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mat_the_cat

Korean Cortina - the coolest Stellar in the UK?

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Don't give me ideas!

On 9/26/2019 at 10:12 PM, LightBulbFun said:

66.6Mph :)

The velocity of the beast!

I've been doing some calculations (based on driving at set rpm in each gear) myself, and if I make the assumption that the 2.3 Cortina axle contains the standard 3.44:1 diff, my gear ratios are as follows:

1st - 4.81:1
2nd - 3.04:1
3rd - 1.82:1
4th - 1.21:1
5th - 1:1

If however, I do have the 'standard' R380 ratios, that means I must have a 4.11:1 diff ratio. Once I fit the 3.09:1 diff I'll either be geared to a realistic 134 mph (rather than the theoretical 120 mph at present), or a massive 161 mph! Which I doubt I'd have the power (or the balls!) to reach.

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18 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

Don't give me ideas!

what do you think I have been trying to do! :mrgreen:

18 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

The velocity of the beast!

 

 

mobile_back1.jpg

 

:mrgreen:

18 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

or a massive 161 mph! Which I doubt I'd have the power (or the balls!) to reach.

 

reminds me of the Transit van XJ220 development mule :mrgreen:

(on a more serious note it will be interesting to see how drastic the change is in real life compared to how it sounds on paper)

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I will post up figures; I have recorded over the last 16k miles so a decent comparison.

But I am being side-tracked by another, far less important job on the car! I rhink I've mentioned the fact I'd quite like it if it wasn't immediately obvious that the engine came from a Rover, and although some people don't twig, the word R O V E R on the rocker covers is a bit of a giveaway...

So I was after something devoid of bling, something that would look like it could be a standard engine. And, thanks to @MorrisItalSLX these arrived today all the way from Australia! 

20191008_195334.thumb.jpg.665388b9a0de0a4538868695c28f5f82.jpg

The only question remaining is what colour to paint them? I was initially wondering about a black crackle finish, but then I thought that a repaint in the current blue might look quite nice, matching the filter and distributor cap. But probably wouldn't look OEM. Maybe silver? 

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Nice rocker covers! Blue is always a good colour imho, but it might make it look a bit ‘Ford’ like? They always used blue in the good old days.

How about red or orange? Should make them stand out too instead of blending in! You want to pop the hood and everyone know you have a big V8!

Or if understated is your thing satin black.

My wildcard suggestion... gold! 

Even I can’t decide!

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Understated is what I'm after! So satin black may be a good shout. (Especially if my mate can fit them in his powder coating oven, as that's the only colour he does!) But crinkle finish black might be a bit more special without looking obvious - plus cover any imperfections after removing the rust!

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Cut the Hyundai badge from a rocker cover like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYUNDAI-SANTA-2004-2-0-PETROL-ENGINE-COVER-29240-27101/122769820452?hash=item1c95a6cb24:g:p5EAAOSwc0FUqpBE

and epoxy onto one of your new covers before spraying them satin black. That would give a real OEM look!

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2 hours ago, blackboilersuit said:

Cut the Hyundai badge from a rocker cover like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYUNDAI-SANTA-2004-2-0-PETROL-ENGINE-COVER-29240-27101/122769820452?hash=item1c95a6cb24:g:p5EAAOSwc0FUqpBE

and epoxy onto one of your new covers before spraying them satin black. That would give a real OEM look!

To be a complete pedant, they didn't use that logo until 1992; the earlier one looks like the left hand side of this:

127080608_Hyundai-Logo-19741992.thumb.jpg.d47e275378e976add27d9d4acefeaee3.jpg

But yes, the idea of glueing on a badge had crossed my mind!

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It almost seems a shame to remove this label from my new rocker covers:

20191022_224403.thumb.jpg.92a2489302cc5bedfdc2b3f30af607db.jpg

"Hot run tested and electronically tuned" it proudly states.

But in true Leyland style, the label wasn't even applied straight!

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Let’s not forget that the bloke who put that sticker on was probably very well hydrated if you know what I mean.

I think that sticker would make a good T-shirt.

089EC327-80A4-402E-9603-A74ADF9EB5A8.jpeg.0a414e869510ef286be1a3fce47504ff.jpeg

As for what colour to paint them, I would go with a hammered finish, for variety, in a gunmetal grey or minty green.

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Too late! The decision has been made (at least for now...) First I took them in to work, and popped them in the sand blaster.

20191025_104333.thumb.jpg.ee730f5b9fd470635e5aa330d1363f9d.jpg

Then gave them to a mate who does his own powder coating (but only in satin black at the moment). He sent me a few photos:

received_408278833446565.thumb.jpeg.878d669e9319326322b5e6da924b1307.jpeg

received_557184111524723.thumb.jpeg.1f6ddc4ab4ec559b1bcb8914cf9e6e35.jpeg

And the finished job, which he says will dull down a bit once cool.

received_714271572382206.thumb.jpeg.b817a7ef8d97a8429b17366c53ef967c.jpeg

I figure that if they don't look right once they're on, I can always overpaint, and it'll have a good base.

