Nicola H

You've got dash cam footage and his reg number then? Get onto the police, leaving the scene. At least then you'll get his details

You want some old coach skylights for that - preferably with the bright orange tinted glass...
 
That interior shot really does show how vast this thing is.

I think Dangel is a seperate concern. They did all sorts of unlikely conversions - a lot were for French utility companies on vans. Up until 20 years ago imported 4x4's were a rarer sight in France.

*Looks at username*
 
Niiiiiice. Well played.

This reminds of Terrahawks
 

[Goes away and checks]
 
So it is. I always assumed it was the same as the VM Turbo D in the contemporary Range Rover. Well well, every day’s a school day.
 
All the more reason to want an SDTurbo then.

There wasn't much point except that diesel fuel was significantly cheaper than petrol in some markets.

If you wanted to compete in Europe at that time, you needed a diesel in the range. As Skizzer said, most European manufacturers hard at least one diesel engined car in that market. The SD1 was the ideal candidate as it was big enough to shoehorn a proprietary Diesel engine in relatively easily due to its simple mechanical layout and the car itself was fairly well regarded in Europe (even if this didn’t translate into huge sales). The diesel SD1 was a completely logical step to increase export sales. That it sold relatively badly in the home market only shows how out of step with Europe our preferences were.

I also found the R18 diesel I had really almost van like, but it felt like it would just keep going on and on.
 
I've seen an SD1 Diesel in Italy, which was probably a reasonable market for them. I've also seen old Rekords with diesel engines, with their very obvious bonnet humps.

Depends where he's told them he parks it. Besides the normal wording is along the lines of 'must normally be parked on the drive when at the home address'. So any claim will start 'I unusually had to park on the road'.
 
Besides he's as entitled to park on the road as anyone else.

Yeah, don't go to the Paulsgrove Estate in Portsmouth, they have form for that sort of thing. 

Yes, they come in hatch as well.
Meant to be Ireland only but they found their way over through Arnold Clark iirc.
There's a beige saloon one local to me used as a minicab.

Do you know it's illegal to leave a running vehicle unattended "on the highway"?

It is illegal to ride in a trailer unless 1) you are a mechanic doing tests or 2) the trailer is a four wheeler, and not close coupled, ie the old showmans vans etc.
 
The trailer is a good idea, but I am afraid Mrs DW will have to go on the roof rack of the tow car!

I thought a unicorn car was something common with a rare spec. Like someone ordering a brand new range rover Vogue se, but insisting they wanted to spec manual box and cloth seats, that sort of thing

Gearbox will almost certainly be a BE1/5 (Reverse next to first). From memory the van & estate both had the 4.06:1 final drive ratio, the saloon had the 3.8:1 ratio fitted with the typical diesel set of ratios.

3KW rating means it was most likely designed for 13A sockets.
At "supposedly standard" 230V then pulling 3KW will indeed exceed 13A, but only by 40mA so not really worth fussing over.
Most homes hover around 240V anyway at which point you're only on 12.5A.
 
Kettles are usually 3KW.

3kW is slightly over 13A so hot plate fryer will blow the fuse in a 13A plugtop (maybe not immediately, but it will blow). About the same power as an immersion heater.You need a 16A single-phase round socket & round plug on the portable equipment. Ideally on it's own dedicated circuit back to the mains (in 2.5mm cable) protected by a 16A mcb and (definitely) an RCD if you don't have RCD protection already. Take this feed to a 20A master switch somewhere inside the house near where the outside socket is so you can isolate it when not used.
 
Spurring 16A off the existing ring circuit is ok if the circuit is not heavily loaded, BUT you'd still need to downrate to a 16A circuit breaker at the point where you spur off the ring, and fit an RCD if the existing ring isn't RCD protected. (You can get combined kits in a plastic enclosure for use in shower installations). If you don't do this then all that's protecting against overload at the outdoor equipment or wiring is the 32A ring-circuit breaker, as there's no fuse inside a 16A round socket.
 
Outdoor IP44 socket mounted on exterior wall, facing downwards obv. Available Screwfix or local electrical wholesalers, etc. etc. Not expensive.

 

16A outdoor plug, like caravan / campsite plug.
 
 
That's ideal scenario, depends how easy it is to get a dedicated supply cable back to mains board.

As others have said, tis indeed a Crellin-Duplex half-decker. IIRC about a dozen were built in both front and underfloor-engined forms, first by Lincs Trailers and then the rights were taken over by Mann Egerton. One has survived (JVB 908) - I believe it's coming to the end of a very long-term restoration and should turn a few heads when it's done. If you're wondering how the interior works, there's a central corridor with steps up and down into compartments, each with two pairs of seats facing each other and overlapped so the backs of the upper seats are above the fronts of the lower ones. Not exactly step-free easy access, and slow boarding and alighting times killed the idea off.

It's all Datsuncog's fault.
 
Before he posted his fascinating essay in this thread I was oblivious to the KLF. Naturally I had to do some more research and now I've had Last Train to Trancentral stuck in my head for the past week. It is, as da yoof might say, a bangin choon, although my mum did ruin it slightly by mishearing the title as 'Last Train to Transsexual'   
 
The story of Wanda Dee's involvement with the KLF is a fascinating tale in its own right, ending with the ultimate irony of a group who built their career out of unauthorised sampling attempting to protect their intellectual property rights.

If you want to paint, you'll need to key the surface so scouring pads or similar, etching primer and top coat. Still, you're painting on top of chrome so if that starts to flake off your paint is coming with it.
 
Plasti-dip, as Shite Knight has found with his Fresian Sierra, only really sticks to itself - but on a luggage rack that's ideal. Give the whole thing one good coat and it doesn't matter if it sticks to the chrome or not, it'll form a luggage-rack shaped outer shell.
 
You can also look at "bed liner" or whatever which is a hardcore version of plasti-dip intended for pickup beds.

What's the best way to paint a chrome luggage rack for a scooter? I'd like to paint over the chrome with black. 
 
Must I strip it or can I use plast-coat or whatnot?

Yup, deffo a series VI Farina Morris Oxford. The yellow spotlights are aftermarket, but rather fetching. And a Sunbeam Rapier.

I always drive a few miles to get the oil nice and warm.
 
Only thing I’d add is that, depending on oil filter orientation, I always pour as much oil into the new filter as I can before screwing it into place. Saves wear in the first few seconds on the first post change start up.

dont forget to take the old filter off whilst it is still hot, wear gloves as it will be hot. let it all drain whilst having a brew then roll up sleeve and retrieve sump plug from bucket, use a new washer on sump plug and dont forget to run some fresh oil round the new filter's seal. dont overtighten filter or sump plug
 
once your finished cat litter is good for soaking up oil from the drive