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Moogs Motahs - sinking the seat


The Moog

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7 minutes ago, snagglepuss said:

Torque specs are based on dry bolts from manufacturer, Putting lube on them changes this.

You can put copper grease on mounting face to stop it seizing, but always been told never on bolts.

Yes, this. I put a load round the hub flange to stop the wheel seizing on, but never on the bolts.

The same goes for other threads where it's important to torque them up correctly. I wondered whether to put some on the threads of my spark plugs when I was swapping them last week, NGK said no. Wouldn't surprise me if using it on head bolts was a no-no etc. etc.

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11 hours ago, Rave said:

Yes, this. I put a load round the hub flange to stop the wheel seizing on, but never on the bolts.

 

 

Torque wrench’s on wheel bolts? Dead posh like.

 

Rave.... with my limited knowledge that’s also wrong. The wheel nuts clamp the wheel to the hub, it’s the clamping that resists rotation, so that’s a surface that should be clean and unlubed. 

But I’m not 100%

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14 hours ago, scdan4 said:

 

Torque wrench’s on wheel bolts? Dead posh like.

 

Rave.... with my limited knowledge that’s also wrong. The wheel nuts clamp the wheel to the hub, it’s the clamping that resists rotation, so that’s a surface that should be clean and unlubed. 

But I’m not 100%

I always torque wrench my wheel nuts/bolts on, only takes a minute extra.

Interesting point about the hubs. If you don't grease them the wheels almost certainly will seize on, which can be a real pain in the arse. Had to put the spare on a 3 year old Audi by the side of the road a few weeks ago, we ended up having to use the spare as a mallet to belt the full size wheel to get it off! I tend to put a smear round the flange and leave the face dry, which ought to be an acceptable compromise I think (though admittedly that has been, up till now, out of laziness rather than thinking scientifically about where the forces are transmitted ;) ).

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Smart blotted it's copy book today.

It left missus Puss stranded as it wouldn't go into gear. Turning the ignition on led to flashing dash and it not going to neutral.

I had a poke and the carpet near the battery was a little moist, but the connections looked good.
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Lifted the carpet and let it dry out. I am hoping it is a one off.

I ended up rocking the car back and forward which seemed to fixed the issue. Now seems to start well enough.

Noticed on the way home that a rear brake light was out. Interesting way of taking the bulbs out

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Nice sound deadening
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Swapped all the bulbs over. I am going to put in led bulbs as they are a bit dim.also going to replace the high level brake light with led strip.

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There's a bloke I work with who has one of those Smart cars on 150k, the oil doesn't get changed much (Something about no sump plug IIRC). You should hear it the poor thing, genuinely the most unhealthy sounding engine I've ever heard.

Also, we need to see more of your recent acquisition! I'd like to formally make a request for more Ovlov related posts please :)

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Volvo will be along shortly - its third in the queue at the moment.

Today I ignored the elephant in the room - or more rightly the CPS on the rover.

Instead I decided to fix the smarts high level brake light. Led light strip was delivered so set to work.

Off the car
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Started to assemble the strip in the housing
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Tested with the jump pack
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The strip was a bit floppy so hot glue used at each end to 565ab087f4b9f2df10b8ee91294f673f.jpgcdadff671df64a4f6814da41ef7ace67.jpg

And then test again 9e1b2bdc1a7c639dd7c86271bee348bf.jpg

Time to test in car
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When you have no friends, Mr mop is very useful
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Bugger taken apart again
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Being led has to go one way only
Reverse connection
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Double checked
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Working out how to attach it I clipped the metal strips and then used spade connectors to fit it.
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That works a treat
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Plastic housing needed a tickle with some snips
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Metal parts got some insulation
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Jobs a good un
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Tomorrow I am going to try and refit the crank position sensor. This is going to require getting the Rover as high as I can in the air.

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Rather than watch TV decided to crack on with the Rover.


Quick recap - car was doing 70 mph then just cut out. Tried tow starting it and no joy. Got fuel to the filter and spark.

We decided it might be crank position sensor so new one ordered. It is a battle as it is in a hard to reach place blocked by the exhaust.

