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  1. Like
    jonathan_dyane reacted to Angrydicky in Dicky’s Disastrous Debris - it’s a runner! 1/9/21   
    I’ve been mega busy lately so progress on the fleet has slowed somewhat, but here’s an update on the Rover.
    Since purchasing it in November, it’s been pretty much* trouble free. I immediately pressed it into service and have managed to clock up 10,000 miles with relative ease. It had 98k when I got it and it’s now on 108k.
    * Well it’s never FTPd, the issues have really just been due to age and neglect.
    First thing I noticed was a severe wheel wobble when braking hard. It was pretty horrible and although the car had recent rear calipers, pads and discs, the front pads had also been changed but the discs had been left. That’s because it’s a big job to change them on these. I did look into doing it at the time and thought it looked a total ballache, the discs on these are held on with four bolts at the rear and they are completely inaccessible without dismantling most of the front suspension.
    I bought genuine Rover parts on eBay for not very much ££, and gave them and the car to my excellent local garage. Not the cheapest, but they did the job swiftly and carefully, despite having to contend with many rusted bolts etc, and the job taking most of the day.
    I then had a long period where nothing much happened. I had the remote key fob repaired as that didn’t work, and then just used it. All the time looking out for a 600 breaking in the same colour (White Gold Metallic) that I could get a half decent bonnet and bootlid from. The paint on them was FUCKED, the roof was no better. I think someone had used a Brillo pad to remove the peeled lacquer, shame really as it’s a straight original car.
    I noticed the power steering oil cooler pipes were in poor condition when I got the car. They are mild steel, and run along the bottom of the radiator support panel, with predictable results. I remember looking at 600s in scrapyards 10 years ago and the pipes were all rotten then. They basically loop around and go back to the pump, with a couple of short lengths of flexi hose which connect the oil cooler pipes to the rest of the system. It does seem a bit over-engineered to me, and I did wonder if you could just bypass the pipes with longer piece of rubber hose. But Honda deemed it necessary, and I like my cars to be as original as possible.
    On one of my regular checks under the bonnet I noticed the pipes were damp in the middle, a closer inspection revealed a drip forming on the bottom of the pipe. Although it didn’t appear to be leaking very quickly,  I seem to remember dollywobber lost his PAS due to the rotten pipes on his one, so I started looking for a set. There was someone on eBay with some secondhand ones for £50. Seemed very steep. As a temporary measure, I wrapped some tape around it, but it didn’t really work.

    I was browsing the Rover 600 group on Facebook when I saw this post from Rover enthusiast/breaker Jared Whiting, showing a White Gold 620 he’d just purchased.

    The passenger wing was clearly dented like mine was, but I excitedly messaged him to ask if he was breaking it and if so, what were the bonnet and boot like. He confirmed he was, and sent me some pictures which showed they looked ok. Few small scratches and stone chips, but nothing much. He gave me a good price for the bits, the only problem was today was Thursday, he already had it booked for car take back on Monday so I needed to get there sharpish. Where was he again? Market Drayton, other side of the country. Oh well, it’s a day out!
    Arrived about 12 after getting hopelessly lost and failing to find his yard. The 620 had 170k miles on it and was very rough. It was filthy inside and out and was still full of the deceased previous owner’s possessions. I didn’t feel guilty about stripping it for mine, it had been sat for a few years too. It still started and ran ok with a battery, good old Honda engines.

