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Huge yank shite - odd jobs.


danthecapriman

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I'd rip your arm off for that deal! I hate this country and the incompetent tossers attempting to run it.

 

 

Errm......, have you seen the sort of knuckle-dragging troglodytes who are queuing up for a shot at running this country?

 

It's as if the lunatic asylums have all been shut and the inmates are running free.  Please get me out of here before one of these dangerously stupid mouth-breathers get elected!!!!!

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It's the same here, except our government are just there to make menial decisions. Were actually run by unelected fat cats in Brussels! Apparently us Brits have to be told what type of vacuum cleaner were allowed, what type of light bulbs we can have and how straight our carrots must be! This is no joke, it's real!

 

Look at our politicians, they are the exact same knuckle dragging idiots you describe. Useless, the lot of em.

A lot of the inhabitants of this country are equally thick vile creatures too!

 

I guess nowhere is perfect! But I'd give anything to have the US lifestyle and the climate of some states too! This country really has very little going for it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got a little more done this weekend, although it wasn't exactly anything exciting, just sorting out little niggles.

 

Late last year I changed the alternator and battery. This had fixed the initial problem of no charging but ever since then the charging has been going downhill again, eventually resulting in another flat battery.

So since everything else is either new or known to be good the only thing left was the voltage regulator. On this car it's the separate type, instead of the type attached to the back of the alternator so there's a good chance it's either very old or possibly never been replaced.

It took me a while to actually find it, but eventually found it under the wing behind the battery! Given how big this car is and how much space there is available why they decided to put it in such a restricted space is strange but there you go!

Eventually got the old one out, and it's a OE part so possibly original! All terminals were badly corroded and one wire was split down to the core. This was repaired and all contacts cleaned and a thin smear of electrical grease applied to prevent future corrosion.

 

Here's the old filthy one, front and back.

image.jpg3_zpsyikz8o2o.jpg

 

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The new one is slightly different inside but the part numbers cross reference so in it went. It was a twat to get in given the total lack of room and you can't see what your doing and bolt it all in aswell, got there in the end though.

So, fired the car up and did a voltage test on and off load and the volts are right up as they should be. Success!

 

image.jpg1_zpsveshginj.jpg

 

So that's another job properly sorted.

After that I did some more cleaning and got all the chrome polished up. Took ages but well worth it. There are a few marks, scratches and little rust pits but it's not bad really for its age. I'll be looking at re chroming the bumpers eventually but for now they'll do.

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I was having a look through an old phone the other day and found a few pics from the shippers place in Milton Keynes. I've got more somewhere aswell but can't find them.

 

Kitt replica! It looked good but looks horrible to drive!

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This old Plymouth was stunning. Gorgeous looking car.

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My Mercury in the workshop and the silver Mustang is the unfortunate victim chosen to donate it's starter to get me running and back home. The Mercury, predictably chewed up this starter and spat bits of it out a few hours later!

20140912_140026_zpssxxr7o6s.jpg

The orange Elcamino in the back looked great from the outside but both floor pans had totally rotted away. Only found when it got into this country! It was getting new floors welded in at the time.

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which shippers was that Dan?

It was Ship my car (importmyvehicle ltd) in Milton Keynes. This is the old workshop. Just after my visit they moved it across the road into a bigger unit. When I was there the bigger unit was being used as a warehouse for recent arrivals. It was packed with all sorts of stuff, yanks, Italian exotica, modern and old!

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That's a fantastic looking car, a proper land yacht. I'd love to drive around Stateside in something similar.

Great how the problems are related to tangible items and not some computer error code.

Most of its problems aren't too difficult to sort out one way or the other. The spares don't seem too hard to come by either, it's just postage from the US that can add up sometimes.

 

I've started getting a few other bits and pieces that I don't necessarily need at the same time as essential parts, just to give me a small hoard of parts just in case, but combining the postage costs at the same time.

So far I've got: spare new alternator, pair fully recon front brake callipers, wheel cylinders, brake pads, sealed beam lamps, service parts, points/condensers, transmission filter and gasket and various other bits. Can save a lot of time later should I need them instead of waiting for international postage.

The other good thing with these is common parts shared with other more common Fords, like mustangs! The bits for these are sometimes already available in the UK.

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Agreed!

I find it strange that here I am in Europe, I own some old European Fords (nothing unusual) and struggle to get parts for them at times.