Jacked the car up as high as possible with multiple jack stands to support it.
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Spent about an hour trying to get it back in till I decide to drop the front cross member. It was a little worrying as the bolts looked rusty but came apart easily ISH.

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It was still a fiddle but got it in and tightened up
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Tried turning car over and no joy.

Had enough of the Rover. Stuffed my tools in the back and sulked off to walk the dog.

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Yep auto

 

Speedo says 112k I think but odometer doesn't work. Gr8 for limited miles policy.

 

Took it for a spin and forgotten how much I like these beasts.

 

Need to get dog guard for it in due course.

I can possibly get you a dog guard if you have the mounting brackets. I think the mounts are hard to come by though.

 

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I can possibly get you a dog guard if you have the mounting brackets. I think the mounts are hard to come by though.  
Thanks for the offer but i think I will probably have to have the seats down the more I thought about it.


Today's news is that the Smart is taking a leaf out of the rovers book.

I popped over to ogle the ford exploder at NM Motors and whilst it was there, it started beeping. A lot. Like P38 amounts of lots.

NM plugged it in
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And about 28 faults popped up. Eek.
With years of experience NM diagnosed a fucked battery. Well it is a Merc.

It hides under the passenger footwell - so battery ordered to be delivered a d old one whipped out
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Not quite sure what the odd leads are for.

Cash back - no where near the handbrake!
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Old battery was definitely past its best so an 063 lobbed in
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Much smaller than the old one so will need to sort that. It is also missing the battery clamp so will need to source one.

Cleared codes and everything was good...


Except driving off it started beeping. Some head scratching and googling led to identifying the brake switch fault. Joined evilution to find out full info.

These live in the front of the car and can get water in them messing up esp, traction control, hill hold and abs. This tallies with some odd things things happening such as yellow traction flashing once on a while.

The beeping is the car telling you at low speeds that the hill hold doesn't work.

New switch ordered for £30 and looks a simplish fix.
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Possibly already done but worth having a look at the plug going into the San unit for the headlights. Large brown one, one of two and I forget which number. 

Two in the middle are Tiny little wires that start to melt the connector from too much draw with the headlights being on all the time. 

Our shitter one at work  melted it. Also the pins on the San unit control board had dry joints so it would loose all power randomly..

Watching an episode of aging wheels helped with the fix!

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Not had a look at that yet. Hoping I can ignore the SAM for now...


In further FFS news went to take the Volvo out for first time in two days and it has got a flat battery. Jump started fine but checking charging showed

No load
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Lights etc
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That will be the alternator then.

I technically don't own a properly working car

Rover - unknown failure
Smart - beeping and TCS lights
Volvo - not charging

This is why cars is N+1

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Obviously the way to deal with cars not quite working is to buy another one.

It's a bit of a trip involving a drive down to the big smoke in a stupidly loud car (but what tunnel fun)

Been struggling a bit with insurance with best quote coming in at £800 for a limit of 3k miles. Apparently the theft of the starlet from the drive impacts the options available to me.

Will do a semi collection thread.

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Departed the rolling hills of Accrington head for the big smoke.

 

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Choice of chariot is a decatted, straight through exhaust with 3 1/2 tip.

 

Headphones on for most of the journey down made it ok. The full bore launch from M6 toll was brilliant, as was every tunnel.

 

Going to miss the little beast. I do think the new owner loves it a little.

 

Currently getting my ear bent by Mother Puss about the failures of my siblings, the world at large and everything else. Beer applied.

 

Insurance is sorted, although I think the first year is going to be a bit of a nightmare no matter what.

 

 

The replacement is most definitely a sports car as it is Red.

 

 

 

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There’s a place in Leyland that sorted my 800’s regulator for 20 quid while I waited, dunno if that’s any use to you. Also, bit pointless saying now but don’t Rovers of this era onwards work in such a way that a CPS isnt actually a requirement for it to turn over or run? It tries to find the correct readings from other sensors to run instead or something to that effect. Could be wrong but eh

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There’s a place in Leyland that sorted my 800’s regulator for 20 quid while I waited, dunno if that’s any use to you. Also, bit pointless saying now but don’t Rovers of this era onwards work in such a way that a CPS isnt actually a requirement for it to turn over or run? It tries to find the correct readings from other sensors to run instead or something to that effect. Could be wrong but eh


Where were you 2 weeks ago!

