barefoot Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Air leak?Poxy little ancillary tube split, causing all sorts of mayhem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairnet Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 ^^ hoses split somewhere aldi/lidl doing ultrasonic cleaner - might be worth wringing carb through it to get rid of any shite italian tune up might work......... tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey spud Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Did you get a copy of the mot emissions print out ? If the CO is low (less than 1%) and the HC high (500+) then it may have an air leak on a vac pipe somewhere.That said it could be electrical its impossible to say from where i'm sitting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Station Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Could also be something as simple as the rotor arm. I've had this a couple of times, and it got worse. After doing the usual of replacing sensors, it was diagnosed as a shot rotor arm. The symptoms you give (random idle, no power, and then some power) sound about right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Update! Carburettor works perfectly fine and car really does drive like new! ...when cold. After it's warmed up the problem starts again, so clearly it's a "hot running" issue. So, any further ideas built on that information? In the mean time, look at this: P1040948 by willswitchengage, on Flickr P1040949 by willswitchengage, on Flickr It's not massively evident in those photos - but you realy can't get your head around how clean this thing is. "Like new" is tossed about carelessly, but this really is. Also enjoy a photo of the current fleet, but the BX will be on ebay after Christmas: P1040950 by willswitchengage, on Flickr I was up at nine this morning as the ER5 needed new exhaust gaskets. Split up with the lady-friend last night so am in super-duper "get things done" mode right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Station Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Try changing the rotor arm Will, or at least check resistance over the terminals. http://forums.mg-rover.org/showpost.php?p=4361442&postcount=19 Read this, and share my pain of weeks of trouble shooting and buying new bits for it to turn out to be a £5 rotor arm from the AA man. (shame). I bought a new rotor arm when I put the engine in. It was faulty. http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=4355394 Right, I checked the belt today, and redid the tensioner, everything is timed up, but the car is the same. It only does this when the car is fully warmed up, after about ten minutes of driving. After that it is near enough un-drivable. Is this a sensor problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KruJoe Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Split up with the lady-friend last night I think you'll find you've missed the xmas relationship transfer deadline mate. You could be in trouble. The next transfer window opens mid-Jan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Okay, thanks. Rotor arm bought, was only £3 so if it's not that it's not like I've also replaced the Fuel pumpFuel filterSpark plugsHT leadsDistributor capRotorCoolant Temp SensorEarthing cable (bulkhead)Earthing cable (battery)Ignition coilThrottle bodyIdle Control ValveThrottle Position SensorInjectors, rail and loom or anything . Won't be able to put it in for a couple of weeks so this thread may go quiet for a while. New foible, something you may have also noticed with the Subaru: Interior lights not working. Bulbs, checked. Fuse, checked. Still nothing. It's by no means the end of the world but it would obviously be nice to have night time map reading powers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket88 Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 I would also guess rotor arm, if it's cracked, it'll work until heat causes it to expand, widening the crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Well this is going well, eurocarparts .com sent me a dizzy rotor that looks nothing like the one in the car itself. Bravo! Cue ebay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket88 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 If you bought it from Eurocarparts you were lucky it was a rotor arm of any description........... cobblers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Correct part finally arrived and installed! Here is before and after photo: P1050008 by willswitchengage, on Flickr Car now much better, idle is alot less rough and doesn't hesitate as bad when hot. However, it still does! Still massively down on power, its not insured right now so only took it for a sneaky test drive up and down the cul de sac, but it's still not right Worth getting a new cap too? These are the contacts: P1050009 by willswitchengage, on Flickr P1050010 by willswitchengage, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 So then.... the arm has grooved the cap! BinnIt TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobblers Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Yeah, the rotor arm has made a right old mess in there - something is definitely amiss, the tip of the arm deffo shouldn't be anywhere near to rubbing on the top of the cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hauserplenty Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil. 1 out of 5 = .After you improve those odds at least somewhat:Disconnect the vacuum advance, plug it with a golf tee, and set the base timing and idle according to the label on the hood. I don't recommend trying to set timing without a timing light and a tachometer. If it's still not right, plumb-up a vacuum gauge and see what you get--if there's still no improvement, you've all but eliminated spark (except for the coil/dizzy/diaphragms etc.), so check the carb, fuel filter etc. Vacuum leaks are easy to check at this stage too. Or test the EGR valve?--if it's feeding exhaust gases in at the wrong times it could be leaning out the mixture. You may also wish to adjust the idle as the label indicates, then turn on all the lights, the wipers, and run the heater full on. Adjust it again, as it will likely drop a bit too low. This will keep* your engine from stalling on a cold, wet day. A good thing to do on slightliy broken in motors, since the label spec is for a brand-new one.+/- 50 RPM, WCPGW? