Jump to content
snagglepuss

Snagglepuss Motors - Rover lives

Recommended Posts

After trying to local scrappies I have to let the alloys go. Just not worth the grief!

 

If the steels didn't have brand new tyres on it would have been a no brainer.

 

It's getting collected tomorrow morning by Mr s Crapman. Will be gutted to see it go as it was more of a hoot to drive the red one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I scrapped my Puma I thought of keeping the shit steels but good tyres and selling them, but like you, failed to find anything round with the holes in the right place to roll the car onto the trailer we borrowed to drag it to the scrappy, so let it go with the wheels and tyres.

 

Was no great loss, steels are much better! You could always snipe a cheap set of alloys between now and the steels needing new tyres and keep your original plan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you next up at crail? Having Nailed a 20.4 in the 1.9d Polo, I reckon there is much to be had from a small car...

Not sure. 

 

Next deadline is Knockhill on 3rd July.  (Still have a spare place up for grabs) 

 

Also Shitefest is in the mix so the next month is out. Maybe August time? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So Swift passed first time (well needed a bulb but Halfords MOT centre changed it for free) 

 

post-3994-0-12723500-1465035340_thumb.png

 

Advisorys were for rear springs being rusty, rear wishbone bushes, front discs and nail in tyre (i cant find it anywhere). 

 

I am going to get the bumpers sorted and then sell it on. It really doesnt float my boat like the starlet or blue swift.  The lack of extra cylinder and rubbish gear ratios make motorways a strain.  Round town it can be very nippy and quite fun. 

 

The only dilemma is whether to hold on to it for Knockhill or not. 

 

The replacement is already lined up, so anyone in a rush to bag a low mileage swift form a queue..... thought not! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad to see the red one passed its MOT, mind you it was low miles and had a good history. Its definitely more of a town car though. A wire brushing of the rear suspension, clean and paint up was on the cards if I had kept it. did you find out why that rainmaster tyre blew out? Seems weird with them being virtually new and a decent brand. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No need to feel guilty Phil it was fun whilst it lasted! Definitely got my money's worth including towing a friend's Passat out of a ditch!

 

I think the tyre bead popped off. Been over the tyre and can't find anything wrong with it. When I get time will pop into part worn place and see if they can have a look for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I now have one of these...

 

5550d20bad21574fe7cb88bb92f99269.jpg

 

That has an electricity habit.

 

Sporty was kind enough to jump start it for me, once at his house and second time after filling with diesel.

 

Drives really well aside from squeaking pulley and suspension creak.

 

Now home so first job is to charge battery.

0c1daf41d8b2a8545e8619d48bb0ecd6.jpg

 

At the moment it makes a nice looking garden accoutrement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I doubt it...

 

 

 

Edit: I may have an answer. All the way home the rear bulb out light was flashing a bit randomly.

 

Googlefu produces

 

 

The issue being indicated is that the "bulb out" warning circuit is controlled by a intergrated circuit on the rev counter - when this IC chip blows it causes the bulb out warning light to stay on, even though all the circuits/bulbs that it covers are working and the offside rear tail light stays on all the time causing a battery drain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lobbed the spare battery on and decided to do some Scooby doo investigating. No pictures as thought I wouldn't find anything

 

The brake light out flickers a bit on the dash. Open up rear right cluster and the bulb is just glowing orange.

 

Brake filament is broken and the normal light filament is the colour of Dale Winton even with keys out.

 

Swap the bulb for a good one and symptoms have disappeared. It might be that the bulb is shit rather anything else.

 

If not got a rev counter coming this week and a new battery.

 

Will try it tomorrow morning to see if the electricity has stayed put.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checked the drain

 

f712451def677a9f0d33433b783875a9.jpg

 

Looks like it was the bulb. Have cancelled the battery and trying to cancel rev counter, which means the fix would have been £1 :-)

 

Definitely needs an aux belt pulley /tensioner and also upper wishbone bushes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The issue being indicated is that the "bulb out" warning circuit is controlled by a intergrated circuit on the rev counter - when this IC chip blows it causes the bulb out warning light to stay on, even though all the circuits/bulbs that it covers are working and the offside rear tail light stays on all the time causing a battery drain.

 

Turns out these were built under licence by Renault.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It gives with one hand and smacks you in the bollocks with the other.

 

Electricity is staying in and my spare battery is keeping the charge. Win

 

Took to local tame mechanic to ask about aux belt. He said to order bits and he will change them. The kit with tensioner is £190 ouch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aux belt changed today by local trusted garage, only cost £60 for two hours work. So total cost is £240.

 

Old ones

f2fa8973b903d176d20b4695ebbc4d44.jpg257732d16cc0eb021c3529fa6009479c.jpg

bbc4eb222786194d33a53bd5b24c0e13.jpga2838f1fa6ced296583263dc8d622df7.jpg

 

Belt had a bit of fraying on it. Apparently cambelt looks fairly newish so not going to worry about that.

 

Interestingly after having both cars available, when I had to pop out for milk I picked up the swifts keys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took advantage of the decent weather to do the swifts front brakes.

 

I hate low mileage older cars! Everything was rusted together.

 

f9cbd88c9c103574c9d49db8d38cea30.jpg

 

The discs were rusted solid to the hubs and needed a massive battering with club hammer.

