jonathan_dyane

The glow plugs and warning light/resistor are wired in series, if the glow light is working (which it appears it now is) all of the glow plugs are operating/none are burnt out. The individual glow plugs are either broken or not broken, if they are working there is nothing to be gained to replacing them. What usually burns them out is operating them for too long to try to start a tired engine or one in the cold with a weak battery

Just leave the old glow plugs in, they don't wear out like spark plugs, they either have continuity and work or they are burnt out and don't and unlike modern systems this will break continuity of the circuit so if one is burnt out they all go down.

That's a bloody good result mind

It'll need a new condenser. It's always the condenser.

Sad times 😿 Just avoid automatic Citroen's. Oh wait...

Great result! I may have previously made the same error...

What a shit. Distributor timing 180 degrees out?

I don't know, depending on what the bottom end is like I wouldn't be surprised if you got 20000+ out of it

Only just found this thread, it is excellent, thank you

Looks like lots of fun, enjoy. Last time I went up the Eiffel Tower I noted large holes rusted through rather critical looking metalwork. I won't be going up again, knowing the French they will repair it by pop riveting alloy plate over the holes...

Looks nice but looks like trouble. A newer model that hasn't been festering for 20 years probably less problematic

Sounds sweet as fuck mind.

Such a handsome car from when GM Europe was on top of its game

From memory the alarm was fitted by Citroen UK and consists of a control unit it the centre console. You can remove and unplug the alarm then just plug the two vacant connectors together resulting in no annoying alarm

What I will say is that if you have the Silverline torque wrench I think you have it's usable range starts at 28Nm. I suspect therefore that it either didn't click or did so in a muted way so you missed it and this led to you exerting too much torque breaking the bolt. TLDR might have been better had you used a spanner...

Fuck. How brave are you feeling? It might not actually be that tight unless the threads had bottomed out, if there's not enough left to grip and turn you might be able to drill a hole in what remains of the old bolt then hammer in a spline bit to unscrew it. That said it looks like it's broken off at an angle which might make it hard/impossible to drill without it deflecting into the threads in which case you're really fucked.

Cheers Mat, I did think as much. Lots more fun ahead

Fair play getting the bastard out. I guess you're going to have to just carefully clean up the top end as best you can. I would definitely drop the sump too though to clean it out properly and to clean the strainer. Best of luck, you might get away with it yet!

Oh dear that isn't ideal. I'd suggest seriously considering getting it running reasonably well then getting rid of it via WBAC or similar. I don't feel optimistic about that engines long term prospects.

That deox gel is great stuff. What do you think about the black areas that remain in the pits? I'm going through the process on my Jowett roof and can't decide whether I should consider it done or to try to continue until it's all shiny