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mat_the_cat

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  1. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to Zelandeth in Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 26/03 - Jag Fettling...   
    Ow.

    Only being able to do local runs does not help economy!
    Will need to make a point of giving the van a run next time we need to go out, don't think I've even started the poor thing in over a month.
    Not expecting the plugs to be too bad a job (assuming they're not welded into the heads anyway!) as I'll have things stripped down pretty well to do the cam cover seals.  Just doing the plugs as a job in itself, yes looks like Hell!  Having all the injection stuff and inlet manifolds out should make life easier.
  2. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to wuvvum in Pre-production Montego?   
    FTFY.
  3. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to JimH in It is just so Super (Sentinel).   
    There doesn't seem to be much going on in the world so we'd best have an update. Lots of new bits have arrived which is good but lots of things have needed finished off which have taken forever so at times it looks like little hs changed despite many man days disappearing into the thing. One thing we did get was the rear hubs. These are cast in steel and are vast. However, to cast them you first need a pattern and that wasn't what you would call cheap.
    This is a pile of patterns that went into making the hubs. There are a lot of fiddly bits in the wooden box below.

    And here is one of the fiddly bits that goes into making the hub. Ignore the saw - that isn't for pattern making. In fact we have very little for making patterns including talent so that is why someone who is extrememly talented made them.

    And after a significant sum of money has changed hands they give you the patterns and two very big lumps of cast steel.

    This one has already begun the machining process. There are two flanges - one takes the wheel and the second takes the brake drum and sprocket. This has been bored out in the boring machine prior to going in the biggest lathe for finishing. When the conversion to pneumatics was designed by Sentinel the Super hubs used plain bronze bushes. Because we drive them a lot this is a no no so we took the slightly later DG design which uses roller bearings. Much more trouble free. This also lets us use later DG style drums and sprockets which you can't see once the wheels are on so there.

    The bit at the end is where the hub cap bolts on.

    And here is the other one being bored out.

    You should start to get a feel for how big they are. And also get an idea of how fiddly the pattern making process was. Middle flange take the wheel and the flange on the left takes the sprocket.

    What was also cast was a pair of front hub nut caps. These just cover up the 2" whit nut that holds the front hub onto the axle. The bit that stops your foot from slipping off will be milled in.

    These are the start of the brake drums. We had the plate already so that got cut into strips but it was waaaaay beyond (22mm) what our rolls can do (3mm). A few emails were sent and to say the least we were slightly disappointed in the replies. One outfit wanted £1250 plus VAT to roll them with no guarantee that they would be able to work to the requested tolerance. In the end Watson Tower in Coatbridge did the job perfectly for something daft like £85 plus yer dreaded each. Result. So, Watson Tower for all your heavy steel fabrication needs - really, they were lovely people. These have been welded up and we are waiting now for the rear hubs to go on so we can start setting things up. The last job will be to set the drive sprocket on these drums. After that they will be welded up and machined to size.

    Talking of brakes I've been trying to get the rest of them finished off. Here is the brake cylinder somewhere near finished in its frame. This has taken a very long time to get this far.

    Taken from the side you should have a better idea of how it works. The cylinder pushes forward on the balance bar which sits between two guides. There will then be a joint at either end of the balance bar which take the rods that go back to the brake arms. The bit poking out the front  takes a rod forward for the handbrake mechanism. The balance bar took forever to fabricate and machine. What also doesn't help is that there is nothing to copy - steam brake conversions were made up as people went along - so you are trying to design and make it at the same time.

    And from the front you should see how the balance bar is fitted. It swings around a pivot so hopefully pulls the brakes on evenly. Note Bimota style milling marks on the front of the balance bar.

    And at the other end the levers look exactly as they did before. Two weekends have gone into finishing these off. Everything is now almost (there is no detent spring in the reversing lever yet) fitted and feeling just fine. The 4th generation spent a long time learning to use files and die grinders to fettle these and make them look pretty.