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Did you get a copy of the mot emissions print out ? If the CO is low (less than 1%) and the HC high (500+) then it may have an air leak on a vac pipe somewhere.That said it could be electrical its impossible to say from where i'm sitting... CO 0.39%HC 174ppmCO2 14.11%O2 1.09% Sort of inconclusive really against what you suggest Irritatingly I also had to look at the service advisory that said "engine hesitates, poor running" that the seller forgot to mention in the advert or response to questions when I implicitly asked him about it. WOOPS! Anyway, replaced dizzy cap today with literally no change whatsoever. Fucks sake. Also looked at the spark plugs and they conform with the "healthy" image in the Haynes manual, bought some new ones anyway. YOLO! Should probably reiterate the problem, the engine only hesitates under load. I.e. put your foot down and there's no power. It also only does this when the engine is hot. And, above about 3000rpm it gets a bit smoother - so you basically have to granny-drive or gun it everywhere, or just drive on the motorway, there's no real middle ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyBastard Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 My Polo seems to have a similar problem of stuttering when under load, today I changed the ignition coil and took it for a spin and it seemed to run fine but I still don't trust the car enough to drive it anywhere far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 A friends 1300cc Carb'd Corolla had the same problem. Never really got to the bottom of that too. Replacing - as you have - the cap, rotor and leads helped somewhat, a good clean of the carb assisted also. Still hesitated, especially when cold. Could it be the carb base gasket? I know that my old passat ran like this as that was cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel bickle Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I reckon that's leads. Fairly classic symptoms, probably worsened by a lot of water in the atmosphere. Borrow some nice ones from a breakers (rather than new Chinese junk) -or swop out with something known good to see if the symptoms change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey spud Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 0.4 % co is too low for a 25 year old carb if you can find the mixture screw wind it out a good turn or two which will richen it up (the idle speed may have to adjusted down a bit afterwards) and then give it a whizz up the road. Just thinking the mixture screw may have a tamper proof cap affair on it but that can be carefully removed with side cutters and a screw driver. Also try tweaking the timing,mark with a dab of paint the distributors position then slacken the fixing bolts and move the dizzy body a few mm in either direction and road test it to see if it helps.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundig Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I'm not a fessional canic but I think your problem is fuel starvation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hauserplenty Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Sounds like a compression test is in order...after you've tried all the above of course! Could also be a knackered dizzy. Try doing the tighten-up on those carb bolts too; could be just a vacuum leak. You may have several problems at once. Eliminate the simple problems first etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 50p says try the coil. Especially if the problem appears after the car has warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 CapRotorPlugs Will probs try the coil next, then carb, but these are grey areas for me so I'm waiting for an ebay Haynes manual to arrive first. Also bored of faffing around so I'm going to wait until I can do a proper test drive again, too. Here are the old plugs in the order they came out: P1050021 by willswitchengage, on Flickr I've seen the ones in the middle get a different mixture before, but not one on the end Mr Livered 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapcarcollector Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Main running jet is gummed up with stale fuel deposits. Runs fine on (Auto)choke, shit when warmed. Low mileage, sat round for eons.... Telling ya, carb clean is in order. Don't mess with the mixture screws either. Sent from my Nokia 3310 using the force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willswitchengage Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 carb clean is in order So how does I do that then? Shove some Halfords product down it then think of England, or some expensive rebuild? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapcarcollector Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 It won't need a rebuild. Just a clean. You could try one of those halfrauds magic potions first off, if it were me doing the job I'd take the carb top off, use some carb cleaner generously, take the main jet out and blow it through with air (don't poke stuff through it)Bung jets back it whack the top on and bollox is yet uncle. But that's just me. Sent from my Nokia 3310 using the force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Station Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I used Redex on my Justy - it ran even worse after that.Have you checked vacuum hoses? I'd just sack it off and buy a new carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hauserplenty Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 A carb clean won't hurt, and I agree you should not touch the mixture screw.BUT--The plugs seem to show that only one cylinder is getting the correct mixture...Put a vacuum gauge on it, fire it up, note the readings, then pull all four plugs, prop open the throttle, and do a compression test. That way you'll know what you'll have to spend your money on...a new fuel filter is a must if you clean the carb.Might also check the timing belt/chain. It might have jumped or stretched. The compression test can also tell you if it needs a top end rebuild: If you have low compression on only one cylinder, lob some oil in there and see if it increases. If so, it's the rings. If not, adjust the valves...repeat steps 1 and 2. The vacuum gauge readings can help you pinpoint top end/ timing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkyarddog Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 A popular Mod on these Corollas was to fit the maunual choke carb and manifold from the Starlet.Used to sell a lot of those conversions when the cars were common on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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