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  1. Always wanted to do this That is all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Right, first of all fuck locking wheel nuts. This is her zafira. Failed its test on lower arms so I proceeded to change one. Went to do the other side and the locking but is so tight I have sheared three keys trying to release it. Tried everything. But I’ll get to that. Question is would I be able, even though I accept it’s difficult, to change a lower arm with the wheel connected? Need to pass its test. Two bolts inside should be easy but the ballpoint won’t be as it’s sort of in the wheel cup. Last question.. has anyone had success of removing a locking wheel nut by welding a large nut onto it and removing with a socket? That’s my next step but I have the fear. There the stupid ones with the rotating collar so just braying a socket on won’t help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Picked this up last week. For the princely sum of £200 it needed a caliper and a spring, and some other little bits. Third owner with the first being the army in Germany oddly. It’s a Spritely 1.9td and I think it’s 115 break. I’m quite impressed with it, the build quality isn’t as crap as I thought and on a run yesterday it gave me 49mpg. It has its rattles.. but its tested to October so it can rattle away for now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. WARNING: POTENTIAL RABBIT HOLE... http://vauxpedianet.uk2sitebuilder.com
  5. Am applying security patches that require a server reboot. This ought to take only 10 minutes or so, but in the event that the server doesn't boot cleanly it might take a bit longer. Those on Twitter can follow me @spoo4 to keep up to date in case there are issues. Thanks
  6. So I’m really struggling. I need a work / weekend runabout for the hefty price of under a grand. “But there’s loads to choose from!” I hear you say. There is, but I just feel so uninspired by the dull and boring selection of more modern saloons and estates. I’ve been looking at ones around the 04-06 range and diesel. More points for auto, more points for cruise and a sunroof. I’ve come up with a Peugeot 307 estate. That’s literally the best I can do. There was a v40 again but I think it was too pricy. I like the idea of a Berlingo, 407, 307sw, Swedish things. I just want something I can get, and not have to touch. Just have on the drive and forget. I’d really like an Alfa 147/156 but they’re thinner on the ground close to Scotland. It’s such a funny price bracket as there’s nice cars at high mileage and no real shitters. It’s not even gonna be for long term.. maybe seven months. Can anyone help inspire or has anything like that for sale? It’s all just so.. dull. Pretty please no Vauxhall’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. So I’ve just spent the best part of two hours trying to get a farmer mates quad to run. I got pinged as ‘that car bloke’ so went up with tools. I’m not hot on carbs but it’s essentially a single cylinder 400cc bike engine on an arctic fox atv. Every carb I’ve had on a bike I’ve just replaced it. It has spark, tested by pulling the plug and sitting it on the casing It has fuel .. the plug is wet and smells of fuel when you pull it. Pulled the carb off and the reservoir was full and seems to be feeding a little too much fuel if anything. Good battery, turns over nice and fast It has air, new air filter. Killswitch not engaged. Seems to have some kind of electric needle fed type idle system, but still doesn’t start with WOT No obvious choke Am I missing something stupid here or could we be looking at timing? It ran, it was minus 7, next day it didn’t run. Air cooled with an oil cooler, relatively new quad, nothing visually fucked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Is anyone else into their kits? In new money, that’s scale models. Is anyone selling any? I have an unhealthy collection that I can’t particularly let the wife see. Latest Abrams about ready to be weathered and next oldie but goody.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Greeted by an FTP this morning due to flat battery, suggestions as to a battery supplier. Any advice gratefully received. Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
  10. While I'm off work over Chrimbo and New Year, I need to get stuck into the Granvia to make it a bit more presentable as a camper, before my first trip out mid-January. It has several dents before I acquired it but as it's now on the coast, these are starting to rust. How would folk recommend I treat these? Most fellow Granvia/Hiace owners seem to liberally coating theirs in Kurust and then some sort of paint over the top. Is Kurust actually any good or are there better products? However, as I also need to fill in the dents after I've dealt with the rust, would sanding the lot back to bare metal not have the same effect? The other half is itching to smother it in gallons of cataloy/fibreglass which I'm really not keen on but I'm not sure how else to fill fairly size able dents. Any other options? Finally, as it needs to be filled anyway, does it need to be painted first once the rust is gone, or can I just leave all the painting until things are filled? The most it will likely be getting at this point in terms of paint is lashings of Hammerite, then probably camoflague it with vinyl. It's been a long time since I've done any body work and certainly not on this scale, so any hints and tips appreciated. This stuff is good for removing rust. