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Dave's shonkers - Golf GTI in


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HTH, double check the paperwork before you call them just to be sure as my incident was in 2012 so might have changed between now and then, but I'm fairly sure that its not one-strike-and-your-out, ragardless of blame.


Let us know how you get on.

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My stepdads had red cars for the past 30 years, as he says red is more easily seen and less likely to be crashed into


I call bollocks to that, ive had black, dark blue and dark green (and light blue) and only had one scuffed bumper on the meriva by an errant taxi. Got cash and pissed out of that, which was nice

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Thanks everyone and particularly Stanky for reading my terms and conditions for me, PROPPA LEDGE.


Focus man has rang and and he has been quoted £1900 or so for repairs so insurance it is.


I am thinking about reporting it to my insurance as an incident but not a claim, I'm really not bothered about getting the car repaired so all the inspection/derisory offer/cat C/D can hopefully be avoided.


I'm sure the other party will do their best to make out it's my fault though, so maybe I should claim anyway so I get something back?



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The Focus won't be written off, it's pretty low mileage (<20k according to my internet stalking) so has a pre-accident value around 7-8k, will deffo be repaired @ £1900 or so.


Insurance upd8: 


I am automatically at fault due to the fact I was reversing out, the other party has right of way.


I will not pay an excess as I am not asking for repairs to my car.


They will sort out the other party and I will just have to declare the claim in future and take the loss of no claims.

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It would be a bit of a gamble, "bottom book" on my car could be as low as 450 according to glass's, which wouldn't leave much with a 300 excess.


Also the swiftcover t&cs seem to state that the car will be removed if written off, which would make keeping the salvage more difficult.


I could potentially make some money out of a claim, but the car is a known quantity with recent cambelt etc etc and the family are quite attached to it.

I don't need the hassle of replacing the car for what could be a minimal payout.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Will try to keep this to mainly pictures as big walls of text are BORING.


I've managed to do everything off my Subaru to-do list from my last non-crash update.


Orange indicators fitted. They're a bit cracked but better than the smoked shiz.




Water feature found. Not mega clear from the picture but that's about an inch of water there.




Likewise in the side pockets. Looks vintage.





I was convinced there must be some sort of major leakage but t'internet assured me it was probably the lights. The approved manoeuvre is to seal them up with "Carafax non-setting bedding mastic" which I duly did.


Seems to have worked after a quick jetwash but I'll be driving around in "STI Type R Clubsport lightweight boot carpet delete mode" until I'm sure it's not leaking.




I've also fitted a towbar, detachable one got for a tenner off of ebay. Not quite a bolt on job due to JDMYO massive number plate holder, which sits exactly where the towbar cross beam bit wants to be.




Here's a megashonk photo of it with the bumper off.




I did what any sensible country would do and removed it and bolted the plate direct to the bumper.


Here's a shot of the back end with the towbar fitted. It's subtle, but definitely shows tailgaters I may tow things.



Finally a quick shot of the whole car with all the lights oranged and TWATMODE activated (the button for the driving lights switches the sidelights on for that genuine twazzock driver ambience.)



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  • 4 weeks later...

So, some bad stuff happened.


The steering lock / ignition switch broke on the Berlingo, the steering lock came on with the key in, this left me with a key that wouldn't come out and steering lock on.


Typically mine is different to all the cheap barrels on ebay with lengthy wiring that disappears behind the fusebox.


I managed to get the lock mech out but it did require a medium amount of dismantling.




Thankfully this was a cheap fix. With the barrel out you can dismantle it and remove the steering lock bit.

Job jobbed and at a cost of £0 and no need to have multiple keys etc.


I had been mainly driving the Subaru which decided to celebrate it's Preferred status by slipping the clutch under boost.


I've got an Exedy OMGOEM clutch kit for £130ish off of Euro car parts online and have so far spent a couple of hours on it, mostly buggering about with the turbo to downpipe nuts.


This picture of the rear of the engine is for me to refer back to if I forget where things go.




This nut is well and truly rounded, last one, typical.



The rounded nut is right at the bottom in the area under the light.



There's no space to hammer a smaller anything on it so I spent 25 quid on a set of Irwin bolt grip sockets, as recommended by the internet, naturally they've done SHAG ALL so it will need dremelling off.

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Thanks people.


Have also remembered I forgot to add that I redid the insurance on the Berlingo the other day, with the claim declared it's gone up from £300 last year to £350 this year, not too bad but I have got another car and a motorbike to renew as well later in the year.

