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Project Capri. Back on the road! New earths.


danthecapriman

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  • 2 weeks later...

Milestone reached!!

No it’s still not running. I’m close to trying that though. 

I couldn’t do the fuel tank as I can’t lift it up on my own and then bolt it up into place. Hopefully I’ll be able to get that sorted in the next day or so though. I have however, removed the plugs and squirted a little thin oil down each bore in preparation for turning it over. Annoyingly though two of the plugs were rather tight to undo and the porcelain cracked while I was freeing them off, so that’s another reason I can’t start it! The new set should be here in a day or so.

Instead I’ve got on with a bit of the interior. Firstly, here’s a pic of the previously fitted gearstick and handbrake covers. I forgot to get a pic last time.

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Ive decided to go back to using the bog standard gearstick cover instead of the short console. I might change my mind later, maybe not, but for now I’ll go standard and stick to the L spec stuff. I think it is actually a nice and more unusual touch to use this anyway, as the majority of cars have a console of one type or the other!

Next up was to fit the seatbelt reels, as access would be poor with the polythene membrane on. Then the polythene damp membrane to the rear quarter and boot sections. I’m not sure if these were even fitted here originally as I don’t have opening rear windows and the trims are plastic, but it can’t hurt to fit them anyway! These are literally just thick clear poly refuse sacks I had access to, cut to shape and bonded in place with PU adhesive. After that, the same was done for the areas under the rear D windows to close them in and stop damp affecting the backs of the interior trims.

Once that’s gone off, I fitted the brackets, bump stop and latch for the rear seat back, then the two plastic boot trims. These are my original ones, and aren’t 100% perfect but are usable and look decent. I used up a couple of squares of the leftover sound proofing underfelt stuff glued to the backs, as it had originally, just to keep noise and vibration down. Then they simply screw into place with small self tapping screws.

With that done it was time to do something with the rear seat back. While this was re-trimmed about a year or so ago with the rest of the seats, the metal back rest plate (visible in the boot) was still in a shabby battered condition. I was in two minds wether to rub it down and paint it black, as it always was or buy some black automotive trim carpet and trim it in that. In the end I opted to paint it, this being original and if it looked shit then my backup plan of carpet would hide the mess! After a good rub down, a coat of etch primer followed by three coats of black then clear lacquer, it looks shit hot if I do say so! For a rattle can job it’s got a superb finish and shine. How hard it ends up wearing remains to be seen, but I don’t plan on carrying anything once this is all done!

After that was dry the seat backrest could go back in. Simply four bolts, which I did hand tight for now as it needs adjusting once the seat base is back in. After that the two rear quarter trims/cards were dusted off and had a set of new retaining clips added to the backs, the seat belts slid through their little holes and then the cards themselves pushed firmly into place. Finally, the vinyl trim on the end just tucks under the door seal to finish the edge against the door. The two metal interior window trims could also be screwed into place.

The rear seat base was next, this is a piece of piss to fit! It just shoves into place and sits against a big cross member on the floor, then a metal trim and screw hold it to the floor. With that in, the back rest can be adjusted and bolted firm.

So, that’s that. The first seat is now fitted!

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I think it looks fucking lovely!

Theres still bits & bobs to do in the back but the bulk of it is now done. I have also noticed if you look at the rear seat edge, you can see past the seat and it’s tilt hinges and there’s blue paint showing. There’s nothing missing to cover it (that I know of??) so I’ll get some black carpet off cuts and fit them in place behind the seat at some stage. It probably was always like it tbh, but I never noticed. The bright blue paint against the black seats does make it rather noticeable now.

To finish today, I then fitted the little clip that holds the accelerator cable onto the pedal. That was missing so I got a spare off eBay. Not easy to fit now as the under dash area is rather more full than when I did the cable! But it’s now sorted and the cable doesn’t keep falling off the pedal!

Then I put the spare wheel into the boot, fitted the wood cover panel and fitted my new boot carpet. Originally this car just had a rubber boot mat, but it’s absolutely rotten and spilt from over 40 years of sun and use so I can’t really put it back!

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Looks nice imho.

Edit just to add, all the interior trim does still need a clean and buff up with some trim shine. It looks a bit dull in the pics.

more soon.

 

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Tantalisingly close to finished!