Yet I can go out and buy a massive american car never originally sold in this part of the world, which is older still than my European cars and can get more parts for that, and the quality is there aswell! Backwards!?

The only down side to these big yanks is that everything seems to be big and heavy to go with them.

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Most of its problems aren't too difficult to sort out one way or the other. The spares don't seem too hard to come by either, it's just postage from the US that can add up sometimes.

 

I've started getting a few other bits and pieces that I don't necessarily need at the same time as essential parts, just to give me a small hoard of parts just in case, but combining the postage costs at the same time.

So far I've got: spare new alternator, pair fully recon front brake callipers, wheel cylinders, brake pads, sealed beam lamps, service parts, points/condensers, transmission filter and gasket and various other bits. Can save a lot of time later should I need them instead of waiting for international postage.

The other good thing with these is common parts shared with other more common Fords, like mustangs! The bits for these are sometimes already available in the UK.

 

I had to get a water pump for the Galaxie, the postage cost was four time the cost of the pump. Found a mate that was visiting, and he agreed to bring it back in his suitcase, bless him

 

Agreed!

I find it strange that here I am in Europe, I own some old European Fords (nothing unusual) and struggle to get parts for them at times.

Yet I can go out and buy a massive american car never originally sold in this part of the world, which is older still than my European cars and can get more parts for that, and the quality is there aswell! Backwards!?

The only down side to these big yanks is that everything seems to be big and heavy to go with them.

 

I don't know the stats for my 292 Y-block production and use-wise but there hasn't been anything yet that I havent' found. Spark plugs (cost per plug) were cheaper than the MGF ones.

 

Body & trim parts are a different matter though. Always get a dry state car :-)

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  • 4 weeks later...

This thing has been really pissing me off lately! It's developed the irritating cutting out fault again.

 

To try to sort this out I decided to fit the electronic ignition kit. At the very least this will rid the car of an antiquated set up of points/condenser and ultimately should be far more reliable and maintenance free.

I've always thought 'why bother' with these kits as the old points type set up has done the job for years. However, my recent aggrevation involving the condenser causing no starting convinced me to try it.

The kit I got was a Pertronix igniter, everything needed is in the box. After the old points and condenser were stripped out of the dizzy the new wires were fed in and the electronic sensor screwed in place of the points. Another sensor thing was pushed onto the cam in the dizzy, then the rotor arm and cap go back on. Connect the wires onto the + and - terminals on the coil and that's it!

It immediately fired up and ran better than before. The timing was re set and the carb re set to get it running nicely.

 

It's definitely done some good as I've had it out on the road today and it feels much smoother and more 'responsive' but the thing still struggles when put in gear, unless it's given a little gas to stop it stalling. I just can't seem to get this problem 100% sorted!

But at least it's now drivable so I can use it.

 

I've also found the reason why only one headlight door works. I had a look at the little vacuum reservoir tank under the wing and it looks a bit rusty on the bottom, so naturally I poked it! My finger went straight through the perforated rotten metal! So it doesn't work because all the vacuum is leaking away, which also means the engine has an air leak in the system. I don't know if this is/can affect the engine running, especially at idle speeds?

 

It's not really weldable I don't think as the metal is so thin, so I cleaned it up as best as possible and plugged up all the holes with chemical metal putty! Yes it's a bit of a bodge but it'll do for now and should stop the leak.

 

As much as it's been pissing me off lately, getting it out on the roads for a good thrash has made me feel a bit more enthusiasm for it again! Once the putty has cured hopefully that will have sorted at least one other problem too.

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Is there another canister you can use that will take the pressure (or vacuum)?  Lotus used something similar for their pop up headlights and needless to say that wasn't particularly reliable either.  The engine produced most vacuum when you had your foot down so on a hard acceleration run the lights would stay down, when you changed up and took your foot off the throttle the spring would raise the headlights slowly and then as soon as you came back on the throttle the lights would slam down again.

 

Dunno what the working pressure of the system is but would a Beetle windscreen washer bottle do it?

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Is there another canister you can use that will take the pressure (or vacuum)?  Lotus used something similar for their pop up headlights and needless to say that wasn't particularly reliable either.  The engine produced most vacuum when you had your foot down so on a hard acceleration run the lights would stay down, when you changed up and took your foot off the throttle the spring would raise the headlights slowly and then as soon as you came back on the throttle the lights would slam down again.

 

Dunno what the working pressure of the system is but would a Beetle windscreen washer bottle do it?

