phil_lihp

Small update on the abandoned, muck-encrusted International.
Here it is in its current location.  



 

I had a couple of hours spare at the end of a shift a few weeks back so had a tinker with it.  Apparently it's only been out of use about 6 years but no certainty on that.  I headed over with a few very basic tools and a spare battery I had knocking about in my garage and made a very small bit of progress and a lot of discoveries.
The old battery was chucked out, spare one chucked in and connections wedged on - unsurprisingly, the terminal bolts are seized but did make a decent connection.
Long story short - no dice.  I could put jumper cables from the battery to the starter and get it to spin fine but not engage despite much belting with a hammer (as per farm rules).  I assume the bendix is stuck and it'll have to come off for further poking.
Ignition is completely dead.  Turning the key does nothing.  Amazingly, the modern-ish LED floodlights which are hanging off their wires on the back (the panel they were attached to having rusted away) both work fine off the light switch on the dash panel but nothing else does.  Unsurprisingly, the wiring is a disaster.  There are missing (glass) fuses in the tiny panel behind the dashboard panel and the fuse box in general looks a bit manky with much green fuzz.  There are numerous broken/tied up wires, several bad repairs, damaged wires, corroded wires and general nastiness everywhere.  
The oil is dreadful.  It's over full but doesn't smell of diesel or look water-contaminated, however it's thick and lumpy so even if it does ever run, it can't be run for long on that.  It was parked up due to overheating caused by a suspected failed head gasket, was running but current engine condition unknown so between that and the open exhaust I'll not be hugely surprised if rainwater/coolant has ended up in the cylinders and seized the engine.  It likely hasn't seen much proper maintenance in a very long time even when it was in use.
The alternator is stuck but I don't know how badly - I couldn't get the engine cover bolts unseized to get the cover off for further investigation and to try to turn the engine over by hand.  
I have no idea what half the control levers do, and most of them are seized solid.  I've soaked everything I could get to with Plusgas.  There is a comical amount of play in the steering and apparently the brakes never worked, it must have been a bit of a handful to scrape with.
This will be a very slow burner if/when I do ever get time to work on it.  Next step plans are to go back with my wiring repair tools and try to sort the obvious issues, clean out the fuse box, get the engine covers off, try to turn the engine by hand (if that's even possible) and see if I can get the ignition to work.  After that, the starter needs to come off for assessment.

Small update on the abandoned, muck-encrusted International.
Here it is in its current location.  



 

I had a couple of hours spare at the end of a shift a few weeks back so had a tinker with it.  Apparently it's only been out of use about 6 years but no certainty on that.  I headed over with a few very basic tools and a spare battery I had knocking about in my garage and made a very small bit of progress and a lot of discoveries.
The old battery was chucked out, spare one chucked in and connections wedged on - unsurprisingly, the terminal bolts are seized but did make a decent connection.
Long story short - no dice.  I could put jumper cables from the battery to the starter and get it to spin fine but not engage despite much belting with a hammer (as per farm rules).  I assume the bendix is stuck and it'll have to come off for further poking.
Ignition is completely dead.  Turning the key does nothing.  Amazingly, the modern-ish LED floodlights which are hanging off their wires on the back (the panel they were attached to having rusted away) both work fine off the light switch on the dash panel but nothing else does.  Unsurprisingly, the wiring is a disaster.  There are missing (glass) fuses in the tiny panel behind the dashboard panel and the fuse box in general looks a bit manky with much green fuzz.  There are numerous broken/tied up wires, several bad repairs, damaged wires, corroded wires and general nastiness everywhere.  
The oil is dreadful.  It's over full but doesn't smell of diesel or look water-contaminated, however it's thick and lumpy so even if it does ever run, it can't be run for long on that.  It was parked up due to overheating caused by a suspected failed head gasket, was running but current engine condition unknown so between that and the open exhaust I'll not be hugely surprised if rainwater/coolant has ended up in the cylinders and seized the engine.  It likely hasn't seen much proper maintenance in a very long time even when it was in use.
The alternator is stuck but I don't know how badly - I couldn't get the engine cover bolts unseized to get the cover off for further investigation and to try to turn the engine over by hand.  
I have no idea what half the control levers do, and most of them are seized solid.  I've soaked everything I could get to with Plusgas.  There is a comical amount of play in the steering and apparently the brakes never worked, it must have been a bit of a handful to scrape with.
This will be a very slow burner if/when I do ever get time to work on it.  Next step plans are to go back with my wiring repair tools and try to sort the obvious issues, clean out the fuse box, get the engine covers off, try to turn the engine by hand (if that's even possible) and see if I can get the ignition to work.  After that, the starter needs to come off for assessment.

