Project Project Capri. Back on the road! New earths.

[Austat]

Came across this whilst looking through some old photos I took a while back. I remember seeing this very rare Miami Blue MK2 Capri in Melbourne, Australia at Motorclassica 2013 or '14. It was quite striking for me as we only got the MK1 in Aus, so most likely a private import. 

Progress is looking good by the way. Are you keeping the original plates with the 3D numerals?

[danthecapriman]

That mk2 looks nice, I love the little stripe on the side, very 70’s! I thought you guys in Oz did get the mk2? Obviously not then. I thought you got German built mk1 and 2 models but not the mk3. Still, it looks like your amazing climate is doing its bodywork a lot of good!

 

The number plates on mine will be getting changed for modern plastic plates with modern font text.

 

Just kidding!

Ill be keeping the old ally plates with the raised plastic text. The way it should be.

Im chemically stripping the rust and grime off the bumper irons, corner brackets and front number plate brackets at the moment. I’ve chosen the best ones off my other two sets of bumpers so they’re a bit of a mix! I know you won’t see much of these parts but I want everything to be in the best condition it can be regardless. The bumper irons were a bit of a tough choice as one of the left hand ones was very rusty and the other left one was slightly bent! I’ve opted to straighten the bent one and use that so hopefully it’ll let the bumper sit right still!

Oddly, I’ve found that there’s actually two different types of front number plate brackets. The two I’ve chosen to use (from my original bumpers) let the plate itself hang down almost beneath the bumper. The other type (on the scrap yard bumpers) let the plate sit fully up directly in front of the bumper. No idea why they made two types! I prefer my original type tbh, as you can see more of the chrome bumper!

They should all be painted by today so hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to fit the bumpers to the car.

 

[danthecapriman]

Got more done today.

Firstly though, the front bumper irons, corner brackets and number plate brackets are all clean and freshly painted now but (I forgot to take a before pic!) when first removed from the old bumpers they were all filthy, and very crusty rusty horrible looking things. I wire brushed them down and cleaned them up by hand then dumped them into a tub full of POR15 rust remover solution. I’ve used stuff like this before, and while they all work to some degree, I’ve never had a result like this!

This is how they came out of the tub after being left in it overnight.

Almost every trace of rust gone! And it even managed to lift off some of the stubborn remaining old paint too! Good stuff.

Heres all the brackets etc finished and painted ready to go back on.

And the old number plate salvaged from the original bumper.

 

Rear bumper first. Dead easy this one, four nuts with a big penny washer and spring washer on each. I’ve greased all the threads too. Just in case!

Next I was waiting for the last few bolts to finish soaking in the rust remover so while I was waiting I decided to fill the cooling system with ready mixed blue antifreeze. Obviously I can’t bleed it all properly until it’s running (not long for that now hopefully!) but I’ve filled it up, squeezed all the hoses to burp air out and left it full. First time it’s had coolant inside the engine in four years!

No leaks either so far which is always good.

 

 

Front bumper now.

This was a pig to fit! The big bumper irons went on easy enough. They just bolt to the sides of the inner wing/chassis with two bolts each. Getting the two corner brackets on and lined up with the holes for their bolts on the wings was a nightmare. I can only assume this is down to the front end being a real mix up of new panels (all genuine Ford though) and possibly also the bumpers being from another car and the brackets and irons from about 3 different cars! I guess it just takes a bit of trial and error to get all those different bits to go together properly!

got there in the end but the nearside corner didn’t half resist my efforts!

Once again, all the bolts and threads have been greased. And I’ve painted the nut/bolt heads in black too so they don’t rust and look ugly.

[Shite Ron]

The Capri is looking fantastic, this is a very interesting restoration I didn’t realise it is an M reg, one of the first. Very nice?

[danthecapriman]

5 minutes ago, Shite Ron said:

The Capri is looking fantastic, this is a very interesting restoration I didn’t realise it is an M reg, one of the first. Very nice?

Thanks!

yes, it’s very very early for a mk2. It’s actually so early it’s still using up the last of the mk1 parts bin for a lot of parts on it! There’s a few differences between the earliest mk2’s and the later ones.

