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Rusty Triumphs in Scotland - Dolomite in "most reliable" shocker - 08/02/24


captain_70s

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I can't think of a single car with a choke I've owned that'd needed more than a fingers width of movement on the choke cable. Full choke stopped everyone of them ever starting.

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Just watched both vids. Your calm approach to the task(s) at hand and unflustered demeanour is a source of great interest to me. I suggest you write a book called "The Patient Approach to Car Maintenance". I will buy the first copy, then a backup copy to read in the garage when I invariably start throwing my tools everywhere.

 

For example, adjusting the valve and finding the screw has moved slightly as you undo the locking nut.

 

You: (soft voice) I have failed. Lets try that again.

Me: Bastard.

 

You: The margin for error is quite narrow.

Me: BASTARD.

 

 

Later, when fitting the new rocker cover gasket.

 

You: There goes the gasket, all over the place.

Me: There goes the gasket, over next door's fence. SHITHEAD.

 

You: It's times like this when a blob of sealant would be most handy.

Me: Hi, is that the scrapyard? I need a car taking away right now. Did I mention it's on fire?

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After 6 years of this shitheap of a car I think it's less patience and more quiet resignation... I save swearing loudly for shearing bolts in inaccessible locations or breaking parts I have no spares of.

 

post-19482-0-80079100-1543281332_thumb.jpg

 

I did at least make it home, 50mph is an absolute maximum speed if you don't want the car to vomit all it's oil out the exhaust on the overrun. This is classic valve seat recession behaviour, ideally the head needs to come off and be hardened and new valves lapped in. There is also a fair bit of piston slap and the big end/main bearings are utterly shagged. I suspect the car has done 138,000 miles rather than the indicated 38,000 so a bit of wear is to be expected...

 

post-19482-0-37378000-1543281300_thumb.jpg

 

Starting is a bit of an art as it'll only really fire after you stop turning the key. Clearly the starter is nicking all the juice although plenty of people run their cars with a standard 12v coil and no ballast resistor with no ill effect so I reckon something is amiss with my example.

I was over-choking the car when trying to start it in the manner I used to before I readjusted everything. It now starts almost instantly with the slightest bit of choke (and the fast idle engaged by proxy) if you manage to get the starter/spark method correct.

 

Car now heats up a bit better with the 88C stat and seems to sit at the 1/3rd mark on the gauge most of the time despite it being frost out tonight! I reckon the linearity of the gauge is a bit on the uneven side as I've definitely had the car overheated and the needle pinned to the maximum mark but operating temp is around 1/3rd...

A cable to the heater seems to have snapped but I'm not quite sure what exactly it controls, so that'll need looking at.

 

Still idles like shit and tries to die when it gets hot, but it fires up happily enough and doesn't struggle to move like it used to. The leaky exhaust downpipe blasting hot air straight at the base of the carb probably won't be doing much good in this regard and it runs too well in every other regard to be worth "fixing". So I'm moving on to other things!

 

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Disregard my last message, not worded great. Now you know your loosing spark when cranking, get someone to help you if poss but try this. Put ignition on and measure voltage at coil make sure its 12. Then crank engine and measure voltage again, it needs to be 12 or there abouts, if its not try putting a jump lead from negative terminal on battery to engine block and crank it again and measure voltage. If still shit to fire run a wire from battery pos terminal to coil posative and try that. Regarding the smoke I know engine is worn but just make sure you haven't got a blocked breather pipe

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spitting the dummy is mandatory, you cant work on anything without swearing. Cpt if the lump has done 138k for a old engine then thats good going, 50k was ambitious for a 70's lump back in the day, plenty of good shops to rebuild it or just get the block bored and honed and do the rebuild yourself, I am sure the mrs wont mind a oily engine on the dining table

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If you suspect an earthing issue let's start with some nice simple stuff which isn't a bad idea to do on cars of this age anyway.

 

Go buy two earth leads.  Nice thick ones, or if you have terminals and a crimp tool, just get some suitable flex and make your own up.

 

Route one from the bodywork to somewhere on the engine or gearbox.  Route the other from the body to battery earth terminal.  That way you know you've got a good earth and can stop worrying about it.  Costs a few quid, should take minutes and may rediscover some lost volts...if we're really lucky it might even sort your loss of spark while cranking too.

