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Posts posted by philibusmo

  1. When we met, my now husband had a 1996 Camry V6 saloon which smelled of stale bread. I had arrived in a 2004 Volvo S40 2.4 that I'd bought cheap from some quite dodgy Indian chaps who lived in the first story of a building that could only be accessed by climbing on a bin and then on to a small balcony because the wooden stairs up to it had collapsed. It was covered in sunscreen handprints burned into the paint and was constantly broken in a new and really annoying way any time that I thought it was ready to sell.

    About 5 dates in he complained that the Camry was running hot. The cooling system was almost empty so I filled it with water. Two days later one of the head gaskets finally went pop properly and that has been blamed for ever more on me refilling the cooling system.

    After sitting on the road for a few weeks it was scrapped and replaced with a Honda Civic Ferio 1.3 auto which had no working radio, no oil and a howling rear wheel bearing which lasted until I took it on, replaced it with a Mk4 Golf, fixed it up and sold it off. I had 10 more cars in the year and a bit he had that Civic.

  2. 6 hours ago, Marm Toastsmith said:

    Yep, that

    The amp and rear speaker outputs are on the far end of the plug, the section labeled as Line-Out.

    As an aside, the centre console in your car is worth a little bit as it allows the fitment of a double DIN radio, whereas most B5 A4s didn't come with the symphony radio and and just came with a single DIN Delta or Concert radio.

  3. I actually like the Xsara Picasso.

    I Bought one for £100, pulled the back seats out and moved house with it. It took sofas, double beds, a chest freezer and everything else with ease. 

    It handled better than you'd think, was softly sprung which is actually pretty ideal given the state of the roads and it didn't complain at me for driving everywhere with my foot flat down on the accelerator.

    The best thing though is the little fold out shopping trolley. I still have that and use it as a laundry basket.



  4. 33 minutes ago, loserone said:

    Whats the best / cheapest/ simplest solution to this? I guess I want an iso harness with some bullet connectors for the speakers and then figure out which of these two* wires are ground, live, ign and auto aerial?

    @philibusmo is this making you sweat, or a normal day at the office?

    You're pretty much right there. The easiest and cheapest way to get this sorted is to add a couple of ISO connectors, either with bullet/crimp connectors or soldering it into the original wiring. Makes it nice and easy to remove the radio if you sell the car and fit whatever crap is for sale in the middle aisle of Lidl that week.

    As for tracing the wiring, without a speaker tester then its quite difficult to work out which set of wiring will go to which speaker to connect to the correct outputs of the radio. If its easy to get the speakers out then you can disconnect the wires from the speakers and test the continuity to them down the different speaker wires. If you're luck then someone will have used the standard wiring colours, complete colour is positive and black stripe is negative:

    White = left front
    Grey = right front
    Green = left rear
    Purple = right rear

    As for the power side, finding the permanent 12v and switched 12v should be easy with a multimeter. The earth equally should have continuity to any body earth and not output 12v.  You may also have an illumination wire which will only output 12v with the lights on and that should leave the electric aerial output. If you have doubts on this one then just try touching the permanent 12v to it and listed for the aerial motor going.

    A word of warning on the electric aerial, the 12v output on the radio will work whenever the radio is on (even if not using FM)  as it is also used to turn on an amplifier if fitted, which will mean the aerial will be up whenever the set is on. Some Chinese sets (and newer Blaupunkt radios have Chinese internals) don't stop outputting 12v until the ignition is off. 

    If you want to only have the aerial up while the radio is set to FM then you'll need to put another inline switch into this to be able to manually get it to extend or retract.

    Wiring colours for power ISO:

    Black = earth
    Yellow = permanent 12v
    Red = ign 12v
    Orange = Illumination
    Blue = 12v output

    I've got ISO cables with bare ends that I use to make cables, if you want a pair then I can send them out for £7 but they are quite widely available and cheap so you may well find some locally at the same sort of money.

