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Tickman's stuff. MOT time rolls around.


Tickman

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if you need a bit of a mojo boost, feel free to come down and have another go on the black one - so much fun

 

Great thread

 

I've had 4 MX5's over the years, 2 Mk1s A Mk3 last year and a much better Mk3 this year.

 

Everybody should have a MX5 in their lives for one summer at least , when the sun is out I just go out to find roads to drive

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had noticed while doing a thorough check by accident that the sidelights on the Alfa didn't give any light at the front so I thought that with our glorious* summer* coming to an end I should have a look and see what the issue was. 

After a quick look I consulted google and found that it was quite straight forward and found the first bulb blown. Armed with the old bulb I went to Halfords and found the correct items on the rack. Thankfully the Trade card made the eye watering £6 each a little more palatable at £3 each.

Naturally with the items now in my possession I went outside to find all the water in the world falling from the sky.

 

I went to my local covered public car workshop area and sorted the bulbs out.

 

Here we are just after the work.

post-17457-0-26447800-1506004413_thumb.jpg

 

A special thanks goes to Tesco for providing this facility and also the hand washing facilities that were tested.

post-17457-0-27848700-1506004423_thumb.jpg

 

 

After this amazingly successful job was completed I had to collect my small steps for the workshop so had a quick time waste cleaning the brakes on the Series 2 Land Rover.

Just before leaving I gave it the twice yearly start up which it did first turn of the key (admittedly held for a while) and produced the usual smoke cloud.

 

post-17457-0-31887700-1506004443_thumb.jpg

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Charging woes.

 

The Toledo has just started to do the charging light flicker at idle thing.

Multi meter says 12.8 Volts at idle rising to 13.5 at some revs.

 

So is the Alternator fucked or the regulator bit of it as it is pretending to be a dynamo!

 

I shall look what I have 'in stock' but not too hopeful.

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I didnt know you had a Scimitar! MOAR PLZ

Erm.....not a lot to say really, needed it so bought one without MOT drove to MOT station burst brake pipe on test, obviously didn't* drive it from the test then fix the issues the failures and drive about in it for a few months before parking it up to join the queue!

 

It is probably the worst one left but it is ace.

 

When you say some revs - how many?

13.5-14ish is usually decent for 2000rpm.

 

I'd say reg - just make sure it doesn't do overcharging (Skoda Felicia, I'm looking at you!)

 

No rev counter so calibrated* guess would be 2000 but it should be constant despite the revs (unless I am mistaken) 

If its an alternator conversion does the regulator still actually regulate or is it just left passively in circuit?    Seems more like a diode failing in the alternator itself.    The Lucas 17ACR substitutes you get these days shit these for breakfast.

 

I have no idea if it was originally a dynamo or not, not my doing, I can get a photo.

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If there is a separate black box regulator (like an RB340 or similar) it points to there originally having been a dynamo generator, since replaced by an alternator.    I haven't come across a conversion where these still regulate charge - that function is usually built into the alternator.   Somebody much more clued up than myself can probably suggest a way to test the alternator itself and confirm the faulty diode pack - I usually just test by replacement!

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The offending item

 

post-17457-0-59719200-1506682775_thumb.jpg

 

Chock block goes to a supressor on the mounting bracket.

 

post-17457-0-91451200-1506682792_thumb.jpg

 

Comedy* rusty oil filter which isn't that old!

 

post-17457-0-47621900-1506682806_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

All the wiring looks 'standard' apart from the red crimp in the centre of the second picture but this was to bypass the ballast resistor when the electronic distributor was fitted.

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Thinking about it, weren't these A/C from the off anyway?   Can't remember....No, I feel that the fault is in the unit although the fiddler in me would replace that earth lead!   At least your alternator is on the "Ford" side which makes exchange a little bit easier - BMC stuff is on the "wrong" side and you have to strip the thing to change the front plate round.....

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Thinking about it, weren't these A/C from the off anyway?   Can't remember....No, I feel that the fault is in the unit although the fiddler in me would replace that earth lead!   At least your alternator is on the "Ford" side which makes exchange a little bit easier - BMC stuff is on the "wrong" side and you have to strip the thing to change the front plate round.....

The earth lead is actually only a few strands and the rest are good, it is on the 'list' of stuff I should do!

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Continuing on the charging issues Chuck was out Friday night in deepest darkest Cupar. On trying to head home the Clio decided starting was an option not on the list of options, luckily Robin (Reb on here) was manning the jump leads and the Clio had little choice to comply.

 

Today I had a quick look:

 

post-17457-0-01369800-1506891384_thumb.jpg

 

All seemed ok with the battery having Volts a plenty and whilst running the alternator seems to be alternating correctly. Due to finding no issues I decided to have a plan B to fall back on.

 

Introducing Plan B:

 

post-17457-0-57605800-1506891725_thumb.jpeg

 

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Was the starting issue that the motor would not turn, or that the engine would spin but not catch?

 

It was the typical dregs of battery one turn and then done. (at least that was what I was told)

 

If jump pack fails, replace the crank sensor and clean connector. In a pinch to get it running again, clean the crank sensor and splay the pins out slightly in the connector on the crank sensor too.

 

I will bear this in mind for actual failures as I believe this may* have been down to extra use of the stereo without the use of the engine to keep the volts present!

 

She has been informed of the possible cause and effect.

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I went to fit the new alternator to Sonic today and got sidetracked but during the slightly extended trip this happened:

 

post-17457-0-74651300-1507219194_thumb.jpg

 

This is how I got distracted, wheels back on the Series 2 and a bit more out of the way after discovering it needs a least a bit of welding on the dumb iron. That can wait. So I got Gwen into prime position.

 

post-17457-0-12727400-1507219310_thumb.jpg

 

Final picture of me living the dream.

 

post-17457-0-17071800-1507219466_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Since my last successful* job of car fixing Sonic has done about 300 miles but I will need five seats in the next week so he has to have a brief rest. Luckily* I have the Alfa that can seat many, unfortunately only the outer two of the seat belts in the back work as the middle 'socket' doesn't fit the buckle of the middle belt. This I assume is due to the seat change PBK did.

 

I went to my local scrapyard and was told that any Alfas they get in they do not keep as there is no money in it for them.

I browsed ebay and found several of the part I required so bought the cheapest and it arrived the next day. 

I had a mega fight getting the old bolt out and quite a fight getting the new* one in but the job was finally done. Now I have a five seat car that would actually pass the seatbelt part of the MOT. Buoyed by this success I decided to take the victory and do nothing else car related.

 

The old one which is going in the 'might come in handy pile' until I see sense and throw it away.

 

post-17457-0-49046100-1507895744_thumb.jpg

 

The first time in a while that it has been able to do this.

 

post-17457-0-45016500-1507895779_thumb.jpg

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I discovered* that my Carina has 'different latch' for the lappy than l/h shoulder, when No1 anklebiter got in, after collecting the car, and "sometimes can/sometimes can't" click the back seatbelt.

 

*resolved = slid 'centre'/ lap buckle under the seat back so only 2 latches are seen.

 

I never sit in the back.....

 

 

 

TS

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