Small update on the abandoned, muck-encrusted International.
Here it is in its current location.  



 

I had a couple of hours spare at the end of a shift a few weeks back so had a tinker with it.  Apparently it's only been out of use about 6 years but no certainty on that.  I headed over with a few very basic tools and a spare battery I had knocking about in my garage and made a very small bit of progress and a lot of discoveries.
The old battery was chucked out, spare one chucked in and connections wedged on - unsurprisingly, the terminal bolts are seized but did make a decent connection.
Long story short - no dice.  I could put jumper cables from the battery to the starter and get it to spin fine but not engage despite much belting with a hammer (as per farm rules).  I assume the bendix is stuck and it'll have to come off for further poking.
Ignition is completely dead.  Turning the key does nothing.  Amazingly, the modern-ish LED floodlights which are hanging off their wires on the back (the panel they were attached to having rusted away) both work fine off the light switch on the dash panel but nothing else does.  Unsurprisingly, the wiring is a disaster.  There are missing (glass) fuses in the tiny panel behind the dashboard panel and the fuse box in general looks a bit manky with much green fuzz.  There are numerous broken/tied up wires, several bad repairs, damaged wires, corroded wires and general nastiness everywhere.  
The oil is dreadful.  It's over full but doesn't smell of diesel or look water-contaminated, however it's thick and lumpy so even if it does ever run, it can't be run for long on that.  It was parked up due to overheating caused by a suspected failed head gasket, was running but current engine condition unknown so between that and the open exhaust I'll not be hugely surprised if rainwater/coolant has ended up in the cylinders and seized the engine.  It likely hasn't seen much proper maintenance in a very long time even when it was in use.
The alternator is stuck but I don't know how badly - I couldn't get the engine cover bolts unseized to get the cover off for further investigation and to try to turn the engine over by hand.  
I have no idea what half the control levers do, and most of them are seized solid.  I've soaked everything I could get to with Plusgas.  There is a comical amount of play in the steering and apparently the brakes never worked, it must have been a bit of a handful to scrape with.
This will be a very slow burner if/when I do ever get time to work on it.  Next step plans are to go back with my wiring repair tools and try to sort the obvious issues, clean out the fuse box, get the engine covers off, try to turn the engine by hand (if that's even possible) and see if I can get the ignition to work.  After that, the starter needs to come off for assessment.

The farm I work on now uses a variety of modern stuff for everything but this extremely well-used International is still on site.  Bought secondhand many years ago, it used to be their yard scraping tractor and was eventually relegated to running a stirrer for the slurry pit.  When it started overheating, it was put out to pasture, probably 10-15 years ago.
A few weeks after I took these photos, it was dragged into a nearby field by our JCB telehandler so they could resurface the track.  It'll probably stay there for the foreseeable future, no idea if it would still run but if I ever had the time I'd love to bring over a can of diesel and a battery and give it a go.  I've been told that even when it was used for scraping, it had no brakes!

The farm I work on now uses a variety of modern stuff for everything but this extremely well-used International is still on site.  Bought secondhand many years ago, it used to be their yard scraping tractor and was eventually relegated to running a stirrer for the slurry pit.  When it started overheating, it was put out to pasture, probably 10-15 years ago.
A few weeks after I took these photos, it was dragged into a nearby field by our JCB telehandler so they could resurface the track.  It'll probably stay there for the foreseeable future, no idea if it would still run but if I ever had the time I'd love to bring over a can of diesel and a battery and give it a go.  I've been told that even when it was used for scraping, it had no brakes!