    That’s me while the job was going reasonably well!
    I started with the bootlid, which I thought would be a battle. I was right, getting the actual bootlid fitted wasn’t too bad but threading the loom through was tricky and swapping over the lock and connecting up it and the internal boot release was a massive ball ache. Which culminated in me shutting the boot to test it latched, which it did. However, I had failed to fit the internal release cable correctly, meaning the boot remained resolutely shut and I’d thrown the keys down in the boot while swearing at the mechanism! 
    The back seats do fold forwards but you have to pull straps inside the boot to release them, meaning that was a non starter. Fortunately, the lock was worn enough that wiggling the donor car’s key in there popped the bootlid open!
    Eventually got that all working properly, so then swapped the bonnet. That was easy enough, four bolts and the washer pipe.
    I wanted to take the electric Ariel, as the one on my Rover is partially seized, but I couldn’t shift it, so I had to leave that along with the nice GSi spec door cards that I simply didn’t have time to remove. I did, however, manage to save a set of genuine mats in grey, which are quite rare. The drivers one has lost some of its colouring but the others have cleaned up really well. They fit much better than the old universal mats do and look much better.
    Another bonus to this trip was that unexpectedly, the pas pipes on this Rover looked in remarkably good condition, with most of the paint remaining. Best secondhand ones I’ve seen, not sure why as the rest of the car was rough and it was quite high mileage. Anyway, Jared cut through the pipes higher up with his power saw so I could salvage the clips, which were totally seized.

    With its ‘new’ panels the Rover looked much better. The roof still looks shit but I haven’t got much choice with that apart from to have it resprayed.

    Then it was time to tackle the pas pipes. I blasted and painted them, and they came out really nicely. Managed to free the donor hose clips with heat and copper greased them to prevent them seizing in the future. 
    Actually fitting them was a right old war, I had to use a dremel to cut through the old clips them wrestle the pipes out, they were obviously fitted before the engine at the factory and not really designed to be replaced! I took the bumper off and the headlight out but it didn’t really help that much, in fact taking the undertray off was probably the best thing I did.

    Eventually got it all back together and bled up successfully. No leaks either, and the pas fluid hasn’t moved from the full mark since, which I’m very pleased about.
    A service was long overdue, so I carried that out using Castrol GTX as requested by the tag on the dipstick! That was fairly straightforward. I did notice the front tyres which were advised at the mot now needed replacing. They were worn on the inside edge. 
    As the car had matching Goodyear’s all round, I had two new Goodyear’s fitted on the front to keep them matching. Also had the tracking done. Car felt much better, no longer wandering to the left.
    Over the last few weeks I’ve noticed the occasional crunch when changing gear. I thought it was me not pushing the clutch down properly, but then the gears started getting very sticky and reluctant to engage. I checked the clutch fluid reservoir, which was empty apart from a load of black sludge at the bottom. Oh dear. It was ok when I last checked it but that was a few months ago. I did think the fluid looked dirty, but I didn’t want to go looking for trouble!
    The question was, where had it leaked out from? The slave cylinder looked dry, but a quick look up at the top of the clutch pedal revealed a telltale line of brake fluid running down the bulkhead from the master. 
    After a battle (I hate ‘standing upside down in the footwell’ jobs on cars) I managed to remove the old master cylinder. It’s a 5/8” Nisin centre valve type unit, this particular one also used in the comtemporary Honda Accord, which the Rover 600 is of course. It’s a very typical 80s/90s Japanese clutch master cylinder. New pattern ones are available on eBay, but they’re about £90 so I thought it was worth seeing if the old one could be salvaged.

    I didn’t take a picture of the inside of the cylinder, but it was full of rust and old black brake fluid. The piston put up a fight to remove it from the bore, the old seals were obviously toast with no flare left, and the valve stem was seized into the back of the piston (done a few of these, never seen one that bad on a working car). I’m convinced the clutch fluid had never been changed.
    The piston was quite badly pitted and corroded, but it was fine with a new seal kit fitted. Piston cleaned and new seals fitted in this photo.
    Surprisingly, the bore was in good condition and just needed a light clean.

    I then fitted it back in the car, which was a shit job and my elbow is still hurting after I trapped my arm behind the pedals while trying to tighten the master back onto the bulkhead. Hopefully I never have to touch it again!