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/deox-gel Depends how bad it is, might need cutting out if its holed. really does depend on how bad it is. for me I find that to attack the surface with a knot wire brush on my angle grinder first. if it holes then welding is likely required and therefore I would cut out the rust and replace. If it doesnt hole then much success with the Bilthamber deox gel and also http://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-rust-converter/c28125/ I'd see if its holed first off, if it is forget using filler if its anything decent, you'll want new metal letting in. Lets just assume its solid though, I'd get a grinder with the paint removal disc on, whip that over it and remove all the rust. wouldnt use a grinding disc as it'll remove a lot of stock in the process. Coat of Kurust should be fine, follow the instructions to the letter. Then when its back to bare metal i'd pull as much as possible out, if you cant get from behind with a mallet, I'd suggest a slide hammer with a self tapper in the panel. Then a thin skim of filler over the top. Don't apply filler over paint as it won't blend. Filler is supposed to be applied a few mm max thick, not trowelled on like render. All that will happen is it'll all fall off in a clump. Finally I wouldn't attempt it this time of the year as filler absorbs a lot of moisture as does primer. Wait till spring at the earliest. Seconded on the first aid principle. Washing off Deox, taking stuff back to bare and applying filler is all for warmer times. I get good results from a rudimentary clean up and application of Vactan. It goes off enough to protect the surface but you can always over-paint. Bits I have "forgotten" to re-visit always seem to have stayed in good shape when I get round to doing it properly. My welder friend recommends doing - nothing in winter - just bathing in asses milk and eating grapes while fanned by....etc etc. Seriously moisture and climate and salt and if you don't have a hot workshop mean you are better waiting. Some sacrificial zinc paint and waxoyl should hold it to spring? Thanks chaps. Definitely not holed yet. It's overall in pretty good nick for a 20 year old van, just trying to keep it that way. I guess I shall treat the rust, paint over it then maybe try some vinyl over the top to hide the worst of it until spring. The dents are BIG in places but it's double-skinned so can't get at them from inside to pull them out. Heaven knows how long they've been there for, not quite sure how they can be repaired if they can't be filled. Suction cup pullers? That fancy snap on (or similar) glue gun no weld dint pulling system I use this instead of kurust..good stuff! http://www.bonnymans.co.uk/products/product.php?productID=6183 Tried the suction cup pullers but they couldn't get a grip of the metal enough and kept pulling off instead of pulling the dent out. I'll have a Google of the other option, maybe I can hire one. For a laugh, I'm debating taking it round to the local body shop and getting a quote to have them fixed professionally.....Maybe more than the bus is worth! Not sure where I read it, on here or RR where somebody had 6 or 7 pieces of zintec and tested different rust preventers. One bare metal, one waxoyled, one primed and painted, one bilt hammer etc then left them in the elements. Anybody any Idea where I read it or was it one of those drunken dreams that you are convinced happened? Sorry for the ramble and the bit of a hijack. Practical Classics magazine also did similar tests Another vote for Vactan here. It's good stuff. Great for slowing down the rot. Remember though, it is designed to convert rust, so it's no good if you clean the metal up first. We had some great success on a works van in the depot using small suction cups. In completely unrelated news, some of our vans were found to have the Tomtom windscreen mounts missing. 5 litres for a fiver odd. Sounds good value - be a tenner for 100ml for equivalent down Halfords...some great value if you shop about on the web. Is there a thread for great value car stuff? £19:00 for 5 litres. (Select the volume using the drop down menu.) Still cheap though. Ben Doh. Ta yup still great I will try it The P4 receiving a good treatment of rust yesterday. The recipe is a mixture of alloy and steel panels to get the electrolytic thing started, then head out of Sproutland to find some proper weather as we didn't get any snow ourselves. To give the car a sporting chance of getting home before it dissolves completely, I splather under the wheel arches with anything greasy. That semi thick oil/grease stuff they put in farm implement gearboxes is useful. You can pick up half used buckets of it for next to nothing around here but it may be harder to find inside the M25. Next step is to screw lumps of plastic on top with stainless self tappers. A couple of small trailer mudguards just fitted under the rear arches and bits of lorry mudflap found on the side of the road under the front. The car will still rot but at least I'll have had some fun slithering around in it first. Yes, I've got a sidelight out, I'll be delighted if the wire under the wing is fucked...
