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forddeliveryboy

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Everything posted by forddeliveryboy

  1. I tried every tube of stuff like that, including the HyloBlue. Can't remember where to and how the new seal was slipping, but it was. Not often I just give in but I was due out, the old stayed there ever after.
  2. If you spend a weekend or two putting together a good system and have a supply of decent oil, it's no more hassle than supermarket oil. Lifting supermarket 20l cubies or drums high enough to pour into a funnel propped in the filler neck grows tiring and there's still the bother of disposing them. I just unhook the nozzle and delivery hose and insert into the car. Easier than a forecourt, it's on your premises and there's no queue in a building to empty your wallet.
  3. Just store the oil somewhere warm? Gravity is a lot cheaper than any other sort of filtering... You'll be telling me next you're heating the house with something pumped up from the North Sea and paying £££s for it. Tsk, Scottish spendthrifts!
  4. Remember, gravity is free and works better when oil is hot. I lagged my main dewatering barrel, which I take up to about 75C with an immersion heater. The filters (incl. two 0.5u ones) have lasted 9 years, so far. It's as quick to undo the 19mm banjo bolt and fill the filter up - and far less risky for the starter motor. I wouldn't have any worries about the pumps, they'll implode a metal fuel tank if its vents are blocked. If the oil's very gloopy, they tend to blow their delivery valve seals though - special tool and a bit of a fiddle. Watch out for too many revs in the first few miles unless you've fitted a fphe or keep the cabin heater controls at full (which warms the fuel).
  5. Yes. Btw, I found the new circular section O-ring seal impossible to make stay in the right place and work so reused the original flat one, which did. But was in a bit of a rush, I seem to remember.
  6. I doubt any of those asking questions expect the car to be anywhere near good in every safety and cost respect, but a simple quick answer would help them decide if it could be useful or not. Surely ten or twenty words fired off online for everyone to read which could save even an hour and a half is acceptable? And if the seller doesn't feel happy doing so, that's fine. It's just the sneering at people who dare ask questions which would be seen as perfectly ok if the car was all of £600 I find a bit sad. Like it's the money which matters most, and that below a certain level nobody has any right to enquire.
  7. Asking whether something old and PSA has a /—\ back axle and when the cambelt's due are perfectly reasonable questions to ask, no matter what the asking price. If they're both overdue then it makes a decision much easier. If you can't ask vital simple stuff like that on here it's a shame - where else is there where anyone would consider a £140 car as the next two years' transport? Clearly there's a line in the sand with this sort of thing, but Autoshite was once the most tolerant, broad-minded online community I knew. Criticising people for daring ask questions about a car because it's inexpensive is a form of sneering, I thought this place was all about making good use of what others throw away?
  8. Plugs are the one item which can suffer from running on veg (probably the higher temperatures, but it could be repeated two and three cycles from cold, so it helps if they're easy to access - VW TDis are dead easy, IDI engines can be a struggle. Best not to leave dud ones too long, as mentioned above poor starting and lumpy running from cold can lead to ring gumming. Bosch Duraterm are best, but watch out for fakes on ebay. By far the best approach if you run 90%+ veg through winter is to have a mains preheater - they're as little as £30 and less now, which at 10ppl is saved within 200 miles.
  9. Hot filtering means any molten fats pass straight through - inadvisable unless you're planning on heating the oil to the same temp in the car before passing through the filters. If you don't, fats which are solids at ambient will steadily clog up the tank strainer, lines and filter. Not dewatering or properly filtering the oil will lead to internal wear and corrosion of the injector pump and injectors - it's probably best you browse the vegoiling forums and search for 'hot pan test' and 'sock filters' at the very least. Used oil is full of small particles, tea towels will let most pass straight through. The smaller they are, the harder and sharper. If your car were some disposable VAG which was going to the crusher within the year then it'd hardly matter, having breakdowns and a bill for rebuilding or replacing a 405's IP would be daft given all the info is freely offered, especially when you're still spending hundreds/thousands on diesel. If you've no other option but to gravity filter then a tea towel is irrelevant anyway, just leave the oil in a warm place for at least 2 months and take off the top 20-90%, depending on how good the waste oil is. Whatever you pour into the car must be crystal clear.
  10. Can only report my own findings. The oil I use is dried thoroughly in the processor and polished through 0.5u filters, I've found supermarket oil variable in the hpt. Of course it doesn't spit and pop like wet oil, but there'll be a max limit which commercial suppliers try and surpass as little as possible - or it's lower profits. After all, throwing wet battered fish into hot oil isn't as demanding as passing it through a high pressure mechanical injector pump. I've not had one problem with pumps or injectors over many miles since 2007, and don't want one!
  11. Ach, don't get too carried away with Sir Christemas, there's New Year's Eve just a few days away. Keep warm and dry and watch out for those Frauleins with big jugs of beer. Good news the bike's going well, roll on the warm sunshine.
  12. I found that with no turbo and just enough power, the extra right foot flexing (petrol does thin very effectively, but knocks back the torque quite a bit) hit the mpgs badly and made driving annoying. If you're paying for new vegoil, then adding diesel is very possibly barely more expensive. From memory, when it was near or below freezing I'd add 1 to 1.5% petrol and about 10-15% diesel to the 124. Fuel is heated according to the cabin temp controls, so in the coldest weather keep them up at max and adjust cabin temp with the fan or cracking the window down a smidge.
  13. I like the stalks on the old V70s - they're well made if with unergonomic Volvo oddities which have long since gone, I'm thinking of the awkward slidey switches for things like rear wipers, the long-serving VAG approach of pressing a stalk away is so much better. Dipping main beans should be a single movement and occur as soon as a stalk is actuated, not once a return spring has come into play. Sounds a petty thing, but it isn't. Having said that, all column stalks make you feel challenged in the motor reaction department if sometime in the dimndistant a S1 CX was enjoyed - driving almost anything modern at speed on awkward roads requires so much body movement.
  14. Retromobile is ace, just what's needed at that time of year. Don't be stingy, though - have a week in the NW Highlands in May, it's more satisfying than much of Euroland.
  15. I once saw a car with a driveway paint job (open air), unbelievably good to the extent I'd have said it was a pro in a booth - but it was in celly.
  16. It works well, but using it last night up a long incline which rises to 1in4 in places, on recently gritted frozen rain would have ended in another stuck vehicle. Not often that spinning your wheels seemingly mindlessly works, but it did yesterday afternoon. Plan B was to reverse back down to the hairpin, remove heavy loads from the boot and hang them over the front of the car.
  17. Amazing stuff and weighs nearly nothing. I've used it to roll out under/around sleeping bags when snow camping and for long descents (especially from cold).
  18. So long as it's working it'll be ten times more capable than most moderns, providing the tyres have some tread and aren't as hard as the vinyl roof. Edit - just caught up with your thread and surely new Uniroyals will see off plenty of modern RangeRovers, let alone all the other vehicles with more driven wheels than necessary spinning themselves down into ruts. Aeons ago a Saab 900 dragged itself up the steepest, hairpinned back road in deep snow wearing (new) summer tyres. No anti roll bars, engine over the driving wheels, supple springing and gentle power. Even further back there was a crusty Toledo on Pneumants which dodged a back-sliding 4x4xfar up a long, steep snowy hill.
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