 

Also, forgot to mention. I haven’t fitted the front number plate as I’m waiting for a couple of new chrome dome headed bolts for attaching the brackets to the bumper. The old ones were all a bit too rough or seized solid for reusing.

[Dick Longbridge]

Wow, not looked in on this thread for some time. It's looking fantastic! Is the blue original to the car? That back end fitted with an M plate just looks strange - the design was pretty svelte for its time wasn't it?! 

Great work and I'm still very jealous of the fact that you've managed to hang onto the old girl for so long. 

[danthecapriman]

5 minutes ago, Dick Longbridge said:

Wow, not looked in on this thread for some time. It's looking fantastic! Is the blue original to the car? That back end fitted with an M plate just looks strange - the design was pretty svelte for its time wasn't it?! 

Great work and I'm still very jealous of the fact that you've managed to hang onto the old girl for so long. 

Cheers!

The blue isn’t original to this car, but it is from the 74 Ford colour chart. I just picked it this time as it’s my favourite colour for Fords of this age. Though it was a close toss up between Miami blue or Purple Velvet! I think the blue is a nicer colour though. This particular car was Stardust Silver originally, but I thought that colour would be a bit bland and dull for it tbh.

It does look funny with such an old plate on! It’s hard to think these cars are actually that old! I like the mk2 design, they’re a bit ‘softer’ style-wise than the more ‘butch’ mk1 and mk3 I think.

[HMC]

Well done, must be all too easy to scratch the paint when mounting those, I’d be tense all the way through!

[danthecapriman]

9 minutes ago, HMC said:

Well done, must be all too easy to scratch the paint when mounting those, I’d be tense all the way through!

Oh yes! My arse was well puckered while I was putting them on that’s for sure! I had to get help to hold the other end of the bumper while it was lifted in place, then carefully bolt it on. The edges of the bumpers are actually quite sharp underneath, as I managed to slice my finger on one. Didn’t feel it either, just noticed blood appearing everywhere I’d been working!

[Spottedlaurel]

Looking great!

Didn't realise about the two plate fitting options. Just had a look at those on my Flickr account and I have photos of both, definitely looks better below the bumper. Our 1.6 L had it that way.

[Shirley Knott]

Nice to see this edging ever closer to completion, new bumpers look the part too! Spares in that kind of condition must be pretty rare these days, quite the find.

 

[danthecapriman]

17 minutes ago, Shirley Knott said:

Nice to see this edging ever closer to completion, new bumpers look the part too! Spares in that kind of condition must be pretty rare these days, quite the find.

 

Spares are getting more difficult to find now, basic mechanical bits are pretty easy even from local motor factors but other things can be tricky, interior trim in the right colour and style are almost impossible now. You’ve got to work with what you have or get things when they do come up. Annoyingly this also means prices aren’t as cheap as they once were either.

 

17 minutes ago, The Mighty Quinn said:

A solid week and all the bits would surely complete this?

 

Have you been following the Pete C youtube channel - he's that maniac that restores Mark III Cortinas. Superb jobs as well, he's doing a 1971 2000GXL two door automatic, stardust with maroon interior. It's going to be a stunner.

Probably not far off tbh!

*The carpets need fixing down properly.

*gearstick needs fitting.

*handbrake & cables need fitting.

*fuel tank, sender & front to rear pipe need fitting.

*Doors need their handles, operating rods and trims fitting.

*Doors & rear quarters need their interior cards fitting.

*Seats need fitting.

*Exhaust needs fitting.

*Rear view & door mirrors need fitting.

*Front anti-roll bar needs new bushes.

*Boot floor cover board and tailgate trim panel needs fitting.

*Bonnet hook needs fitting and cable attaching/adjusting.

*Engine will get fresh oil and first start up.

Cant think of much else! Probably a few little bits & bobs and the inevitable adjustments as needed but that’s about the bulk of it. It’s not actually all that much when you look at it!

Ive got all the bits I need already to do it all, it’s just time (and weather!). 

