Stanky's Car Fixing Thread - Fixing the worlds most reliable car 10/4

[Stanky]

A parcel arrived for me earlier, whats inside?

ah-HA! two cans of Dynax UB aerosol wax for the rear half of the Daihatsu, excellent. After using their S50 cavity wax a year ago I knew what I was letting myself in for, so duly put on my most grotty jeans and my overalls because it goes everywhere. These cans come with stubby extension squirter nozzle which really helped!

This is the area above the fuel tank which is utterly unaccessible once the tank is on, so was a priority. I had previously rubbed down and vactan'd this, though the metal wa actually mostly sound under here.

I got a bit of overspray on the exhaust which I shall clean off with some old rags and petrol because I can imagine it smells lovely* if allowed to burn off naturally!

This is the view up inside the passenger side wing where the fuel cap fits to the (new) filler neck. Again, this is 100% inaccessible once the filler neck is on, so was worth cleaning back the surface rust, vactan'ing and waxing the whole lot thoroughly.

I also gave a light coat to the top of the fuel tank/crushing weight of death - its probably fine after being cleaned back with a wire brush, vactan'd, zinc primered multiple times and painted with several layers of black enamel paint, but it was out anyway and easy to blow over.

I'll let all this dry for a couple of days - the solvent will evaporate over time, leaving a self-healing layer of brown wax everywhere which will stop it corroding more, and also inhibit any rust that I missed with the vactan session. Once its dried off nicely I'll wipe the overspray off the exhaust with a petrol-soaked rag, then refit the fuel tank and filler neck, plus all the connectors and slop some petrol in and make sure it works still!

I'm pretty pleased with all of that, the wax made a giant mess again and I had to clean my hands and forearms with petrol and a rag but its a good job out of the way.

[Stanky]

With itchy feet I set to again tonight with a plan to get this all back together again.

I gathered my tools and things and carefully jacked the fuel tank up into position, attaching the fuel gauge plug, fuel return line and fuel feed lines before raising it high enough to put the 4 bolts in that hold it to the underside of the car. This is a better system than the bench press system employed on removal!

With the tank refitted I could then fit the new filler neck, I put a tiny smear of silicone grease on the inner edges of the fill and breather pipes and wiggled them onto the metal ends of the brand new filler neck, then wiggled the filler flap end into position with the gasket already fitted and did up the 2 brand new fine thread bolts that hold the top of the filler neck to the inner wing

from underneath i could then do up the 12mm bolt that holds the neck to the car, about mid-way along. This is the underside view

Then finally tightened up the hose clamp where the filler neck meets the rubber joiner for the tank, and the same for the breather hose and we're done I think?

I gave the underside a few more squirts of dynax wax on a few spots I'd either missed, or hadn't coated as well as I could have, then used a petrolly rag to wipe down the overspray on the exhaust and wheelarch lips. I also reattached the rear wheels so I think its all done now?

All I need to do now is lob a couple of gallons of petrol in from some jerry cans and then see if the car will start! I'll drop it down off the lift tomorrow or over the weekend, get some fuel in it and then run it up and down the drive a few times to clean off the surface rust on the front discs from 2 months of inactivity. Then I need to book it in for an MOT!

[Stanky]

Minor update, but the MOT for the Sirion has been rebooked for 30th June - I've dealt with every advisory other than the exhaust (which is getting replaced downpipe-back with a stainless jobbie once I have a years ticket on the car), it should go through OK I hope.

I've also bought a new rear passenger side caliper and pad retaining pins kit for the Mercedes, it makes a dragging/rubbing noise from there, especially after a motorway run and I am moderately sure its the piston not retracting properly. A rebuild kit was £35 or an entire refurbed caliper was £41  so that won out. It also developed a rattle noise when decelerating as the engine revs drop between 1500 and about 1300 rpm which I'm fairly sure is a heat shield. I shall investigate in due course.

Finally, I have the cambelt and water pump kit for the Fabia, plus the locking tools so that will get done at the start of next month. It doesn't look like too bad a job TBH, we'll see.

[SiC]

Iirc @twosmoke300 has said before elsewhere that VAG use one time stretch bolts on engine mounts. 