    I managed to bleed it up ok, and it feels much nicer than it did before, a lot smoother with the occasional snatch when moving off in first gear now gone. Inevitably, the slave will need doing at some point but it’s not currently leaking, and that’s nice and easy to get to on this car. So not too worried about that.
    Lastly I made it to one of Trigger’s Shotley meets last week for the first time this year. There was someone on the gate photographing all the cars and this one also got its picture taken.  Looks ok but I must get that roof sorted. Good event, got to catch up with Trigger, Wuvvum and Cortinaboy. Roll on the next one!

  2. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from twosmoke300 in Help save my LDV - anyone from Scotland willing for a weldathon? (Money of course available)   
    I hate to say it but it would be considerable  cheaper to buy a new truck that wasn’t rotten than it would cost to fix this properly.
    The danger is you pay £££ to get it repaired but they just plate over the rust and it doesn’t last. Or the chassis snaps at an inconvenient moment and VOSA tear you a new arsehole.
  3. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from BorniteIdentity in Help save my LDV - anyone from Scotland willing for a weldathon? (Money of course available)   
    I hate to say it but it would be considerable  cheaper to buy a new truck that wasn’t rotten than it would cost to fix this properly.
    The danger is you pay £££ to get it repaired but they just plate over the rust and it doesn’t last. Or the chassis snaps at an inconvenient moment and VOSA tear you a new arsehole.
  4. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from St.Jude in Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Scrapped 20th August 2021 // New Video For It   
    Patch it up and get it back on the road and use it for a bit.
    Your welding has improved immeasurably as you have progressed, it’s a worthwhile exercise for that alone.
  5. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from Shite Ron in XM Fettling - Whatcha waiting for?!   
    If you cut across the threads like this when you clamp the bolt in the vice it will grip it on the threads so it can’t just turn as you hammer it

  6. Thanks
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from wesacosa in XM Fettling - Whatcha waiting for?!   
    If you cut across the threads like this when you clamp the bolt in the vice it will grip it on the threads so it can’t just turn as you hammer it

  7. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from wesacosa in XM Fettling - Whatcha waiting for?!   
    Fabulous! The bent bolt I would choose two suitable nuts then slit them with a hacksaw as if you were making a thread chaser then spin them on and use them to clamp the bolt in a vice and hammer it straight 
  8. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from wesacosa in XM Fettling - Whatcha waiting for?!   
    Man it’s a shame you’re not closer! Have you got any stilsons? Well worth picking some up if not, they’re 100% better than mole grips at this sort of shit
  9. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from wesacosa in XM Fettling - Whatcha waiting for?!   
    They are terrible to work on but wonderful to drive.
     I think I once had the same problem you’re having and my solution was to MIG an oversize nut onto the stud then attack it with stilsons.
  10. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from HMC in The new news 24 thread   
    The head gasket has gone on my wife’s X-Trail. I have started dismantling it. Today my shitty day at work has been complimented by the head gasket going on my Saab leaving no operational cars.
    Naturally I rectified this in the time honoured Autoshite manner by buying another shit car, a Saab convertible with a roof that doesn’t open, ideal for the summer.
    TLDR: who was it who converted a Saab with a busted roof to manual operation?

