Jump to content

hauserplenty

Full Members
  • Posts

    882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hauserplenty

  1. Pontiac Chieftain threads are for WINNARZ. First a Renault, now a 50's car with a straight 8. PHWOAR! Add to that some badass test equipment...and winding your own coils with a drill motor... This thread is pure AUTOSHITE GOLD. Like a brick in the street I just tripped over. RESPECT. MOAR! ...Other nixe tube voltmeters may also be available... ...as for the Renault, I would, but it's so far away...
  2. Updated, and given 'The Full Quentin' while I was at it. [/aschangelog]
  3. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DGVeZ4XLo4Y
  4. I once worked for a used car lot that had a line on post-GM Daewoo parts. (In 2005.) It was to Daewoos what that guy in Pennsylvania is to Sterlings. Anyroad, top tip: when you change the timing belts, replace the water pump too. The next Daewoo lump you preserve may be your own. Nubira better car, if-n only y'could...
  5. Yeah, that's a foul anchor all right... Chevrolet make vans too, I reckon *cough*
  6. Barry Cade is correct, and I should add by clarification that this is in fact a way to load test the battery in situ, but the use of either a digital battery tester or a carbon pile load tester is a more direct means of accomplishing the same. Many roads, one destination. An open-circuit voltage test, which is simply connecting a multimeter to the battery without any other loads such as described above, is inaccurate, as it does not load the battery enough for the fault to become evident. A 12V battery has 6 cells at 2.1V each, for a total of 12.66 fully charged, but a multimeter is designed not to load circuits so does not provide voltage under load on its own, only voltage at rest. Which tells you something, I grant you, just not what you need to know in this case. You first need to rule out a duff battery, and the quickest way to do this is with a jump start, then by the most feasible method of load testing (in situ or external load tester.)
  7. There could be a defective cell in the battery. I recommend you load test it. The dash lights may not draw enough current to cause dimming and could thus be misleading. Do the lights dim when you turn the key? Also try removing, filing, then replacing each connector.
  8. Yeah, dude, we sure do: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g8t-Fkf7wYg I was just thinking of posting this, but I thought it not wert a lite. Or starting a new thread for. Ta, wack!
  9. Flounce, as in: moto-scat?? Updates to follow as fast* as my London Whale fingers can fly. *Sodding autocorrect
  10. I must admit, I've been wanting* a car with the engine in backwards for quite some time. I suppose you might know of...several. And as you seem like the right person to ask, "Why'd they do that??" Or is this just one of life's enduring mechanical mysteries?... Cracking chod. MOAR! *dreading.
  11. Cheers, AS, from the lower left-hand corner of the former* colonies. So, I've got this: With one of these: But I might soon have this: With one of these: WCPGW?
  12. Das Beste Oder Nicht! [/Mercedes Apologist] I've heard that the later C-class is not a patch on the earlier E-class, but the NVH is much reduced over the '90's-era cars. [/apples to oranges] I like the 1990's C-class a bit better, but that's ace even at twice the price. For the C-class, our only engine choices in California are a 2.8 or a 3.2 V6, one of the best engines in any car I've ever driven. I drive a '98 E320 wagon estate. Cheers, and happy motoring!
  13. Maybe it's just an air pocket trapped in there? Try bleeding the system by idling it for 10 minutes or so with the radiator cap off, and the heater on full. Then run it up to 3K and hold it there for 30 seconds...repeat this until the coolant rises and then settles back down. Top it off with Prestone's finest, and Bob's yer uncle.
  14. If you hear it only when the car hits a bump, I'd look at the suspension: Struts, bushings, etc. Usually a bearing noise varies with vehicle speed. I had to replace all four wheel bearings on my 1990 300TE. The rear two required a 20 ton press, the fronts were conventional but for the reassembly procedure, which specified a very precise measurement. If it turns out that you need to replace an entire control arm for the sake of a wheel bearing, I wouldn't be too surprised since M-B probably would rather not have wheels coming off their cars due to some grease monkey who didn't follow their instructions. They make more money; you spend more at the dealer service department--everyone* wins. * ...in the boardrooms...
  15. hauserplenty

    LED

    Make sure you get the polarity correct on the diode. You could also find a known good gauge cluster and substitute that.
  16. Check the ground straps too. Any loose/corroded contacts on the engine or frame can cause similar problems, though obviously replacing the battery is called for.
  17. Using coat hanger wire instead will likely prove more durable than a plastic zip-tie which is certain to break within six months. You may also try zip-tying first, then winding the wire around the hanger. Cheap insurance for when the zip-tie breaks.
  18. Flash-to-pass came in after 1986 because the accountants finally admitted it was a good idea. Standard now on all cars equipped with airbags and multifunction/combination switches.
  19. ...Yes, but we don't...really...talk about that on here. ...Oh, you must mean cars. I could dig on a 1975 Buick Century. Or a 1941 Buick LaSalle. Other than that, sorry to see you give up but ya do what ya gotta do.
×
×
  • Create New...