Well I can't seem to keep away from old Toyota's, this is the latest addition to the fleet via face bay, a fair few giffer marks, however the inside is clean. 
It comes with amazing history including the original invoice where the first owner back in 1996 parted with over £18k, of which £1500 was paying for the addition of AC... Which currently doesn't work along with the key fob!
My fave bit is the lonely plastic trim that sits around the radio, no where else🙂

£895, I hope this is on someone from here's driveway by tomorrow.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/225157106758070

I've been on my eye out for one of these for a while. Not in a rush, just waiting for the right one at the right price. I was close to buying @Minimad5/ @Inspector Morose Rover 60. While it was a readily do-able project, I simply couldn't have a third big bodywork project in addition to the two I have already. Would have loved to save it but I'd just snow myself under even more.
This came up on the P4 Drivers Guild Facebook page at a good price and looked in good (patina) condition. So despite saying I'd never buy a car sight unseen after the midget debacle, I did just that!
As a turn of fate, it was Inspector Morose who delivered it just recently today.

 
The previous owner lives in the Windsor area and drove it on the M4 through Central London. Always a good sign a car is a good runner if it can do that.
First impressions of it are very good! No visible filler nor metal patch work.Yes there is patina (rust) but it's a very honest car from what I can tell.
There are a few bits and pieces to do however I intend to keep bodywork jobs to an absolute minimum. Maybe patch that hole by the filler cap. The front wing is not attached along the door length and stops the door opening properly. That I think is fixable with a couple of tack welds to hold it back in place. If I go poking I will find stuff, so that will be kept to an absolute minimum...
Interior leather seems to be in very good condition. Patch missing on the rear that I'm hoping I can get a patch repair sown in. At least to prevent further damage. The leather needs a good clean and feed. Carpets are wafer thin and grubby. Not sure they'll last any form of cleaning.
Tyres are ancient and on the high priority list of things to be sorted. Avon safety speed tyres that are cracked and rock solid.
Other bits and pieces are old car stuff. Headlights seem to be MIA after the journey over here. Coolant hoses are heavily cracked (but holding). Starter seems to stick occasionally - I don't know where the crank handle is. Clutch feels high but I'll leave that till it's a problem. Brakes are soft but it's a servo car, so maybe okay - I'll try with the engine off. The old valve radio doesn't work. Gear linkage feels more vague than I expect and perhaps has bushes that need some love.
Anyway here are a few photos of it now cluttering my driveway.





 
Quick startup video and walk around. I've done a longer one but I need to do some more work work right now.
 
More later!

Finally, the Metro...
I still love this car, gingercators and all! But she's proving to be hard work, I've had her just about one year now and have made many improvements in that time, but she hasn't been running properly, the MOT has expired, she's had to have a tickle with a welding stick and she's been overheating!
It got that bad, I sent her to the naughty corner (MIL driveway) and forgot about her for a couple of weeks months whilst I tried to get my Metro mojo back.
Welding in the rear arches is sorted now, Whilst finishing that job, I cleaned the arches out properly to ensure we'd found and repaired all the rot properly. I was pleasantly surprised by the condition...

I've now touched up any chips or damage and painted the welded areas with the same zinc primer, stone chip, body colour similar blue and then two coats of black dinitrol.
So I'm fairly confident she's solid now, and protected from the elements a little.
Next on my list was the rich running and lumpy idle, unwillingness to run without a bit of choke etc. Fearing all my symptoms could be OMGHGF, I consulted my big book of knowledge...