[Stanky]

6 minutes ago, SiC said:

Iirc @twosmoke300 has said before elsewhere that VAG use one time stretch bolts on engine mounts. 

I think* the kit comes with new ones, but will check before I start work!

[Stanky]

On 17/06/2022 at 22:03, Stanky said:

I've also bought a new rear passenger side caliper and pad retaining pins kit for the Mercedes, it makes a dragging/rubbing noise from there, especially after a motorway run and I am moderately sure its the piston not retracting properly. A rebuild kit was £35 or an entire refurbed caliper was £41  so that won out. It also developed a rattle noise when decelerating as the engine revs drop between 1500 and about 1300 rpm which I'm fairly sure is a heat shield. I shall investigate in due course.

The caliper I ordered duly arrived and I set about fitting it, getting as far as having removed the pads and retaining pin, and disconnected the brake flexi from the old caliper before realising the new one was wrong. Specifically, it was for a 278mm rear disc, whereas my C180 has the SPROTS 290mm ones. Bother.

So swapped it all back to the original caliper and fitted the new retaining pin since the old one was a bit grotty. Duly enlisted my neighbour to do the pedal end of bleeding the air out. This was going swimmingly, right up to the point this happened

Bother again. Well thats that fucked isn't it? It sheared off as I tightened it up, so the stub was at least preventing the brake fluid from escaping, but I wasn't confident enough to drive it like that, so off to the local Motor Parts Direct for a new, correct caliper. Mercifully they are only 20 minutes walk away, they relieved me of £98 + £53 surcharge and gave me the right caliper.

Back to HQ and knowing what was required I quickly swapped over the old caliper for the new one while my wife was out at work

Old one off, flexi undone and swapped to the new one

Pads swapped over as they still have loads of meat left on them and they're worn to the discs anyway (which are also fine). Used the new slide pin and retaining clip thing to keep it all where it ought to be.

When my wife got home I got her to do the pedals as I carefully bled the caliper end (without shearing the bleed screw this time). But the important question - did it fix the sqeaky noise after a motorway run?

No, of course it didn't. FML.

So, i think the only possible option now is that its the other (drivers) side. The fronts are fine, and have had the sliders lubricated twice in the last 2 years, the noise is definitely coming from the back, but only after a run, followed by braking, then moving again at <20mph speeds. Its a constant rubbing noise, so I'm fairly sure its not a warped disc, and is a caliper piston thats slow to retract. I'll have to buy another caliper for that side, but it won't be this week.

I did get my £53 surcharge back though, and have returned the wrong 278mm caliper for a refund so I'm only £100 out of pocket.

Also I can't find where the rattle is coming from, the engine bay heat shields are fine so it must be further back. I'll have to get it on the lift and see if anything looks iffy.

[lisbon_road]

Have you considered running the piston in and out a few times to see if it frees up? 

[Stanky]

1 hour ago, lisbon_road said:

Have you considered running the piston in and out a few times to see if it frees up? 

Its odd, it doesn't seem to bind much, the car will roll normally on the slightest incline, and i can push it easily by myself with the handbrake off, even after a run. its done it for at least 18 months now and no mention was made of any brake issues on the last 2 MOTs, despite me mentioning both times. Neither rear wheel gets noticably warm either?

Its more of an irritation than a problem really - its just it can make a bit of a racket sometimes if the journey is wrong. A great example would be going to Southsea from here - stop start to the M27, then a ten minute 70mph run down the motorway, then slow stop-start through portsmouth. By the time I'm looking for on-street parking in southsea, its making a bit of a row from the back end. Give it ten minutes of being parked up through and its fine again? Even when its making noise, it rolls pretty much normally though so the bind can only be very very slight?

[lisbon_road]

I had a problem recently which was sort of similar and turned out to be a wheel bearing.  Yours does sound more convincingly brake though.  Might be worth taking the pads out and running the piston in and out, if you don't want to splash out on another caliper.  Just an idea. 

