Jump to content

Project Capri. Back on the road! New earths.


danthecapriman

Recommended Posts

I've got some of that!  Bloody good stuff, the paint they do is very nice too.

It is good stuff! I've got none left now after using it on this. It's never failed on anything I've tried it on so far though.

I was looking at the rocker cover wondering how best to strip it. I was going to try brake fluid but then remembered I had this!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only problem with them is the paint they paint them with is shoite and burns off quickly, this one didnt actually come painted in the black paint, in hindsite i should have painted it in bbq paint, thats only surface corrosion so I still could

attachicon.gif20170719_191744.jpg

I've just been looking at the Ashley manifolds, they seem pretty good and not too pricey.

 

How do they fit to the rest of the exhaust system though?

Presumably you simply bin the cast manifold and first downpipe section then just slide the centre and rear sections onto the new Ashley pipe? I was wondering about pipe dimension differences new - old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have only ever gone and got stainless exhausts made to the manifolds at my local powerflow (guaranteed for life no worries then and you can have them as loud or as quiet as you like) but there would be nothing stopping you making a sleeve to fit a standard one up to it, if it helps i would happily measure pipe diameters and overall dimensions next time im outside which will probably be friday, iirc the pipe at the end of the 4 branch is 2 1/4"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the manifold/downpipe I've seen,

 

http://capriclub.co.uk/Exhausts-Manifolds/manifold-pinto

 

And here's an exhaust system,

 

http://capriclub.co.uk/Exhausts-Manifolds/Pinto-2-inch-exit

 

I 'think' they should go together? I'm not sure though if it's going to be a bit boy racer for my tastes!?

I've still got my old mild steel system, the tailpipe diameter is 1 3/4 inch. I don't really want to fit it after the shell comes home though as it will look like arse on a pristine shell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that system goes with the manifold but the systems are loud, a bespoke stainless from powerflow won't be a world apart from the price of that and guaranteed for life and you can specify the volume of the system and tailpipe design, you could even just have a length of stainless pipe so it looks more original if you so chose, food for thought

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that system goes with the manifold but the systems are loud, a bespoke stainless from powerflow won't be a world apart from the price of that and guaranteed for life and you can specify the volume of the system and tailpipe design, you could even just have a length of stainless pipe so it looks more original if you so chose, food for thought

I think I'll do what you say. Get one of the Ashley manifolds then take the car to someone like Powerflow for a full system. I'd like to keep it about standard really noise wise.

 

I'm going to probably leave the manifold off for now anyway as it'll make fitting the engine back into the car a bit easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just had an email from the guy doing this. It's going very well apparently!

 

They've reached the point where they require a payment, so this means ill be visiting the bank on Friday then going round to pay and have a good look at what's been getting done.

From what's been said, prep and paint isn't a long way off now!

 

I'm well pleased tbh, as it finally looks like things are actually moving forward. This of course begs the question... What the fuck were the last place fucking playing at for the money I was charged!?

The more I think about this the more it's making me angry!

 

Anyway, fingers crossed I'll have some up to date pics of some rust free Capri porn for you by the end of the week! Stay tuned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went to see the Capri today.

 

OH MY FUCKING GOD!!

It's looking seriously good. And they were working away on it when I arrived too which was good!

 

I've had a chat with the owner of the bodyshop and he says it's going very well, very little in the way of problems and it's going together brilliantly. The only thing really was with the new rear quarters, they are repro panels and some of the edges and folds weren't quite as defined as they should be, almost like they were made using old worn tooling. So they've had some additional work to improve this.

I asked him how well the previous place had done the work they'd done. He said it has been done and pretty well too, only criticism was that he thought they had scrimped a bit on the spot welds. So he's gone over it all and doubled them up just to sure. Which is good.

There was one issue however. It seems when the last place sent the car for blasting whoever blasted it did it badly.

There is sadly a fair bit of heat distortion on the bonnet caused by excessive heat building up during blasting. This shouldn't have happened had it been done properly. There's a little bit on the roof too. It's nothing that can't be put right but it's annoying that it's happened.

 

So what's been done?

So far I've spent £2500. This has got me the front end completed with the exception of the front wings being welded on. The nos front panel/valance is fully fitted, both inner wings are finished and the inner wing top mounting bands are both on.

Both rear quarters have been removed in full aswell as the inner lower rear corners and the same for both rear inner arch bowls. One side has been just about fully rebuilt too, the quarter panel is fully welded on as is the inner lower rear corner and arch bowl. The other side is well underway being rebuilt.

Also, there's been various repairs around the car as required.

All this was done in just under two weeks!

