The plastic back part is all discoloured and brittle, probably age and sun damage, so I’ve left it fitted for now and it works fine, but I’ll keep my eye out for a replacement. They’re similar to mk3 ones but have chrome handles and not as easy to find!

Chrome handles still want a proper spit & polish buff up but I think they look great. I still absolutely love the blue paint on this!

ACEB97C9-211D-4DF7-A9B1-AC7620ABAA62.thumb.jpeg.a206624da1263b1e928b36d80ad25b3d.jpeg

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It was getting hot by now though and I’d had enough so I spent the next hour or two doing odd bits & bobs, fitted the door end reflectors, greased up the door window winding mechanism, window runners and various bits of the locking mechanisms and handles etc etc, then found the interior rear view mirror in the bottom of a box so I fitted that too since it was easy.

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The beige trim cover bit is a brand new reproduction part as the original was disintegrating. It looks like a loose fit, but fitting the original and another dark grey one Ive got (both Ford parts) gives the same finish so it must just be how they are? 
 

Next jobs hopefully should be drilling the hole for the courtesy light switches, fitting those and wiring them in, and fitting the mirrors.

 

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  • danthecapriman changed the title to Project Capri. Doors, pg.46.
2 hours ago, Amishtat said:

On the road this summer? Not far to go in the grand scheme of things. 

That is the plan, yes! 
It’s pretty much done really, just assembling the doors, fitting some bits of trim, badges etc. There’s very few bits left in boxes so it must be close.

Ill definitely need to get someone to look at setting the tracking etc too before it goes far.

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/14/2021 at 9:56 AM, danthecapriman said:

That is the plan, yes! 
It’s pretty much done really, just assembling the doors, fitting some bits of trim, badges etc. There’s very few bits left in boxes so it must be close.

Ill definitely need to get someone to look at setting the tracking etc too before it goes far.

Famous last words wasn’t it!? I’ll get it done for this summer… yeah bollocks!

Its not done! It’s sat exactly where I left it how I left it after the last update. Tbh I had something else come up shortly after that but since then I just couldn’t find the interest or enthusiasm to touch it, so I didn’t.

This week’s weather is supposed to be ok though so I’m going to use it to get as much as possible done. Hopefully to break the back of it now. 
So, I’ve picked up where I left off and continued work on the drivers door. Last time I’d assembled some bits of it, sprayed in a quick blast of cavity wax around the very bottom of the frame and left it to soak in. 
Today I’ve attempted to finish this but as usual ran into a problem, which I’ll get to later. 
I started by hoovering out the cobwebs and dead flies from the inside of the door, then fitting all the door lock and latch rods. I’d actually already done the rod for between the interior handle and latch mechanism but it turned out to be fitted the wrong way round so I had to re-do it. 
With all those now in place (the rod for the interior door lock pin was an absolute cunt!) I went to fit the exterior chrome handle, which is where I ran into problem number 1.

Basically on offering up the handle it was clear that the the locating dowels/bolt holes on the back of the handle would not line up with the holes in the door itself. There was also an issue where the lock cylinder would fit tight against the hole in the door skin. All this meant the handle would not ever fit in the door skin.

You can see how misaligned things were here. 

812F19FC-A88F-414E-B175-3A5FBD9D680F.thumb.jpeg.57505b95024aad852488d24836613638.jpeg
 

The cause of this, boys and girls, is because of non genuine parts. 
Unfortunately, the drivers door skin I got for this car is a new pattern part. The door frame however is an original Ford part and you can see here the quality issue trying to line them up together. 
The skin itself looks absolutely fine, it’s just the holes for the handle misalign with the original frame, the hole for the lock cylinder is significantly too small and as a side note, the non genuine skins don’t have any factory made holes on top for the chrome trim retaining rivets (these are easy to drill, but still…).

The solution isn’t difficult but a bit of a pain, simply use a file to open out all the holes. After removing a little bit at a time until everything fitted as it should the next job was to protect the now bare steel edges where I’d filed it down, so a modelling brush was used to carefully touch in the edges with a couple of coats of Miami blue paint. 
Once dry the handle could be slid in, with its new rubber seal and bolted into place.

