Jump to content

hauserplenty

Full Members
  • Content Count

    891
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About hauserplenty

  • Rank
    As we say in the American,

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Divided Federation on Trumpistan-shire
  • Interests
    Saying nothing.

Country

  • Country
    United States
  1. Pontiac Chieftain threads are for WINNARZ. First a Renault, now a 50's car with a straight 8. PHWOAR! Add to that some badass test equipment...and winding your own coils with a drill motor... This thread is pure AUTOSHITE GOLD. Like a brick in the street I just tripped over. RESPECT. MOAR! ...Other nixe tube voltmeters may also be available... ...as for the Renault, I would, but it's so far away...
  2. Updated, and given 'The Full Quentin' while I was at it. [/aschangelog]
  3. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DGVeZ4XLo4Y
  4. I once worked for a used car lot that had a line on post-GM Daewoo parts. (In 2005.) It was to Daewoos what that guy in Pennsylvania is to Sterlings. Anyroad, top tip: when you change the timing belts, replace the water pump too. The next Daewoo lump you preserve may be your own. Nubira better car, if-n only y'could...
  5. Yeah, that's a foul anchor all right... Chevrolet make vans too, I reckon *cough*
  6. Barry Cade is correct, and I should add by clarification that this is in fact a way to load test the battery in situ, but the use of either a digital battery tester or a carbon pile load tester is a more direct means of accomplishing the same. Many roads, one destination. An open-circuit voltage test, which is simply connecting a multimeter to the battery without any other loads such as described above, is inaccurate, as it does not load the battery enough for the fault to become evident. A 12V battery has 6 cells at 2.1V each, for a total of 12.66 fully charged, but a multimeter is designed not to load circuits so does not provide voltage under load on its own, only voltage at rest. Which tells you something, I grant you, just not what you need to know in this case. You first need to rule out a duff battery, and the quickest way to do this is with a jump start, then by the most feasible method of load testing (in situ or external load tester.)
  7. There could be a defective cell in the battery. I recommend you load test it. The dash lights may not draw enough current to cause dimming and could thus be misleading. Do the lights dim when you turn the key? Also try removing, filing, then replacing each connector.
  8. Yeah, dude, we sure do: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g8t-Fkf7wYg I was just thinking of posting this, but I thought it not wert a lite. Or starting a new thread for. Ta, wack!
  9. Flounce, as in: moto-scat?? Updates to follow as fast* as my London Whale fingers can fly. *Sodding autocorrect
  10. I must admit, I've been wanting* a car with the engine in backwards for quite some time. I suppose you might know of...several. And as you seem like the right person to ask, "Why'd they do that??" Or is this just one of life's enduring mechanical mysteries?... Cracking chod. MOAR! *dreading.
  11. hauserplenty

    Steak Bar

    Cheers, AS, from the lower left-hand corner of the former* colonies. So, I've got this: With one of these: But I might soon have this: With one of these: WCPGW?
  12. Das Beste Oder Nicht! [/Mercedes Apologist] I've heard that the later C-class is not a patch on the earlier E-class, but the NVH is much reduced over the '90's-era cars. [/apples to oranges] I like the 1990's C-class a bit better, but that's ace even at twice the price. For the C-class, our only engine choices in California are a 2.8 or a 3.2 V6, one of the best engines in any car I've ever driven. I drive a '98 E320 wagon estate. Cheers, and happy motoring!
×
×
  • Create New...