The vacuum for the light doors shouldn't be a very high pressure, so some other type of canister reservoir would probably work perfectly fine. There's loads of space for it too so fitting one shouldn't be a big deal. I'll have a look around for something suitable. All it is, is a metal can with a pipe on each end! Certainly going to be easier than getting a yank one. Great idea! Thanks.

I did think about pulling the rubber pipes off and using a bit of copper brake pipe to join the two pipes together, bypassing the vac reservoir, just to stop the leak until I can find a suitable replacement.

 

I've got a good idea this thing leaking will cause crap running.

I think I'm right assuming engine vacuum pressure is fairly low at low (or idle) engine speeds, so any leaks in the system will interfere with the running/idle quality. It idles ok but as soon as gear is selected and the engine has a load put on it it quickly splutters and dies. The leak letting extra air into the inlet manifold, effectively diluting the fuel/air mixture?

It will stay running if you select gear but lightly press the gas pedal at the same time which would overcome the air leak.

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Yes, could be that that's letting it cut out at idle.  Once you've got some revs on it disguises a little air leak so you don't notice.  As it's got a chuffin great hole now there's probably no harm in just bypassing the reservoir with some pipe for a bit.

Thanks for the help!

I'll see if the putty stuff makes any difference tomorrow once it's set properly, there's loads of it on there to fill the holes!

If not I'll try bypassing it with some old pipe until I can find something to use instead.

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The Jaguar XJ40 has a vacuum tank - would one of these be a suitable size?

 

For £9.24 http://www.justjagsuk.com/product_details/Vacuum-Tank-Used/0/625412/?make=&model=

 

More expensive, but you can see a photograph of it:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-XJ40-XJ6-Vacuum-tank-CBC8870-93-94-models-/271541973158

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTM2NVgxMDI0/z/D6YAAOSwbqpTueSp/$_57.JPG

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTM2NVgxMDI0/z/4ywAAOSwwNVTueS~/$_57.JPG

 

They are about eight or nine inches tall.

 

I did try to post photos, but I find posting photos on Autoshite very hit and miss - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. This time it didn't! So you'll have to click the links! :oops:

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You could also try looking for a vacuum reservoir for a 90's Ford...they're plastic and spherical-shaped, and are used in the HVAC system to keep vacuum levels steady. You could likely use one to bypass that vacuum leak you described.

Have you set the curb idle with a tachometer? My mantra is always: set timing, then idle speed--since idle speed varies with timing. If there's a label on the car, follow its timing and idle settings as closely as possible, since emissions-controlled engines have much less leeway than the earlier ones. You could set timing a 60's engine by hand, and idle by ear, but by the 70's that was no longer feasible.

 

Having done so, you can also try the following:

Tighten all the screws on top of the carb. They often work themselves loose.

Tighten all the carburetor hold-down bolts.

Try adjusting the choke. It should be wide-open at normal operating temp, i.e. thermostat open and heater set to "immolate."

Look for vacuum leaks in the PCV system: the grommet on the valve cover dries out and can cause stalling. All hose connections to and from the air cleaner must be tight.

 

I suppose the grass is always greener on the other side of the puddle. It never rains in Southern California...anymore that is. Lawns are now illegal. So if you moved here you might not even see another blade of grass...unless you went to a golf course or somat. 150 miles east of here is (H)EL CENTRO. The locals call it that for a reason...

 

If any of you lot who have commented previously find yourselves 'round San Diego way, there's a teapot and kettle microwave oven and coffee mug on for yer anytime mates!

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Given this a little thought. The tank that's rusted through and leaking isn't a reservoir, it's the vacuum actuator that has a diaphragm inside and a rod coming out the top to push the headlight door open!

Which unfortunately means using any old tank won't fix the headlight door problem, though could still stop the vacuum leak.

This of course means only a Mercury or Lincoln vacuum actuator can be used to fix this properly.

 

So...

Would any of you guys in the states be willing to source me a couple (or at least one) of good ones? I will of course pay for the parts and postage to the UK, and also pay you for your time and effort! If anyone is willing to please let me know. I doubt I'll ever get any of these over here.

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Dan, could you convert them to electric/solenoid operation?

 

p.s., did you see the recent episode of Wheeler Dealers where he had the VW kubelwagen thing that kept cutting out? It was missing it's "throttle linkage damper", which is what I think mine is missing too

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