7CDB0AB7-5068-4C43-9D02-F4AB8CF42986.thumb.jpeg.2308fe0663eb0c20ad79993dc60a1fd2.jpeg
 

With that done I tried operating the latch and lock mechanism. Which completely failed to do anything! 
As per the passenger side, the mechanism was just gummed up and seized from sitting unused for so long so several blasts of penetrating spray and working through saw the latch mechanism working. However, problem number 2 was the lock mechanism was having non of it! It was jammed solid and wouldn’t work from the key in the lock or the manual interior pull. 
It actually took me hours to find what was wrong with it, which pissed me off no end. 
Turns out that because of the trouble I had with the door skin not being aligned, this actually meant that the handle itself was now not sitting in exactly the same place as it was originally. This caused the latch handles operating rod to be sitting too high up which forced the lock mechanism interlock to become stuck! Easy to fix once you work that out though. 
The two rods on the back of the handle have a hairpin bend in the middle of them, which I guess is how you adjust their lengths to fine tune them. In my case I needed the latch rod to be a gnat’s cock length longer, so simply putting a big flat blade of a screwdriver into the hairpin and twisting it slightly was enough to open the bend out a tad, making the rod slightly longer and allowing the mechanism interlock to work. The result? A working lock! Finally!

AAC195D4-403E-4E4C-9C2A-3FE591D973F4.thumb.jpeg.9ea19c72d56c4255c27a0a0cf4f9e424.jpeg
 

Next up was fitting the last few sheets of the sound deadening material, as per the other door. I’ve said it before, but the difference this stuff makes is incredible. The panels feel and sound so much more solid and heavy than without it. Infact, I reckon this car will be bulletproof with all this stuff lining the panels out! It’ll certainly weigh a good deal more!

After that I cleaned all the gunk and grease out of the mechanism and then gave the inside of the door a second, heavier coating of cavity wax to finish that off.

 

Another job I need to sort is the fuel filler door. This is fitted but the bump stop for its closed position is missing. Turns out the bodyshop fucked up a bit! Unfortunately, not being familiar with Capri’s they’ve actually thought the metal tab that holds the rubber bump stop was a spare seam for the inside of the fuel cap area and they flatted it down and spot welded it down! So I now need to drill out their spot weld, bend the tab back up and find a rubber bung/grommet to fit as the bump stop. Shouldn’t be too hard but access is tight so I’ve ordered a right angle drill attachment to do it. Hopefully that’ll be a job for later this week.

 

 

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Great to see work with this is still progressing - every now and then an odd thought will pop into my mind about how it's coming on.

So many minor annoyances to contend with, but it's so close now - hard earned, but hopefully so satisfying once the last part clicks into place, the boxes of bits are empty, and you get to sink into the driver's seat and turn the key...

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Oh what a day!

Its fighting me every step of the way but it’s creeping forward bit by bit.

First thing to do was finish off the last dregs of cavity wax in a couple of cans I had lying around so I’ve just gone wild with it inside the doors! Then left them both open for a couple of hours to drip the excess into some old trays. Each door must have a full large can of Dynax S50 in them now so I’m considering them about as well protected as they can be! And it’s got rid of a few half used cans of wax.

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Next up was to get the door check straps installed and the two courtesy light switches in the door shuts. 
The switches involved drilling a hole through the A post to fit them, something I wasn’t keen doing tbh but it’s got to be done! 
I googled a few photos of mk1 Capri’s (same type of switch this car should have, which I’ll explain later…) to get a good idea of positioning. It doesn’t matter too much really but ideally I wanted them to be about in the right place, both in the same place per side and they need to miss the framework inside the A post and let the wire reach the backs of them. 
If I’d remembered I’d have taken a photo of them before the car came apart but unfortunately I did not! 
I also did a practice run on a scrap of steel to gauge what sized hole worked best for the switches. If you go too big with the Mk1 type switch your fucked as the switch will just fall out! They simply stay in under tensioned metal tabs against the edge of the hole which also double up as the earth for the switch. 
Measuring up on the car, I used a flexible trimmers tape measure (to get in the space and shape, steel rulers etc wouldn’t fit!) then marked where I wanted the hole centre on a strip of masking tape. 
 