Im not sure yet what to do with the exhaust. I’ve still got the one that came off this car which is in really good condition but it’s got a fair bit of surface rust on it. I’m tempted to just clean it up and reuse it tbh. I know it won’t be up to the standard as everything else but it’s only an exhaust! It’s going to go rusty again regardless and will do even if I buy a new one. Not sure yet!?

 

The engine hasn’t been run for about 4 years, but has been stored dry and well. It’s had loads of work done and been cleaned up. It’s got new seals, gaskets and has had clean oil put into it. It’s been turned over by hand a couple of times too. When I go for the first start soon, should I put a few drops of oil down each bore first, then turn it by hand a few times, just so it’s not starting dry? I’ll be changing the oil immediately before trying to start it anyway so the top end will have fresh oil poured over it. Just wondering what’s the best way to go for the first start tbh!

 

 

[nigel bickle]

If the exhaust is original Ford, I'd stick with it -in preference to 'pattern'.

I've heard of zinc spraying very valuable/complex/ rare systems to extend their life & make them look good- but have never investigated myself. Might be an option on this concours monster.

When you prep the engine- spin it on the starter with the plugs out. Doing it by hand -if you haven't rebuilt it- will be a waste of time/energy. The starter should spin it over at a couple of hundred r.p.m; enough to build oil pressure & prewarn of any potentially extraneous noises.

On first start it may well sound 'toppy' for a few seconds. If you have an oil gauge, watch  it closely till it settles. It may well smoke for a minute or two, as residue is burnt off. Keep a bucket of water to hand -initially  as a fire extinguisher |(dodgy fuel lines etc\) then too top up as water circulates.

But, realistically, it'll be fine. its a ford -not some obscure Italian exotic.

Happy to help -if I'm here & its allowed!

[danthecapriman]

10 minutes ago, nigel bickle said:

If the exhaust is original Ford, I'd stick with it -in preference to 'pattern'.

I've heard of zinc spraying very valuable/complex/ rare systems to extend their life & make them look good- but have never investigated myself. Might be an option on this concours monster.

When you prep the engine- spin it on the starter with the plugs out. Doing it by hand -if you haven't rebuilt it- will be a waste of time/energy. The starter should spin it over at a couple of hundred r.p.m; enough to build oil pressure & prewarn of any potentially extraneous noises.

On first start it may well sound 'toppy' for a few seconds. If you have an oil gauge, watch  it closely till it settles. It may well smoke for a minute or two, as residue is burnt off. Keep a bucket of water to hand -initially  as a fire extinguisher |(dodgy fuel lines etc\) then too top up as water circulates.

But, realistically, it'll be fine. its a ford -not some obscure Italian exotic.

Happy to help -if I'm here & its allowed!

Cheers Nige! It’d be good to have had your help for the first start... but thanks to this sodding virus probably not a good idea!

So, it’s not worth bothering putting any oil down the bores?? Just plugs out and spin it over off the starter. Then plugs back in and go for it?

Ill get a little Gerry can rigged up to the pump to use as a temporary fuel tank. It’s got coolant in already. Oil will be freshly changed. That’s about it I think? I’m 99% sure it’ll be ok tbh, it was a brilliant little engine before and it’s not done anything since that’d upset it so short of adjustment to timing, points etc etc it should be ok I’m sure.

 

The exhaust isn’t a Ford part unfortunately. It’s a standard mild steel non gen replacement system I got put on it about 10 years ago. It fits pretty well, has all its brackets etc still and it’s not rotten or anywhere near. It’d be good for several more years yet tbh. It’s just got quite a few patches of surface rust which I’d rather it didn’t have! I’m tempted to get a wire brush on a grinder and skim over it to get the worst of the rust off then give the whole system a blow over with some cheap heat proof paint. I’ve got some silver that I used on the exhaust manifold which would work. It’d only be a year or so before it starts rusting through the paint again though. It might just save me buying another new non gen system that might not fit too well.

Whats the thinking with stainless systems? I’ve never had one, but heard sometimes they’re not great?

[Timewaster]

You should waxoyl the exhaust to protect it ?

[nigel bickle]

Happy to help, mate - if I can!   Looks a sight different from last time I saw it, in Lavant! 