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This week I did something I hadn't planned to do, and that is take the car out after they've started gritting the roads :-o Fortunately it hasn't rusted away yet, but I felt like I was being mean to it! In some ways it does make a good winter car, as no problems keeping warm behind the wheel, and the all-season tyres still grip well on the greasy tarmac. But soon I'll be laying it up until the spring.

I picked up my rocker covers this week too, but there were a few things I had to do before I could fit them. First of all I had to grind off the welded on breather pipe on the inside of one of them as it fouled on the rocker shaft.

20191031_202946.thumb.jpg.031cf9da7dbdf6487d6f6c7905991465.jpg

Then on to the holes left by the HT lead clips - the originals were broken anyway.

20191101_192640.thumb.jpg.b39f33a4083c649cfd37cea5fa48b5df.jpg

My plan was to fit an M6 rivnut (easy) then drill and tap an M6 screw down the centre, so I could screw some new HT lead clamps with an M4 screw. That was not quite so easy, especially with stainless steel! Only 0.4mm each side between the 4mm major diameter of the M4 screw and the 4.8mm minor diameter of the M6 screw I'm screwing into the centre of.

20191101_185137.thumb.jpg.c3aa5027b13857435f10a9f7cc8bebdc.jpg

My (cheap) carbon steel tap snapped with very little force, so I treated myself to a nice set of 3 HSS taps. New quality tools are always nice :-)

20191101_185216.thumb.jpg.bc446192cc18e6a67c9665894b34758f.jpg

So that done it was time to actually fit the rocker covers. Don't believe everything you read on the internet that they are an identical fit! Aside from the breather pipe, the gasket face is smaller so Rover V8 gaskets don't fit properly. The cork gaskets don't allow enough rocker clearance, and the rubber ones stick out too much. But anyway, I got them on and think they look smart!

20191101_184806.thumb.jpg.b77d67f4968191881bf71c3dfda937ae.jpg

20191101_184826.thumb.jpg.632968021ca78944ead604ab37a6b589.jpg

20191101_184708.jpg

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Arguably a better way of doing it would have been to weld up the hole with a washer before powder coating, to suit an M4 rivnut. But I only thought about it afterwards, and the existing hole was the right size for M6. That said, the bolt heads make a handy take-off for the HT lead clamps to hold them away from the surface.

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The first snow is forecast tomorrow, so this may be the last drive for a while. Although the good news about this is that I'll have chance to work on the air con installation and the axle work. It was a lovely day today however, so chance for a photo in the sunshine!

20191108_133646.thumb.jpg.a6dfdd63f9c214e1d6ff45b286ccf0f8.jpg

The thing I really like about this picture is that it still looks like a sleeper, even with the bonnet open!

 

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A definite garage day today, with snow falling and temperatures hovering around freezing. So perfect for chipping away at the AC installation then! The compressor is the next item I want to install, and I confess I took the easy option of buying some universal mounting brackets which will enable me to swivel the unit, to tension the belt.

vta-151015.jpg.f9b7e2cbe7190eb3d8ba15286d23aefd.jpg

Cutting these out myself would take longer than I'd like to imagine! With the lack of space in the engine bay though, the brackets needed cutting down considerably to fit.

20191109_213548.thumb.jpg.b5cef7e797218a4eccefcfd0297f1261.jpg

Yes, that is very thin but once I've welded this onto another plate at right angles, rigidity will be restored. This will be my compressor rear mount.

The front compressor mount I want to bolt up to the timing cover, but to get the belt alignment correct I need to set it back by 6mm. Handily, I'm using 6mm plate, so I just need to fasten one plate to the front of the timing cover, and overlap that with the slotted plate the compressor mounts to.

I made this up using an old timing cover as a pattern:

20191109_165242.thumb.jpg.08034a87412e609bcb9090a96f399001.jpg

Cutting this out with an angle grinder took a while! But once bolted up I could then overlap with the cut down slotted plate, and temporarily clamp in place with a small G clamp while I checked alignment:

20191109_213503.thumb.jpg.44160ef52d36e1dab4efa97bb5841029.jpg

Belt line looks good:

20191109_175214.thumb.jpg.4cbf3b0637fdb210a425b22bbd46d58a.jpg

But the question is, have I got enough movement of the compressor to tension the belt, without it fouling?

 

 

I'll call that a success :-)

Next job will be to either weld or bolt that together, and move onto the rear bracket. I'd like to weld it, but I'm not sure that if I do so, I'll be able to actually remove the compressor. I might have to end up making the bracket dismantlable in order to give me wriggle room.

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Ok, this picture might not look too different to the ones above, but getting to this stage took a good while!