    From the front you may notice that things are bolted on place, there is an arm for the hand brake poking through the floor and there are thrust washers keeping everything in the right place.

    And here is an exhaust pipe.

    Someone who isn't me has been practicing their TIG welding...

    Things like this are a nightmare because they take forever to set up and then weld and if anything is wrong it is blindingly obvious. Closer to the engine is the exhaust drain valve to let you dump water that has gathered in the exhaust while you were stopped. Without this you blow it out the chimney and people get cross. It is operated by wire from a lever in the cab.

    From the engine it passes through the cab floor straight into the feed heater (economiser). This has a copper coil in it to heat the feed water before it goes into the boiler and makes things mre efficient. Copper coil not shown. Or made yet.

    And from the feedheater it is sent up the lum through a blast nozzle which induces draft on the fire. Note the not exactly shabby welds. This pipe will be lagged in ladder tape that may or may not look exactly like asbestos.

    And finally here is a dead (ish) Saab.

    You can probably spot the new bellows on the floor which is why it is sitting on the lift. They arrived a couple of weeks ago but there has been no need to go anywhere so its just been left there. At least being confined to barracks means that the house will get finished a bit faster. I dare say there is going to be a fair bit more progress before the current mayhem is over.
  4. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to Mr_Bo11ox in Reg_Bo11ox' Volvo S80 D5 adventure   
    Done a bit more on this today.
    The handbrake adjusters arrived so I lobbed them in:

    Did the drivers side first. The adjuster went in easily and I adjusted it up and lobbed the disc back on. The handbrake was immediately hugely improved.

    Went to put the caliper carrier back on, it bolted up tight now after sorting out the threads but somehow it was scratching on the outer surface of the disc. Not sure why this is, I guess the disc might get squeezed on a bit more when the wheel bolts are done up but somethings not right here. I reckon this caliper carrier is bent or damaged in some way after beling left loose for so long.

    A bit bodgy, but I spaced it out with a couple of M10 washers, just visible in this pic. That stopped the scratching if nowt else. Reassembled this side and went round the passenger side.

    Adjuster went in easy enough, but I had a bit of a war getting the drum on and off. It had a slight 'lip' round the inner edge.

    Linished that off with the flapwheel in the grinder. Again, adjjsted the shoe as tight as I dared and chucked it all back together.
    The handbrake is now much better, it only comes up about 4 clicks and it holds the car on the drive no problem. BUT I think its still not 100%, specially on the passenger side. When I was doing the wheel bolts up the wheel can still move even with the HB on. Theres loads of meat on the shoes, not much slack in the cable so i can only assume either the cable itself or the actuator lever is a bit seized up on one side. I think changing the cable is a right war, centre console out and all sorts so I want to avoid that if I can. Anyway its much better than it was so that will do for now! Maybe it will bed itslef in and get better with a bit of use (yeah right).
    Now I moved onto the other ABS ring. Took the front wheel off:

    Eh? Theres no friggin driveshaft bolt in at all!!! How on earth this has not stripped the spline I dont know. Anyway I have a spare bolt as the new wheel bearing came with one so no probs. Annoyingly the spline was not seized at all so my new hub puller wasnt gonna be getting any action here either!!!

    Got it all to bits again anyway. No massive problems thankfully

    I was chuffed to find a busted reluctor ring. Cracked right through and well rusty.

    Cleaned up the end of the driveshaft with a bit of wet and dry and WD:

    Heated up my ring on the hob. Soz about the mucky state of the hob, I will have some stern words with Ms_Nuts about that later as its just not acceptable for a serious car blog thing like this.

    Went on a treat, absolutely no problems and clamped on tight as it cooled. Lovely job!
    Chucked it all back together, no photos as it was boring and time was getting on! Put the new shaft bolt in and nipped it up as tight as I dared with a 3/8 ratchet (so not all that tight really)

    All back in one piece. I havent cleared all the fault codes, there were quite a few and I will be surprised if there are not more problems to solve but that one defo needed dealing with so its a step in the right direction. Next job timing belt!!!
     
