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DodgyBastard

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 minute ago, Fumbler said:

Nice. How well is the body holding up?

33712454331_9cec993b2b_c.jpgLada Riva 1500 by srblythe, on Flickr

33713831521_1759da5fe1_c.jpgDSC_0737 by srblythe, on Flickr

This was in 2017

 

48809896022_56c473bb05_c.jpgDSC_0015 by srblythe, on Flickr

48809750546_959622f9da_c.jpgDSC_0014 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

And today, a little bit rustier and a lot dirtier.

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I took the Lada a tour of Perthshire, there seemed to be a small amount of vibration/wobble on the motorway on the way there so I took a slower more scenic route from Kinross up through Creiff, along past Kenmore and up to the dam at Ben Lawers.

48886476872_96172110f3_c.jpgRJC_2067 by srblythe, on Flickr

48886298516_d7ff20fd7e_c.jpgRJC_2069 by srblythe, on Flickr

48885773618_2c73782be3_c.jpgRJC_2130 by srblythe, on Flickr

48885778128_39e76d798d_c.jpgRJC_2144 by srblythe, on Flickr

48885778973_6a78bcb96d_c.jpgRJC_2157 by srblythe, on Flickr

48885781263_b6ee17f2c0_c.jpgRJC_2171 by srblythe, on Flickr

48885781898_f1e1034104_c.jpgRJC_2174 by srblythe, on Flickr

48885782463_a25520a572_c.jpgRJC_2179 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

It was only on the return journey that I noticed something was really not right.

Anything above 60mph it violently wobbled which made the whole car vibrate, Initially I thought my wheels were falling off so stopped to check the wheel nuts which were all tight. I set off again and the vibrations continued followed by a rattling noise coming from the rear wheel, I could see bits flying off in my mirror and the rattling noise would stop but it would continue to wobble.

A little bit closer to home I left the motorway and had to stop at a junction, when I pulled away, the rear end swung out quite quickly and I thought; I've got a flat tyre!

 

48886320776_1ec8634a08_c.jpgRJC_2182 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

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20 hours ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Ooof! What brand of tyre is/was it?

Great trip, great car.

The tyre was a Yokohama, there was a set fitted on the car when I had it in 2017. When I bought it back a couple of weeks ago it had 3 Yokohama tyres fitted, one one the front and two on the rear. I noticed the front one was cracked between the tread and had a bit of a bulge in it so changed it. I didn't think to check the rear tyres.

I replaced the other tyres today and the other Yokohama was also cracked between the tread all the way round so chances are it would have done the same de-laminating if driven on for much longer.

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48963166823_39fc5b024d_c.jpgRJC_2278 by srblythe, on Flickr

48963897947_a5838a0ceb_c.jpgRJC_2282 by srblythe, on Flickr


I won a 2003 Toyota Yaris in a raffle at the cost of £20 and went to Newcastle on Saturday to collect it, on the way home I was passing through the borders when I remembered I knew someone there with a coupe of old cars for sale but had a preference for small Toyotas.
I asked if he would be interested in a swap for a Yaris?

He said: Sure, why not?


I swapped it for this...


48968689296_f1d60466e9_c.jpgRJC_2338 by srblythe, on Flickr

48968149078_8d2214c2c1_c.jpgRJC_2342 by srblythe, on Flickr

48968691771_6c1f7a7d8d_c.jpgRJC_2343 by srblythe, on Flickr

48968692421_3790e46764_c.jpgRJC_2345 by srblythe, on Flickr

48968693031_cc11d63bbe_c.jpgRJC_2347 by srblythe, on Flickr

48968693811_f578460082_c.jpgRJC_2349 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

A 2.0 auto Saab 900 with 77k on the clock, mot just expired but drives absolutely fine and has very little/no rust so really can't see it needing much.

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How are the 900s to drive? I always imagine, because they look quite futuristic and are apparently well built with punchy engines (I know maybe not this one), that they’ll drive like a newer car than they are. Am I wrong, and do they feel just as old as anything else from their era?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Late 8v injection is a good match to the auto I reckon.  Bit slow initially off the line, but is plenty punchy in the mid range.  30-70 dash will leave a normally aspirated 16v manual for dead.  Much to the surprise of my mate who had the 16v one...

Basically the saloon version of my old blue one...you got the deal of the century there I reckon.  Those command a decent price these days...even if the autos are a bit Marmite like it seems.  You either like them or you don't.  I reckon it actually suits the feel of the car really well.