If, in the unlikely event anyone ever restores a Mk1 or early Mk2 on here again my measurements for them;

60mm lower than the bottom edge of the check strap slot. 
30mm out from the door seal attachment flange. 
11mm hole diameter.

I did look online but couldn’t find anything about what other people doing this did so that’s mine! 
Then pop a brave pill and I drilled a 2mm pilot hole in each side, followed up with the 11mm final hole. Best way to do this and get it neat is to use a step drill bit. For those that don’t know, these are cone shaped drills that get bigger in steps so you simply keep pushing the bit through until you hit the size step you want the final hole to be. They also leave a perfect smooth round hole unlike some normal drill bits! I’ve had mine years but recommend a set of them to anyone doing stuff like this. 
Normally I’d paint the edges of the holes but in this case I need them bare metal for the switches earth. I might pop out the switches again yet and put a bead of sealer around the rubber seal then pop them back in, just to make sure damp can’t get under it.

Heres the finished result.

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After that I just stuck the new self adhesive check strap foam seals on, then pulled the strap into position and put new pins through. I also put a smear of grease onto the straps to let them slide and move freely. 
This one was easy. Drivers side check strap was a right twat and took me hours to actually get it to work properly. Not helped by the door now being full of fresh wax and the window frame being right in the way! 
Also had to cut off the switch wire connectors as they were the wrong type for these new remanufactured switches, then crimp on new ones. 
 

Here’s a comparison of new different switch types.

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The round ones are Mk1 & early Mk2. The other one is later Mk2 & Mk3. Imho the later style switches are better parts and design, and I was going to use them instead but since I want my car ‘right’ I decided to go as original instead!

Now that’s done I can wax out both A posts inside and fit the A post kick panel trims. Then finish the carpet edges off and fit the door sill finisher trims. Question is, do I fit the grey plastic Mk3 trims or the stainless steel non OE ones Ive got???

 

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Not a whole lot done today but did manage to get something done that makes the car look more finished, and imho makes it look even cooler!

Firstly, it’s picked up some bullet holes!!

AF2712DD-D909-42BB-AAC1-8FBC776D608B.thumb.jpeg.ac1b6b4b243e9cd8ce90061ade79f4ec.jpeg
 

Oh yes, it’s time to fit the door mirrors!! 
This bit was a bit of a one shot deal, get it wrong and you’ll see the error! As usual, I could find no information anywhere about exactly where these needed to be fitted on the door so it was a case of find what pictures I could of the right style mirrors and cobble something together that looks right. 
There’s a variety of different types of mirrors that were fitted to these cars from the factory, depending on the cars age and specification. Believe it or not the earliest mk2’s actually had no set mirror type, some were even sent out with no mirrors at all or, like mine did, with a single extra cost mirror on the drivers door only. Then of course there’s a whole shed load of non genuine mirrors that people fitted too. 
When I got the car it had a non gen mirror on the drivers door (chrome TEX item). Then after it’s first rebuild I fitted a pair of standard late Mk2/Mk3 mirrors, the chrome version. These, while not being a bad choice weren’t right for the age of my car so I decided to hunt down the right ones. I mentioned this earlier in the thread somewhere, but my car being so early was almost certainly originally fitted with a mirror similar to some Mk1’s had. Despite looking similar it’s actually a new part for the Mk2 in 1974. However it seems this design was very short lived (from what I gather the ‘ball’ type position adjustment between stem & mirror head was prone to wear which meant the head would just flop down rendering the mirror useless unless you liked looking down at the road!) This design was only available from Jan 74 to Nov (I think) 74… nowadays this is a rare part! 
Naturally this was what I wanted as I just love making life difficult for myself! 
I looked for ages for a pair, and eventually got lucky finding a new old stock left hand one in Germany. Then shortly afterwards spotted a mis-described right hand one, also new old stock, here in the U.K. 
Since I’m aiming for reasonably close to factory looks for this car I should have only needed the drivers side one. But, I’m going for the pair as having both door mirrors will just A; be safer - better visibility. And B; I think having both looks better!