     
     
     
  5. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to Mr_Bo11ox in Reg_Bo11ox' Volvo S80 D5 adventure   
    Hey gang hows things.
    Although my Croma is behaving itself and doing a sterling job of my 500 mile/wk commuting regime, I have always had a (failry mild) roving eye for something else that might just be a bit more comfortable and nicer to drive. When Bramz advertised his Volvo S80 D5 for just £350, and then tempted me further with an offer to deliver it for £50, I couldn't resist. Sure enough, at the end of Feb it arrived chez moi:


    Its a D5 model, 189k on the clock, black leather etc. Looks super tidy but Bramz did warn me it had a few issues:
    Timing belt of unknown age intermittent coolant warning light ABS light on (2 new reluctor rings supplied) Droney OSF wheelbearing When Bramz drppped it off, I ran him up to the train station in Chesterfield and was able to have a little test drive. Really there was nothing much beyond what Bramz had warned me, the only things I noticed were no sound out of the stereo on one side, and the handbrake is mega shit. Clutch pedal is a little high but its not slipping.
    Overall it does drive very well, certainly much nicer to operate than the Croma, better seats and just a better experience generally. I didnt want to put it on the road till I had sorted the issues however.
    I'm finding myself increasingly unenthusiastic about fixing cars on the driveway these days so kept putting it off and off but yesterday i finally got stuck in. I bought a wheelbearing ages ago off eBay, (cost about £35 so hopefully not made of Chinesium but you never know till you've done 6000 miles and its droning again).
    Now I did my homework and read that these Volvos only have a little shitty 13mm bolt in the end of the driveshaft holding it all together, where you normally find a massive 32 or 36mm nut. I also read that to back this up, the shafts are often loctited into the hub spline and can be an absolute mutha to remove, often defeating all attempts to separate them and ending up needing chopped to pieces and new CV joints fitted etc.
    So i decided to roll out the friggin barrel TO THE MAX before wading in and ending up with a car on axle stands on the drive for a month, spent £100 on what I thought would be the 'right' tool for the job - a Sealey 10t hydraulic hub puller. Got this  brand new for £98 delivered which seems a good price, £110-£150 seems to be the going rate.

    Anyway, got stuck in yesterday:

    Got the wheel off and undid the 13mm hub bolt. I was then bemused to find that I could push back the driveshaft in its spline using my little finger!!!! Friggin typical innit.
    Anyway I dismantled it all and got the hub out.

    Got the hub in the vice:

    Thankfully on these you don't need a massive press to press bearings in and out of housings etc. The bearing has an external bolted flange and you just bolt it into the hub with 4 x M12 bolts.

    Got the bolts out here, but the bearing was quite well seized into the aluminium hub. Had to twat it a lot back and forth to get it moving.

    Got it out after a fashion with minimal destruction and cleaned up the bore with wet & dry and WD.

    New and old brgs

    New bearing installed in the hub

    Thats an MOT fail, I should have measured up so I could buy a new boot for this, but I forgot
    Now then, before I put it all back together should I change the ABS reluctor ring? 2 new ones were provided with the car. Heres the old one:

    No missing teeth, no cracks, looks OK to me TBH. I plugged in the tablet and had a look what faults were stored:

    Hmm, we're on the RH side here. If anything this is telling me the ABS sensor is fooked I think, not that this ring is generating a dodgy signal. These might be old fault codes though.  I decided not to change the ring but I did give it a good clean-up, using a file in each of the grooves to make sure there was no significant crusts on or between each tooth.
    Anyway I got it back together and ticked off the droney wheelbearing from the list.
    Another job was the duff handbrake. Decided to have a quick lurg at the back brakes as I had a feeling what the problem is here.