The only time I’ve ever been in a Capri was getting a lift up the hill in our neighbour’s orange Mk2 1.6 GL, KGD909N. This would’ve been around 1977.

I’d never been in anything like it. The back seat was amazingly low, and the black interior impossibly cocooning with those swooping curved windows. It was breathtakingly cool.

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1 minute ago, Skizzer said:

It was breathtakingly cool.

Some things never change!?

Thats exactly how I always saw Capri’s, even as a little kid I loved them! There’s just something about them, they look and feel much more than what they actually are. Doing this work on mine has showed a few of the shortcomings and 70’s quality deficiencies, stuff you’d never get away with on cars these days, but you know what? I don’t care! They are so cool still!

I sat on my back seat after it was all in and done! Very nice, comfortable and the base has that soft springy feel to it that old car seats have. Only thing is, my god the rear roof is low!! I can’t remember it like that before (though it must have been!) but then again I never used the back seat. I’m 6’ and had to lean forward to stop my head pushing into the headlining. 

 

 

In other news, my new old stock ‘Capri II’ fuel cap arrived, has been polished up and fitted instead of that shitty old non gen one. I’ve also found the boot rubber hold down straps for the tool kit. This cars never had its tool kit since I’ve had it, so, just for show, I’ve bought a good genuine jack and wheel brace off eBay and a new bag for them to be stored in. I’ll rub down the tools and re-paint them in satin black and the bag is like an old potato sack type thing. Should look good in the boot!

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On 5/26/2020 at 7:24 PM, Skizzer said:

The only time I’ve ever been in a Capri...

It was breathtakingly cool.

I've only ever been in a Capri once too - belonged to my then (divorced by 1990) uncle. It would have been in the mid-80s I reckon, and was a yellow 1.3 - I felt so cool being driven around town in a (to my mind) a sports car! I recall my parents being rather disapproving of Uncle Ron, as he was always 'messing with cars' rather than spending time with the family. I bumped into him at my cousin's wedding in 2016, and remember having a great (if slightly drunken) chat with him about cars; he was most taken at my memory of his yellow Capri!

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1 hour ago, Skizzer said:

The only time I’ve ever been in a Capri was getting a lift up the hill in our neighbour’s orange Mk2 1.6 GL, KGD909N. This would’ve been around 1977

 

35 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

I've only ever been in a Capri once too

I'm sure I can assist with that.... Chumley 2025? (At the current rate of work.....)

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I’ve decided today I’m going to try to start this up! I’ve now got the bits I needed so why not.

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First off, I’ve double checked all the basics to make sure I don’t try starting it and something not be connected or something gets damaged! All good in this case.

Old plugs removed and a bit of rag in front of each hole to catch any oil that might get spat out. Battery connected up. Clean oil in the sump and a slug of fresh poured over the top end. I’ve had to Gerry rig a fuel supply as I just can’t get the tank in yet.

Ignition seems to work ok, was a bit lazy at first but I’m putting it down to not being used in years! Turning it over and it seems fine, no untoward noise or anything. It’s also drawn fuel into carb. After that I’ve put the new plugs in, connected up the HT leads and carry on cranking...

...Fuck all!

It cranks over fine, there’s fuel there as the carb’s full and you can smell it. But on checking I’ve got no spark. So far I’ve gone back to the coil, there’s nothing from the king lead on the coil, so it’s likely either the new coil being shit from new or the ignition to the coil.

Im going dig out my multimeter in a min, and probably also rob the coil from my Transit to substitute this one. See what happens.

 

Im not totally disappointed though, so far everything is working as it should, lights etc etc, it turns over well and nothing has burst into flames either!

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No dice I’m afraid!?

1 hour ago, Mally said:

Rotor arm? are you on points/condenser?

It will frighten you when it fires!

It’s on points & condenser still.

 

So far, it’ll crank happily and it’s getting fuel no problem.

Theres no spark whatsoever though. I tested for a spark off the plug end of the HT leads against a good earth - nothing.

Moved back to pulling the king lead off the top of the dizzy, held that against a good earth - still nothing.

Next I did a bit of testing with the multimeter, with the points open.

Tested the wire feeding the coil LT side (+ terminal on coil) (from ignition) - Good volts here.

Tested the other terminal (- terminal on coil) - Good volts here.

Tested the volts on the points (moving point) - Good volts here.