[Stanky]

1 minute ago, lisbon_road said:

I had a problem recently which was sort of similar and turned out to be a wheel bearing.  Yours does sound more convincingly brake though.  Might be worth taking the pads out and running the piston in and out, if you don't want to splash out on another caliper.  Just an idea. 

I'll give it a blast - I'm fortunate with the setup of the rear brakes, the handbrake actuates shoes on the concave inside of the disc, rather than conventional ratcheting calipers, so the piston should* push back into the caliper using a g-clamp; I won't need a proper wind-back tool I don't think.

[lisbon_road]

I have a wind back tool if you need it.  I don't like using it much though.  Rear discs always seem a bit complicated to me. 

[Mr Pastry]

7 minutes ago, Stanky said:

Its odd, it doesn't seem to bind much, the car will roll normally on the slightest incline, and i can push it easily by myself with the handbrake off, even after a run. its done it for at least 18 months now and no mention was made of any brake issues on the last 2 MOTs, despite me mentioning both times. Neither rear wheel gets noticably warm either?

Its more of an irritation than a problem really - its just it can make a bit of a racket sometimes if the journey is wrong. A great example would be going to Southsea from here - stop start to the M27, then a ten minute 70mph run down the motorway, then slow stop-start through portsmouth. By the time I'm looking for on-street parking in southsea, its making a bit of a row from the back end. Give it ten minutes of being parked up through and its fine again? Even when its making noise, it rolls pretty much normally though so the bind can only be very very slight?

You say there is plenty of meat on the pads, but you could try a new set which would force the piston to work in a slightly different position  in the caliper, which sometimes helps.    Plus of course retracting the piston to fit the new pads will tend to free it off anyway. 

[Stanky]

Just now, lisbon_road said:

I have a wind back tool if you need it.  I don't like using it much though.  Rear discs always seem a bit complicated to me. 

It does seem a bit overkill on a car with just 130bhp and weighing 1400kg. Drums would have been entirely adequate and a lot less fiddly.

[alf892]

Are you sure the noise is not from the handbrake?
Test by pulling it on very lightly…….similarly test if noise on foot brake by touching brakes while it is noisey

[Stanky]

18 hours ago, alf892 said:

Are you sure the noise is not from the handbrake?
Test by pulling it on very lightly…….similarly test if noise on foot brake by touching brakes while it is noisey

The issue with the 'hand' brake on these is that its foot operated. Its a 4th pedal to the left of the clutch. There is virtually no feel, and fine control is impossible - it releases via an equally numb pull lever above your right thigh.

From what I can tell, the HB is working normally. The noise starts after the first few presses of the foot brake on a journey.

[Stanky]

MOT day for the Daihatsu today, 3 months after the last one. All issues have been addressed, except the blowy exhaust which will be replaced in Stainless once I get a ticket on the car. Its not a bad blow but will probably make the advisory list.

Goes off to batter the gov.uk MOT site with page refreshes....

[Eyersey1234]

28 minutes ago, Stanky said:

MOT day for the Daihatsu today, 3 months after the last one. All issues have been addressed, except the blowy exhaust which will be replaced in Stainless once I get a ticket on the car. Its not a bad blow but will probably make the advisory list.

Goes off to batter the gov.uk MOT site with page refreshes....

Good luck with the MOT I hope you get some chodtastic news

[Stanky]

w00p w00p, we're back in business! Awaiting a phonecall from the garage now to say they've dealt with the rear beam bushes (advisory #2). I'm astonished to see that the exhaust has repaired itself but I'm not arguing!

[RayMK]

On 6/25/2022 at 9:45 PM, Stanky said:

Its odd, it doesn't seem to bind much, the car will roll normally on the slightest incline, and i can push it easily by myself with the handbrake off, even after a run. its done it for at least 18 months now and no mention was made of any brake issues on the last 2 MOTs, despite me mentioning both times. Neither rear wheel gets noticably warm either?

Its more of an irritation than a problem really - its just it can make a bit of a racket sometimes if the journey is wrong. A great example would be going to Southsea from here - stop start to the M27, then a ten minute 70mph run down the motorway, then slow stop-start through portsmouth. By the time I'm looking for on-street parking in southsea, its making a bit of a row from the back end. Give it ten minutes of being parked up through and its fine again? Even when its making noise, it rolls pretty much normally though so the bind can only be very very slight?