Doesn't suit the 16v though, the torque curve is all wrong and makes it feel really gutless.

That looks bloody minty fresh...even the usually rotten fuel cap.  How are the door bottoms and driveshaft tunnels?

Swap for a fuel injected Riva Estate?

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55 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Late 8v injection is a good match to the auto I reckon.  Bit slow initially off the line, but is plenty punchy in the mid range.  30-70 dash will leave a normally aspirated 16v manual for dead.  Much to the surprise of my mate who had the 16v one...

Basically the saloon version of my old blue one...you got the deal of the century there I reckon.  Those command a decent price these days...even if the autos are a bit Marmite like it seems.  You either like them or you don't.  I reckon it actually suits the feel of the car really well.

Doesn't suit the 16v though, the torque curve is all wrong and makes it feel really gutless.

That looks bloody minty fresh...even the usually rotten fuel cap.  How are the door bottoms and driveshaft tunnels?

Swap for a fuel injected Riva Estate?

 

It drives really well, I don't think it feels particularly slow but I've never driven a 16v model to compare it with. It's incredibly solid all over and underneath, the only rust I can see is at the top of the rear doors where the window splits.

49035288662_a5be17f872_c.jpgsaab rust by srblythe, on Flickr

Door bottoms are all good, I've haven't inspected the driveshaft tunnels yet.

I'd certainly consider swapping it for your Riva at some point but I'm happy enough with the Saab for the moment.

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22 hours ago, DodgyBastard said:

 

It drives really well, I don't think it feels particularly slow but I've never driven a 16v model to compare it with. It's incredibly solid all over and underneath, the only rust I can see is at the top of the rear doors where the window splits.

49035288662_a5be17f872_c.jpgsaab rust by srblythe, on Flickr

Door bottoms are all good, I've haven't inspected the driveshaft tunnels yet.

I'd certainly consider swapping it for your Riva at some point but I'm happy enough with the Saab for the moment.

4/5 door doors always go there. 

The rear doors on these close with possibly the most satisfyingly solid sounding thud of those on any car I've had.

The driveshaft tunnels are probably the biggest killer of 900s as they fill up with crap and never dry out.  By the time the for breaks the surface externally, quite a bit of remedial work is needed.  Often it gets bodged as to do a proper "cut it all out and rebuild" job involves dismantling most of the front suspension.  I think finding four layers of metal there on my first one was my record.

If you do get bored with it, do feel free to drop me a line.  Lada will come with a full year's ticket and fresh wings waiting to be fitted.  The EFI side of things works just fine, just wants tidying up... I've just really fallen out of love with it because of the hassle I've had with a couple of prospective buyers (not on here - folks off the street responding to the for sale sign) and would rather have something I'll actually enjoy in its place right now.  If someone else gets a car they can enjoy out of the deal... I'm all for it.

 

My previous C900 was next to my current Xantia, the most overwhelmingly competent all round car I've ever owned I think and is a car I'll always miss.

IMGP0283.thumb.JPG.78afa6d9db6bf904481c04ebbfde92b0.JPG

The 16v engine is outright more powerful...but it's more peaky in its power delivery.  The 8v delivers much more of a big lump of torque in the middle of the rev band...which just happens to match up with the gear ratios really well.  It's one of those situations where on paper it looks the inferior choice...but in reality "just works" in my experience...even if a lot of the Saab crowd turn their nose up at them.

They really do handle far better than they should too, though are more sensitive to tyres than a lot of cars.  Uniroyal generally seem to get the vote.

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2 hours ago, Zelandeth said:

The driveshaft tunnels are probably the biggest killer of 900s as they fill up with crap and never dry out.  By the time the for breaks the surface externally, quite a bit of remedial work is needed.  Often it gets bodged as to do a proper "cut it all out and rebuild" job involves dismantling most of the front suspension...

IMGP0283.thumb.JPG.78afa6d9db6bf904481c04ebbfde92b0.JPG

...and this is exactly what happened to G772ERP (won in a roffle a year ago).  After a very enjoyable week long drive-a-thon I decided to treat this to some repairs.  I was originally thinking just rear shocks and a steering rack, but when we got it up on the ramp and started poking about the driver-side driveshaft tunnel and associated bits just crumbled away.  

IMG_20190605_154226.jpg

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