    Now this thing is supposed to have had a brake rebuild and sure enough the pads and discs look quite young. But, the handbrake barely works and I found the rear caliper loose and wobbling about, ABS sensor wires unsecured, and the pads wearing unevenly due to the wobbly caliper!
    The slider bracket on which the caliper is mounted, was well loose. The bolts were tight on their threads but were not holding the caliper still at all:

    Just using a tap and die i cleaned all the threads up. Hopefully that should allow everything to nip up again.
    The reason the handbrake is so shit, is that after 189k the handbrake shoes have a little wear. Not enough to be a serious problem but theres no adjustment on them to compensate. All you can do is tigthen up the HB cable. You can buy adjusters though, so i have ordered a set:

    When those arrive I should be able to adjust up the shoes THEN tighten the cable and hopefully get a decent HB again.
    Next job is to dismantle the LH front suspension and hopefully find a broken ABS ring which i can replace. I also hope the driveshaft has been glued in so my £100 hub puller can get some actual use!!! Will try and have a look at this today. l8rz!!!
     
  6. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to garellikatia in MOT tests to be extended by 6 months, if due from 30 March   
    Yes true but I do have my wife's car I guess. :/ And use it to collect some essential shopping. I feel like  a bit of fun when doing the simple things inife like shopping or going to work would make a big difference at the minute 
  7. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to 406V6 in MOT tests to be extended by 6 months, if due from 30 March   
    Phew. With fortunate timing and a good decision to get it MOT’d well in advance of expiry the 406 V6 passed first time on 10 March. Emissions were a bit tight and might have been game over if it had failed.
    20th anniversary of me collecting it when new coming up in two weeks. Now I must disconnect the battery as it’s not going to get used again for weeks, if not months. Any local journeys will be electron-powered in the i3.
     
  8. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to dollywobbler in North East Wales meet up - The Shitesteddfod: Fingers crossed for Oktober   
    Very much. Any hint at a relaxation and I'm going to be out and about - albeit still following social distancing guidelines.
  9. Haha
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from willswitchengage in Tragic news, Richard's funeral date 1st April   
  10. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from BorniteIdentity in Mercedes W124 200E - Rolling Resto - Engine temperature issues   
    I'd agree with the thermostat diagnosis normally (you can have as much airflow as you like, but a correctly working thermostat will just close off to keep the temperature up), but fitting two replacements makes this seem less likely!
    So I'd be checking for incorrectly plumbed pipes, which may allow coolant to bypass the thermostat. Assuming the 'stat is sealing to the housing correctly, and there's nothing significant bypassing it? 
  11. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from Pete-M in Mercedes W124 200E - Rolling Resto - Engine temperature issues   
    I'd agree with the thermostat diagnosis normally (you can have as much airflow as you like, but a correctly working thermostat will just close off to keep the temperature up), but fitting two replacements makes this seem less likely!
    So I'd be checking for incorrectly plumbed pipes, which may allow coolant to bypass the thermostat. Assuming the 'stat is sealing to the housing correctly, and there's nothing significant bypassing it? 
  12. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to Tim_E in North East Wales meet up - The Shitesteddfod: Fingers crossed for Oktober   
    Let's hope that by October the lockdown has been relaxed a bit, and nearer the time we can pick a date.
    If there is a relaxation over summer maybe some local shitters or those eager and willing could have a day out in the mean time?
    But yes fingers crossed for Mis Hydref/Oktober
  13. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to Zelandeth in Zel's Motoring Adventures...Jag, Citroen, Mercedes & AC Model 70 - 26/03 - Jag Fettling...   
    I've got a parcel on the way (the factors say it's business as usual for web orders so hopefully should be here soon) which contains:
    [] Full coolant hose set.  Thanks to the expansion tank hose having been blocked for goodness only know how many years, the system has been over pressurising and at least two of the hoses are showing signs of distress as a result.  See below.