I’d oil the bores now, then leave. You’ll blow it straight out the plug holes if you do it on the day.      A thin oil, not 20/50.  Doesn’t really matter what. 
 

No ‘ right’  answer with the exhaust. Me, I’d do as you suggested, with a clean up & exhaust paint, for now. It’ll prob last years with your planned usage.     Stainless  is a whole separate minefield.   I’d try to hunt down a Ford original for added concours points! 

 

Fuel. Why  Gerry rig this? You’ve cleaned up the tank, fitted  new lines. Why compromise?   2  galls in the tank,  should pull it through quick enough.  Dribble a little direct into the carb if you want a quick start, but I wouldn’t.  Unless your battery is goosed, it’ll go quick enough.  
 

PM if you want a step by step.    Have fun, stay safe etc 

[danthecapriman]

Cheers Nige, your helps always much appreciated. Although I’ve been messing around with old cars quite a long time now, it really helps having someone with a good deal of experience for backup! I’ve never gone so far with a car before this and it’s hard to know what to do for the best sometimes!

Ill dig some oil out a give the bores a little squirt each and let it soak in over the week.

[Mally]

Yes, as Nigel says, bit of oil in the bores now.

If the engine has no oil in now stick a big sign in the car.  NO OIL.  It's easy to get excited and fire it up without oil, ask me how I know.

When you put new oil in engine, soon as it's settled spin it over with the plugs out until the oil pressure comes up.

This will blow spare oil from the cylinders and  hopefully fill the carb. I t will not go first time, but might cough. (happy to be proved wrong though)

I'd clean the exhaust and spray with heat resistant paint, it lasts a while.

Stainless always sounds tinny and can fracture.

[danthecapriman]

Here’s the exhaust after being exhumed from a pile of other assorted old parts.

It’s solid and nowhere near rusting through or failing any time soon, it’s just dirty and surface rust. 

Ill get the grinder out tomorrow and give it a whizz over then silver heat paint. The brackets and clamps are all in good condition so I’ve stripped them apart and they’re soaking in the rust remover solution, then they can be painted the same. The big centre box hanger bracket will be replaced as I’ve got a brand new one already. The front pipe to manifold clamp is also good so that’s also being rust stripped.

I’ve had a dig through my tool chest, in the bottom is an old ammunition box full of junk I rarely use but won’t bin, and in it I’ve found a brand new front pipe to manifold gasket, and several brand new rubber Ford exhaust hangers (the little round ones with two holes through the middle). I’ve washed them and they’re as good as new so they’ll come in handy. They’ve been sat in that box about 15 years!

[mitsisigma01]

I didn't know Ronseal did exhaust paint ?

Which rust soak stuff are you using? 

[mitsisigma01]

Do rust converter paints work? Especially on the areas around welds on the boxes and are they OK on hot parts? 

[Tamworthbay]

9 minutes ago, mitsisigma01 said:

Do rust converter paints work? Especially on the areas around welds on the boxes and are they OK on hot parts? 

Not very well if at all. Far better to use a rust remover like deox C gel from Bilthamber.

[danthecapriman]

22 minutes ago, mitsisigma01 said:

Do rust converter paints work? Especially on the areas around welds on the boxes and are they OK on hot parts? 

I’ve used a few different brands and types on this car, some are shit but some are very good.

The best remover solution I’ve found so far is this https://www.frost.co.uk/por-15-rust-remover-946ml/ It’s only usable for small parts though as the metal must be completely immersed in it and left. I’ve been stripping all my small parts, nuts, bolts etc down then wire brushing any scale & loose rust off then throwing them all into a plastic bowl full of this stuff overnight. It’s brilliant tbh!

For things too big to do that I’ve used Bilt Hamber deox gel. It’s a revolting looking gel that you smear a thick coating of onto a rusty surface then leave to work. After a while you scrub it with a wire brush then wash it off and dry it. It just eats the rust away really.

Or Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 which is just a chemical rust converter paint. Clean up the part then paint it on and leave it to dry. It does work, but how long for I don’t know. I’ve had best results with it by grinding or removing as much of the rust as possible then use the converter after to kill the rust in the pitted metal. I’ve done this on the Volvo in a few places and it hasn’t come back through yet.