So, masking tape stuck to the door in roughly the right area I measured, offered up, measured, offered up… many many times to be absolutely sure! Then compared measurements from one side to the other just as confirmation. Then drilled a pilot hole through my lovely doors. This was followed up with the step drill bit through to a 6mm hole x 2 per side. 
After that, I cleaned up the swarf and painted the bare steel edges of the holes, first with primer, then a coat of blue, then finally I swabbed in a bit of thick Waxoyl just to be absolutely sure rust can’t start on the holes if any damp manages to creep in under the mirror stem seal. 
Here’s what I used to get approximate position from, a Ford press pic. 
 

8F635E50-1A8E-4FC8-B5BD-D530A74F5DAE.thumb.jpeg.54f0117ca86df32cd249d59444ea7af2.jpeg
 

I actually had someone hold my mirror in place then I jumped in the car to check I could see properly from each seat (before drilling the holes!) but I found I could see more by moving the mirror further forward up the door than Ford put them so I went with that. It’s barely noticeable tbh but I’d rather be able to see properly than worry about absolute mm perfection to original!

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Fitting is easy once the holes are drilled, slide the stem seal on, push the two studs through the holes then stick your hand up inside the now freshly wax filled (!) door and do up the nut. They didn’t come with washers, but I did add a big penny washer and spring washer to each, just to be sure. I’ve also smeared grease over the studs/nuts to stop corrosion and then blasted wax over the backs of the holes inside the doors to protect the hole edges.
I’m well pleased with them! Exactly what I wanted, and quite an unusual item on these nowadays. I forgot to get a pic but standing back and looking at the car now it looks really nice with these on. They really set it off imho.

 

Now these are on I can fit exterior glass seals, chrome trims and also fit the interior door plastic membrane and door trim panels, arm rests etc. 
Right angle drill is due for delivery tomorrow so once that’s here I’ll do the fuel flap door stop, then fill the fuel tank up and run it up from its own tank! If I can get any fuel!

 

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  • danthecapriman changed the title to Project Capri. Door mirrors pg.46.

Didn’t get any pics today (sorry!) but it was only boring stuff anyway.

Job 1 was to sort out the fuel door. This was fitted and working a while back, but the doors bump stop was missing which allowed the door to close too far causing it to look wank from outside but also made a paint on paint interface where it definitely shouldn’t. Looking at it revealed a bit of an error by the bodyshop. 
They’d wrongly assumed the bump stops metal tab to be a seam for between the outer rear quarter panel and the bowl the fuel cap sits in, and they spot welded it down! I think it was an honest mistake, possibly because of unfamiliarity with this type of car and I don’t hold it against them at all tbh. One of those things. 
I thought I could fix it by drilling out the spot weld then bending the tab back up and popping a rubber bung in the hole but after drilling the spot weld out it had been done with a mig welder so the weld was actually huge and not round so the spot weld drill couldn’t do the job unfortunately. 
So instead I carefully used a cutting disc in a dremmel and sliced the old tab off completely then ground off the remaining blobs of weld to leave a flat smooth surface. This wasn’t easy as it’s inside the fuel cap recess so space was at a premium. This was why I didn’t want to put petrol in the tank yet! Not a place you want sparks flying around! 
With the old tab gone I simply made a cardboard template for a replacement, then transferred that to a bit of old steel sheet I had laying around. Drilled a hole for the bump stop rubber, etch primed and painted it blue. I did this yesterday and left it to dry overnight.
This morning I fitted it into place. It’s not welded in. I decided welding it was more trouble than it was worth tbh. Given there’s no weight on this tiny part and minimal pressure on it (all it does is hold the door in line with the rear wing when closed and stops it closing too far) I decided to mix up a bit of epoxy metal adhesive and glue it with that. Then once it was in place I drilled two holes through it and the panel it attached to and put a couple of pop rivets in to hold it. It’s absolutely rock solid now and you can’t see the back of the tab or the rivets when the doors open or closed so I’ll put a bit of seam sealer over the joins to keep moisture out then touch in the paint. 
It works a treat now, very solid and the door closes into the perfect position with the rear wing.

 

Job 2 was to fill up and bleed the brake system. I thought I’d done this already tbh, but clearly not. I’ve filled up with standard Dot 4 fluid and bled it up. No leaks anywhere so all good! Took a while to get the air out but to be expected on a bone dry new system I suppose. They work now too! I rolled the car down the drive and pushed the pedal and it stopped well enough. Might give them another bleed before hitting the road though just to be sure.