Took a brave pill and told myself I'm already a couple of grand into this car, she's not completely rotten, must be worth saving and a bit of effort, come on man get a grip!
I thought I'd start by cleaning the carb as I have already replaced all the electrical service items within the last 300 miles. Cleaned everything I could get to without completely dismantling beyond the point of my confidence to re-assemble again. Whilst putting it back together I consulted the haynes manual for cause of rich running on these, the Haynes manual made reference to a vacuum hose and also a breather hose that if blocked can cause rich running.
I checked the breather, fine. Started the car, it was better but not 100% and still wouldn't idle warm without a bit of choke. So disconnected the suggested vacuum pipe and the car settled down, this vacuum pipe goes from the carb to air filter housing and from what I can make out there is a temperature operated switch in the air cleaner housing that should switch vacuum between cold air from the filter and warm air from the manifold, the switch must be past it's best as the car tries to stall if you put your finger over the disconnected vacuum pipe and if you reconnect said vacuum pipe to the air cleaner housing. It's running properly better now, but some further investigation required here I think.
Next up, overheating. I started with a drain and re-fill on the cooling system. I had to fit a new expansion tank cap a couple of months back as it was hissing when the engine was running and whilst cooling down, which I think was letting air into the system. I hadn't been able to bleed the air back out properly so a drain and re-fill seemed a good start point. Flushing through with the hose didn't see anything untoward flush from the system, and the rad was replaced just about 2 years ago, so I was fairly confident to proceed to refill.
One thing I noticed when the car overheated last, just before coming off the road, was that the fan wasn't coming on. It works if you short the wires, so i suspected a faulty switch (or an air lock in the system). I decided the safest thing was to install an override switch in the dashboard. So if the temperature does head for the red I can switch the fan on if it isn't working automatically for any reason.
All these jobs done, I started the car, ran it up to temperature and left it to tick over. It ran well, didn't need much choke and none when warm. Doesn't smell like it is running rich anymore. Fan cut in on its own when temperature reached 3/4, so I'm thinking it was an airlock, but I'll keep my eye on it.
MOT is booked for Tuesday at 11:00, fingers crossed we can get her through and get back to a bit of metroing! I may even be able to get miles on it at last 😲

Well not a lot has been happening the last few weeks, other than work. I’ve just not had time to progress my projects mess about with the cars unfortunately…
but today has been very exciting indeed, the Metro has been treated to some much needed love.
H&H have been around and replaced the hydragas system and it’s made a huge difference to the car, far beyond my expectations.

this was midway through the work.
when they arrived they checked suspensions travel and ride height. The only suspension travel we had up front was the flex in the tyres. The ride height was way down on where it should have been.
all four units have been replaced and the system pumped up to the correct ride height. Quick test drive, check the ride height and pump up to correct height again and the little beast is entirely transformed.
a recent before…

And now, look at that gap between the front wheel and arch 😮

 
can’t recommend these guys enough, great service and they really know there stuff!
These little cars have a surprisingly good ride when the suspension is working properly  doing anything at all!

The boot lock trim was looking tired (up close)

so I fitted the new one…

what a faff, the boot liner had to come out. So did the number plate lights. The rubber between the trim and the boot lid has a life of its own, so you need about 7 hands to do this quickly! Took well over an hour in the end.
so final prep is a quick wash…


and now it’s snowing 🙄
 
a satisfying day of tinkering though!

I decided to treat Molly to a thorough clean to reward her for running properly and having working brake lights again. This did three things…
1.       I found that my mates paintwork had micro blistered, only on the taligate, but still dissapointing. As I said earlier, he’s not well, so I’m not going to trouble him with it. If he comes back to work I’ll get him to flat it back out and do it again. If he doesn’t come back to work, I need to find a new body shop and prepare myself for proper prices ☹
2.       Gave me a chance to fit new better waist line seals on the windows.
Before:

After:


3.       Made me think about the scabby chrome trim in the bumpers. I found this a while ago

And I thought, yellow bumper trims would look way better than tired chrome. So I’ve given it a go and I think it really improves and cheers up the overall look.
I’ve now taken back possession of the Metro for daily duties. The wife had been using it for last week or two to save money on fuel. I really love this car and the positive reaction she gets from people, I really have never had another car like it, even the bright yellow bay window camper didn’t get such positive reactions from people.
I’m really looking forward to getting out to some shows in her this year, she’s not the very finest example going, but she’s certainly saved for now and probably looks better than she really is.
I’ve also got her booked in for a suspension rebuild with H&HS Ltd, that’s happening in May. The suspension is way too hard in this car, Metro’s (whilst never a brilliant ride) were much better than this one is back in the day.

Brush painted lower half, bad rattle can black bumpers and a dissolved headlight trim thats long since left the chat.

My MOT duct tape failing to hold up reveals thats Door bottoms are overated.

As too are door handles. 

 
 
 

Time to get the gpz ready for the road as my mod 2 is coming up. First thing was first was the chain. 