 

For hot parts (like my exhaust) I think the remover gel or solution would be best as it doesn’t leave any trace of it behind after it’s done it’s thing. You wash it off and then paint the rust free metal afterwards.

[Tamworthbay]

The guy who started Bilthamber is called Peter Hamber, he cut his teeth working on rust protection on North Sea oil rigs. All of their stuff that I have used has been excellent. Not always the cheapest but quality through and through.

[danthecapriman]

1 hour ago, Tamworthbay said:

The guy who started Bilthamber is called Peter Hamber, he cut his teeth working on rust protection on North Sea oil rigs. All of their stuff that I have used has been excellent. Not always the cheapest but quality through and through.

Agreed. I’m particularly impressed with their range of Dynax wax’s, really good stuff.

[mat_the_cat]

8 hours ago, Mally said:

Stainless always sounds tinny and can fracture.

I don't know about *always* - I wonder if it's more like they often sound tinny, as you can get away with thinner material if it isn't going to rust. Certainly I can't think of a logical reason why they should always sound tinny, and my personal experience doesn't bear that out.

Agreed that they can fracture (as well as rust, depending on the grade of stainless and how it was welded!) You're effectively trading off one failure mode for another, further down the line although cracks can be more easily repaired than rust. I would be inclined to clean and paint what you have, and budget to replace in the future when required with a decent quality stainless system. Yours will likely last a good while with dry summer use, as it will only really corrode from the inside anyway.

Do you reckon the POR rust remover works more effectively than BH Deox C? I've only tried the latter and been impressed with it (as with most of their stuff). I share your worries about rust converters, as they undoubtedly work on the rust they contact, but can only penetrate to a limited extent. Way to check is to use them, then abrade away the black converted layer in an area. If that reveals brown rust underneath, you know it's not going to last...

[danthecapriman]

22 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

I would be inclined to clean and paint what you have, and budget to replace in the future when required with a decent quality stainless system. Yours will likely last a good while with dry summer use, as it will only really corrode from the inside anyway.

I think that’s probably the most sensible way to go. The old mild steel system is basically sound, and with a quick tidy and paint it should be perfectly serviceable for a few years at least. Plus, it’ll mean I can fit it soon and run and drive the car! Maybe later after a few years I’ll think about a more high quality permanent replacement in stainless. There’s a few places around that can do systems made up on the car instead of an off the shelf ‘kit’ of parts.

29 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

 

Do you reckon the POR rust remover works more effectively than BH Deox C? I've only tried the latter and been impressed with it (as with most of their stuff). I share your worries about rust converters, as they undoubtedly work on the rust they contact, but can only penetrate to a limited extent. Way to check is to use them, then abrade away the black converted layer in an area. If that reveals brown rust underneath, you know it's not going to last...

It’s hard to say which is better tbh. Both are good, but I ran out of the Deox C so bought some of the POR instead as it was on the shelf locally. I’ve been surprised just how good it is really! 

These two bumper brackets were in a right state when I took them off. Scaley rust and pitting from being on the front of a car over 40 years... the POR made them look like this after sitting in a tub of it overnight.

It does the job well, put it that way!

[N19]

Just a wee note to say I'm looking forward to this being finished off... have dipped into this thread many times and it's looking beautiful. 

Will look into the Bilt Hambler stuff too... I've been using Kurust for odd bits of surface rust which works to an extent, but sometimes has come back in a year or so.

[Mally]

7 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

I don't know about *always* - I wonder if it's more like they often sound tinny, as you can get away with thinner material if it isn't going to rust. Certainly I can't think of a logical reason why they should always sound tinny, and my personal experience doesn't bear that out.

 

I'll re phrase that. 

My Minor and every other car I've owned with a Stainless exhaust always sounds tinny, possibly because I'm at the lower end of the market.

 

 

[Tamworthbay]

My MGB GT stainless exhaust sounded very nice indeed. At the time stainless were cheaper than mild (I guess due to sales volume). It sounded much nicer than the original and lasted well. The ones I have had on Minis have sounded ok as well. The mini ones were generally decent quality makes.