While the wheels were off I also gave all four wheel arch bowls/inner wings a second coat of clear UB wax so they should be well protected now.

 

Not a thrilling update, but one step closer!

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      1987 Volvo 360 GLT. D899 CBJ ___ Managed three months in a Metro before the small car and smaller petrol tank became a bore.



      Ford Mondeo and Honda Civic Coupe by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Ford Mondeo Zetec. V384 DBJ. Still the most I've ever spent on a car. It was 3 years old and cost, from memory, about £8,000. Just think of the Rover R8s you could buy with that now!

      1987 Volkswagen Golf GTI 8v by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1987 Volkswagen Golf GTI D79 CVV. I very nearly bought a MK1 Golf 1.1 but was persuaded, by my father amusingly, to buy this one from a different friend. From memory I gave about £500 for it, and sold it to some racers later that year for about £300. Amusingly, 16 year later I'd sell the Hartge wheels that came with the car for £530.

      1999 Toyota Avensis CDX by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Toyota Avensis CDX. V781 GDP. By far the best car I've ever had. Bought in 2002 for £5300, it had previously been a company car at British Telecom. I ran it from 62,000 to 174,000 before it became surplus to requirements. A German chap bought it on ebay for about £500 and drove over to collect it. Hero.

      2001 Ford Mondeo Zetec by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2001 Ford Mondeo Zetec. Y821 EEB. I should have loved this car. I gave £500 for it in 2008 which was stupidly cheap by anybody's standards. It needed 4 tyres (which actually was nice to pick good ones for once) and a coil spring. Sadly, it was just bill after bill after bill. I sold it and promised to never own another Ford. I nearly succeeded.

      1998 Nissan Almera by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1998 Nissan Almera GX Auto. S58 NLO. My late Grandfather's car and, upon reflection, my first proper attempt at bangernomics. I bought it for £500 in 2008 from the estate and ran it for well over a year and 30,000 miles. It was also my first automatic which, whilst a bit dumb, did lock up into overdrive and give a good 36 mpg no matter how it was driven.

      2004 Ford Fiesta 1.25 LX and 2006 Ford Focus 2.0 Ghia by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2004 Ford Fiesta Zetec. AG53 BWL. My wife's car which I ran for a couple of years when I bought her a Focus as a wedding gift.

      2003 Rover 75 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2003 Rover 75 Club SE. AX53 BFA. This is where my career as a serial car buyer really began. Ignoring all of the warning signs I decided to press a K Series into a daily 100 mile commute, which it did with aplomb. This wasn't actually the car I set out to buy, the one I'd agreed to buy OVERHEATED ON THE FORECOURT whilst I was doing the paperwork. Consequently I couldn't leave fast enough and bought a different car later that day.

      2004 Toyota Avensis T30-X by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2004 Toyota Avensis T3-X. KT53 DWZ. Sensible head back on, I decided to get back into something I trusted when my 3rd son was born. This was a lovely car, but not without its problems. The VVTi oil burning issues are well documented and do frequently occur. Ironically, this was less reliable than the Rover it replaced! Despite fearing the worst and 3 months off the road, the new owner has just MOTd it.

      1999 Toyota Avensis SR by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Toyota Avensis SR. V263 GDP. Back into bangernomics territory again. The last MK1 Avensis I had was the best car I'd ever had, so I hoped to replicate it with another T22 Avensis. This one came up for sale in my favourite (and rare) colour with a numberplate sequential to my previous car - so it was meant to be. I still have this now, and tomorrow it will tick around to 185,000 miles having been bought by me at 100,500.

      Side Bitches

      1974 Morris Mini 1000 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1974 Morris Mini 1000. GEL 517N. Well, I always wanted one - and was young, free, single and well off at the time (2003). A memorable trip to buy it when I called my new girlfriend by my ex girlfriend's name 20 miles into a 200 mile weekend away. She's never forgiven or forgotten but we're still friends. Oh - and married.