Then tried to substitute my Capri’s new coil for a known Good one from my Transit which gives exactly the same outcome - no spark whatsoever.

Then noticed the LT lead going to the coil + terminal wasn’t great. If you wiggle it it intermittently loses supply. So I cut this off and remade it using a ring connector then a nut and washer to hold it firmly to the coils terminal. Also did this on the other terminal just to be absolutely sure both were good. - still nothing!

Tried using the Transits known Good HT king lead just to prove it wasn’t that - still nothing.

Ive also tested the volts on the moving point (ignition on) with the condenser disconnected - still shows good volts.

Im out of ideas now! The points look good, they’re working. With the cap removed and the car cranking over they open and close fine, no sparks between them.

Could be my old friend, the condenser!? I’ve had a hell of a relationship with these little cunts in the past as the Mercury had a similar issue and it was a constant supply of these little twatty things being duff straight out the boxes! Could this one have expired? It worked when the car last ran. I’ve got none to swap though so can’t try anything yet.

Or something else? Earth issue maybe? But if it was that I’d get a spark from a lead when held against a good clean earth on the body (I was using the bolt head that holds the earth lead to the body).

Fuck knows!? This is beginning to test my patience. And I really don’t have much!

 

I do have a new electronic ignition kit for this, but I’d rather get it to start on its points first just to prove it will work. The last thing I want to do is start adding things and introducing new faults and problems.

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As ever, suggestions welcome! It’ll be something simple/stupid but I’ve lost interest with it for today and put it back in the garage.

 

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3 minutes ago, danthecapriman said:

No dice I’m afraid!?

It’s on points & condenser still.

 

So far, it’ll crank happily and it’s getting fuel no problem.

Theres no spark whatsoever though. I tested for a spark off the plug end of the HT leads against a good earth - nothing.

Moved back to pulling the king lead off the top of the dizzy, held that against a good earth - still nothing.

Next I did a bit of testing with the multimeter, with the points open.

Tested the wire feeding the coil LT side (+ terminal on coil) (from ignition) - Good volts here.

Tested the other terminal (- terminal on coil) - Good volts here.

Tested the volts on the points (moving point) - Good volts here.

Then tried to substitute my Capri’s new coil for a known Good one from my Transit which gives exactly the same outcome - no spark whatsoever.

Then noticed the LT lead going to the coil + terminal wasn’t great. If you wiggle it it intermittently loses supply. So I cut this off and remade it using a ring connector then a nut and washer to hold it firmly to the coils terminal. Also did this on the other terminal just to be absolutely sure both were good. - still nothing!

Tried using the Transits known Good HT king lead just to prove it wasn’t that - still nothing.

Ive also tested the volts on the moving point (ignition on) with the condenser disconnected - still shows good volts.

Im out of ideas now! The points look good, they’re working. With the cap removed and the car cranking over they open and close fine, no sparks between them.

Could be my old friend, the condenser!? I’ve had a hell of a relationship with these little cunts in the past as the Mercury had a similar issue and it was a constant supply of these little twatty things being duff straight out the boxes! Could this one have expired? It worked when the car last ran. I’ve got none to swap though so can’t try anything yet.

Or something else? Earth issue maybe? But if it was that I’d get a spark from a lead when held against a good clean earth on the body (I was using the bolt head that holds the earth lead to the body).

Fuck knows!? This is beginning to test my patience. And I really don’t have much!

 

I do have a new electronic ignition kit for this, but I’d rather get it to start on its points first just to prove it will work. The last thing I want to do is start adding things and introducing new faults and problems.

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As ever, suggestions welcome! It’ll be something simple/stupid but I’ve lost interest with it for today and put it back in the garage.

 

There's only so many things it can be. Wires, connections, coil, condenser.  Try turning it over in the dark. You might be see leakage of sparks better. 

I was going to say put the spark plugs in the oven.  I had done the head on an 850.mini, but had a spark, had cleaned out carb, had fuel etc. Phoned up a mate and that's what he suggested. Started first time. 

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Cheers chaps.

Ive ordered a couple of new condensers, and a set of points. I’ve got the older Motorcraft distributor instead of Bosch but I don’t think it matters.

