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Moogs Motahs - sinking the seat


The Moog

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Turning up the fuel pump on an NA diesel surely doesn't achieve much, with the lack of a turbo to provide moar BOOST to burn off the extra fuel?

 

Also, no pictures of the Golf?

Your wish is my command...

 

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Now with new clutch/dmf and into service with MrsNJGLeeds as her work hack

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Picking up the 205 revealed that my jump pack had lost its bounce.

 

Rather than buy a new one I decided to have a bit of a big Clive dig to see if I can just get away with replacing the battery.

 

It's one of these

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I bought it from B M a while ago and I think it probably has been sitting on the shelf for a while

 

Tools out

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All screws removed

 

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The case was then held closed with these black bits of plastic.

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Into the heart of the beast

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It has a compressor attached as well as the jump pack.

 

 

Connected simply by 10mm nuts under the heat shrink

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Battery out

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The empty case

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New battery ordered for £28 from eBay.

 

Not a massively exciting update but thought it might be of interest to someone.

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I am supposed to be writing an assignment so instead I decided to fettle the mx5

 

Mx5s used quite tall battery's which are supposed to be the flooded glass Matt and vented to the outside.

 

The reason is that the boot isn't sealed so gases can get into the cabin.

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The battery has been going flat which I think is starting to wreck the battery. I have got a spare 063 so time to see if I can get it to fit.

 

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I have also entered the regional autotest championship so need the battery to be a bit more secure than the current retention method

 

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A generic battery tray was sourced from ebay for £15 and delivered promptly. I also purchased a set of these for £12

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It is a rivnut tool which is saw being used on the skid factory.

 

You can see how it secures the nut to bodywork on this test

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Off with old battery

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Test fit the new tray and mark the holes

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Bit tight under there so more gadget applied

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Holes drilled, painted and rivnutted

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Bolted down

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Using the old washer tube from AVO I fitted vents

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There is a suitable hole at rear of the boot so a quick rummage and found some grommets

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Installed

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Looks quite good and is properly secure.

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The wonderful thing about the weather is you can get home from work and still have tinkering time.

The new Peugeot has had running problems with it being challenging to start and then cutting out.

These xuds are properly simple - it needs fuel and compression.

First step is to check connections

Return fuel line wasn't secure
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So clipped that back.

Next up was to run clear hose between fuel filter and pump. 7b0323a58e8220260a025516c3bf2eec.jpg

 

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Using spring clips it makes it easy to get a secure connection
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This showed up loads of air bubbles in the fuel. No wonder it does run well f286c16fbe8c677964f659b848fa8faf.jpg

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Someone on here suggested that there is a heater at the back of the engine that can go porous.

Traced the lines back and found the main fuel pipe. It had a sodding pinch clip on it so some swearing and screwdrivers maneged to release its grip on the pipe.

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The new hose was a snug fit, which meant trying to clip it on down the back of the engine was fun*.

I needed to get the atoms juggling a bit more so physics was applied

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Once the hose was softened some careful manipulation got it on.

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I ran the line directly to the pump to eliminate air leaks.

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This was a result. So filter reinstalled - I am not a fan of this current setup as it is very bulky and probably Overkill. Would be tempted to either relocate it or find a smaller setup

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I need to replace the clear hose at the back with proper fuel hose as it will get a bit too warm for it.

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The removed hoses

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My tidy working area.

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Next job is to bleed the brakes, fix the intermittent indicators (I think that is the hazard switch) and sort out the horn.

Horn wise it is going to be quicker to sort a new one than mess with one stuff.

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Have you cleaned up all the earths in the engine bay to try and eradicate the electrical problems, especially the main earthing blocks either side of the rad iirc? This may help with dodgy headlamps, indicators and horn in one fell swoop if you're lucky?

 

Glad to see you got to the root of the engine's problems so quickly, marvellous what a bit of clear pipe can do one one of these. I loved my 205 XUD years ago, it saved me an absolute fortune with or without veg!

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Glad you were able to sort that, definitely not something I'd have figured out on my own. Always did think the brakes were a bit shit but always put that down to it being from the 80s.

 

I think it must need a bleeding as there is no bite to it at all. Either that or the pads are properly rubbish but feels like a fluid problem. 

