egg Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Just to be clear, cut like this: coathanger.png Tried it - and they just don't have enough purchase - having to really tug them and they ping out with the radio still in situ. Greekshite 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 No heat will more than likely be a blocked matrix. Indeed. That's probably the issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 4 welding rods I used when didn't have no tool. You push them in then bend the rods outwards to disengage the retainers. Why are you dismantling the steering column. The likely airbag problem is the connector under the seat, it's a yellow connector. The removal of the fascia isn't a big job, hours work tops. warren t claim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRW Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 You have to apply a little amount of inward pressure and pull out at the same time. When I say inward I mean both rods pulled in towards the the stereo unit egg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 4 welding rods I used when didn't have no tool. You push them in then bend the rods outwards to disengage the retainers. Why are you dismantling the steering column. The likely airbag problem is the connector under the seat, it's a yellow connector. The removal of the fascia isn't a big job, hours work tops. Earlier in the thread it was suggested that the multiplug connection at the base of the steering column could be the flashing airbag light culprit. I'm trying to get at it to have a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 I'd make the under seat connector my first port of call as they are prone to coming loose. The airbag is self testing so once the fault is sorted it will clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Bought a set of radio removal tools today. Still can't get the fecker out. I feel like a complete numpty. Anyway, I have a slightly different set coming from ebay with a different profile - so will try that Wednesday. I emailed the original dealer Cuff Miller (or Muff Killer as some of you wags refer to them!). Got a nice email back.... I have had a look at the service history that we have and I can tell you that it had a regular service with us from,1995 to 2005. There was a cam belt fitted at 25662 miles on 26/11/1998. After 2005 we had it in for MOT’s up until 2009 and then we did not see it again. Magnificent Rustbucket and nacho man 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 So why can't I control my drivers wing mirror properly? Took it apart this morning. The (manual) movement of the mirror is controlled by three springs that connect on to a base plate behind the mirror glass. One of those connections has snapped (not the spring). True shitter would try taking it apart and glue it back I suppose - but as new 'OEM quality' replacements are available on ebay for around £20, I'm tempted just to take the easy option.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 For 20 squids I'd treat it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 For 20 squids I'd treat it! Found a new Ford old stock part for £13.49 delivered. Result! beko1987, Vince70, Magnificent Rustbucket and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 So I got the radio out, well I didn't, I just pulled the dash away with the radio! What did I find? The unit which the heater controls are mounted on is fecked - it was coming away in pieces in my hands - old brittle plastic. Now I have to find another one of these in good condition (non-AC).....but it gets worse... the hold/cold knob controls a cable (no motorised movement like later models) - the cable does nothing i.e. does not turn the lever on the heater. I can't turn the lever by hand either - suggesting the air distributor within the heater is seized up. Should have left well alone.... Lord Sterling 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I'd check the levers, they are mounted way down under the dash. If it's going to be a pain id just leave it and live with the lack of heater action. I've had cars in the past where the heater didn't work and you just manage. egg and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I had a simular issue with a Ka. On that turd the heater was on full bore because the valve was fuckered. But the control panel was shagged as well and up[on dismantling, the true spectre of Ford quality* shone through. Like a 1978 Fiesta, but worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnthonyG Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 What about looking in a breakers for a late Mk2 (t-v reg ish) I'm sure they still used the same bits on the two '99 ones I owned. But then there's no guarantee they won't be buggered either I guess. I am truly impressed by the minty freshness of this survivor Mondeo, and the fact these are now 23 years old! Where did the time go...? Good luck with it anyway. egg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rantingYoof Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 That photo of the dashboard removed made my palms sweat. If you'd posted a photo of someone mid-way through open surgery I'd have flinched less. spartacus, egg, auldford and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I had a simular issue with a Ka. On that turd the heater was on full bore because the valve was fuckered. But the control panel was shagged as well and up[on dismantling, the true spectre of Ford quality* shone through. Like a 1978 Fiesta, but worse.Less of an issue on the Fiesta/Ka, the heater valve is bolted to the top of the bulkhead under the