When I arrived they showed me the seam where the old rear quarter had been cut off, the strip where the two panels spot weld together (inner frame to outer panel). It was rusty (surface rust only) along the seam and they are treating all this as they go along by cleaning it all back. Good attention to detail I think. Also the inner bits of various panels are being painted/treated as required too.

 

Over the next few days the remaining rear quarter area will be completed and the new rear panel fitted.

This just leaves the two doors, the rusty bit in the tailgate shut area and a few bits around the boot floor. Then of course there's the priming, flatting, and then paint.

It's not a million miles off the paint stage now! Speaking of paint, they asked about colour. He knew I was looking at Miami blue so he had a small sample pot mixed up. It looks lovely so I've decided that's the way to go without a doubt!

 

I did get a few pics but I'm struggling to get them off my work phone for some reason!? Might need to try downloading them on the PC later.

I'm really impressed so far though, unbelievable progress being made and really does beg the question what the last place were pissing about doing, absolute joke!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just ordered the last few bits for the engine:

Clutch kit (3 different types, of course the one I need was the most expensive!).

HT leads, old ones are letting the side down as they look horrible on my nice clean engine.

Coolant temp sensor.

Rear crank seal.

Alternator, I was going to clean up the original since it works ok but the back plug is damaged and it's not in great visual condition so I've got an identical original Lucas part. Should look much better.

 

I've also decided to stick with the cars original exhaust manifold (god, I'm an indecisive sod!). I do think the tubular manifold would work better than the cast original but the original looks stock so I'll stick with it. Based on that I've also got some silver barbecue paint for it.

I think once the above bits arrive I'll have them fitted in a day or so which should see the engine finished. The gearbox and axle are already finished and painted too ready to be refitted to the car. Shouldn't be too long now before that happens...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update on the engine.

 

36247272281_e42a95d288_o.jpgIMG_0564 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

Got the exhaust manifold cleaned up. The original heat shield was long gone however, it rusted away and snapped off when I first got the car leaving two sheared bolts where it was on the manifold top.

I filed these down flat, centre punched them and drilled out the remains of the bolts in my pillar drill then used a tap set to cut new threads.

Two odd spare bolts and washers were dug out of my spares box and I've made a new heat shield out of an off cut of 1.2mm steel. It's not perfect or an exact replica (original was a pressed piece) but it looks much better than leaving the broken bolts and it should have the shield so now does!

This was then followed up with some paint.

I couldn't find any barbecue paint locally so I've got some high heat stove paint instead in silver. I thought the black would be a bit much black as the block is black too. The silver stands out nicely I think. No idea how long it'll last but for now it looks good anyway!

After installing the new gaskets and lifting eye I went around with the same paint and touched in all the exposed manifold studs/nuts then painted the last bits of the cylinder head with black enamel.

 

I've also fitted the new temperature sender and HT leads.

The new alternator was the wrong one though so that's going back for a refund! The new clutch is here and looks right and I've got the new rear crank seal too. Just waiting for a new clutch alignment tool, once that's here the engine should be finished in a day or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! I might not put it in the car, I might put it in the living room in place of the TV! I'm well pleased with it tbh.

 

Aside from actually rebuilding the car when it comes back home, the only major part left that needs a bit of tlc is the prop shaft. That's my next job.

It'll be getting a good clean up, repaint and probably new UJ's etc too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the paint - I've often seen on the instructions that you should gradually increase the temperature that it's exposed to. Not sure if yours is the same but it does make a big difference. I've baked stuff in the oven before starting at 100 degrees C and upping it slowly to 250, and then it'll withstand a direct flame from a blowtorch!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a bit more done this morning. I was going to try to get the engine finished before starting anything else but as I'm still waiting on a last few things for the engine to be delivered I decided to have a go at the prop shaft.

 

The one on this car is a boggo two piece unit, standard for the OHC cars.

I seem to remember it being quite rusty but on exhuming it from the bottom of a stack of other parts found it's not actually too bad at all.

I've checked the UJ's, they all seem to be nice and smoother and still flexible with no slop or noise so I think I'll leave them alone, at least for now. There were no problems at all with them when I was using the car either.

The centre bearing however was rather harsh sounding and felt rough when rotated so that does need changing. The big rubber doughnut will be changed too.

 

36045185450_4be72d1f2e_o.jpgIMG_0592 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

36304868491_f4778c74a2_o.jpgIMG_0591 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Here I've marked both halves up with chalk and a stamped dot ready to split the two halves. It's got to go back in the same place.

 

Next was to slacken the centre bolt in the centre UJ yoke and slide out the key washer (U shaped washer that locks both halves together). Once that's out the two parts slide apart.

Once their separated you can pull the bearing carrier and rubber doughnut off revealing the bearing itself.

