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Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - Further exhaust work 22/10


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OK next question, it looks like I have a lead on a replacement manifold/downpipe, the car currently has no rad fitted so access is good for sorting the exhaust now.

How likely is it that I will snap one/several/all the bolts trying to remove this manifold? Based on other bolts on the car which haven't been hot/cold cycled for 17 years and counting, the snap ratio is about 2:1 in favour of 'not snapping' but most of the ones that have sheared off have been relatively easy to drill out and replace with new m6 bolts. Snapping one of these will be suboptimal.

I assume that shearing them off flush with the cylinderhead is a fairly likely outcome? 

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My approach would be:

Soak in Plusgas or similar for as many days as possible beforehand and use an impact driver to remove them - the impact part there is critical as it really does help break things loose.  Heaving on it with a whacking great breaker bar is far more likely to shear things off.

If it doesn't pretty much immediately wind out, get heat involved.

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6 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

My approach would be:

Soak in Plusgas or similar for as many days as possible beforehand and use an impact driver to remove them - the impact part there is critical as it really does help break things loose.  Heaving on it with a whacking great breaker bar is far more likely to shear things off.

If it doesn't pretty much immediately wind out, get heat involved.

Thanks, I can do all of those things - I'll start getting plusgas on the bolts right away.

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The auto electrician came today and within an hour we’d gone through and found the issue - a bad ground from the igniter/coils to the rocker cover.

I say ‘we’ because I actually managed to help! With the ignition on and the electrician in the footwell I heard a clicking noise which I initially though was a relay, on closer inspection though it was coming from the igniter and on even closer inspection is seemed to be the earth strap. I removed it and cleaned it up with sandpaper before attaching it to the rocker cover directly instead of via a crusty-looking bracket, the electrician then said ‘the ABS and oil light have gone out’ so he tried the ignition and it burst into life.

What a relief!

I built the intake back up, secured the battery, fitted the radiator and fan, the coolant pipes and refilled the rad with coolant. Next up I need to refit the front bumper, wire in the fog lights, fit the front wheels and then take it down off the lift and for a run to see if it works ok.

Moral of the story is ‘always check your grounds’!

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  • Stanky changed the title to Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - Electrical issues fixed 23/09

Right, kids to bed and got outside and put the rest of it back together. Bumper back on, fogs wired in, wheels fitted - then took it for a tentative first run.

The clutch now bites about an inch off the floor (rather than 3mm from the top of the travel) and engages nicely with no judder. The brakes were a bit scratchy to begin with but cleaned up fine - it was just some very light surface rust from having not turned for about 6 weeks. Driving along there was a scuffing noise which I think was the disc touching the backplate, when I got back I bent the backing plate backwards a bit to make it clear the discs better.

The secondhand driveshaft functions perfectly, with no clicking or other untoward noises so thats a big success overall.

I plan to enjoy the Sirion for a bit, before booking it in for the exhaust manifold and rear beam bushes replacement jobs - I can't do the bushes myself, and if its going to the garage for them then they might as well snap all the exhaust bolts off do that job too. I'd like to get out and use it a bit more before the winter hits and the council start salting the roads.

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Y'know how I really ought to get the rear beam bushes and exhaust manifold sorted? Yeah?

Well, I just sent an entirely* legitimate Malaysian business seller with a letter&number@gmail.com email address £130 via paypal for a rear anti roll bar kit. Reputedly, he will supply an invoice and tracking number henceforth...

I would like to point out that I did do a business transaction, so Paypal will definitely* be on my side when it turns out nothing gets delivered, or its a bent wire coat hanger.

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  • Stanky changed the title to Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - Sending money to strangers 29/09

Fingers crossed indeed! Its through a real business, but the contact email seems a bit iffy. However, they have stock of the ARB I want and are £130 delivered. The only UK seller I could contact have no stock, have openly said its likely to be 6 months before they do have stock delivered as its a 'special order' item and want £180 NOW for the privilege of maybe getting one next year.

We'll see what arrives, if anything. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

What an age we live in eh? I ordered the rear ARB from a seller in Malaysia on 1st October, and it arrived here, beautifully packaged on the 7th October for under £120. The best any UK based sellers could do was £180 and a 6 month (!) wait.

Top marks to yulicoauto.com.my for superb service and impeccable English - they couldn’t have done more to help! If you google them, don't forget the ".my" on the end, otherwise you get a VERY different (and VERY NSFW) website :shock::shock::shock:


Kit comprises the ARB itself, an Ultra Racing AR16-406 bar, 2 mounting brackets and a pack of stainless steel washers and bolts for fitting to the rear beam of my Sirion. This is the 16mm version - they also do a 19mm one - which I hope will tidy up some of the body roll when driving enthusiastically.

Its also a:




Work was quiet this morning so I went out and got the Sirion up on the lift to fit the ARB. The rear beam is 4 pre-drilled holes for mounting the ARB so first of all I bolted the angle brackets to the rear beam. The kit comes with 8x 14mm bolts in 8.8 stainless steel, plus washers for mounting.

I did the vertical bolts up tight, then bolted one side of the ARB horizontally into to the bracket. It needs to be fitted under tension, it comes shaped like \___/ and needs to be tensioned so it looks like this |____| instead.  I got my ratchet strap out to try and bend it into position, then (in a rare instance of this for me) had a brainwave.