Any idea what else it could be? The car won't start even with easy start whiffed into it.
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1 hour ago, snagglepuss said:

I am now Mx5 less

That didn't last long.

Our plucky hero has now been deposited at his new car.

All loaded up and ready to roll.

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And on his merry way.

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This may on the surface appear to be a like for like replacement but trust me this one is many differents, in hilarious, pant soiling, grin inducing ways.

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So as you may have seen above I now has mx5 again.

 

Does wavy hands to go back in time ....

 

 

Couple of years ago my starlet was nicked off my drive, this was replaced by a puma which in turn resulted me buying an Mx5 from Tickman of this parish. He in turn had bought it from GM.

 

It was love at first drive, as AVO was very well set up.

 

About 9 months later Mitisigma put up an Mx5 that was about to run out of MOT with a water leak, which resulted in a collection mission with myself and bucketeer. BAL was nursed back home and then parked up. The idea was that I would pick the best and then keep it.

 

AVO in turn failed it's MOT so all the good bits were swapped in BAL ( with much swearing by Mr Northern Monkey).

 

BAL got a new hood, new tyres and other odds and bobs. But there was always a little itch at the back of my brain about more power.

 

Northern Monkey preached the gospel of supercharging but I always love a good turbo. Plans were wafted about at getting BAL turbo charged using AVO engine.

 

Wavy hands again and back to a month ago

 

 

Mr F Pirate posted up a thread about his mx5 and how he was going to stick it in for an MOT or break the car. It got the MOT and then he decided it was a bit surplus to requirements.

 

A cheeky PM asking about price was despatched, thinking it would be out of my ball park. The numbers that came back were very pleasing so a deal was done.

 

BAL was swapped for a Volvo estate and in the mean time Bucketeer bought the Hulk van meaning I would drive BAL down and he could take me to collect my new car

 

 

 

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So the new car

 

Mr F Pirate built it himself and it has got some lovely bits bolted on to it.

 

Mitsubishi TD04 turbo on a ETD steel manifold

320cc injectors from a Supra

Megasquirt ECU, with GM electronic boost controller

Intercooler (eBay job)

Forge dump valve, with a dab of JBWeld in it (got blown off and chewed by the crank pulley on one occasion)

AEM wideband O2 sensor with gauge

Torsen LSD

Upgraded clutch,

15" Enkei alloys with recent Falken tyres

Koni Sport shocks/springs

1.8 brakes

Dual exit stainless exhaust from MX5parts (no cat)

TR Lane roll bar

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He gave us the keys and myself and bucketeer took it for a spin. Luckily the price had been agreed as with our stupid grins mean he would have haggled us up !

 

Power is great as below 3.5k it is a normal mx5 and then the turbo spools and off you trot.

 

0-60 time launch from M6 Toll was 6.8 seconds with ham fisted idiot driving it.

 

It's an incredibly sorted car with only few bits and bobs I would do.

 

It comes with amazing wood trim

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This may have to come off and be sold as I will undoubtedly trash it as I go along.

 

Things I would probably do

 

Fit Tein Suspension

Mr F Pirate suggested better studs from flying Miata for exhaust manifold

Coolant reroute kit

Boost gauge and maybe oil temp gauge

Get it mapped professionally with a couple of different maps

 

None of that is urgent as I did 4 hours in it non stop on the way home today, just enjoying the turbo dump valve letting off at 70 ISH

 

The other beauty is that technically the turbo is an efficiency tool

 

Today I did this

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That's 345 km (215 miles)

 

Using just over half a tank of fuel

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That's pretty good.

 

It's now resting with another turbocharged rwd red car (and an ungrateful green car)

 

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On 8/30/2019 at 10:55 PM, Shirley Knott said:

I always used to buy 'new' alternators until I realised there was a shop on my doorstep that would rebuild them for £40, never looked back. Definitely not the end of the world, also dibs on the Ovlov once you've finished with it please.

Who does the rebuild? not that i need one but always handy to know.

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