 

36304852901_023c76c1ed_o.jpgIMG_0597 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Here's the splines after the old bearing was removed.

It came off dead easy using nothing more than two screwdrivers to prise it off! I expected a right battle!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36045176940_9474193d78_o.jpgIMG_0596 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Here's the original bearing carrier.

I'll be cleaning this up and reusing it.

 

36441907605_cfea780ae8_o.jpgIMG_0595 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

New bearing and rubber doughnut alongside the old parts.

 

36304850821_eb8bf1846c_o.jpgIMG_0598 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

I cleaned up the splines and bearing surface with degreaser then packed grease into the new bearing. They come pre greased but I've rammed a load more in just to be sure!

I used a big deep socket and copper hammer to beat the new bearing into place.

 

36304848521_6fea374111_o.jpgIMG_0599 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

This is where I'm up to now.

I've scrubbed the bearing carrier with a wire brush and coated it in Bilt Hamber deox gel rust remover. It's much cleaner than a wire wheel and grinder!

Once that's cured then washed off I'll reassemble it and put the prop halves back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The deox gel is now washed off, it's got the majority of the rust and crud off and it looks much better.

 

I'm painting it now as it's much easier to do properly while it's off and the rubber doughnut is out the way.

 

35635744643_dc6c787412_o.jpgIMG_0600 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

I've used the leftover engine enamel, it's got a nice shiny finish which will look good with the gearbox and rear axle which are already in the same paint.

For the carrier I'm going to use the Ford blue, not how it would look originally but it breaks up the mass of black, and just makes more of a feature of it! No idea why I'm bothering really as the only time it's going to be seen is by the MOT man, but hey, it's nice to do a nice job.

I'll get a few more coats of blue on this, then stick the rubber doughnut in and rebuild the prop back up. Then I'll give that a good wipe off and clean up before painting that in black.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paints dry so I've started reassembly and cleaning of the main prop shaft.

 

36414742346_7d43c2b0d2_o.jpgIMG_0602 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

One half scrubbed with a wire brush then degreased. Aside from years worth of dried old oil gunge and surface rust it seems fine and came up well. The green sticker was under all the grime! I've left it on but cleaned it up and since painted around it. Probably not worth keeping really but since it's lasted all this time it's nice to keep.

 

36460597435_635ebd31c9_o.jpgIMG_0601 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

Here's the painted bearing carrier with the new rubber doughnut installed.

I'll paint the tops of the mounting tabs after it's all built back up.

 

36460587635_b3e4fb7342_o.jpgIMG_0603 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

First coat of black on the two prop halves. Looks much better!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just had an email from the bodyman...

 

This is it!!

The welding is all finished! They're just finishing off the last couple of odds and ends then it's going to be prep and primer going on.

Fucking get in!! At this rate I'll have the thing back home in no time.

 

I'm going to give them a call tomorrow, see how he'd like the next payment and I'll drop by again see how it's looking.

 

Last time I went I took some pics on my work phone and I can not get them off the stupid thing. I'll try to get some pics next time on my iPad instead but the body shop have been taking pics as they went so once I've got the car and their pics back I'll post them up here too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent!  Make sure its all seam sealed and had some stone guard spayed underneath before it goes in for paint.  Since you've had your car blasted the factory seam sealer and stone guard will probably be gone.  Its much better to do it before the paint goes on and its important to have that protection back in the shell.  Takes a least 1 day to do it and is probably one of my least favourite jobs.

 

post-20612-0-29539100-1502301404_thumb.jpgpost-20612-0-33309400-1502301415_thumb.jpg

 

I'm sure its all in hand but wanted to say just in case.  Wouldn't want it forgotten after all that work!

 

Look forward to seeing more!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Rich,

It's going to get exactly what you say. Seam sealed, then the bottom/underside/arches will get a stonechip style coating then body colour over the lot. I'll have a chat when I go regardless just so I'm sure and they know what I'm expecting.

 

I've just been printing off some mk2 pics so they can get a good idea for locations for the various badges and aerial on the wing. I'll take those bits with me too so they can pre-drill the holes for them. That way the edges of the holes will be painted when the car gets sprayed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing your car only has badges on the tailgate so if its not been replaced the holes should still be there.  I prefer to fix the badges on as per original but there is certainly a debate to be had about drilling or not drilling holes.  I've yet to see a car that has rotted badly from a badge hole but I suppose it can happen.

 

When fitting the badges/trim clips I put some wax or grease on the pins to help fight against any corrosion.  The badge pins have little plastic sleeves over them which avoids damaging the paint.  They are usually missing or broken so well worth getting some new ones when the time comes.

