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I'm an AX wielding maniac - I see you baby, shaking that ass


Craig the Princess

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12 hours ago, Craig the Princess said:

Hi man, do you have a desire to beat your time? ???

It does seem a waste to scrap it for a clutch, but I fear that is beyond my ability.

I can't stop thinking about this, seriously if it comes to it and nobody want's it other than car take back i'll give you the same dollar and you can do what you want with tyres etc.  I won't keep it but will do my best to fix and put it back up for sale non-profit.

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  • 1 month later...

So after passing the MOT the clutch got so bad (biting point below the floor) that the Multipla was unusable.

After putting a fit sale thread up @shedenvy sent me a guide on changing the clutch. As a Peugeot 206 HDi is doing daily duties (65+mpg FTW) there is no rush so the of couple of hours are spent on it.

Started by removing the engine cover then battery tray, two hidden bolts tricky but not too bad. Then the slave cylinder came off. 

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The started some of the engine to gearbox bolts. Then removed the rear support, two very tight 13 mm bolts. The second of which needed a rounded bolt removal socket and a fucking big bar. Had to wait for a new set at the Irwin one wouldn't fit without the other half of the set you have to buy separately. eBay provided the red box, as well as the blue box of Allen key end sockets for removing the nearside driveshaft which is where I stopped.

 

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Tune in next time for me dropping the gearbox on myself, falling to put it back together and scrapping it.

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Got another couple of bits done in a spare hour and a half today. Took the rear engine support off.

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Then managed to get the upper stud removed, despite the 19mm nut being rounded to buggery, I'll need one of those.

Got most of the nearside suspension split, drop link and track rod end are apart so just got the last bolt to do on this side.

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Got the suspension split on the near side. Then did the offside which was easier as the bolts were less stuck. Had to split the offside driveshaft too as I couldn't get it to clear the gearbox, it didn't look as easy to put back together as the other side. One to worry about later.

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The bastard gearbox is out!

Had to remove the front gearbox mount first, that was the last bit before levering off the gearbox from the engine. Then it is very, very tight clearance having decided not to move the front subframe. Various angles, use of pry-bars, moving the nearside driveshaft further away to get a bit more room. Swearing a bit. Trapping little finger between fast moving pry-bar and brake disc. Swearing a lot.

Then the jack died, pissing hydraulic fluid out. So had to rely on it not falling, put an axle stand under the engine to free that jack to then back the gearbox again.

Eventually after over two hours it moved forward enough to rotate and come out the front. I have absolutely no fucking idea how to get it back in. When the lockdown is over borrowing @BeEP's big trolley jack is probably a start but that is a problem for another day. Next job is the clutch change.

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Had a spare ten minutes today. I've been waiting for some male Torx drive sockets to arrive in the post as I only had a female set. 

Once they arrived the six bolts were removed and the clutch came off. Still waiting for the clutch alignment tool to arrive before I can put it back together. The DM Flywheel looks undamaged doesn't appear to be delaminating. At over £250 for a new one I'll take a gamble.

The fingers on the clutch cover (where the colour changes in the picture) are very worn, the Fiat forum suggests that may be the cause of the very low biting point if the grumbling release bearing isn't at fault.

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What's the release bearing like? My worn one was only slightly gritty but made it impossible to change gear.

Also clutch alignment tools are for the prosperous. 1/2 inch extension with a bit of electrical tape wrapped around to take up the slack.

Check how much the flywheel can rotate - should be 1 oclock either direction max and with a little spring force.

 

Great progress though. Ive now got Multipla search alerts on all the selling sites!

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The release bearing sounds the same, a bit gritty and noisy but less than I had thought it would be.

It would be a waste of the £7.49 if I didn't use it now ?

It does have a little movement then springs back, haven't measured it but it did seem like more than a degree, more like 5 probably.

They do seem to be getting harder to find, thanks again for the encouragement to get it fixed.

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Gearbox in!!!

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Fair bit of shoving, maneuvering to clear part of the subframe, use of a jack on the gearbox and lifting the engine got it lined up.

Still need to put the driveshafts back together, fill the gearbox oil, put the hubs back together, refit the plugs and battery tray.

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Hubs all put been together, clutch seems to engage and disengage when pushing it but biting point low. 

EGR hose (a really dirty, oily fucker) put back on, battery tray back in and then airbox.

Need to jack it up again to refit the exhaust section below the gearbox, then battery in and see tomorrow.

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Put the exhaust back on this morning. Made the mistake of trying to do the battery clamp up after putting the air box back in so lost the bolt.

Started it up, and it was Bollocks. The clutch wouldn't disengage drive and you couldn't change gear with the engine running.

Spoke to @BeEP who suggested bleeding the clutch. Did that and it works!

Still feels a bit too light and quite low to the floor but it drives, stops and goes through all the gears!!!!

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2 hours ago, shedenvy said:

Awesome! Back in the game!

So question is, did the bleed fix it or the clutch change??

I hope it was the clutch change ?

Shunting onto the drive earlier the clutch was below the biting point again. A minute later it felt much better and works fine. As it has done they next four times.

I'm sure it's fine

 

 

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Anyway, flushed with success I had a look at the MGF that has been sitting in disgrace with a split coolant hose for a while (3 years).

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Two hoses changed, which were a little tricky but not terrible. Shouldn't have put it off for so long.

Going to need to change the metal front to back coolant pipes soon as they are quite rusty. As is the rear subframe which needs a good wire brush, jenolite and paint session.

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7 hours ago, shedenvy said:

Awesome! Back in the game!

So question is, did the bleed fix it or the clutch change??

The hydraulics had the full range of movement prior to the clutch being removed (I also bled it at the time even though there was no further the release arm could go and no sign of fluid loss).  I suspect that the slave cylinder had been tucked out of the way during the change at a height similar to or higher than the master cylinder,

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