I recall having a similar problem - I think it was on a Renault 12ts.  The cause, after going through the same routine as you have, was discovered to be that the foot pedal  rod (which ultimately actuates the master cylinder) had a lock nut on its adjustment which had come loose, allowing the rod to move and take away the required couple of mm free play.  The free play of course ensures that the master cylinder piston returns to the start position thereby opening the port to the reservoir and releasing pressure in the system.  With no free play at the pedal, the system can work fine when cold but, after a few applications of the brakes on the move, the brake fluid expands and lightly applies the brakes. This can cause the squealing.  In severe cases, the brakes can lock on until the fluid cools down.  Just a possibility. Well done with the MOT pass.

[rusty_vw_man]

On 6/25/2022 at 9:45 PM, Stanky said:

Its odd, it doesn't seem to bind much, the car will roll normally on the slightest incline, and i can push it easily by myself with the handbrake off, even after a run. its done it for at least 18 months now and no mention was made of any brake issues on the last 2 MOTs, despite me mentioning both times. Neither rear wheel gets noticably warm either?

Its more of an irritation than a problem really - its just it can make a bit of a racket sometimes if the journey is wrong. A great example would be going to Southsea from here - stop start to the M27, then a ten minute 70mph run down the motorway, then slow stop-start through portsmouth. By the time I'm looking for on-street parking in southsea, its making a bit of a row from the back end. Give it ten minutes of being parked up through and its fine again? Even when its making noise, it rolls pretty much normally though so the bind can only be very very slight?

I have experienced something similar, for me it was a flexi hose that was pst it’s best. Looked like it was acting like a weak one way valve, with fluid very slow to return. 

Not enough to drag so you’d notice, but just enough to keep it touching. 

Might be worth having a grope of all your pipes, give them a good squeeze to check condition……

[Eyersey1234]

17 hours ago, Stanky said:

w00p w00p, we're back in business! Awaiting a phonecall from the garage now to say they've dealt with the rear beam bushes (advisory #2). I'm astonished to see that the exhaust has repaired itself but I'm not arguing!

Chodtastic news

[Stanky]

Thanks both - a few avenues to pursue! 

[Stanky]

Picked the Daihatsu up just now and took it back home, the new PU bushes on the rear beam make it really nice and tight on twisty roads, it wasn't bad before, but is a big improvement now. I had a chat and the tester reckoned it was in really good shape now, with the only issue being the exhaust which I already have plans for.

I need to get the AC regassed before all the seals dry up with an empty system, so maybe this month. Insurance was down 30% on last year too which was a welcome result. Otherwise its just a case of enjoying it really. 

[Stanky]

A bit of a status update, the AC in the Daihatsu got regassed and hold pressure nicely, and is nice and cool while on the move. It loses cooling sat in traffic as I don't think it has a fan for the AC radiator thing but its not a massive hardship. 

I had a busy weekend with @tobyd's help. First we changed the rear flexi pipes, rear brake pads and slider pins on the Mercedes to try and sort out the rubbing noise that appears after 5-10 minutes from the back brakes at low speed. While the flexis were overdue and the pads were a bit old, so replacement was a good thing - the noise remains. I'm a bit of a loss as to what it is now. We've replaced both flexis, pads, one caliper and the other moves freely so I'm a bit confused. It takes 5-10 miles for the noise to start and sounds exactly like a brake binding at low speed. Above 20mph its inaudible, and it comes and goes with application of the foot brake. Its like the calipers aren't releasing properly. Fuel economy seems largely unaffected, I get 32mpg from 60/40 urban/motorway driving which seems about right based on others, but it isn't half irritating. Its gone through 2 MOTs like this so maybe I just need to turn the radio up?

