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'93 Mondy thread - K reg data geek


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Pollen filter has only been changed once in my ownership...so wiper arms off

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bonnet rubber strip and screws

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Grille panels off

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Bit mucky. so cleaned all this up a bit, lubed the wiper mechanism and applied a bit of vactan in a couple of spots.

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New and old filter, old one wasn't bad, just a bit crispy really after 4 years or so...

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Seal between filter housing and bulkhead still seems ok (can leak) so left alone, but did add a blob of silicone on one possible area I spotted. You can see the blower motor though there.

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All done.

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Started sanding down the rust on this wheel today (original to the car).

I changed it for a newer one a couple of years ago.  Later in the year new rear tyres are on the list (they are dated 2008 and starting to crack on the sidewalls, they've done only 13,000 miles in that time). 

If I get this prepped and painted can go back on the car with the new tyres. How far do you go before reaching for the rust converter!?

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7 minutes ago, RobT said:

Just a quick wipe down with turps or something and I'd say that's Vactan ready.

I've just done another half hour on it, will have a look in the morning, then probably start the process. What I'm trying to do is make it easier to get the wheel trim on and off once done - I have a spare GLX one to hand to see how it is going.

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34 minutes ago, sierraman said:

You’ll probably want some high build primer otherwise you’ll see the pits. 

Good idea, it will be behind a wheel trim, but still, worth a go. I'll get some, as none in stock. 

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After reading Phil's Princess thread this morning - this feels cutting edge.

I have a Gunsons 4127 code reader bought used on eBay by cheque(!) appropriately enough last year.

You have to unscrew it and put a 9v battery in. Luckily, there wasn't an old one festering away

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After that you need the right adaptor for a Ford, that is in the kit

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Then removing a cover on the car you can connect...

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I have only done ignition off checks so far....when you switch on the reader, the fan briefly whirrs, like it does with an OBD2 system.

And I got the following result

111 111 1 111 111

This is the all clear sign. The 1 in the middle differentiates between current codes and historic codes in the Keep Alive Memory (KAM).

Ignition on/engine running later...

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Fuck it the windscreen has cracked for no apparent reason, previously replaced by Autoglass :(

Edit: I'm wondering it was something I did during pollen filter change - but the crack is not near any of the fasteners....but I still feel guilty. Could be a heat thing.

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While I let that sink in (hopefully will be protected under lifetime guarantee)

I did the engine running tests. Only two codes

521 and 538 which mean (a) power steering pressure switch was not activated during self-test and (b) operating error during self-test procedure - which in both cases suggest I need to 'repeat self-test procedure'

Not sure why as the test seemed to proceed as expected - I had to turn the wheel, press and release the brake, engine speed goes up - you then depress and release the throttle completely and the codes come through.

I also proceeded to the 'power balance test' where the engine cuts power to each cylinder in turn to test for errors - that definitely happened - I got a '9' code for that - which is the all clear :-)

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3 minutes ago, sierraman said:

That screens cracked because when you’ve put the screws in on the plastic scuttle you’ve nipped them up too tight in the plastic plugs. Ask me how I know!

I fear that may be the case. If so, pissed off with myself. Although it hasn't actually cracked where the bulkhead is under tension from the plug.

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£75 paid and booked in for 18th June. Last replaced 21/6/17 - so it lasted 3 years.

What I hate is how I fiddle around with pennies here and there to make all ends meet etc, and then potentially make an expensive cock-up like that.

Only other thing in my defence, is I always felt this screen had a slight warp in it after fitting - evidence for this is that the driver's wiper blade tends to leave a trail sometimes as though it doesn't sit fully flush and also, there was a bit of distortion when looking at the passenger side of the window from the driver's window. Sounds like being wise after the event, but it's all true ,your honour.

Anyway, what's done is done, and I'm off to cry like a girl at my misfortune. Well, just be a bit grumpy anyway...

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2 minutes ago, sierraman said:

Just make sure it’s done properly, I had one once that pissed water in afterwards. 

Yup, agree, it's a big area and can easily go wrong  - especially now that the average fitter isn't doing 5 a week like they were a few years back, no doubt.

I may not have the best skill-set - but over-tightening is something I don't usually get wrong, that's the kicker.

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Thanks for the support ;-)

Anyway, I'm relatively pleased with the code reader today, not because I thought there were any pressing faults, but it does mean if something shows up, I might be able to work out what it is myself.

I have various other connectors in the kit including Vauxhall, PSA, VAG, most Japanese makes. So happy to lend the kit to any shiter I come into socially distanced contact with.

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