I got a new fancy did chain but it was slightly too long. I took the old chain off with a grinder and removed four links off the new chain with the grinder. 
No matter what I Did I could not get the master link to click in so I left in my freezer for a half hour and with some grips it all popped together again. 

Then adjusted the swing arm assembly, I think it needs a new front sprocket someday. 
I also noticed the Silencers are off a triumph, seems very autoshite.
I then did a oil and filter, realised the lower cowling was hardly held on so it got some new bolts to hold it all together. 
Adjusted the carb so the idle does not work itself loose (as much). And pulled out the right spark plug, it was iridium. I was tempted to put it back in and forget about it but I thought i might as well replace them both. The left sparkplug came out very rusty and it was a diffrent type. 

Trying to put the left one, but I had problems. It just would not thread, i was worried it was somehow crossthreaded. 
It turns out the remains of a previous plug was still somehow stuck in the well (you can see on the photo) one that was fished out it threaded in without a problem. 
Immidietly the bike revved so much better, the revs no longer hung like before. It did not need as much choke to get it running when cold, but the strangest. It warmed up so much quicker then before (even considering the colder conditions it used too never warm up). No clue why but I will take it. 
Topped up the front brake fluid, seems to be ready to go! Probably best do some work on the brakes and replace the ageing tyres but I want to get it on the road first. 

Today I passed my mod 2, very happy as now I'm able to ride anything. Need to get out this weekend! 

Me and a freind had been talking about buying a mk3 golf gti 16v for a while but prices just kept going up. Then saw a seat cordoba 16v for sale on ebay. Bid on it and lost out but of course the winner messed the seller around so we got in touch and went to go look at it. 
Inspected it and we made a offer and took it home.


It has the abf engine we wanted and ought to be fun once sorted.

Thrown some water over it but it really does need some work so will be a slow project for us. 
All the Amber had flaked off the indicator bulbs so replacing those was a easy job. The boot light was unplugged so I plugged it in, strangely then the number plate lights lit up when I opened the boot. It turns out the loom going to the boot had become damaged. Probably why the number plate lights and both front a rear fogs were not working, both fuses had blown. Fog light fuse was over rated too. 
Stripped apart the interior and boot and pulled the loom out, took it too someone who makes automotive looms and he built us up a new one with new ends! Really nice to do the job properly instead of patching or crimping wires half way. Fitted the new loom and all functionality returned. 
The weird little oil dip stick guide had failed so we replaced that for a couple pounds. Weird little thing. 

The key fob also did not work but it had two cr2032 batteries installed. Swapped them out for cr2016 batteries and the remote central locking worked! 
Then we took the seats out as they were stiff and vacuumed out all the runners and cleaned them. 

This also allowed me to do some poking and find five rotten corners of the floor pans, it seems the grommets retained moisture and rotted the floorpans around them. Also vacuumed out so much crap. All went together again fine but I have ordered a new set of door nylon runners to make them slide perfect. 

Central locking knob had snapped off so ordered that as well, and fitted a few new bulbs behind the dash so all the backlighting works as it should. 
Still got a long list of things to do such as the rust, abs issue, terrible clutch feel (we think it's the cable), needs a new grill, passenger side wing, broken passenger side electric window mechanism, cracked front fog light, oil leaks and gear shifter bushings. But we are getting the simple stuff done fast, at least the aircon works. 
Probably best to do a service next anyway. 

This is the bit where I wish I had some metalworking tools.  Fixing the inner rear arch is a pain as it's a nightmare to actually fit your head in the space and weld it up. I decided the best way to start would be to make the most difficult part on the bench.

This fits inside the outer arch panel.

It then means I have a structure that I can weld to, and the parts will just be simple patches rather than trying to make a complex bit fit.
3 more of those.

Those then get plug welded to the outer arch panels and the slits welded shut.

Made a start on one side.

Got fed up of that fairly quickly, so did a bit more on the engine.
Fitted the crankshaft main bearings and dropped the crank in. Put some plastigauge on the crank and torqued up the end caps to check the clearances.

That's basically factory spec.

Timed the camshaft gear to the crank and torqued everything down.

Adjusted the distributor / oil pump drive so that it points the right way at TDC, which is about 30 degrees off horizontal. This should make the distributor easier to time up.