I had a bloody nightmare on the Mercury with these. I must have gone through 8 or 9 new ones before I landed one that worked! The quality just isn’t there anymore it seems with them. Trouble is, you get a couple of crap ones and start thinking the problem must be something else, but it’s just shit parts! I got that running in the end, then once satisfied everything was ok changed to electronic ignition and it’s been perfect since. Which is my plan with this. But it should be up to working on the old system first really.

 

I’ll try pre warming the plugs next time if I can get a spark. I usually have to do that with my 110v/240v generator in winter. I just hold the plug over a blow torch for a while which seems to get it going most times.

Your dead right though, there’s not really much it can be on a car like this!

 

Must admit, poncing around with car electrics is definitely not one of my strong points!

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I think that every Capri I’ve owned has a small earth strap that runs from the rear of block to a self tapper-type hole in the centre of the heater box steelwork  I  can’t see if there is one on your car in the pics. Could also try running a  jump lead from the block to the body somewhere just to eliminate earths?

One 2.8i I had was using the clutch cable as an earth as the connection between the block and battery negative was loose, needless to say it melted the cable and gear selection impossible!! 

 

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2 hours ago, danthecapriman said:

Theres no spark whatsoever though. I tested for a spark off the plug end of the HT leads against a good earth - nothing.

Moved back to pulling the king lead off the top of the dizzy, held that against a good earth - still nothing.

Next I did a bit of testing with the multimeter, with the points open.

Tested the wire feeding the coil LT side (+ terminal on coil) (from ignition) - Good volts here.

Tested the other terminal (- terminal on coil) - Good volts here.

Tested the volts on the points (moving point) - Good volts here.

When you say good volts, what are you measuring, and where is each meter probe? With the points open, assuming the negative probe is earthed, if you are reading battery voltage that proves the coil isn't open circuit (but doesn't prove the high voltage is finding another path...)

Do you have a dwell meter, or rpm setting on your meter? That way you can check whether the coil - terminal is getting the correct pulsed short to earth.

The other question is, are you checking the coil + terminal *whilst cranking*? This is when the coil is fed via the ballast resistor, and if that has failed/not connected properly, it would mean that the coil only sees a good voltage when the starter *isn't* spinning. Which is of little use to start your engine!

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As others have said check your engine earth strap is fitted between the engine and bulkhead.  I can't see it in the picture.

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Worth checking for a short on that terminal in the distributor for the points if you have a strap fitted. 

With the points open there should be no connection between that terminal and the distributor body.  If so you'll never get a spark as the voltage in the wire to the points will just drop to the engine block.  With a good coil and stable ignition live to the coil you should get a spark at the points.  No spark suggests a constant short circuit to the vehicle body or no route to the body when the points are closed.

When it runs you might find it not charging.  Cleaning the mount points of the alternator brackets back to bare metal will allow the alternator to earth to the block and start charging.

Good luck!

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Cheers all.

1 hour ago, big_al_granvia said:

used to hate points when i was an apprentice, now i look at the wiring and go "what the fuck", the period with leccy ignition was okay

 

Yeah, I’m not good with electronics! I struggle with even basic electrical drawings even on cars like this. I haven’t got a clue what half the shit on my multimeter does either. Mind you I can’t use computers, haven’t got a clue how to use my own phone, can’t even use my own TV for anything other than switching on! I’m a total Neanderthal! Working on big high voltage stuff is a piece of piss though at work, funnily enough!

33 minutes ago, Steviemillar said:

I think that every Capri I’ve owned has a small earth strap that runs from the rear of block to a self tapper-type hole in the centre of the heater box steelwork  I  can’t see if there is one on your car in the pics. Could also try running a  jump lead from the block to the body somewhere just to eliminate earths?

One 2.8i I had was using the clutch cable as an earth as the connection between the block and battery negative was loose, needless to say it melted the cable and gear selection impossible!! 

 

You might well be onto something here. As far as I can tell, mine has only a single earth point for the engine which is the lead that bolts to the side of the engine just under/to the side of the dizzy, this goes up to the battery N terminal and tee’s off to a bolt onto the inner wing. I’ve got nothing else. But I did clean the block, inner wing and the leads terminals & bolt before putting it back on. I’ll try adding a jump lead across as an extra next time.

34 minutes ago, nigel bickle said:

it’s the points, mate. Run a bit of sandpaper between them a few times. That’ll sort it. No need to go to big expense.