20191117_230537.thumb.jpg.2f5170b1aeb928e994830088e0e8b374.jpg

The problem was, while the compressor was free to move, I hadn't realised it was actually resting on the front anti roll bar! So I zip tied a wooden spacer onto the ARB, and then tried to re-mount the compressor. Bugger. It fouled the engine :-(

But not a particularly important part of the engine, so with a good deal of flap disc action later, I had clearance.

20191117_230554.thumb.jpg.f81453cb1c60479150506e4facb6b823.jpg

I then cut down an old V belt to the right length, so I can now match that up to the next longest length available (hoping that isn't too long for me to be able to tension it!)

20191117_231313.thumb.jpg.6ba9c4af22846765b3dd727548c6cbd7.jpg

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I've now involved the compressor and mounting plates, and mocked up the spacing of the compressor lugs with a couple of bolts.

20191118_223358.thumb.jpg.178fb533b9961bf3620edc3275592c62.jpg

I could then reinstall the mounts to see where in free space the rear mount was sitting. There are two bosses on the block that I plan to utilise, by welding a plate at right angles to the rear mount. Access is a little tricky, but all I need to do is drill the plate, bolt to the block and tack it to the mount. The proper welding can be done on the bench, assuming it doesn't distort too much on cooling...

Note how much of my block is sitting on top of the sump guard in dust form!

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I made up a plate with holes to match the bosses on the block...

20191119_223631.thumb.jpg.b588273e1c19a72115b68c25df0a38ea.jpg

...so once that was bolted on I tacked it to the rear mount. Then I could unbolt both, weld up properly, and paint. My welding was a bit splattery and I don't know why, but got good penetration so the joins are strong at least.

20191122_172423.thumb.jpg.7dd3e3b7d67335f6a2258d37c9c1316c.jpg

Happily there was no noticeable distortion, so the two mounts were still in the right place to fix the compressor between. A 925mm belt was the right length to drive it, so this was the end result.

20191122_184114.thumb.jpg.165b3af325b606aa36716043e9d92714.jpg

I'm actually really pleased with this; it's turned out to fit nicely, and I'm *just* able to get the full range of adjustment without fouling anything. Time to see it in action!

I've noticed since the rocker cover swap that the idle speed is lower - I think that is down to the fact that quite a bit of air was previously passing through the breather system into the carb, and hence bypassing the throttle flap. I'd adjusted the throttle stop as far as I could so it was fully closed, and it was just running on the breather system. Now I think the flow is less, the idle speed seems too low so will adjust the throttle stop slightly.

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Winter is now well and truly here, so time to take this off the road. But first an opportunity for an arty frost shot this morning!

20191130_095557.thumb.jpg.84bc7c1180a0b65440f6c2ad4d441183.jpg

It normally lives in the garage, but got back late last night so thought I'd leave it outside so I could wash it today. I was also interested to see how well it would start in the cold...

Pretty well as it happened. Although user error on my behalf for pushing the choke in too much!

I then parked it on a slope after a wash, to let the water drain away. Check out that axle articulation!

20191130_142812.thumb.jpg.27869580c271d5d03abcaafdc8bf76e6.jpg

I can now set about removing the dash, and also fitting the AC condenser in front of the radiator.

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On that subject, my bargain condenser was causing me a problem! The pipe connections were quite unusual, known as pad or peanut mounts.

20191209_224541.thumb.jpg.9fb44535538f93130686e82f96bb155c.jpg

Problem was I could find no UK or US suppliers selling crimp-on hose fittings to suit this. Either I'm being inept, or these are generally only available to OEM suppliers?

I thought I'd struck lucky with these: 

https://www.t7design.co.uk/pad-to-o-ring-adapter-pair.html

but they are for #8 and #10 O ring fittings, and I need one for a #6 hose. Eventually though, the power of the internet came through and I found some adapters, again in the US. Arrived within 2 days which was impressive!

20191204_180203.thumb.jpg.2b2bcc5a7da9bb11a7d7da74a7a409ce.jpg

Obviously they weren't designed for a Rover 45 condenser, so I had to modify them slightly by slotting out the holes slightly.

20191213_164606.thumb.jpg.72c7150708ab2ee2e6b96e25893a55c2.jpg

Next problem was that torquing them down meant that the connector was skewed over to one side.

20191209_225422.thumb.jpg.a65f1ec408f9cc53f3e83aa64e772437.jpg

So I had to rummage through my collection of washers to find something of suitable thickness, to use as a spacer to keep everything aligned.

20191213_170615.thumb.jpg.101b5c30563f1f314cfd36d242eeed20.jpg

It might not look much, but that's a big step in my mind as it means the pipework will now all be standard fittings. I'm planning to make all the hoses myself, so all I'll need to buy will be a collection of fittings and I can cut everything to length in situ. Less chance of messing something up, and given what seems to be charged for made to measure hoses, cheaper too even with the price of a crimping kit!

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