 

Is one of the first jobs I do usually when getting a new car after I had a Pug 306 suffer a *total* electrical failure in the pitch dark, pouring rain in the middle of nowhere when the earth lead fell off the crimp at the battery terminal.

 

Rather unnerving being broken down on an unlit road in bad weather and not even able to use hazards...

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I have some spare earth cables kicking about, I'll rig them up at some point.

 

Took this heap for a spin this afternoon, was a PITA to start and then I realised I had the heated rear screen turned on. A device that uses so much power the manual advises only using it in short bursts...

 

Once on the road it drove pretty well, went out to Bearsden and then over to Milngavie and it never missed a beat. Passed a broken down Clio IV and a Golf Mk6 to boot. Once I got back I tweaked the idle speed up a touch so now it doesn't want to stall, I wonder if the adjust screw is moving around...

 

post-19482-0-50576800-1543599510_thumb.jpg

 

Now I just have to sort the Acclaim which won't start in the cold unless the choke is all the way out, idles too slowly and doesn't want to go any faster than 60mph on the motorway...

 

I've also run out of money and have emptied my savings account in order to survive. Marvellous times.

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As mentioned in the News 24 thread I blew up the 1300's engine...

 

post-19482-0-70564000-1544052134_thumb.jpg

 

Copy/paste:
 

 

Lost a big end bearing going down the motorway on my way back from an Aussie Floyd gig. Ended up on the grass twixt the lanes and a slip road.

Police escorted me backwards up the sliproad and I limped a mile to Lockerbie.

Naturally I had no recovery and my phone had 10% charge. My mate who'd gone to the gig with me was staying with his parents near Carlisle but they'd all had a drink by this point so couldn't drive. A rapid call to hotels/taxi companies by all parties was fruitless as it was midnight and everywhere was closed.

I then joined the RAC to be informed AFTER I'd paid that they'd not recover the car for 24 hours.

It was now freezing so I decided to try and drive to my mate's parents place in Longtown along back roads.

A mile outside Gretna the rhythmic knocking of the increasingly fucked crank (top speed 30mph, no oil pressure) was replaced by many, many out of time sounds which heralded the end of the engine's life.

I then started pushing the car until an uphill stretch forced me to shove the car off the road.

I ventured to a nearby house and the hippie stoner fella who lived there was an absolute legend who made me a cup of tea and lent me a phone charger (down to 2% charge).
He worked as a chef at a local hotel and managed to blag me a room.

This morning my mate came to pick me up and we'll head back to Glasgow this eve. The car will be recovered at some point.

 

The car did well, I declared the engine needed a rebuild 11,000 miles ago. 138,000+ miles is a good life for a Triumph OHV and it did 30 of them with a missing bearing...

 

post-19482-0-58218300-1544052168_thumb.jpg

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The car did well, I declared the engine needed a rebuild 11,000 miles ago. 138,000+ miles is a good life for a Triumph OHV and it did 30 of them with a missing bearing...

That's a very positive way of looking at it.

 

If it was me, I'd be saying "I have only just got you running properly and you rewards me by doing this. You utter bastard."

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Reet. Recovery plans.

 

I'm now a member of the RAC so I'll get them to recover the car. Unless I do it today after work (unlikely due to lack of funds and arsedness) it'll be next Friday before I get the chance to head south again. We're looking at £17 and 3 hours by train.

 

Repair plans.

 

There are none. I am properly destitute having just emptied my savings account in order to pay November's rent.

Safe to assume the engine is unsalvageable, it was suffering from piston slap and a worn top end anyway, ancillaries are alright and can be saved.

Fitting another 1300 lump is by far the cheapest/easiest option.

 

Being MOT/tax exempt the car can sit on the street so that's what it'll do. I'd not fix it in the middle of winter even I could afford too.

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Would something like this do the job? I don't even know if that is decent money, though I appreciate (only too well) your current level of skintness.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-MK4-1300-ENGINE-BLOCK-30-thou/253985101891?hash=item3b22b11843:g:mQ4AAOSwEONb7wzR:rk:1:pf:0

 

ETA: maybe it isn't that cheap if this is anything to go by:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-1300-Engine/163394370382?hash=item260b103b4e:g:858AAOSwyUFb-YX4

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