    These both have cable ties wrapped around them to act as reinforcement until the new hoses arrive.  At least the system pressure is being kept at sensible levels now.
    Given they're all 34 years old, I figure they've done their time and are probably due a change.  The radiator was replaced only a couple of months before I got the car, so having the hoses all replaced as well should hopefully mean I don't need to actively worry about the cooling system for a while.
    I'm sure I will invent several new and exciting curses while trying to fit them.
    [] Set of spark plugs.
    [] A/C Compressor to condenser hose.  Speaking of factory bodges - using jubilee clips to hold together the hot gas lines on the A/C system qualifies I think!  It probably worked fine if the system was to be gassed up every year or two, but with the price of refrigerant these days (the system has been converted to r134a at least) I'd rather get shot of two joints which I know will leak...I've spent many hours helping out a friend who is a HVAC technician, so this makes my teeth itch!

    That's exactly the sort of bodge we used to find on equipment on the farm.  Bonus points if it's on the high pressure side of a hydraulic system.
    [] Cam cover gaskets for both cylinder banks and a set of half moon seals for the cam boxes.
    [] Inlet manifold gasket set.
    Both cam covers leak like a proverbial sieve at the moment...actually changing those is pretty simple...once you get to them! 
    Can't even see the one on this side...

    Nearside one you can see bits of at least!

    Which also does a good job of highlighting how ridiculously long the engine is given that the cam cover runs from the oil filler (mid way between the radiator caps) all the way back to just above the windscreen washer bottle.  She's a substantial old beastie!  Pretty sure I recall seeing someone quoting a figure somewhere around the 450kg mark for the drivetrain in this thing...The unladen weight of the Invacar is 410kg!
    Yeah, getting at the cam covers requires removal of the inlet manifolds (which of course requires removal or disconnection of no small number of things which are attached to or in the way of them).  Well it's a good opportunity to change the gaskets I guess!
    The distributor also needs servicing...which will be massively easier with all the nonsense it's normally buried behind out of the way.  So doing this while I've already got things apart to do the cam cover gaskets makes a lot of sense to me.  I'd rather not take this much stuff apart more often than I need to.  Spark plugs will also be changed at the same time as getting to those requires you to unbolt the A/C compressor and to remove the assembly holding on the throttle linkage and ignition coil.  This is a job that's way more awkward on the HE cars because of the angle the plugs screw into the heads.  The plugs on the pre-HE cars just screwed straight down into the heads which made things way easier.
    Hoping once the plugs are done, distributor has been overhauled and a new cap and rotor arm are on it that we'll finally be able to get an idle that's as silky smooth as it should be. Currently there's a very slight intermittent miss at idle which is really bugging me.
    I wouldn't complain if it improved economy a bit either!
  14. Haha
    mat_the_cat reacted to jonathan_dyane in Australian Cars In The UK   
    Indeed although the way they rusted you would think they were shipped through the sea rather than over it...
  15. Haha
    mat_the_cat reacted to UltraWomble in 40+ tonnes of Boatshite - stoveshite update 16/2/19   
    Why not use an old MPV as your wheelhouse?

    Sent from my BND-L21 using Tapatalk


  16. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to coalnotdole in 40+ tonnes of Boatshite - stoveshite update 16/2/19   
    Have made a bit more progress on the Stove Flue mentioned a few posts back.
    The condensation that forms in the flue mixes with the soot and creates sulphuric acid which has really taken its toll in the eight or so years since I fitted all of this originally.
     
     
     
    Components of the engine room section of the flue removed:
     

     
     
     
    Crusty:
     

     
     
     
    And after clearing the rust off, what started life as 10mm thick steel is now paper thin:
     

     
     
     
    Vertical section out of the funnel on the right, replacement section of stainless on the left:
     

     
     
     
    New flanges drilled and fittings ready to weld up:
     

     
     
     
    Flange Arc welded onto pipe using 316L rods, TIG would have been neater but I don't have one:
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
     
    Forward flange where the flue comes through the bulkhead from the stove in the fore cabin:
     

     
     
     
    Overview showing the new T piece with soot trap fitted at the base of the funnel:
     

     
     
    Working on making the section that goes inside the funnel now which is tricky as both flanges are at differing angles and it needs to be exactly the right length as I don't want to take the top off the funnel to fit it.
     