  5. The only brand of dash cam I have found to consistently not interfere with DAB is Thinkware, they're not cheap but they are very good. I basically gave up fitting anything else, especially customer supplied eBay specials as you just knew they wouldn't have a shred of DAB reception afterwards which would some how be your fault.

    Aftermarket reverse cameras are a similar issue with DAB. At least on quite a lot of modern stuff you can get a 12v reverse output using a CANBUS interface which you can use to power the camera only when in reverse and I don't think most people are going backwards enough to have a problem if their DAB drops when reversing.

  6. 29 minutes ago, grogee said:

    Weird. When I connect up the Sony using my little amp for the front speakers, the fronts work fine but the rears are dead. 

    When I connect up using the Sony's internal amp (eg it's driving the front and rear speakers) both sets work fine. 

    @philibusmo do you know if these units do something 'clever' and disable the internal amp if it 'sees' a load connected to the RCAs? It seems unlikely but I can't understand why the rears would be disabled if I'm using the RCA output + amp to drive the fronts.

    The good news is that with some further wiring housekeeping I made a few 'bundles' of wires to instil some sense of order to the chaos. And the unit does mount back into its slot without pinching anything which is nice. 


    I honestly don't know on that. I don't think I've had to connect a 2 channel amp to one of these before now. I've found the internal amplifiers on them to be pretty decent, if a little bass heavy.

    Have a check in the settings of it, there maybe a setting called something like network mode which is causing it.

    There is also put a 2 channel gain adjuster with RCA outputs onto the front speaker wires and send the front speaker outputs to the amp from that, I've got a few here if you want to go down that route as they're useful for fitting active subwoofers to original head units.

  7. I don't know what ever happened to that.

    Hopefully it's still alive or dormant somewhere. That little car looked like crap but it was very very solid by the time I'd finished with it.

  8. Mystery solved, this is definitely Juice Green.

    Between the brochure shot from @stuboyand I've just gone and looked at HMCs original sale thread where he's listed it as juice green.

    I'll get some paint ordered up and hopefully have this smartened up later in the week.

    Other things that have happened, the glovebox has been adjusted so it doesn't open on every small pot hole now, and some brief investigation has gone I to the airbag light. It's doing four flashes and a pause, which apparently is an issue with the seatbelt pretensioners. Fingers crossed it's the connections under the seats. Unfortunately these are down the side and look a bigger to get to so I might need to take the seats out to get at them.

  9. It's had the rot chopped out of its door and a patch welded in. It's not perfect but this area was a big rusty hole with filler piled in, looks like it might have had damage there early in its life which had slowly gone rotten under the filler repair.


    It's got some filler on top again now to try and get the creases a bit better as they were difficult to get close to being right.


    Most other rust spots, except for the ones around the screen have been ripper back to good metal, treated and a thin layer of filler applied.

    Currently it's driving around with big yellow filler primer patches all over it and looks worse than this morning but it should be quite a big improvement when I've got some paint.

  10. here are some close up shots

    The body on this thing is really quite rough in odd spots but seems solid in the important ones. To drive it goes really well, everything feels tight and nice to use.

    I'm doing some tidying to the bodywork but am struggling to find paint for it. The only paint code I can find is 314 on the plate under the bonnet, which brings up nothing online. Any ideas?








  11. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2005997903126888/

    Ford Aerostar,

    No MOT, only runs on LPG and it's out of gas. How the fuck do you get a jerry can of LPG into this? Do you just turn up with one of those little cans used on gas barbecues and rig it up with a selection of bits of coolant hose and put some earplugs in incase the explosion is really loud?

    Still vaguely tempting


  12. Right, here's my more obscure options:


    Chevrolet Kalos (not Daewoo Kalos or Chevrolet Aveo, Pontiac Wave, Holden Barina etc)


    Nissan Wingroad


    Toyota Corona (had 2 of these)


    Hyundai Pony


    Ford Fairlane BA


    Toyota Avalon


    Renault Avantime


    Holden Zafira (not Vauxhall Zafira, Opel Zafira, Subaru Traviq)


    Holden Vectra (not Vauxhall Vectra, Opel Vectra)

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