 

I'm building a mk1 Capri 2.0GT from a shell at the moment and all the little bits of trim and badges for that are proving rather time consuming.  Surprising how much smaller a hole gets once the car has been painted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could you not just cut the lugs off the badges and stick them on with modern double sided pads?

Drilling unnecessary holes in new panels seems asking for trouble , a base spec wouldn't have had a factory aerial either!

I could do that, but all my badges still have the lugs and it'd be a bit of a shame to cut them. You make a very good point though, the 'L' badge (early style L only used on 74 cars) is a factory stick on badge oddly.

The aerial, as you say wouldn't have been there from new. But this car has had a Radiomobile radio installed probably not long after it was new which I like. As part of that install it received a genuine aerial. Oddly this had been fitted on the wrong side of the car on the drivers wing!

This time around I'll fit it on the passenger wing as most other mk2's seem to be.

 

 

 

I'm guessing your car only has badges on the tailgate so if its not been replaced the holes should still be there.  I prefer to fix the badges on as per original but there is certainly a debate to be had about drilling or not drilling holes.  I've yet to see a car that has rotted badly from a badge hole but I suppose it can happen.

 

When fitting the badges/trim clips I put some wax or grease on the pins to help fight against any corrosion.  The badge pins have little plastic sleeves over them which avoids damaging the paint.  They are usually missing or broken so well worth getting some new ones when the time comes.

 

I'm building a mk1 Capri 2.0GT from a shell at the moment and all the little bits of trim and badges for that are proving rather time consuming.  Surprising how much smaller a hole gets once the car has been painted.

Mines got F O R D letters (pinned badges for below the tailgate release button) and the Capri badge (pinned). I've also got an early style 'L' badge also for the tailgate. And I've got the red italic II logo as a vinyl for beneath the Capri badge. All for the tailgate.

 

Also I've got a pair of (pinned) '1.6' wing badges. These go on the front wings just between the arch and door.

 

I also have a full set of new pin badge clips with the metal retainer and rubber/plastic bits ready to go (don't I plan ahead!).

 

I'll see what they say when I go I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's how mine looks, but with a Radiomobile like this,

 

2577470823_30395f511d_o.jpgDifferent bit of DAF Dash by Kate, on Flickr

 

Mines black instead of silver though.

 

My car being a base spec should have a black crackle finish facia though instead of wood effect. I've still got the original but it's been cut for a modern radio irritatingly. That's why I got the wood effect type instead.

The Radiomobile might cover the cuts in the original, but I like the wood type!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Payed the next chunk this morning. I spoke to the guy doing the work too on the phone then went down to have a quick look and drop off some extra bits...

 

35672732033_5b5de25169_o.jpgIMG_0604 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

36084369100_d29c927f2c_o.jpgIMG_0605 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

36343842141_c71b3247c9_o.jpgIMG_0606 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

36343835911_be60c4b532_o.jpgIMG_0607 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

That's how it looks right now!

The bodywork on the shell and most panels is either finished or will have the final touches done within the next couple of days.

I'm made up with it honestly! It was so nice to walk in and see it assembled like it is, it's even got its characteristic mk2 'face' back again!

So, the front end is fully finished. Inner wings, front valance, headlamp bowls, bonnet, all done and lined up properly. The outer wings are welded on, screen surround and bulkhead finished.

Floors finished, sills finished, rear quarters finished (they'd just been spot welding the arches to the inner arch bowls), rear panel finished and the repairs to the roof in the tailgate shut also finished!

The tailgate itself has been straightened, and the spoiler fixing holes welded up, same for the now deleted rear wiper hole to return the car to 'base' spec. Non of that luxury decadence here!

The fuel filler flap door has also had its Ghia trim holes welded up and is ready for painting.

 

The coating it's wearing now is etch primer. Next steps are to fully seam seal the whole lot where needed, then filling and flatting, then modern car stonechip underseal, then paint! It's not far off now.

As I arrived they had the two doors layed on trestles. One is about to have the lower corners cut out and replaced (rusted through), the other door is the red spare I bought off eBay not long back. The cars original was deemed to be beyond help. The red spare door is in excellent shape so is a better starting point. Both doors will then get new skins before going through the same filling and flatting.

 

 

I'm so pleased with it now. It looks like my Capri again not a half finished half pile of bits mess it was before. Seeing the front end like it is now really has lifted my mood for it all! It's past the point of being messy and now onto the home straight where it starts to look good again.

 

In other news, I've now got my correct part alternator, which can go on to the engine tomorrow. That should finish that off.

The prop shaft is now finished. I got bored last night so went and finished putting that back together!

 

It's finally getting there!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...