Jump to content

Huge yank shite - odd jobs.


danthecapriman

Recommended Posts

Just had a look at this again, the putty seems rock hard but like a tit I tried to close the headlamp door by pushing it down just to see if there's anymore resistance in it and the spring inside has pushed a lump of the putty back out!

 

Here's the little twat thing!

image.jpg2_zpsbt1y5u4k.jpg

 

image.jpg1_zpsv6by2p70.jpg

It's not the easiest thing to photograph. But the big hole in the pic had a few smaller holes next to it, which are very firmly filled still. Also just about visible is the big blob of putty about halfway up the cylinder, this has two big holes under it which again are firmly filled.

The remaining hole, I've just bridged with an off cut of steel sheet then smeared another load of putty all over the top of it and sealed it all down. Just have to wait 30 mins or so for it to cure, then try again.

 

However, even with the one big hole still there I tried to run the car, the headlight door still does nothing but when gear is selected it didn't cut out! I tried going into D and R twice and it didn't cut out! Hopefully it's not just a fluke, but I'll try again once the putty is dry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CHRIST..... I wish (and likely a few others on here) we could stick our head under our daily and see just the tin/bolts/spotweld dimples and makkie old paint.... FWWOAHHHH....!!

 

:mrgreen:

 

TS

Yeah, I shouldn't complain really! No stupid plastic covers and other shit on this thing. And it's pretty easy to work too.

 

 

The putty has set, car has been run up to temperature. Gear selected and... No stalling! The revs drop down, as you'd expect and it continues to run while in gear and foot brake held. It will 'creep' now aswell, as it should when in gear. Before it would just splutter and stall.

It does still run a little rough for my liking and I think the idle speed is a bit low too, but it does seem to of made a difference.

 

The offer is still good for any of our US 'shiters' for the replacement cylinders/actuators btw! If anyone's able to help... Monies available for reward!

I'm sure there must be a few of these in breakers yards etc over in the US, they don't look too hard to remove either!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

So...

Would any of you guys in the states be willing to source me a couple (or at least one) of good ones?

Can do Dan. Have a look on "Autozone" car parts and see if  you can locate the part you need, then give me the details and i'll get it to you...............Or tell me the MAKE, MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE SIZE and i'll sort it.

 

Late response due to time difference............8hrs behind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since bodging up the vacuum tank I've had it run upto temperature (enough to get the engine warm enough to be off choke) then select gear, it stays running now.

Then I tried selecting gear and sitting there on the drive with it held on the foot brake in gear and it still didn't cut out. I tried all this over again a few times just to confirm it wasn't just a fluke. It managed to stay running every time and didn't need restarting once. Doing this before plugging the holes would have meant a restart every time gear was selected.

It still seems a little rough and the idle speed is a bit low. I don't think I had it hot enough to adjust it properly, so I'll give it a good run up this weekend then try re adjusting the idle speed hot.

 

Hopefully they will have something at DVAP and be willing to ship to the UK. I'd love to go over there and have a wonder around. I could easily spend days in the vast american scrap yards!

 

I've seen a conversion kit for Mercury Cougers to convert the old vacuum operated lights to electric motors. But it's expensive and would probably need modifying a bit to fit the Marquis.

And I've also spotted some Chevy Camaro vacuum actuators for the hidden headlights on those. The cylinders look very similar and they are available new still. I'm tempted to buy one and see if it will or can be made to fit. It does the same job but on a different car so may possibly work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a couple of more yards to visit tomorrow. Thing is, very few yards have any seventies chod in them, mostly seem to be full of modernish crap.

The only yards where I have seen older cars amongst the shit is out in the Anza desert along the Salton Lake, but that is a good hike from Temecula.

See if owt turns up in Fallbrook in the morning.

Edit to add ive seen them for Corvettes on Amazon

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&node=15684181&keywords=headlight+door+actuator&tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=3527346323&hvqmt=p&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8pgv850zlm_b

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Kev. I know what you mean, there's very few cars much older than about 15 yrs old in breakers yards here too. Not that I'd ever expect to find a 70's Marquis in a yard here of course.

 

The Corvette ones do look very similar. It's the pushrod that attaches to the headlight door that looks different. Nothing that couldn't be adapted with a grinder and welder though! Of course the the amount of travel on the push rod may be totally different, I think it may be worth a shot if nothing else comes up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. I live closer to the border. Most of the junkyards likely to have any 70's cars left will be around there. I'm having issues with my own bleeding chod but 'oo ain't? Once that's sorted out I'll be able to make a run at finding the part. I can also ask around at some parts stores; maybe I can get the parts from somewhere...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eureka! Apparently they can rebuild your actuators if these aren't the right ones. They're demanding a core before they ship anyway...and Bob just might be your uncle...and now back to our program... AUTOSHITE!!! YOUR GREEN YANK TANK IS our concern...this concludes our broadcast day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for trying Kev, much appreciated!