 

Have you cleaned up all the earths in the engine bay to try and eradicate the electrical problems, especially the main earthing blocks either side of the rad iirc? This may help with dodgy headlamps, indicators and horn in one fell swoop if you're lucky?

 

Glad to see you got to the root of the engine's problems so quickly, marvellous what a bit of clear pipe can do one one of these. I loved my 205 XUD years ago, it saved me an absolute fortune with or without veg!

 

The horn is physically disconnected and sitting in the passenger foot well :-)  I need to find either the original wiring to hook a replacement one or run new wiring to the switch. 

 

The indicators are apparently a known issue with the hazard switch. The connection goes bad on the hazards so you need to take it out and clean it, which should be the answer. 

 

I am going to stick a headlight relay kit on so I can be sure it is getting the full volts from the battery 

 

This week should see the Rover back on the road (fingers crossed) so that will be a result. I then need to get it MOTd and sold. 

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Fair enough but I'd still look them over as a bit of future proofing as well as being a potential free fix. The plastic covering over the earthing blocks goes manky and ends up holding moisture in, thus ensuring dodgy, furry connections that can cause all sorts of electrical randomness ime. A brass toothbrush and some copper grease is a cheap bit of preventative maintenance. 

 

205, 309 and 405 headlamps are brilliant if in good order. I was in a rented brand new Polo at the end of last year and the lamps on that were properly shite to the one's in my jalopy!

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I will definitely get on with my assignment today....

What's that knock at the door....

Oh it's the fuel filter...

I could just stick it on couldn't I ..

 

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Had an air leak from the bottom plastic water drain so swapped them over.

 

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That's it...

On with the assignment

 

I just need to clear some space...

I had better move the jump pack ...

As I am moving it I might as well fix it.

 

New battery has arrived

 

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Hmmmmmm different to the old one

 

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I wonder if I can drill holes in the tabs so it will accept the bolts.

 

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Bugger

 

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Rummages in box

 

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Ah ha

 

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All connected

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back together

 

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Nothing has gone bang so I think that is a success

 

Assignment time

 

Ding dong...

 

Another package...

 

Oh

 

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I like the rapid tinkering progress on the 205, looks like a decent daily hack. That's precisely the kind of fault diagnosis I enjoy the most, just very methodical stuff without having to take half the car to bits. Must be a pretty frugal car. Will it polish to down to one or two shades of red? Also interesting to see inside one of those jump packs. To be honest my main complaint with them is that if you buy one off the shelf it might already have quite an old battery in it, and then they spend most of the time on the shelf at home anyway by which time the battery may well be dead when you need it. Your solution of changing the battery yourself is a good option to buying another unit.

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I think that is what happened with mine, the battery would charge but wouldn't jump start. The new battery was £28 delivered so a reasonably cheap fix. It's quite nice having the compressor on the pack. Also means not chucking something away.

 

Paint work is least of my concerns. I would be tempted to have a go at Rustoleum on it to create a single finish as it is never going to be a show winner.

 

I think it will be more frugal with veg. Asda is £3.75 for 5 l so it will be worth stocking up on that I think once it is up and running.

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To reward myself with having written some of my assignment I got to fit the relay kit for the headlights

 

This is a useful thing if the headlights are a bit pants as it puts 12v straight to them through a relay

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First you remove the old connector and fit the new one

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Then find an earth point. I have just trial fitted it at the moment, it will be removed and fitted more tidly when I get a chance.

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The other side by the battery is chockablock with wiring and a fuse box.

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Headlamp this side is broken so will need to be replaced before the MOT

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Yellow caps off as I really dont like them

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Plugged into the back of the headlight then the live run to the battery through some relays and a 30amp fuse. d9f6f13835adc9c6c4c4411145f3684f.jpg

 

All great ... Except main beams didn't work. The relay clicked but no lighting.

 

Checked the norm light connection

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That looks ok. Main beam time

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Ahhh that might be the problem.

 

Looking at the relay block the power feed for the main beam comes from the centre of relay one to feed the power side of relay two.

 

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Check the relays -

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No middle prongs hence no power getting through.

 

Fuse out

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Snip clip and waygoed

 

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Testy

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Jobs left on pug

 

Bleed brakes

Run wiring for the horn

Secure the battery

Replace headlight and align it

Drive.

 

Back to the assignment

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