wuvvum Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I also find one-make/model clubs very scary, which I dare say is unfair but that’s just me.I can assure you it isn't just you. Timewaster, alf892 and Skizzer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuvvum Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 looking through other threads, the rear seat back hinges can be seen either side on the rear wheelarch check out this pic from RR http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/201402/kelvinators-sd1-vitesse this link goes direct to a thread with loads of pics of the boot lock and mechanism how about undoing the hinge and pivoting the seat back upwards on the locked top pins? might give you enough room to see what is going on with the lockLooking at that pic, (what appears to be) the seat back locking pin is also visible - could it not simply be pushed in with a screwdriver, or am I missing something obvious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 The seat back hinges can be unbolted. Generally it would be much better had the tailgate lock of your R16 broken. phil_lihp and Skizzer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anonymous user Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 On mine I can get my fingers between seat and shelf and move lever to drop seat.If fingers won't fit, what about a wire coat hanger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 looking through other threads, the rear seat back hinges can be seen either side through the rear wheelarchFTFY Skizzer, Junkman, They_all_do_that_sir and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
For Fiats Sake Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I wouldn't worry too much about the rear hatch as the weather's been so cold the body shouldn't start to decompose and really stink until late January. Just don't park it in the sun. My dad used to run around with quick lime a bag of builders sand in the boot, he reckoned it quieted down the back end. Ours used to not catch shut properly and led to me being stopped by plod once. Funny how an innocent spade and bag of builders can look to a suspicious mind. Did Chris Goffey complain about the high boot lip for loading shopping? Dick Longbridge and Skizzer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorfolkNWeigh Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Could you create your own " ski hatch" behind the armrest, using a Stanley knife to carefully cut a flap , make an access hole then just put a piece of hardboard in to hide the hole and glue flap back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 You could put the access-hatch on a hinge in preparation for the next time the bootlid says no.Or do without the boot latch altogether and just bungee the tailgate to the gearstick, maybe. I’ll see next week whether I can get to the seat hinges. All those photos are of series 2s; the seats are similar but not identical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 You could just wait a few weeks till the wheel well rots out & get the lock fixed at the same time? Skizzer and richardthestag 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Feed the door lock salt for a few weeks and wait for nature to take its course? Dick Longbridge, Timewaster, HarmonicCheeseburger and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 looking through other threads, the rear seat back hinges can be seen either side on the rear wheelarch check out this pic from RR http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/201402/kelvinators-sd1-vitesse this link goes direct to a thread with loads of pics of the boot lock and mechanism how about undoing the hinge and pivoting the seat back upwards on the locked top pins? might give you enough room to see what is going on with the lockSome progress this morning. I wrestled the seat base out, which exposes the screws holding in the side wings, which then lift up to allow access to the hinge bolts at the bottom of the seat back: These are T40 torx bolts (how very Car of Tomorrow!) which responded well to a big ratchet driver once I managed to manoeuvre one in there past the seat wing and hinge hardware. Then the whole seat back just pivots upwards on the latches... in my dreams, that is. In reality it lifts about an inch. If I can wrestle out the side wings fully then I should be able to get at the latch bolts at the top. The trick will be doing that without breaking the seat wing retaining clips. I ran out of time this trip but will have a fresh go later/tomorrow. Onwards and upwards. I must say, the more I work on the SD1 the more I think it is a thoroughly well designed car, contrary to what everyone in the pub will tell you. If only they'd built the bodies out of better quality steel, and perhaps paid better attention when nailing them together. Have a moody photo to compensate for lack of real progress. Note: the apparent puddle on the right is NOT from something leaking out of the Rover. Dave_Q, M'coli, RobT and 20 others 23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christine Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 do you need a book ? Skizzer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 The SD1 sold over 300,000 copies. Whoever claims it wasn't a rousing success is a stupid git that doesn't know shit about cars.Even more could have been sold if industrial relations would have been deemed important instead of the class system. BorniteIdentity, HarmonicCheeseburger and Shep Shepherd 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamR380 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I had the same thing happen on my blue one. I've just looked through all my photos but I can't see any... I definitely took some so I'll keep looking. I think I lifted the parcel shelf from the front edge so I could get to the folding lever for the rear seat. then climbed into the boot to unscrew the catch... I think... maybe. Are the S1 parcel shelves in two parts? On mine about a foot of it stays still while the rest levers up with the hatch. It was the first (static) section that I could move. Skizzer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 do you need a book ? Copy of post-17.jpgGot that one, thanks! Very decent of you to offer though. Mine has a brown cover for some reason, possibly a later edition. Sadly it, like the HBOL, doesn't admit the possibility of having to remove the back seat without the benefit of access from the boot. "First release the rear seat backrest catch... [etc]." