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1980 Austin Princess


vulgalour

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My dear old Dad had a purple MKIII Cortina on an N reg back in the 70's - I quite liked the colour as well to be honest.

 

The Princess will need to be renamed the Aubergine Wedge :roll:

 

Once you get the finish of the paint sorted I'm sure it'll look just fine, unless you paint the wheels and door handles in pink!!!

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I quite like the purple;very 1970's and will suit it well :) Spraying is quicker,but cars many years ago were hand painted,then flatted and polished to look like glass,so you are using a more traditional method :)

 

My Grandfather used to do that back in the day (he was a coach-painter to trade) even the paint had to be mixed up from some sort of "blocks" of paint as well supposedly.

 

His pin-striping skills were amazing - he was really pissed off when I asked if the red pin stripes on his '52 Morris Minor were "stickers" :mrgreen:

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Black tulip. :D

 

But this will not end well. You cannot paint a whole car the size of a Princess with cans. It will look fucking terrible and you'll have ruined a nice old car. What a bloody shame. :(

 

Basically - FFS, do it properly. Flat it all down,do the shuts, degrease, mask up and paint it properly with a hired gun/compressor in single pack acrylic. Put 4-5 double coats on, leave it a week to fully harden, flat it with 2000 grit, again with 3000 and mop it.

You WILL ruin the car with rattle cans/yardbrush.

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To be fair Volksywangle's doing it the right way by just painting the already knackered quarter to see what it looks like. He'd need to paint it anyway.

I'm waiting to doth my cap in your direction if you can get is smooth and shiney.

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^ Why will the car be ruined if its painted with a brush?! If it is flatted back properly and polished, there is no way it will look any different to gun spray job.

 

 

I guess you've not seen many good paint jobs then. How would you flat and polish brush paint (synthetic enamel) and what products would you use?

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Well the thread on his polo shows the paint put on thickly, flatted back, and polished. I never once said I know how to do it did I? Also how do you know the paint he is using is synthetic enamel?

The whole comment about the spray gun was pretty pointless though, anyone can use a spraygun, but not everyone can get a good finish. If he wants to brush it on, so what! It just means he has lots of work with wet and dry.

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I sprayed a car a few years ago in celly and it was abysmal, although that was probably due to the crap compressor I had borrowed. It took hours of flatting and rubbing to get it looking half decent. A bloke at the paint suppliers tried to flog me some enamel coach paint and told me that I'd probably get a better result. But it's like everything that's worth doing well - you need years of practice to get it perfect.

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I have to comment that I've also seen many abysmal "professional" paint jobs that cost thousands of pounds...shocking really!

 

Last car I had painted was in 1994 and that was my AE86 - cost me a whole 250 quid from a moonlighting chap at the local Ford dealers - only one minor flaw in the whole job where there was a slight run near the fuel filler.

 

These days I pretty much avoid anything that needs bodywork as the costs and effort are far greater than mechanical problems...then again, if I could weld and paint, that might change :twisted:

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Been holding off doing any more on the car today, I'm in no fit state thanks to my knee injury and I need to rest it, scrabbling around on cold concrete isn't going to help that. However, I've sourced some new brushes which are a better quality than the one I was using and a supplier for appropriate thinners so some progress has been made. I'm also going to be tidying up the light cluster and wheel arch trim so that they're ready to go back on the car when things are finished off. Has to look worse before it can look better.

 

The next stage on this panel is to flat it back again with finer paper to see where more paint needs to be applied. I'm expecting the crashed corner to need more paint yet as on the previous flatting back it did reveal some high spots and thinned the paint more than I would have liked.

 

For now, the car is watertight on this corner and as rust free as I can manage so things are improved. Everything that needs to be said about brush vs spray has now been said, I'd like to see that put to bed now. Everyone has made their opinions known, which is no bad thing, it's up to me to demonstrate how good or bad a finish I can achieve on my car with my chosen method. As I've already mentioned, I still need to experiment with paint consistency and application technique before I've got this paint behaving exactly how I'd like, but I'm confident that thinner paint and slightly longer drying times would help achieve a better finish per coat. I'm also confident that I can get a good smooth finish that is comparable to the shine on the beige that with a coat of lacquer will become better than the beige.