    Cheers for reading
    Dave
  17. Thanks
    mat_the_cat reacted to Tickman in Tragic news, Richard's funeral date 1st April   
    Just a small update, Richards funeral is tomorrow 1st April and because of the restrictions it immediate family only. 
    I'm not sure what time but I know I will have a quiet moment to remember him.
    Thoughts are with Robin and the rest of the family.
  18. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to richardthestag in Land Rover resto - new project and Sandy p25   
    #3/5 
    out of brown beer so hitting the Hophouse 13 which is very nice indeed
    bought a cheapo Lucarse 35 DLM8 distributor on ebay. Mechanical advance seized but good enough

    of course! Haunted car started up first click

    then diagnosing why OE distributor is stopping engine from starting.. ungrateful spiteful bastard thing

    lockdown shenanigans, fucking huge bonfire is the only way to go

    rear oil seal needs sump and rear main bearing removal. so lets just get on with it.

    3 main bearings, 2.25litres, long throw, and very very very clean inside

    and the bearings and journal faces are like brand new

    I could have a shave in that reflection

    chassis rails are strong and solid but could do with a light tidy up

    the sump had some gung in it....

    Part 4 is on it's way
  19. Like
    mat_the_cat reacted to richardthestag in Land Rover resto - new project and Sandy p25   
    part 4# lockdown special etc etc
    oe flywheel cleaned up real pretty! New pilot bush was installed

    engine dropped back in and clutch aligned

    then secured and bolted up with a new release bearing

    no engine oil in stock so tag added to ensure this beauty is not started up again with a dry sump

    Bulkhead was topcoated with stock Olive Green... way too light for the rest of the car. what is a chap to do. I had the paint on the shelf, it is lockdown, and Ilike the patina on the original panels.......

    not too shiny either

    front shock aborbers were removed and seemed ok

    and appear to be OE, holy shit! These are staying on

    clutch slave however was fucked

    #5 coming very soon
  20. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from FakeConcern in Family snaps with your old cars in the background.   
    One from a camping holiday in 2003 I reckon, and the best car I've ever sold:

  21. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from JeeExEll in Family snaps with your old cars in the background.   
    One from a camping holiday in 2003 I reckon, and the best car I've ever sold:

  22. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from DVee8 in Disco Fever   
    I was going to just bolt the replacement cooler in place, but then I noticed the slam panel support struts were looking a bit crusty. I popped them off to give them a clean up and paint, but I could see they were paper thin.

    Fortunately readily available new, so I ordered a pair.

    But before I could fit them, I needed to do an oil change. Why, you might ask?
    Simple reason being I wanted to protect the inside from corrosion, and immersing them in hot oil seemed an easy and cheap way of doing so!

    I drained the oil and changed the filter, making sure I followed the warning sticker!

    Then once the support struts had marinated for an hour or so, I fitted them with new stainless fasteners, and the replacement cooler.

    I was pleased to see the engine still looks clean inside, a testament to regular oil changes and running on LPG its whole life.

  23. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from UltraWomble in Disco Fever   
    I was going to just bolt the replacement cooler in place, but then I noticed the slam panel support struts were looking a bit crusty. I popped them off to give them a clean up and paint, but I could see they were paper thin.

    Fortunately readily available new, so I ordered a pair.

    But before I could fit them, I needed to do an oil change. Why, you might ask?
    Simple reason being I wanted to protect the inside from corrosion, and immersing them in hot oil seemed an easy and cheap way of doing so!

    I drained the oil and changed the filter, making sure I followed the warning sticker!

    Then once the support struts had marinated for an hour or so, I fitted them with new stainless fasteners, and the replacement cooler.

    I was pleased to see the engine still looks clean inside, a testament to regular oil changes and running on LPG its whole life.

  24. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from Split_Pin in Family snaps with your old cars in the background.   
    One from a camping holiday in 2003 I reckon, and the best car I've ever sold:

  25. Like
    mat_the_cat got a reaction from RayMK in Family snaps with your old cars in the background.   
    One from a camping holiday in 2003 I reckon, and the best car I've ever sold:

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