We also sorted out replacing the cambelt, tensioners and water pump on the Skoda which was the only outstanding job left to do on it. As SiC said when I bought it a few months ago, the belt isn't original as it has tippex timing marks on the pulleys but there is no indication of when it was last done. I can now sleep soundly knowing I've changed it all and there is a sticker in the door jamb as evidence. The job mostly went ok, I destroyed 2 1/2" > 3/8" adapters trying to get the crank pulley bolt off, and had to go to Halfords for a 21mm 12-point 1/2" drive socket in the end, but we got there. Also, the tensioner on the little belt that goes between the exhaust and intake cams snapped off (which I'm fucked off about as it was a full Gates powergrip kit, not a shit one) so we had to refit the old one as it was impossible to tension the belt with the allen key hole snapped. Otherwise it all went to plan and started and runs fine. Its a bit of a faff of a job, certainly compared with the (only) other cambelt job I've done which was on a 4AFE engine'd Toyota celica a few years ago and was a complete piece of cake in comparison. 

Anyway, all done now. A mostly productive weekend

[Talbot]

2 hours ago, Stanky said:

the AC in the Daihatsu got regassed and hold pressure nicely, and is nice and cool while on the move.

Very pleasing to know that's working properly.  I was slightly concerned about the union that was put back together on the Condeser, but it's clearly ok!

The lack of a condenser fan is an odd one.  It might be that the system is supposed to use the radiator fan to draw air through the condenser, but if there isn't a seal between the radiator and the condenser, that won't be effective.  Similar issue with @Crackers's MX5.  Seems to be fine on the move, but looses effectiveness when stationary, as the condenser can't dump heat.

[Stanky]

54 minutes ago, Talbot said:

Very pleasing to know that's working properly.  I was slightly concerned about the union that was put back together on the Condeser, but it's clearly ok!

The lack of a condenser fan is an odd one.  It might be that the system is supposed to use the radiator fan to draw air through the condenser, but if there isn't a seal between the radiator and the condenser, that won't be effective.  Similar issue with @Crackers's MX5.  Seems to be fine on the move, but looses effectiveness when stationary, as the condenser can't dump heat.

Yes, working like a champ thanks! I can't find any fault codes relating to the AC on the Fabia, and have replaced the switch that we thought might be iffy but its still not cooperating. I think the compressor might have had its day, as there is no click from the clutch after applying 12v to the compressor directly, and pressing the switch with the engine running doesn't alter the revs at all, so i think it may be b0rked. It doesn't matter a huge amount tbh, but glad we tried.

Thank you for loan of the engine crane, the cambelt job would have been impossible without it. I got all the bolts to assemble it from a marine fixings company locally, I'll sort out return of it via PM shortly along with the full set of bolts which now have their own natty container to live in 😀

[SiC]

No idea on VAG compressor clutches but on the Astra G they are prone to blowing their thermal fuse. Usually that is caused by the clutch faces rusting up and so slipping when engaged. This causes extra heat and blows that thermal fuse. 

Is there any resistance across the compressor clutch windings? Presumably not. 

[Stanky]

I've been using the Daihatsu quite a bit recently as it's been dry and warm and it gets 40% better fuel economy than the Mercedes, but this has thrown up the issue of a jiggly steering wheel above 60mph on the motorway. 

I've had it in the garage tonight on the lift and front wheels off to tighten up all the front suspension bolts, all of which were tight anyway. I managed to snap both cotter pins on the lower arm castellated nuts which was annoying, but otherwise all seems fine.

I've had the wheels balanced fairly recently but it still wobbles the steering wheel between 65 ish and 80 mph which is frustrating on the motorway.

Anything else I should be checking? I will order some new cotter pins, then take it for another run. I managed to tighten a couple of bolts up a little bit, but nothing much noticeable. What else should I be looking at?

[lisbon_road]

Do you use a torque wrench? Er generally don't need to retighten suspension. 

Otherwise, distortion of hubs worth checking. I have a dti if you need one 

[Stanky]

39 minutes ago, lisbon_road said:

Do you use a torque wrench? Er generally don't need to retighten suspension. 

Otherwise, distortion of hubs worth checking. I have a dti if you need one 

Thanks, will refit some new cotter pins (on order) and then take it for a run, then possibly swap wheels front-to-back to see if that helps. if that dosn't help I'll take you up on the DTI!