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Retroshite


DodgyBastard

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Maiden voyage on the v80 didn't go well, started dying a few miles from home and wouldn't rev past quarter throttle.

Discovered exhaust was blocked full of carbon so chopped it open, removed the internals and welded it back together.

Seemed to sort it out but was bloody loud so shortened it some more and welded a kdx200 silencer onto it.

It runs far better than it should do and managed heady speeds of 45mph. I know 2 stroke expansion pipes are supposed to be designed a specific way but chopping and guessing seems to have done the job. Definitely needs to go up a jet size as it now runs best with the choke engaged.

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It seems I should have left the smokey but reliable s100 engine in it rather than gamble on a random 130 engine known for being extra fragile hgf wise, fucking things!

Bleeding these simply entails parking front end down topping up the header tank and opening the bleed valve till runs out and tbh even if you fail to bleed it properly it just puts the heater out of action. 

All the skoda engines are tricky as the alloy block inevitably stretches up around the hot thermostat end leaving the liners 3 and 4 flush with the block deck, if the issue isn't massively bad it is possible just shim them up over so that the liners are protruding by the right 0.14ish mm amount relative to the deck but stepping up ~ 0.05mm relative to each other towards the rear of the flywheel end.

Another way to rectify the issue is either deck the block to 95mm above the liner seats or fit a K series which ironically are bang on reliable in these 

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11 hours ago, Jikovron said:

It seems I should have left the smokey but reliable s100 engine in it rather than gamble on a random 130 engine known for being extra fragile hgf wise, fucking things!

Bleeding these simply entails parking front end down topping up the header tank and opening the bleed valve till runs out and tbh even if you fail to bleed it properly it just puts the heater out of action. 

All the skoda engines are tricky as the alloy block inevitably stretches up around the hot thermostat end leaving the liners 3 and 4 flush with the block deck, if the issue isn't massively bad it is possible just shim them up over so that the liners are protruding by the right 0.14ish mm amount relative to the deck but stepping up ~ 0.05mm relative to each other towards the rear of the flywheel end.

Another way to rectify the issue is either deck the block to 95mm above the liner seats or fit a K series which ironically are bang on reliable in these 

 

It might be ok, the guy I sold it to never bled it when he changed the thermostat so maybe if I get it flushed out and bled correctly it'll be fine.

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Ged has been working on his 305 a lot recently in a bid to get it motd for the car meet this Sunday.

I dread to think how much time and money he's sunk into it. From replacing all of the braking components, discs, drums, lines to 3D printing moulds to make home made subframe bushes from polyurethane and everything in between.

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Unfortunately it didn't achieve a clean pass, the interior mirror fell of during the test and the horn stopped working. A couple of holes in the boot floor turned into massive holes after cleaning it back to fresh metal.

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Colour match is phenomenal with a can of Ford burgundy red.

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Ged's 305 passed the retest yesterday but broke down a few hours later when the engine consumed its own oil through the air intake... Shit luck, most likely needs another engine.

In other news I swapped the unsaleable A3 for a phase 1 306 XRD.

 

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Nice enough car, drives fine. Seller failed to mention that the key for the ignition doesn't unlock the doors and there's only 1 key.

Ordered a lock set off ebay so not the end of the world. Should hopefully be easier to flog than the Audi although it is quite a nice car so might keep it for a week or two.

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I had a day off work today and with nothing better to do I got stuck into welding the LDV.

 

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rust cut out, inner sills patched up followed by the outer sills and runner for the sliding door.

Also patched up the front bumper mount as it was hanging off.

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Only one bit of welding left to do from the mot failure and I'm not sure which part needs done, it says suspension components near side rear cross member but can't find any significant rot.

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Could it be the web on the end of the crossmember that's cracked? Happened on mine and it was quite hard to detect, because it ran perpendicular to the chassis rail (i.e., longitudinally into the crossmember) and was quite near the end. It wasn't rotted out either, it was a stress fracture.

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12 hours ago, CreepingJesus said:

Could it be the web on the end of the crossmember that's cracked? Happened on mine and it was quite hard to detect, because it ran perpendicular to the chassis rail (i.e., longitudinally into the crossmember) and was quite near the end. It wasn't rotted out either, it was a stress fracture.

Wishful thinking it's the crusty part of the chassis next to where the shock mounts that was easy to access and I've just welded up.

Looking at it last night I think it might be the bit behind the rear bumper which looks like a pain in the arse to access.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I raffled off a few cars recently, 306 sold out instantly at £20 a go followed by the 205 at the same money.

 

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I swapped the Simson Star for a ropey Impreza.

 

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I raffled that off too at £20 a go, it made just under £1k in ticket sales so I just gave whatever numbers were left to random people and Ged had the misfortune of winning a car he never bought any tickets for.

 

 

I went for a run up by Crieff for a monthly MZ meet.

 

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Bumped into a couple of bike snobs (not part of the MZ group) who said my bike was ancient and I needed to wash it. I very much wanted to tell them to piss off. 

Also bumped into someone who attended one of our retro car meets who recognised me and came over for a chat.

 

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He was on his bike today but turned up to the meet in this last time and said he'd probably come along on the 28th, nice to have the odd bit of shiny shite on show.

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