Onto the pistons. 
Started by pulling off the old rings and cleaning up the pistons.  Most of the rings were stuck absolutely solid.

New rings.


That's all for now. I couldn't get the pistons back in to the bores. I think my piston ring compressor is shite.
 

Today was a momentous day !
The aim was to take the Oxford out from the unit, to a new abode.
To do this would require 38 miles of trips through a when of SHITEHOLE towns ( Whitburn/Harthill/Holytown etc) none of which would be fun for it to expire in.
Before setting off, I elected to top up the diff oil and try to fit the new drain plug I had got for the diff (old one was leaking).
This activity was wholly bolting the stable door once horse had fucked off over the horizon ! The diff is biblically loud. But loud and lubricated was better than nowt.
To add to the futility, I had to utilize molegrips to get the fill and drain plugs out - my drain plug keys potentially existing in my imagination/another universe/ @jaypee's garage.
In the end the diff was filled and left to sit to check for leaks while we went for lunch.
after a good feed, we wanged 10l more fuel in it and set off.
The odo started off at 16.3miles, and the miles flew* by.
The car drove well, but it's still not running perfectly - some fettling on the fuelling needed. That said it kept pace with traffic and the brakes were even useful if applied in time.
Single speed wipers are adequate in drizzle, and modern tyres mean some grip, though still little in the way of feel.
A pop in to see Parents_touring meant the opportunity to get a picture of the 2 people carriers together.

The new abode was duly reached, and 38 miles covered. That made 54 miles so 1% of the way to the 5000mile limit on this year's insurance...

An old wreck, happy with his motor

 
All in all a great success. Getting back into the 182 was like piloting a spaceship

Oh I do like, etc etc.

Pez station shot.

No it's not a new purchase, quite the opposite, but today was the first time I'd filled it up at an actual petrol station in about 15 years so thought it worth documenting the occasion.

We used to pump up the tyres, wire rope around the front axle and then tow gently around until they started - that was a generation earlier DB and Ford stuff but there'd always be something to get going around hay/silage time that had been sat for a long time.
Mind you the old boy that owned the place was a tight as the proverbial, every summer  we'd be humping batteries out of tractors and into his shonky old combine to get that started/out of the shed for barley.

Yes, boss's dad who still works around the farm said he sold the cab and later wished he hadn't!  That exhaust has been open for most/all the time it's been stood, which I suspect is not good for it.  The remains of the reg plate suggest a Y reg, so 1983-ish.

The farm I work on now uses a variety of modern stuff for everything but this extremely well-used International is still on site.  Bought secondhand many years ago, it used to be their yard scraping tractor and was eventually relegated to running a stirrer for the slurry pit.  When it started overheating, it was put out to pasture, probably 10-15 years ago.
A few weeks after I took these photos, it was dragged into a nearby field by our JCB telehandler so they could resurface the track.  It'll probably stay there for the foreseeable future, no idea if it would still run but if I ever had the time I'd love to bring over a can of diesel and a battery and give it a go.  I've been told that even when it was used for scraping, it had no brakes!

I'd use a really large battery and/or jump leads. My experience is that even really ancient tractors will usually start with enough cranking. I'd probably bung a bean tin over the exhaust in the meantime to stop water ingress. The brakes are probably just horribly out of adjustment, but they were rarely that good even in tip top condition. The bodywork and wheels have seen their fair share of cow shit, absolutely horrendous stuff. 
That's not really that old, early to mid 80s, it originally had a quiet cab. It's quite a powerful tractor, c. 80hp, so a cut above the usual yard scraper fare (Massey 35/135 etc).
 

The farm I work on now uses a variety of modern stuff for everything but this extremely well-used International is still on site.  Bought secondhand many years ago, it used to be their yard scraping tractor and was eventually relegated to running a stirrer for the slurry pit.  When it started overheating, it was put out to pasture, probably 10-15 years ago.
A few weeks after I took these photos, it was dragged into a nearby field by our JCB telehandler so they could resurface the track.  It'll probably stay there for the foreseeable future, no idea if it would still run but if I ever had the time I'd love to bring over a can of diesel and a battery and give it a go.  I've been told that even when it was used for scraping, it had no brakes!