Rather than doing one side up tight, then using a ratchet strap to bend the other side in parallel, I undid the horizontal bolts on the side I’d done up so they were engaged about 5 threads each into the captive nuts of the bracket. This allowed the whole ARB to slide over about 1" and meant I could use a small g-clamp on the other side to bend it in a small amount, just enough to get the bolts to line up and engage with the threads in the captive nuts - I hardly had to put any tension on it to get it to this stage, meaning less chance of it slipping and pinging off into my face or whatever.

Once I had all 4 bolts engaged with the captive nuts I could tighten it all up, working diagonally about 5 turns at a time, left front, right rear, right front, left rear and so on until it was fully tightened up


Here it is in situ, I didn’t realise until I took this pic that I’d mounted it with the Ultra Racing logo upside down (doh!) but I’m not going to undo it and flip it over, no-one will see it anyway, unless I’m upside-down in a ditch!

I’ll take it for another run over the weekend to see how its altered the handling, looking forward to reporting back. I reckon with the word 'ultra' in the name its got to add at least 20bhp, right?

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  • Stanky changed the title to Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - Gran Turismo IRL 8/10

Some progress, some regress.

With the rear ARB on, the handling is massively improved, with less understeer under acceleration and sharper turn-in. However...

The brackets that hold the ARB in place sit slightly further back from the trailing edges of the rear beam. See


As you can see from the tell-tale shiny bit, with the wheels on the ground there is very little clearance between the square end of the bracket and the exhaust pipe. Going over bumps causes the two to whack into each other as the suspension compresses and makes a nasty clonky noise. Left long enough the bracket will punch a hole through the mild steel pipe. This is sub-optimal. I've tried removing the ARB and flipping the brackets around, but then the ARB fouls on the rear beam and I can't get the holes to line up properly so the ARB has to stay where it is.

Which means the exhaust will want modifying a bit. The only issue is the final bend - leftmost in this pic


The messy black bit is where it contacts the ARB bracket so this needs to be altered and I'd like some advice. As you can see, there are three rings marked in green pen - A, B and C


What needs to happen is the final bend, leftmost in the above pic needs to be made more aggressive in my opinion. My current idea is to cut the exhaust at points A and C, and have a bit of pipe made up thats sort of like this


with swaged and slotted ends - This could then slot over the points at A and C and be clamped in place and exhaust pasted to fill any gaps. Questions are really

1. is this likely to work? Are 90 degree bends in exhausts overly restrictive? Assuming its mandrel bent I can't see an issue with it? As an example, at the front end, the exhaust goes 90 degrees from the bottom of the catifold into the central section of exhaust.

            1a. I could make this myself from 2x 90 degree swaged elbows off the shelf potentially

2. Is there a better way? Is anywhere likely to be able to modify my existing exhaust section to tighten the angle of the bend?

3. Should I fuck it off and make a simple side-exist exhaust instead with some flanged 1.75" pipe and a 60 swaged degree elbow?

4. How shit are 'Polylock' exhaust tubes?


The distance from A to C is 30cm with a vertical measurement of 19cm


Option 4 would be to cut back to point B and put in a 45 degree bend, then a straight pipe, then a pair of either 45 or 90 degree bends to joint back up at C?

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  • Stanky changed the title to Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - exhaust issues 12/10
26 minutes ago, 320touring said:

Not to ask a daft question but can you not just remove material from the bracket/bolts?

Potentially, but it's all under quite a bit of tension even 'static' so I'm keen to avoid potentially weakening the brackets unless absolutely necessary

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How far into where the exhaust pipe is can the bracket go? 

If it's not that far, would it be easier to just heat the pipe and hit it with a hammer modify it until you've made enough of a concave clearance gap in the relevant area?

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Some percussive maintenance has been deployed and it's better, only contacting over the biggest potholes now.

Ive ordered another sirion rear exhaust section for £20 and sent to my brother to cut and weld to improve the clearance on that specific section, it's cheaper than a bunch of angle sections and clamps.

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Minor update but the Daewoo astonished us by passing another MOT today - the list of advisories was slightly longer but the tester said he was just covering his arse on most of it. Could do with some new front tyres as there is some wear on the outer edges, but since it only does a bit over 2000 miles between tests he said they'd probably be fine for another year or two.

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in an astonishing turn of events, all of the exhaust manifold bolts came off without snapping and having removed the front bumper and radiator support bar I was able to ease the old manifold out. It was definitely toast,, the mating face had just crumbled below exhaust ports for cylinders 3 & 4


So this is destined for the bin, possibly being sold for the metals inside - though it seems to lack any form of part number.

Anyway, gasket and new bolts on order for both the manifold > cylinderhead and manifold > centre section of exhaust, I could recycle the old ones but for a modest price I got a set with everything I needed in it. With the manifold and gasket removed, I cleaned up the mating face of the cylinderhead


How forensically clean does this need to be? after taking this pic I cleaned it up more with a wire brush, stanley blade and a fine sanding block, does the entire flat metal surface need to be cleaned back to bright metal?

I need to do two things, firstly remove the rather stuck lambda sensor from the replacement manifold, this has been left soaking in some plusgas and I'll try heating it up a bit over the weekend to free it off; then once its free I can take the manifold to an engineering shop to skim the mating face which is a bit untidy but nowhere near as bad as the old one. I'll also vacuum off the front of the block while its all apart. Possibly tonight.

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  • Stanky changed the title to Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - Further exhaust work 22/10

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