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamR380 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Found the pics, sadly not a lot to see. I packed out the catch with weld as it wasn't hitting the striker. I'm still not certain how I got in, it's possible it just worked once as I remember it did work occasionally. Skizzer and Coprolalia 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 I had the same thing happen on my blue one. I've just looked through all my photos but I can't see any... I definitely took some so I'll keep looking. I think I lifted the parcel shelf from the front edge so I could get to the folding lever for the rear seat. then climbed into the boot to unscrew the catch... I think... maybe. Are the S1 parcel shelves in two parts? On mine about a foot of it stays still while the rest levers up with the hatch. It was the first (static) section that I could move.The parcel shelf is in two parts, but they are joined by metal hinges at either side which you can only get at with, you guessed it, the tailgate open. The trailing edge of the parcel shelf is trapped beneath the tailgate and the leading edge by the seat back - I'm buggered if I can get even my bony fingers in any of the gaps. I think the seat wings will yield to further cajoling and reveal the seat latches. At least, that's plan A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Found the pics, sadly not a lot to see. I packed out the catch with weld as it wasn't hitting the striker. I'm still not certain how I got in, it's possible it just worked once as I remember it did work occasionally.Mm, that's helpful, thanks. Actually I might order a new catch from Rimmers - chances are I'll need one anyway, and at least I'll be able to work out what's happening. When I get there. As an aside, I bought some replacement glovebox catches from them a while back, as one of the originals (?) had snapped. They aren't even close to lining up with the strikers though. QUALITY. richardthestag and SamR380 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike60 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Is that red Hermatite or blood on the Rover manual? Skizzer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 The new Rover 3500 - as hated by Sunny Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamR380 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 The bench and seat wings are out of mine atm as I'm doing some welding, the seat wing only has the one screw at the bottom, then you have to wiggle and push it upwards. I'll try to get some photos of the catch etc. to help you come up with a plan. Skizzer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christine Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Not blood, it's vw Paprika red cellulose . I put me spray gun cup on it, toadd a bit of thinner and a dribble went on the book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 ^ In my experience SD1s draw a fair amount of sweat and tears but little actual blood. (I've jinxed it now though.) Meanwhile I see central locking tailgate locks are now unavailable at Rimmers. Everything else for the SD1 appears to be in a clearance sale, which is a touch concerning if it means what parts support remains for these is about to end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy18s Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 ^ In my experience SD1s draw a fair amount of sweat and tears but little actual blood. (I've jinxed it now though.) Meanwhile I see central locking tailgate locks are now unavailable at Rimmers. Everything else for the SD1 appears to be in a clearance sale, which is a touch concerning if it means what parts support remains for these is about to end.Time for a second one then.........for spares,obviously Junkman and Skizzer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TripleRich Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 The SD1 is becoming difficult to get stuff for these days. Trim has always been rare but the the sheet metal is becoming increasingly dodgy as time passes. A mate just bought basically the entire front end from Rimmers for about £300 so I expect most of that is thinning out. Rear quarters have already run out even if the website says they have them. Series 1 tailgates don't exist either. Most 'new' SD1 metalwork is left over from the failed Indian production. Its not E coated and much of it looks quite scabby when it turns up. Wont be long before panels have to be bought from ebay at crazy prices. Going rate for a pair of good Mk1 Granada wings is now £1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike60 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Not blood, it's vw Paprika red cellulose . I put me spray gun cup on it, toadd a bit of thinner and a dribble went on the book Yea, if it had been blood the tears would have washed it off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamR380 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Here are some pics of my S2, which all jokes aside does have a massive hole in the wheel arch so you can see where the bolts for the catch go. I've used the attach feature so I'm not sure what order they'll come out in. The catches at the top of the seat back are fixed with two countersunk machine screws but they're not really accessible until the seat back is down. The screws go through the panel and into a 5mm plate behind, you can kind of see it in the pics but tbh it's not much use to you either. I'd guess your best be is to take out the hinge bolts at the bottom and see what state that leaves you in. Skizzer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 That's massively helpful, thank you - it looks like the seat back should lift out if I get the angle right, now that it's not fixed at the bottom. Hopefully I'll get time to give this a go tomorrow, otherwise it'll be the weekend as I'm back at work on Thursday. richardthestag and SamR380 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tadhg Tiogar Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 ....Most 'new' SD1 metalwork is left over from the failed Indian production. Its not E coated and much of it looks quite scabby when it turns up. Wont be long before panels have to be bought from ebay at crazy prices. ....Once the tooling's been scrapped / destroyed, that's all folks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamR380 Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Have you pushed down hard on the lid while turning the key in the lock ? I seem to remember turn the key also pulls the latch. Could be wrong though it’s beem a wee while since I sold mine This rings a bell actually (mine is cort16's old one). Turning the key left and right while operating the handle. More of a quick, flicking turn of the key... or am I getting confused with the Scimitar door lock?? Either way, have a piece of carpet or a jacket or something to cover the catch with in case you do open it, you don't want it to fall shut and lock again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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