 

What it needs now is for me to be able to put more hours in on this and for that I need to not have a damaged knee so I can get back to work and earn some more pocket money.

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May I make a suggestion ?

 

A friend of mine painted his Landrover with a foam roller using synthetic paint,and it floated out into a perfect 'Landrover finish' which looked like it had been sprayed.

 

He used household paint and roller painted his MK1 Fiesta to tidy it up,and it looked pretty good for a couple of years until he moved it along;it looked better than some spray jobs,so maybe a combination of brushing and a small foam roller may offer a good solution to not having brush strokes,and having a smooth finish ready to flat and polish up

 

Brush the door gaps,and roller the large areas

 

Give it your best shot,and hope it comes out as you hope it will :)

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Agreed, rollering is better, but if I'm sticking with the cellulose paint I need to find rollers that won't dissolve in it. My favoured method with the paint I used on the Polo was to apply with a brush and dress with a roller as that gave a spray gun fresh finish that was easy to work with and was the method I was going to use on the Princess, but then the roller decided to melt into the paint I was using, giving me a bit of a headache to resolve.

 

If I can find cellulose friendly rollers, or get the same paint the Polo is painted in mixed to an accurate copy of Aconite that would be the best solution I think. I'm off to Sheffield on the 3rd so I'll see if I can drop in to the shop I bought the Polo paint from and find out if he can mix me the purple up to order, especially since I know better how to work with that paint than with the cellulose.

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Buy lots of foam rollers and change them prior to them dissolving :wink: ! Rollering on high-build primer including the door gaps is an excellent way to get an idea as to what the roller disintegration timespan is, then it can be flatted back easily after a day or two using 320 production paper if it's dry or wet'n'dry if it's pissing down. I rollered on the primer for the Avenger but sprayed the metallic topcoat using an electric HVPL, waited a bit and flatted that usin wet'n'dry. I would recommend the roller for primer especially high-build - none of it fucks off into the breeze/the neighbour's car/their washing etc. when it's blowing a gale.

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This won't help but I'm going to tell you anyhow: I once owned a Maxi that had been handpainted in Tesco 'Bamboo' house paint. It was actually far, far worse than it sounds.

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Today has been another busy day, interrupted by thunder storms.

First thing was to remove the front number plate in order to tidy up the brackets that hold it in place as they're a bit rusty.
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Got me thinking about how tidy the front looks without the plate. The bolts for the brackets match the ones for the bumper which is handy as I still haven't found the misplaced bolt. For now, I don't have a number plate on the front but I'm considering fixing it to the air scoop permanently... I'm undecided.
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Then it was paint time. Much sanding down to 2000 grit was done, it didn't take terribly long with two of us working on it. Then cutting compound and the polishing mop to see what we could achieve. Ideally, this panel wants another coat of paint for a really great finish, but it'll do for now.
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Of course, we couldn't just leave it at that, so the bottom half got done as well.
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I reckon that's not too bad, all things considered. Final job of the day was to swap the good lenses into the replacement light cluster after cleaning up the chrome on the casing and refit it along with the bumper to tidy up the back end properly. This job and the big storm rolling in put an end to the day's proceedings.
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Nice finish. Elbow grease pays off. Still not taken by Aconite, but you do realize it'll never look factory. There's no orange peel on the vertical surfaces ;)

 

Part of me now sees the front with a US size number plate being a better fit. I think this place is getting to me.

 

-Phil

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That looks very nice indeed,if you can get the whole car to look as good,you will have a lovely looking purple gem. The whole brush,spray or roller method is irrelevent really,as when you flat,then polish it,you are making it flat,and then polishing it to a flat shiney surface,so any brush or roller marks will be flatted out anyhow.Finish it off with a nice gold pinstripe,and it could resemble a Cadburys Princess

 

10/10 for effort,and showing that there is more than one way to cook a egg !

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