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Subaru update:


No further progress with the rounded turbo>downpipe bolt. Tried welding, can't get the torch in. Tried dremelling, the thing won't fit down the available gap.

I've ordered a flexible dremel extension which should sort it but hasn't arrived yet after ordering last Thursday. I think the ebay seller might be a massive tool and lying about their location, it says Nottingham but I wouldn't be surprised if it turns up from China.


Could have got a proper Dremel one locally for £20 more and probably will do and send the ebay shite back if it doesn't turn up by Thursday.


Anyway, today I've been getting on with the bits I can do such as removing prop and driveshafts and draining the oil.


I've also pulled the rear diff while I'm there as it has some leaks:




Driveshaft seals don't look too bad but I'll replace them seeing as I've already bought the seals.




Hilariously, the pinion seal looks the worst and I haven't bought that one, could have saved £3 postage by ordering at the same time as the rest.



Here is the gearbox drain plug, I was slightly worried about the presence of metal filings but have decided it's not too bad, the box wasn't making any bad noises and it's surely at least as good as an unknown box off a breaker. Most of what's on the plug actually turned out to be oily sludge rather than metal bits. (Have tried and failed to right way up the pictures, SOZ)




So what do we think, are my plug findings nothing to worry about or will the box grenade within 5 miles of refitting?



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I'll take that bet.


I should probably open a book on how long it will take me to finish the clutch, we are well into the 2nd week and the gearbox isn't actually off yet.


To celebrate my incompetence I've bought these wheels. Quite rare i think, BBS in Subaru fitment, only info I can find online is the odd thread of vag boys wondering how to make them fit a golf - would need about 20mm spacers as they're ET55.


One is a bit bent but I'm hoping that won't cost too much to sort out, any recommendations in the West Yorks or Manchester areas for wheel unbendage anyone?





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Got new wheel unbended yesterday at this place - http://www.rimtek.co.uk/


Highly recommended - cost £35 compared to £60-100 quoted elsewhere and had it done within 2 hours.


Nice chap, really knows his stuff, can weld up cracked rims as well.


So the flipping dremel extension thing turned up on Saturday, 9 days after I ordered it. They got a 1 star feedback for dispatch time.


Got some time up the garage on Sunday to achieve this:




Then been back up today to remove the gearbag. In my excitement to get it out I may have dropped it on my own head slightly, but it was nowhere near as bad as the time I caught a Vectra B subframe to the forehead and immediately got a golf ball sized lump.


But I digress.


Old clutch, looking fucked.




Old vs new friction plates.




Flywheel doesn't look too clever so am taking it to see if it can be skimmed.





And Euro Car Parts have sent me the right clutch - I'm always nervous about shit from there being wrong even though it's been years since the last time.

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Slight update, no potatocam pictures this time, SOZ.


Flywheel has been left at a place in Bradford, quoted "about 75 plus vat" for a resurface which is a bit more than I thought but better than a new one at £150 or so.


Got the diff seals done today and the diff back in, just needs refilling with oil.


Will be up the garage again tomorrow with plans to sort out the turbo studs and do the driveshaft seals on the gearbox so its ready to go back in.

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Do not forget! Don't ask how I iz knowing this.




Did it today, first job.

No pics but if you imagine a man in blue overalls lying on the floor at the back of car with a hosepipe in one hand, a funnel in the other, and a 5l bottle of gearbox oil in the third hand, you've got the idea.


Turbo studs are out.


From left to right:

Attempt 1 - forgot that clean metal is a good idea and welded rusty nut to rusty stud. Zero penetration, didn't stick.

Attempt 2 - cleaned it up this time, better weld but the stud sheared off where the dremel had cut partway through it.

Attempt 3 - Success!



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I also just got a call from the engine rebuilders that my flywheel is ready.


When I rang about it initially they asked what is was made of, cast iron or steel. 

I said cast as it looks like the finish of sand casting to me in the non-machined areas.


Anyway dropped it off and the matey said it was steel, hence the higher price.

Whatever, I'm not the sort of person to tell someone how to do their job.


Turns out it is cast so was easier to machine so only costing £50+vat. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Check out the glacial pace of my spannering yo.


Clutch is done, I actually got it pretty much boxed off last Thursday but needed a couple of new bolts for the turbo>downpipe joint and tried to do something with the speedo drive. It had clearly been leaking from there and a new one is £50 odd. Tried wobbing the seal back up with sikaflex which didn't work, tried making a new one out of a tap washer but that didn't work either. Have just put it back together as is for now and am looking for a reasonably priced second hand one.