screen. I'd make my judgement on whether to set about taking the dash apart based on the soundness of the ends of the sills and the backs of the inner arches. If these are going I wouldn't fuck about with mending the heater. If you can't weld it will cost an arm and a leg to put those right. If they are sound however then could be worth investing the time into putting minor stuff right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 The heater controls have been removed today. Here is the damage in full. the part I need is 93bw18d - without the air conditioning control. The good news is that I can move the hot/cold lever under the dash (near clutch pedal) - which means the air distributor is still working in theory. So who is breaking a Mk1 mondeo so I can source this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordperv Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I don't know anyone breaking one but there are 2 breaking on ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 thanks - they both look like non-AC models.. Edit: this bloke reckons he has got one (will check Monday) - will be £16 delivered. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breaking-Mk1-Mk2-Mk3-Ford-Mondeo-All-Petrol-Every-Part-Available-Cheap-/172106594547?hash=item28125a38f3 That would be great if it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Also fitted the new wing mirror today (no need for pics) could do with some fettling but it is on. I also got just one non-yellow headlight reflector (nearside) from ebay for a couple of quid - fitted that which makes a difference. Might 'invest' in some OEM non-UV bulbs if I get the other bits sorted. Just need the other side now. vulgalour, trigger, Conrad D. Conelrad and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greengartside Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Can always help with Mondeo bits should you need them chief. egg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Wow. That makes a huge difference. Bye bye unintended-French look. Longbridge Apologist and egg 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Attached a youtube vid of the airbag fault. It lights for approx. 4 seconds, goes off for about 8 seconds and then returns in a loop. I think the pre-tensionner fault is where it flashes four times then goes out. So this seems like a different fault? As far as I can understand it - early models have the spring pre-tensionner and not the pyrotechnic version which has the yellow connector under the seat? Happy to stand corrected. any thoughts? I expect I'll try and disconnect the control module at the bottom of the steering wheel column and get some contact cleaner in there in case that is the problem. If not - it is going to have to go to the auto electrician (once the heating is sorted!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 It's not the seatbelt pyrotechnic tube, that's completely separate, it's an actual connector that sits under the seat it's yellow. IIRC the flashing airbag light relates by the timing and number of flashes to the actual problem. The central locking has a similar fault finding test sequence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Airbag_Fault_Codes egg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Yeah, there's diag codes for both airbag and central locking.I triggered the locking diagnostics inadvertently on my mum's Escort Cab, I was sat messing with the glovebox and suddenly the horn starts going off with little peeps every time you open a door or turn a key. Seems it's meant to do that! Trigger a lock six times in 20 seconds or something to start it, and then it beeps every time you turn a key or open a door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lisbon_road Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Good work sorting all this stuff out. Really impressed, nice car. oldcars and egg 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 You want excitement? Hey, this is a Mondeo thread! A week of waiting. A breaker says he has the heater controls, but I've been waiting for it to be removed and posted to me. So the dashboard is still in pieces and the car is stationary. I have also secured some new trimz - but ebayer seller hasn't accepted paypal payment and hasn't responded to my message. Lets hope it works out! So I have been faffing about - secured a OEM bonnet stay to replace the broken one, it's all in the details folks, and on that note... Following a tip from Christine I have been experimenting with Celluose thinners and the headlight reflector recently removed - it does work - enough I hope to remove the MOT advisory, but the 'new' one I sourced is still cleaner. A general clean up of the nooks and cranny's has revealed this giffer gem - a Norfolk Bowls club pen. Suggesting the car might have occasionally escaped its south coast home. And finally, following a suggestion by Beko(?) on the detailing thread, some Autoglym trim restorer has been bought and made a significant improvement to worn trim. Time will tell if it is more effective than standard pound shop back to black... Anyway, hopefully in a week or two it will be back in service. RobT, Magnificent Rustbucket, vulgalour and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Did you use Autoglym bumper care? The green stuff? If so it will last well, i use it on all the plastics on the Reliant and the Kia. groovylee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overrun Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Linseed oil! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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