  11. Thanks
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from RichardK in Masha - ЗАЗ Таврiя (ZAZ Tavria) caramac dreams   
    Good result! Also looking at https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/676700/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-19th-edition.pdf my reading is that because the vehicle is not listed in the document annex and was first used before 1st August 1995 it is exempt from the CAT test.
  12. Haha
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from Sheefag in Absolute horse shit™ The official thread of Railton Heavy Industries Limited and it's subsidiaries.   
    It may be the one Kofi Annan used for showjumping 
  13. Haha
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from Heidel_Kakao in Absolute horse shit™ The official thread of Railton Heavy Industries Limited and it's subsidiaries.   
    It may be the one Kofi Annan used for showjumping 
  14. Haha
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from sdkrc in Absolute horse shit™ The official thread of Railton Heavy Industries Limited and it's subsidiaries.   
    It may be the one Kofi Annan used for showjumping 
  15. Haha
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from chadders in Absolute horse shit™ The official thread of Railton Heavy Industries Limited and it's subsidiaries.   
    It may be the one Kofi Annan used for showjumping 
  16. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from vulgalour in 1951 Lanchester LD10   
    I confess that looks loads better than I thought it would 
  17. Like
    jonathan_dyane reacted to vulgalour in 1951 Lanchester LD10   
    How to do the carpet in the Lanchester then.  The video above does illustrate this a bit better than I can do with photos and words so if you haven't, please do give that a watch for a bit more clarity on the process.  This needn't be an expensive endeavour and indeed, this carpet has cost the sum total of £0 since I already had all of the materials required in house.
    Ingredients are a pack of cheap printer paper, a pen, a good pair of shears (for cutting the carpet), a good pair of scissors (for cutting the paper), some sellotape, and a spare carpet set from the Princess.  The carpet set I'm using here is temporary, eventually it will be replaced with proper brown wool, for now it's what's to hand and the bright orange doesn't actually look as bad in situ as you might expect.

    If you already have a carpet in the car you're doing this job on, it's a bit easier, since then you have a template of sorts.  Unfortunately for us, there is no carpet in this car and it didn't come to us with one.  We've also been unable to find an off-the-shelf kit of any sort to hint at what shapes are required, so it's been a case of relying on photographs of other cars and clues this car has given us from what is present.
    Luckily, the floor of the Lanchester is almost completely flat with the exception of the tunnel down the middle, and the fixings for the front seats.  That means you can lay down the printer paper very easily to patchwork a pattern.  It's mostly a case of lining up an edge of paper with the edge of a bit of floor, and then using a fingernail and/or pen to mark the edges before using the scissors to trim.  Offer up the paper a few times and trim as necessary until each piece is as you want it.  Then tape your next piece of paper down to the first and so on until the whole floor is covered.

    The floor of the Lanchester isn't actually symmetrical.  While the outer edges are mirrored, the front portion of the tunnel isn't, and the rails the seats sit on are also in different locations on each side, something that isn't as obvious when the carpet isn't present.  That meant that a different template would be required for each side.
    To get around this you can either make two whole templates, or if you're channeling your inner Yorkshireman as I was, cut out the carpet for one side before flipping your paper template and chopping and patching it as required to make it the correct shape for the other side.  This means you use a few sheets less paper, a bit less ink, a bit less sellotape and quite a bit less time.
    For the driver's side, I disconnected the balljoint from the accelerator pedal so that I could put the carpet over the pedal rather than unbolting the pedal itself.  It doesn't make sense to bolt the pedal down over the carpet in this instance, far better to cut a hole in the carpet for the pedal.

    When you're repurposing existing materials some compromise is required.  The Princess carpet isn't moulded, one of the benefits of a front wheel drive car with a very flat floor, but does have a few cut-outs for various fixings so it was a case of figuring out where best the paper template fitted the carpet.  It turned out that it was best to make four separate rugs for the Lanchester, choosing to join them at the crossmember that runs the width of the floors under the front seats.  The Princess carpet was long enough in each half that a small overlap was possible too which is better than trying to make the pieces butt up to one another neatly in this instance.  Because of how much wider and longer the Princess floor is than the Lanchester floor, there was actually quite a lot of material available and before too long, I had a complete carpet set created.

    It's worth noting that the paper template will fit slightly differently to the carpet, this is because of the thickness of the material.  So once you fit the carpet you'll likely have to go around the edges, particularly any radiused pieces, and just trim back until a nice fit is acquired.  Since the Princess carpet doesn't fray, there was no requirement to bind the edges and it will serve as a very good template for the nice carpet when we get to that point.