  11. For a shitty ex post office combo I bought. Most of the tyres are borderline so there’s a veritable selection of alloys for corsa on gumtree etc. Question is, for a van that will never go over 80 and never hold a heavy load, 15” OEM or 17” TSWs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. The wife’s sister passed her test recently and has decided to go see a 2004 Suzuki Ignis, 1.3 petrol. I’ve only seen pics but looks average Japanese fare. Anyone actually drove one? Looks similar to a micra from the same age tbh. I’m tempted to try and talk her out of it but it looks half decent and I can’t really find a lot of faults in them. Tinny doors? Crap engines? Rust? Drives like a turd in custard? Any opinions appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. So the v40 is dying a bit. It’s got rattles where rattles shouldn’t be and the steering is like running a sausage through custard. The rattles can be sorted with a bolt on and bolt off fix, but the steering.. looking for advice.. When turning it’s almost like it only wants to go in a straight line. Like it’s trying to reset to that straight, driving forwards way it loves so much. It’s worse when turning right and doesn’t really matter if it’s warm or cold. It’s like it’s fighting me when I turn, seemingly more so when I apply revs. It’s not as hard as if the pump wasn’t working which is leading me towards the rack but I really can’t be arsed doing that on the drive. There is a new belt on the pump and the fluid doesn’t stink. No leaks anywhere. Any advice? I was thinking one or both top mounts? No odd tyre wear. Drives in a straight line brill Any random ideas or experience appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Long shot but thought I’d try. Loved this car and when installing gumtree I found the Reg. got some good stories about this motor! P812 TAD Just been tested and can’t find the test number to see if it’s local. When I bought it, it was from Retrorides and it came from France. The PIN number was 1918 for it as this was the DOB of the previous owner. In the history there was a business card from him and he was an ex ww2 fighter pilot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Bodged this yesterday. Seeing as co2 extinguishers are two thirds liquid it’s got to be upside down as there’s a hose to the ‘bottom’ to avoid sucking up liquid. Stupid extinguishers are Whitworth 21.8mm connections but I found a nut, made it work to what is actually a really nice argon regulator, flowmeter to a bodged 3/8” nipple to a hose to a converter to the 4mm weld hose. Works great, extinguishers only have 59bar in them so it’s not even close to struggling. It’s not a bodge if it works? Need to weld a stand now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Thought I’d start a collection thread as I’m off out later on tonight to pick up my latest buy. It’s small It’s Chinesey It’s shite It has chrome The best bit is the price = one bottle of gin for the owner and one bottle of cheap wine for the person whose garage it’s stood dumped in. The second best bit is when you realise that the current owners either don’t care what it’s worth or whether it’s half decent / don’t care about money. I’ll take advantage of both thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Keys shut in boot. Rac have taken car to nearest town (Rennes) , fortunately there was a hotel opposite the restaurant car park. We are still 150 miles short of our first destination and have luggage stuck in back of car. It is possible to gain access to the boot by folding the back seat down but that also requires the bloody key. Any helpful suggestions in case the garage fail to open the boot? Do they put the key number in the handbook? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Please check that your board email address is a current one. I am getting 20 plus bouncebacks from emails that dont exist every day. These are mainly notifications. Now this is not a problem for me,but obviously you are missing out on info.
  19. Working on updated skin/theme. Is up now & hopefully should fix glitches that some of you are getting. Still got odds to do on it but mainly sorted Please let me know of any problems
  20. Seen on Facebook. No pics of the monza / manza Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. A proper shite 90s jet ski just came up by me and I’m sorely tempted. Looks like a decent version of the year, a seadoo spi. Seems rotax powered which I remember from my karting days and I’m hoping to go and see it tomorrow. Looks like a two cylinder carb fed job. Anyone played with them? As usual the engines in bits and it’s missing the jet whatever that is. Presume where the prop fires water down? Are there any rules to it’s use or can I just get it running and blast about on it on the local water and lochs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. So I’ve held off here for a month now but I’m stuck and need advice. Some of you might remember I had a Golf Turbo estate for sale in Jan. Well I sold it to Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and he paid for it with the intention of collection. But, I haven’t had a message off him in nearly 4 weeks now and I’ve messaged loads. I’ve phoned him and got voicemail. Now I’m not trying to muddy the lads credibility at all, he’s done his bit but I’m worried about not being able to get in touch. He’s in Belgium and intended to fly over and collect. I’m aware he bought numerous other cars off here and wanted to collect them all in a oner but he’s now not posted in ages. What the hell do I do? I really need the car shifting but he’s paid for it. I can’t store it forever and I’m still paying tax on it so it can be legal for him to collect. Really stuck. Any advice appreciated. I’m erring towards selling it on and refunding him if I can get hold of him but don’t want to be the arsehole. Sorry if this isn’t the way to do things but I’m really at a loss. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Unfortunately Ipb3 which runs this board is end of life & is now no longer supported. I am currently working on upgrade to latest Ipb 4.1. Test forum is at http://fahl.us/test Your user/pass from here should work. You will have to put up with theme for now as i am not doing anything re this till i know that everything is working ok. Images & attachments are still copying over & will take some time so some will be missing. Also board is recaching which is slowing it down a bit,again will take some time. Please test it out,let me know any problems/errors so i can sort them. Feel free to post what you want,but remember that anything you post will be lost when we finally move(not for quite some time yet) Dont forget to test image uploads etc,also mobile skin etc.
  24. Autoshite will be closed from 10.00 this morning so i can move to faster server in preparation to upgrading software to IPB 4.1.8. This can take up to 2 days for propogation to take place. So you dont get bored please feel free to have a play with future new software,but remember, that any new posts you make will be lost. http://fahl.us/test Sorry for any inconvenience cause Regards daveb47
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