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From the land of the rising sun


MikeKnight

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Yep, they'll fit. Not sure if they will fill the arches though.

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The wheels on the pink and white effort are 7x15, et20, originally off an E30 BMW, tyres were 185 55 15 as i had them kicking around... even with the 3 coils chopped out each spring that didnt rub! It also still rode really well too! So long as you keep the tyre rolling radius the same you can mess with tyre sizes to your hearts content...

 

This will help - put the size that's fitted in the top box, then play with the lower box til you find something that suits :)

 

http://www.partsemporium.co.uk/tyresizecalculator.htm

 

Going off the top of my head, it's running on 185 70 13's at present if i remember my mates correctly? So running 15" wheels with the 185 55's, your speedo would read 0.68% fast.... :)

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Oh I'd certainly like bigger, but then wouldn't that throw the speedo out? The speedo is currently very accurate.

 

And I'm not sure how "big" you can go on this before the tyres would start rubbing.

 

Well, those (awful) alloys that were on mine were 15's with massive balloon tyres, and the steel wheel and trim combo I replaced them with were 14's from a 16V 4WS. I never had any bother with rubbing, and the speedo never struck me as being inaccurate.

 

I'dve thought it was perfectly possible to fit 17's with the correct offset.

 

Edited as the 4WS steels were actually 14's now I've looked...

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Well done sir, Edna the Accord sends her beige-est regards to her little sister

 

7964401582_0221f4afe7_n.jpg

 

I'm now 3 months into her ownership and apart from fuel, haven't needed to do or spend anything on her. Until today that is, when I splashed out on a new tax disc holder and some new dip beam bulbs as the originals are pants. The only real downside is that it's not 100% watertight, I now keep a sponge in the boot to mop up the lake that accumulates after heavy rain, I think it must be the seal around the rear screen. It gets a bit damp in the main cabin and takes an age to demist, but this means that the engine's nicely warmed up by the time I can see out!

 

Now we need an Aerodeck for the late 80's/early 90's Honda corner at Shitefest 2013

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I didn't have time to clean it yet and I REALLY need to do that tomorrow as the old people/farts smell slowly seems to be getting worse the longer I leave it. :|

 

Oh, question, should this have four speakers or just the two I can find on the rear parcel shelf? I was told it had four but there are none in the doors, yet the sound from the speaker system seems to be encompassing me like it's coming from four corners.

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You beat me to it, I thought they'd be in the door as they are in the Accord, except Edna's are hidden behind a more meshy material, not carpet. Mine don't work either, but have 2 large Pioneer ones on the rear parcel shelf. The ones in the doors look like they've got wet at some point. Today I now have dipped lights that actually illuminate the road and reversing lights - it was just the bulbs.

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Sorry for the necro, but I'm having a problem you guys might be able to assist with.

 

Bear in mind my car is the 2.0 TWINCARB EX AUTO version.

 

I find the idle to be erratic with the engine.. erm.. the best way I can think of to describe it is to call it "hiccuping" every few moments as if it forgets to run, RPM drops, then wakes up and RPM climbs back to normal idle. This will sometimes cause it to cut out and lose power if I brake to come to a complete stop at a junction or set of lights, which as you can imagine is rather embarrassing. Once the engine warms up the idle RPM climbs to around 1500 (cold idle is 1000) and stays there, sometimes (rarely) bouncing between 1000 and 1500.

 

Someone on a Honda Prelude forum told me it was caused by a problem with the Fast Idle Valve and the guy took a picture of where this is located on his car. It's a very quick and easy fix, you just screw it back down to dead bottom with the engine cold as it slowly works its way loose over time. Unfortunately his car is an MPI version and not the TWINCARB, though he's adamant there is a similar valve on the TWINCARB intake manifold but like fuck can I find it or even identify it.

 

Halp. :(

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Classic = -1989

 

Really? :shock:

 

Look up the definition of "Classic" in the dictionary....Are you saying that every pre-1989 is a classic? Guess when it comes to "Classic Cars" it's very much down to the individual, but I certainly disagree here! :?

 

Back to the Honda though....Anything from Japan, with flip-lights, is just fine by me....Very nice. 8)

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Wouldn't expect a carburettor car to have a fast idle valve - that's usually part of the fuel injection system. Could be wrong, as I know sod all about how these twin-carb Honda jobbies are set-up. My 1990 Civic 1.4GL had twin carbs and a manual choke but it all worked swimmingly. Is yours auto-choke? That'd be my first point of call if it has one.

 

I do like these. So low and so rare now. I prefer the earlier ones, but they've all rotted away I think.

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So low and so rare now

 

I found out just how low they are after going over a speed bump too fast yesterday.

 

*front end slaps the ground* *BONK!* "Awwwww shit!"

 

From the sound of it I've cracked the joint between the manifold and the downpipe, which I hope is the only problem as that's piss-easy to fix.

 

Will have to remember to go over speed bumps at 2 MPH from now on. That super soft suspension sure has a lot of travel on it. :shock:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Small update, I've begun fixing the problem with the choke.

 

The previous owner was an absolute muppet! I discovered the alternator bolt was almost all the way out, the only thing stopping it coming out completely was the fact it was jammed against the power steering pulley.

 

All of the fluids are brown. All of them. Don't look like they've been changed in 20 years. Frayed belts. Shitty leads (which are the likely cause of the misfire).

 

I swear I get cars sometimes and feel an urge to track the previous owners down just to punch them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Another small update, I fixed the problem with misfiring. The previous owner may have changed the dizzy cap and leads but he didn't change the rotor arm.. which was positively black. Changed for new. Misfire = gone.

 

Though now I'm having a problem with the electrics, something is rapidly draining the battery overnight and it's not the usual suspects of lights (interior or exterior) or stereo as both turn off completely.

 

FUN FACTS!

 


  • [*:3pg07e2q]The entire battery charge is being pushed through the tiny 10A "CLOCK" signed fuse in the main fuse box, discovered via multimeter.
    [*:3pg07e2q]Removing the "CLOCK" fuse does not disable the clock inside the car, but does stop this massive drain. Nothing inside the car or engine bay is disabled. It does nothing.
    [*:3pg07e2q]Removing the "STEREO" fuse does not disable the stereo nor the powered aerial nor the speakers. It does nothing.

 

Must win Autoshite Dodgy Electrics of the Year award.

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