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Snagglepuss Motors - Not so SMART

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No starlet love ? 😢

Starlet is resting in Scotland. It needs a gearbox oil change in prep for knockhill in July.

 

May also do new front brake pads and find a set of spare wheels for it.

 

I think Bucketer will be piloting it then. Might even make him do the work!

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Starlet is resting in Scotland. It needs a gearbox oil change in prep for knockhill in July.

 

May also do new front brake pads and find a set of spare wheels for it.

 

I think Bucketer will be piloting it then. Might even make him do the work!

If you need a location to do the work gimme a shout- I have a workspace out east:)

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V40 failed mot on

 

Track rod end

Drop link

Rear pads

Handbrake not efficient enough

Cracked windscreen

Missing rear number plate holder

Emissions

 

Advisories on tyres and few other bits.

 

Whilst not the end of the world it is a fair few quid for a car that probably isn't worth it. So going to stick it on eBay 99p no reserve to get rid.

 

Missus moog is back in the civic after having a toys out of the pram moment about buying ANOTHER car. Not sure I can see her issues :-)

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I did suggest that.

 

Boils down to she wants a small car and an auto and doesn't like change. So civic has calmed her down. Just need to find a way to fix the right rear ABS sensor for less than mega money

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This is probably pie in the sky but currently I have

 

A blue swift with 1.3 engine plus PAS

 

A red swift with 1.0 engine and no PAS.

 

The blue one has loads of little niggles and some cripsy bits. The red one is in much better shape overall with half the mileage.

The 1.3 is a much better engine and the gearbox is much better suited to motorways.

 

How difficult would it be to do an engine (and gearbox) and PAS swap?

A weekend job?

Would ecus etc be a problem?

Or is a world of pain?

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How did you get the interior door handle trim off? Mine has the same flippy floppy window problem and I would like to add a cheapo Ebay remote locking kit but the trim around the handle seems to be steadfastly in place.

 

As for an engine and PAS swap, you would probably want to swap the ECU and wiring etc over anyway. I can't imagine that a car produced for so many different markets at such a low price would have much different in the steel so I would imagine that most things, if not everything, would bolt straight in. If anyone has done it before it will be someone on geometroforum.com, ask there, those guys are very knowledgeable and Geo Metro's are virtually identical under the skin.

 

How many miles do you find you are getting from a full tank and how much does yours take from empty? The handbook says the tank is 40 litres so you should get about 400 miles to a tank but the fuel guage in mine makes me rather worried at 300 miles.

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Yo Moog, I know nothing about the Swift in particular but the age of them is well into modular type assembly.

 

This means I would expect the engine, ECU and wiring loom to be 1 big subassembly that just plugs into the car wiring loom at 1 or more large multiplugs, probably in the engine bay.

 

Have an inspect and see if you can see where the looms connect, if both cars have the same connector and which side the ECU is connected to.

 

The only other potential complication would be if there is an immobiliser chip in the key, you might have to disassemble the keys and swap the chips round or possibly swap other immobiliser related components, if it has one.

 

I'm sure there is probably a forum somewhere where it's been done before, http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=17906 any good?

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Slight change of plan

 

 

MOT history of this vehicle

Test date

2 May 2016

Test Result

Fail

Odometer reading

80,062 miles

MOT test number3779 8981 7924

Reason(s) for failure

 

offside front Suspension arm has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.2)

nearside front Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)

nearside rear Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened (2.4.G.1)

offside rear Suspension arm worn and seriously weakened (2.4.G.1)

nearside front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded under body near sill (5.2.6)

offside rear inner Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded sill (2.4.A.3)

offside rear Rear position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.3b)

 

Advisory notice item(s)

 

rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)

front coil spring corroded (2.4.C.1b)

rear coil spring corroded (2.4.C.1b)

offside front Seat belt damaged but webbing not significantly weakened (5.2.2a)

front cross member corroded not in prescribe area

nearside rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)

 

Red one it is then!

 

Although that MOT is due sooner rather than later.

 

Will cartakeback take a car with no wheels?

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How did you get the interior door handle trim off? Mine has the same flippy floppy window problem and I would like to add a cheapo Ebay remote locking kit but the trim around the handle seems to be steadfastly in place.

 

Door trim was removed using plastic trim tools. Well worth the cost then popped off easily.

 

I get about 45mpg from the red one and a bit more from blue.

 

The red one doesn't like the motorways as 70 is around 4krpm and most has been motorway runs. Bonus is the red one has obd2 so I can use the scan tool.

 

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The only other potential complication would be if there is an immobiliser chip in the key, you might have to disassemble the keys and swap the chips round or possibly swap other immobiliser related components, if it has one.

 

They do have imobliser chips. The newer one has obd2 which the older one doesn't which may make it a challenge.

 

Will have a look at teamswift to see what they say

 

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Door trim was removed using plastic trim tools. Well worth the cost then popped off easily.

 

I get about 45mpg from the red one and a bit more from blue.

 

The red one doesn't like the motorways as 70 is around 4krpm and most has been motorway runs. Bonus is the red one has obd2 so I can use the scan tool.

 

I do have trim removal tools and I can get the bottom of the door handle trim off but the top says no. Maybe I'll just yank it off and get another.

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Crikey! I usually think these long fail sheets aren't as bad as they first seem with mostly trivial stuff but yours is really not very good is it. All I see is lots of 'suspension' and 'corrosion'. Maybe a good thing it won't be getting any track day action.

 

Does that mean full steam ahead for the engine swap?

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If it breaks I will have two spare that you can have.

 

Awesome, thanks man. Something else; did you see how the door 'poppers' were mounted inside the door? When you turn the key it unlocks both doors regardless of which door you use which should make adding the remote kit easier but it'd be nice to know ahead of time how accessible the stuff is.

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Will have a look at the central locking for you .

 

 

Decided to sort the squeak out of the rear driver's side on the civic. Ordered a new rear wheel bearing.

 

Took 20 mins from getting tools out to wheel back together. I heart my new impact wrench, makes light work of jobs like this.

 

10 minutes to get this far

 

c303b056d391477c3b292f70a74eb4ee.jpg

Old and new

0264b2df3f3df76ba317a9b2c7835a61.jpg

Back together

8a7bb11714d6199fc90aaca236a32008.jpg2802ceb8359e3058d56d6ace53bdb747.jpg

 

Downside is the abs light isn't fixed but rear squeak is gone!

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Took the red swift out for shakedown before being pressed into service this week.

 

Lucky I did as the tyre popped on motorway. Sounds like a stone hitting the windshield, when I pulled off the motorway it was flatter than a witches booby.

 

Swapped it over for the spare, but couldn't see any obvious damage. No splits or damage anywhere. It is a brand new rainexpert. What would cause it to pop?

 

Also grumbling sound has developed from waterpump area at idle. Joys.

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I am scrapping the blue swift on tuesday next week. 

 

I would like to keep the wheels to use as spares for trackday.

Car take back will only collect a car with wheels

 

The red swift has steels but pretty much brand new Uniroyals on them 

The blue has alloys with rubbish tyres 

Car take back is giving me £60 for the car. 

Quick ebay search shows that if I want a set to stick on the car it will cost me the best part of £60 to buy to put them on a car for scrap. 

 

Do I look for another set of wheels to stick on the car? Just let the Alloys go? Something else? 

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