I’ll try that next time too. They could have glazed over?

31 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

When you say good volts, what are you measuring, and where is each meter probe? With the points open, assuming the negative probe is earthed, if you are reading battery voltage that proves the coil isn't open circuit (but doesn't prove the high voltage is finding another path...)

Do you have a dwell meter, or rpm setting on your meter? That way you can check whether the coil - terminal is getting the correct pulsed short to earth.

The other question is, are you checking the coil + terminal *whilst cranking*? This is when the coil is fed via the ballast resistor, and if that has failed/not connected properly, it would mean that the coil only sees a good voltage when the starter *isn't* spinning. Which is of little use to start your engine!

I tested with the points held open by a piece of plastic. Negative probe to earth, ignition switched on. Tested with the Live probe to the lead from the ignition switch - 12.5v ish. Then the same test onto the - terminal on the coil - 12.5v ish. Then same again on the moving points contact - 12.5v ish.

I didn’t try testing while cranking. I should have in hindsight! The volts could have been disappearing during cranking I suppose.

No idea if my multimeter has dwell or RPM etc, I honestly haven’t got a fucking clue with stuff like that. I can’t even use my own TV...?

31 minutes ago, Tamworthbay said:

A condenser is just a capacitor, so if you suspect they are an issue just buy a capacitor of the correct rating (should be on the condenser) and try that. Electronics from places like RS, or even eBay are more reliable that the repro car bits.

Very true. Again though, I don’t have a clue about electronics! I have no idea what I’d need.

This shit is the exact sort of problem I could have done without tbh. If it was any other problem I’d probably have no issue sorting it out. Electronic stuff though, forget it!

5 minutes ago, TripleRich said:

As others have said check your engine earth strap is fitted between the engine and bulkhead.  I can't see it in the picture.

117185040_EarthStrap.thumb.JPG.928cd052b748d6e275a1dc858401cd22.JPG

Worth checking for a short on that terminal in the distributor for the points if you have a strap fitted. 

With the points open there should be no connection between that terminal and the distributor body.  If so you'll never get a spark as the voltage in the wire to the points will just drop to the engine block.  With a good coil and stable ignition live to the coil you should get a spark at the points.  No spark suggests a constant short circuit to the vehicle body or no route to the body when the points are closed.

When it runs you might find it not charging.  Cleaning the mount points of the alternator brackets back to bare metal will allow the alternator to earth to the block and start charging.

Good luck!

Yep, I am missing that wire then! It’s definitely not fitted on mine. However, I think I do have the wire! It was in a box with other stuff, no label on it either and I wondered wtf it was for! Now I know! Where does the engine end of it attach to?

Mine has a crimped on ring connection one end (must screw to bulkhead) and bare wire strands the other end (engine end?) I think it’s connector has come off, presumably should be another crimped ring?

Ill have a really good look at this tomorrow, it sounds like this might well be my issue. Or at least one of them!

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Thinking about this,

Assuming my condenser was fucked, in theory I’d still get a spark? A shitty one, yes. But it still show a weak spark of some sort wouldn’t it?

If my problem is indeed, no earth strap, that would explain the fact I’ve got absolutely nothing? 

There is literally no spark whatsoever. It’s not even trying. You can touch the bare end of the HT lead and crank it and it doesn’t do anything. Yes, I tried!

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19 minutes ago, danthecapriman said:

Yep, I am missing that wire then! It’s definitely not fitted on mine. However, I think I do have the wire! It was in a box with other stuff, no label on it either and I wondered wtf it was for! Now I know! Where does the engine end of it attach to?

Mine has a crimped on ring connection one end (must screw to bulkhead) and bare wire strands the other end (engine end?) I think it’s connector has come off, presumably should be another crimped ring?

There will be a threaded hole on your cylinder head, it’ll be on the rear end of the head at the passenger side facing the bulkhead. if I remember correctly. The wire will have a crimped ring at each end with a “loose” black insulating cover on it. 

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7 minutes ago, Steviemillar said:

There will be a threaded hole on your cylinder head, it’ll be on the rear end of the head at the passenger side facing the bulkhead. if I remember correctly. The wire will have a crimped ring at each end with a “loose” black insulating cover on it. 

Top man, cheers!

Im fairly certain I’ve got that wire. I’ll have a look tomorrow.

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