      1977 Ford Capri II GL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1977 Ford Capri II 1600 GL. SMY 675R. I can't remember why I bought this, other than I thought it'd be amusing. It was bought from Norwich for £350 and was perfectly well behaved for the 8 months that I had it (other than a flasher unit expiring). I remember being shocked just how much the windscreen would ice up inside, and duly sold it in November to a guy who was going to drive it daily! It's still alive and now, apparently, black! (Update - it's now silver!!!)

      1989 Volvo 340 DL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1989 Volvo 340 DL. G67 AVN. I bought this for £80. Unbelievable. It was utterly bloody perfect. I wanted to do a banger rally which is why the guy gave it to me so cheap. I'm still yet to do that rally, but no longer have the car. I sold it for about £300 to a family who were clearly down on their luck who, I hope, still have the car.

      1996 Toyota Granvia by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1996 Toyota Granvia. N775 JEV. My wife and I decided to increase our numbers further and, with our 4th son on the way, larger transport was required. We quickly realised you can either have 4 children and no apparel, or apparel and no children. After trying a very tired Mercedes Viano, the Granvia was found for 1/4 of the price and it's still here 2 years later. I can safely say that we'll never sell it - it really is another member of the family.

      1993 Mercedes 190e by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1993 Mercedes 190e. L795 COJ. I've admired these cars since I was a child. In fact, one of the very few toy cars I still have from my childhood is a Mercedes 190e. Regular readers of "Memoirs from the Hard Shoulder" will know what a PITA this car has been since day 1, but I get the feeling it's a keeper. We'll see!

      1983 Ford Sierra Base 1.6 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1983 Ford Sierra Base. GVG 510Y. Not explicitly my car, but it should be documented here for reference. Oh - and the V5 is in my name. The story is online for all to read as to how five of us acquired what is believed to be the only remaining Ford Sierra Base. Make a brew and read it, it's a fantastic story.

      1982 Ford Sierra L by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1982 Ford Sierra L. LCR 503Y. I accidentally won this on ebay for £520. Upon reflection, I shouldn't have sold it - but short stop of saying I regret it. I could never get truly comfortable driving it and, in fairness, I could scratch my Sierra itch with the base if I wanted. Sold it at a stupid profit of £1250. It is believed to be the oldest remaining Ford Sierra in the UK.

      1979 Volvo 343 DL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1979 Volvo 343 DL. DBY 466T As you'll see above, I'd had a 360GLT as a younger lad and fancied one of these earlier cars. The variomatic is, frankly, terrible but amusing. This car has just 8000 miles on the clock and inside was absolutely timewarp. Sadly, the huge bill for the Mercedes 190e cylinder head rebuild meant I had to sell this car shortly after acquiring it. Since then I've had a bit of money luck, and now realise I didn't need to sell it after all. Typical.

      I think that's it. My arthritis is playing up even more now. I've left out a few cars that were actually my wife's, but if I find pictures will add them in at a later date. I'll run this as an ongoing thread on cars and what's happening.

      Current SitRep:

      Purple Avensis: Just about to click over 185,000. Minor drama this week when an HT lead split but otherwise utterly fantastic, fantastically boring and boringly reliable.

      Granvia: Just done 1000 miles in a month around Norfolk, 6 up with suitcases. 31mpg achieved on the way up which is good for an old tub with a 3.0 Turbo Diesel on board. ODO displaying 175,000 which is a mix of miles and kilometers. Say 130,000 miles for argument's sake.

      Mercedes: Being a PITA. It's had the top end completely rebuilt after the chain came off. Now needs welding to pass another MOT and the gearbox bearings are on strike. It's about to go into the garage for winter until I can stomach it again. 151,000 miles on the clock.

      Sierra bASe: Still on sabbatical with AngryDicky who only took it bloody camping in cornwall! Legend.
    • By SiC
      Big thanks to Panhard65 for transporting this for me.


       
      Now unloaded and waiting for me to start work on it. First time I've seen it outside. I think Panhard65 thinks it's a bit of a turd but doesn't want to be nasty.

       
      Entertaining Mrs SiC friends today, so I need to put these away from kids hurting themselves. Going to live in the garden for a month undercover. If I can get the 1275 in there running, these will be sold on. If I can't, I'll see if I can get any of these in.

       
      For now, I have to earn some more goodwill credits with Mrs SiC.
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