 

c0c1f21add1e0a731ad3bb07ab1f4a93.jpg

 

The pads were wedged in and needed a full on wire brushing to clean

63f0892e7f81c286f986f520793cd254.jpg

 

10842fed28d2560fdc353ac13e2877db.jpg

 

One of the carrier bolts rounded so I ended up Luxoing it

55fc4d2ce6e93244562f7fdc2e51fe31.jpg

b231c41f82d236335e58916c3ef754b5.jpg

 

Had to leave it half done. 43ffc81dc5d0f7613c96dcaf33028e85.jpg

 

Any idea where would stock carrier bolts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take the old bolt to a local fasteners place, should be well under a quid.

 

There's one near me and I'm constantly down there getting odds and ends, much cheaper and easier than trying to order anything like that from a dealer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not quite sure in size. Will try and Google it.

 

Just realised it drive past a Suzuki dealer in way to work so might see if they are reasonably priced.

 

That's a top tip Richard. I ended up using a BFH

 

Old discs and pads were very much done, so should make quite a difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BoggyMires
      Now in my mucky hands is this S Type Mondeo Lincoln. It's not like a Mondeo Lincoln  though, just uses some of the bits as it's from a time when jaguar was experiencing some 'technical' issues. 
      It has managed to hang onto the feel of a premium car but for the use of cost saving interior plastics made from the same gear that land Rover used in the discovery 2 of the same era, I know, I have one of those too! That has some BMW switches in it though.
       
      This jaag was cheap. Why did I buy it? All I wanted really was a small convertible for the summer to smoke around in, this is the polar opposite. 
      The price was good but these cars are without their expensive issues. I liked the body. It's virtually rust free, a freak of nature and it had a set of premium tyres on it which suggested it's had some money chucked at it.
       
      That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
       
      Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
       
      I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
       
      Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
       
      As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
       
      After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
      A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
       
      That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
       
      WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
      Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it". 
       
      LIFESAVER!!!
       

       
      Sticky slider syndrome ^
       

       
      Fully padded up ^
       
      I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.
       

       

       
      There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
       
      Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...
       

       
      I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
      Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off 
       

       
      Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.
       

       
      Looks smart yo!
       
      Then it got dark...
       

       
      I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
       
      So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard. 
       
      So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.
    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
       
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
       
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
       
    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


      It really looks that good. There is a reason for this: its previous owner was an old lady who loved the thing so much so she made every effort to keep it in good shape. It originally came from Fleet in the GU postcode which suggests to me it was bought by the present dealer at auction, hence arriving down here in Kent. Before seeing the car I checked its MOT history and its only fails were thanks to broken stoplights, which shows me that it was very well cared for. I suppose an example of this was that on the last MOT, an advisory was a corroded rear silencer. The silencer on the car when I saw it was new. Methinks the lady wanted to keep it as good as possible. It was kept in a garage and so all the bumpers and black trim are very black and the tyres are in very good condition. Spare never used! Also included a free Dettol first aid kit from 1997.
      This car has 15000 genuine miles on the clock. We clocked over 15000 during the test drive! The lady owner really only trundled around her village in it and the MOT shows that it only did some meagre miles between tests. This, of course, came at a price. We saw a cherry red Micra from 2002 at the same dealer. Paint was shoddy and when they washed it the boot had massive sections of bare metal and it wasn't very happy. This car, however, is in fabulous condition and there was no contest between the two cars- it really is that good, inside and out. Immaculate interior, driver's airbag, cassette player... all there and all functioning (apart from cassette thanks to new battery and failed display). This meant that I bought it for £1600, £100 over what was my uppermost limit, but I knew I wouldn't see another like this that was in as good shape for a fair while. It was priced very ambitiously, at £1990, so I'm content in the fact I managed to slash a few hundred off the price. There wasn't that much paperwork though. All the dealership received was the logbook with 3 service stamps from 1998, 1999 and 2000, the radio key pass, a National Trust sticker, and the original paperwork holder. I suspect the old lady died and had her car auctioned, and the massive file of paperwork is now someone's egg carton, along will everything else she owned.

      As always, this car isn't exactly in showroom condition. While the inside is great and the floor is solid, and the underseal is in great shape, the not undersealed parts need a small looking at. Mainly the rear of the driver's side sill. It's really the only bubbling on the car. I suspect a well aimed stonechip managed to fester over the wintery salted roads, making it rust even more. It's around the size of a 5p piece, and will give me the opportunity to spray the insides of the sill with some chain oil to prevent any further corrosion. Behind the fuel tank there are a few rusty joints- places where the spraygun cannot get paint onto- which some Vactan and Dynax should put to rights. Alternator belt looks original because of the cracking and Nissan badges and will need doing soon as well as the front plate. As much as I like the 90's font and original dealer surround, the dishevelled R and general water ingress is a persistant MOT advisory. It could be the MOT station being strict (and most likely is considering there's a Saxo down the road with far worse blackening), however for the sake of peace of mind and all that, I'll get a new one made. The rear has already been replaced indicating this has happened before.
      All in all, I think this is a nice plucky motor. I'll have it by the end of the week; just got to sort out tax, insurance, and it's going to have an MOT. As part of the deal it's getting the MOT and an oil and filter change which will be something ticked off the list. It has some love scratches and chips here and there, but it drives well, is stiff and controllable, and should make out to be a nice summer project!
×
×
  • Create New...