I'm happy to report that the clutch is now lovely and smooth with a sensible biting point, was high and juddery when I first got it.


Here's a shit sideways photo of the car not in the garage and not on axle stands.


(If anyone can help me with making photos not sideways that would be good - I'm not an idiot but they're the right way up on my computer, and come out sideways on here whatever I do.)




It's not strictly ready for service yet as the front calipers are sticking on - I've got a rebuild kit for them so want to do that before using it to blat along the M62 to uni and whatnot.


It's been evicted from the garage in favour of this:




Which is my wife's new car. Needs a few bits doing before going into service, namely a service, a thermostat, sort out stiff gearchange and creaky wishbones and probably other stuff as I go.


Will do an Alfa based update next time.

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Good job and much respect,i loved my Wagon.

The clutch went on my old one after i had been towing a fuck off big trailer and generally over loading it while renovating my house.






I didnt take the gearbox right out of mine i just supported the engine with a crane and slid the gearbox back on a jack just enough to get my hands in the gap to swap the clutch over.

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Thanks gents, Joey I don't have a crane and also wanted to fix some leaks from the diff and box while i was there.


Slight update: drove it to work, all ok except for the smokescreen coming out of the bonnet scoop, some plank lobbed a load of gearbox oil on the hot side of the turbo.

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So as mentioned we've bought this Alfa and it needs a few bits doing before being pressed into daily service.


Firstly, the gear linkage. It's a common problem, basically the side to sidey bit runs through some plastic bushes and it seizes up. You can buy a whole new "selector plate" for about £20 or you can buy these bushes for <£5.


In a triumph of manufacturing over serviceability, you have to remove the entire battery tray and fusebox to access the area we're after.


Hmmm... looks like someone has been here before and sprayed a load of grease about.





Anyway extracted the problem pin thing which looks like this:




Cleaned it up with some wet'n'dry:




Reassembled it with the new bushes, slathered the moving bit with grease, gearchange is now SEXYTIME with 2nd to 3rd possible without sweating or swearing.


The next job was to have a general poke about and try lubing some of the suspension bushes which seemed a bit creaky on the drive home.


My friend with the spray grease has been here as well.







I sprayed some silicone lube about anyway, can't hurt can it. If it doesn't make any difference we might just have to live with a creaky car, the bushes all look a bit old but don't seem to have any play in them and I'm sure it will be $$$ to replace all the suspension links front and rear.


Next is a service, and thermostat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alfa is now in use as of Monday this week, Mrs_Dink is very pleased with it.


The greasing of the bushes has quietened down most of the creaks so that will do for now.


Did the rest of the service as well as some critical jobs like new badges.








Old air filter was minging, not surprising considering you have to remove the undertray and lie on the floor to fit one.



Oil filter is flipping tiny so will make sure I keep on top of changes.



Bonus shit spottage. Have previously seen this advertised on Gumtree as a Subaru replica.

I know it's hard to tell but it's actually based on a Rover.



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The Subaru has now made it's way back into the garage as I'm rebuilding the front calipers.


They were sticky when I first got it, I gave them a non-dismantling clean and grease but the offside one stuck on near solid when I was doing the clutch.


So here they are off the car.




And here's the pistons out. Mucky but not pitted or anything so well saveable. The inside of the caliper bodies seems to be full of shite so I'm guessing the dust boots haven't been doing.




General shite musings: I really thought I had a "shite strategy" sorted - 1 x modern(ish) practical car, 1 x "classic" sporty car and a motorbike for extra fun times.


I just seem to have a constant want-on for something else, it's a good job I have limited space or I'd be bringing a stray car home nearly every week.


Since getting the Alfa for my wife, a 156 2.4JTD sportwagon is currently residing in Wantage town centre. It doesn't help that they are well within my price bracket, have seen some slightly broken ones in the sub £300 area.


But that would have to be my " modern", and wouldn't really have enough space for going on holiday etc, unless I got a trailer or something....


I would probably then want to get something more van like for my classic, a T4 or a Delica or something. To be honest the Subaru just doesn't seem that fast to me, probably because I'm comparing it to my fireblade which has about 500bhp/tonne even with my fat arse on it.


Maybe it wouldn't be a T4, maybe an E32 7er, or an Audi 100, or an E30 cabrio, etc, etc, etc....


What I should probably do is not buy anything and fix the cars I have.


Mrs_Dink thinks I prefer buying them to actually driving or fixing them, she might be right.

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