    The bit I got really lucky with was that the Princess' integral heel mat actually lined up close to perfect with the Lanchester's pedals, making the orange carpet look just a bit more proper than had it been plain.  Less so was the central tunnel, something I couldn't use from the centre of the Princess' main carpet.  Instead, I built a tunnel section from the two inner sill pieces of carpet which are more flexible, the profiles were similar enough that I could use some duct tape to hold the four pieces together and to the tunnel itself, and wide enough that the main floor carpet could be put over the top of the edges to keep them in place.  It's likely the proper carpet will be glued down in one piece instead.  We will probably leave the front section of the tunnel uncarpetted (and there wasn't a suitable piece of Princess carpet left to do this part due to the strange shape involved) since there are service points that could do with being accessed and, judging by the condition of the paint, it looks like there may never have actually been a carpet there originally.  We haven't yet seen a picture of an LD10 with the original carpet intact to tell us either way what's correct here, only cars with replacement carpets which may of course be non-standard.  So we're going with what feels and looks right for this particular car, like we have with other items.
    Anyway, here we are with the carpet fully fitted and looking a whole lot better than you might expect.  It also cuts down a lot of draughts from the door bottoms and generally makes the car sound, and by extension feel, a bit more refined and finished inside than it did.  When we come to doing the wiring under the dashboard this will likely be a lot more pleasant to lie on and much harder to lose the various fixings since there aren't all those little gaps around the floor boards accessible now.

    All in all, an okay job really.  Once the seats were refitted, you could barely see the carpet anyway so the colour difference really isn't that noticeable.  It's also worth noting for the front seats that the brackets that hold the locking pegs in place need the carpet trimming away from the whole of the square base of them otherwise the thickness of the carpet prevents the seat from locking into place as it can't sit down low enough in the sockets.

    We have what looks like a very short list of items to attend on the car now.  How short this list ends up being in practice is of course a different matter entirely:
    - Fit new wiring loom
    - Recondition and refit radiator
    - Acquire and fit new front engine mount
    - Refit water pump and fan belt
    - Adjust brakes
    - Fit new front and rear screen seals
    - Fit pedal draught excluder rubbers
    - Make and fit kick panels, and lower B pillar trim
    - Replace missing/all door furflex trim
    - Restore and fit Ekco radio
  18. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from marm in Marm's fleet report: LIVE attempting to put bike carb back together.   
    It could be that the water pump impeller slips when it gets proper hot. Worth replacing the water pump before you break down again.
    PS we were stuck for about 4 hours after the Saab burst a hose, I feel better about it reading your debacle 
  19. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from LightBulbFun in Ghostly Goings On - here we go again   
    I had a little sick in my mouth when I saw those wheels…
  20. Like
    jonathan_dyane reacted to PhilA in 1966 Plymouth Fury 3   
    Took the rest of the nonsense panels out. Rusty but better.

    I started knocking at the welds to clean them up.

    Quite a lot came away like this.

    I had a review of how the back end of the car is assembled. That seam is exterior, so I started taking out spot welds. Under that is the rear lower panel behind the bumper. 

    I'm going to cut along the top of that and join the new repair panel in there.

    In cross section, the rear of the trunk is like this. The red is the back panel below the boot lid, green the panel behind the bumper, yellow the boot floor.
    When it was made, the green panel was spot welded to the yellow, then the red was spot welded to the back lip of the yellow.
    I'm cutting the yellow at the purple arrow on top of the green panel, meaning I can let the repair in on a strong point.
    That needs to wait because I've run out of cutting discs again.
  21. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from Ghosty in The Jaywick Chevy   
    I read it as that it had been stolen and later recovered by the Police partly stripped
  22. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from Yoss in Specially Adapted Cars   
  23. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from Aston Martin in Specially Adapted Cars   
  24. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from chaseracer in Specially Adapted Cars   
    Aye, I think the most famous Tissier conversions were for the newspapers but they did a wide variety of conversations including flatbeds/car transporter configurations 
  25. Like
    jonathan_dyane got a reaction from chaseracer in Specially Adapted Cars   
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