 

Hauserplenty, I've already looked on West Coast Classic Cougars website. I sent them an email, as they need a core part on exchange before they send out the rebuilt ones. I can't do this as mine is rusted through and too far gone to rebuild!

However, they put me onto another company, who I've emailed. They rebuild all this old vacuum stuff and the part I need is listed on their website for a 70 Cougar. They look identical. The only slight issue though is they are $450 each! Just need to see what they come back with, and wether they will post to the UK or not.

 

Edit: here's the link to the place,

http://crittercreekcougar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/7001002-Vacuum-Actuator-19701.jpg

Looks about right to me.

 

If you can ask around or locate any though I would really appreciate it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tend to agree with tooSavvy Dan.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but all you need to do is open a flap? With the accumulator removed and the vacuum line bypassed (so running isn't effected), the actual opening of the flap can surely be achieved using a solenoid and a pivot/lever? I appreciate it's not original but no-one will be able to see and we all promise not to tell anyone...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

I know what your saying, at the end of the day it's just moving a flap up and down but changing things to electric solenoid type operation isn't straight forward. It needs wiring in so it works from the original light switch, then the motors/solenoids need adapting to fit once you find some from somewhere that are suitable. Then they need to be set up to only open and close by a set amount so they don't run too far and damage something or burn themselves out. It's a right ball ache! And I'm shit with electronic stuff anyway.

 

It's a hell of a lot of money though for two stupid little metal tanks! I'm loathe to pay it really but it's the only way I can see of both properly curing the leak and getting the headlight doors working properly. At least if I get them then they will easily fit and work.

That said, I'm tempted to competely disconnect the vacuum supply to the lights so they stay up all the time, then make some little wedges to jam in to keep them down just so it looks the part. The car is unlikely to be driven at night anyway so who cares if they work or not!? If I need the lights I'll just pull the wedges out and let the doors open, same goes for the mot test.

I don't really know what to do for the best!

 

The priority for now I suppose is to plug the leak (which the putty appears to have done) so the engine runs properly and the car can be used.

Anyway, I'm off outside to run the car up and try putting it into gear again, see if it's still playing ball. Once it's hot I'll re-adjust the idle speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another little update to this!

 

It's been running for nearly an hour now, so its nice and hot.

I tried selecting gear several times and it kept running with no stalling. Revs dropped a fair bit and it felt like it was only just able to run but even held on the foot brake in gear for a few mins it still kept running.

 

Tried it again a few mins ago when it was hot and it's back to the usual shit! Select gear and the engine revs drop and it cuts out. So quick you can't even shift back to P or N!

I think blocking the vacuum leak has helped but there's definitely something else causing the problem.

 

I'm completely out of ideas now and I'm rapidly losing patience and interest. It's pissing me off immensely to the point I'd happily see it go around the oval!

 

So, tomorrow I'm going to have a chat with a specialist classic car garage/restorers and hopefully hand the car over to them with a list of stuff to fix and a blank cheque to pay for it! It's painful to admit defeat but it's now at the point where I have to do something or it's just going to end up out of mot and tax then sit rotting on the drive.

I just can not think of anything else to fix it. I've also had someone else take a look and set up the timing and carb and yet still the problem remains.

 

It's funny. You don't get all this shit with a pinto engine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get yourself a cheap vacuum gauge and then use this site http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm to interpret the readings.

 

Use carb cleaner to spray around the base of the carb and the intake manifold to check for vacuum leaks. DON'T use chlorinated brake cleaner to do this as it turns into nerve gas when combusted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The carb was set up by a local guy who does a lot of work on all sorts of classics. A Jaguar trained 'old school' type mechanic.

Trouble is, altering the mixture seems to make sod all difference to it! I've tried it with the mix screws all over the place and even the idle speed adjusted right up so the idle speed is as high as I dare try it and it makes no difference. Every time it goes into gear, revs drop as it takes up the gear then continue to drop until the engine just stops running. Restart it, try again and it's the same every time.

The only difference I seem to have made is blocking up the holes in the vacuum tank has stopped it happening when the engine is cooler. Now it's ok until the engine gets hot.

 

The carb has the correct mount plate, all bolts are tight. I've tried spraying the base and various other places to see if there's air leaks, I can't hear any obvious vac or air leaks either.

 

It's getting me down at the moment! I really am beginning to get sick of the sight of the thing. I've been emptying time and money into it for the last year and I've only been able to use it 3 times so far, and only one of those was a fault free drive.

I hate having to pay for things like this, but at the moment it seems like the only option I have left is to let someone else look at it and just throw more money at it. Anything just to get the thing fixed.

I've even toyed with the idea of getting rid of it! I really really don't want to though, and believe me I'm no quitter with things like this but this ones got me well and truly out of ideas and patience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...